It’s a common misconception that crafters make to think that crochet is only about granny squares and anything that vaguely resembles a granny square. That’s not true. There is so much more to crochet than granny squares but it is a good place to start and I will tell you why in this post.
What else can I crochet?
First, we should talk about what other options there are for crocheters who don’t want to have a go at crochet squares. There are many things you can crochet without having to make anything square. Using any of the four basic crochet stitches, you can create garments, bags, blankets, toys, home decor and much much more.
All crochet stitch patterns are made of one of the following stitches:
Single crochet (UK treble)
Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Double crochet (UK treble)
Every stitch following these stitches is just a variant or a ‘build’ on the basics. To make a triple stitch (UK triple treble) you make a double crochet twice. To make a shell or fan stitch, you need to make 5 double crochet stitches into the same chain. To make a v stitch, you make two double crochet stitches into the same chain, with one chain separating them to create the v shape.
If you do want to start with the granny square, that’s fantastic! You can learn a few things from this clever shape:
You can learn how to build in rounds.
Learn to change colours.
Learn to make corner spaces.
Learn how a chain space works.
Keep them small or make something massive!
As you can see, you can learn a lot from that humble square. There’s something pretty and comforting about a granny square throw. This one is available as a free pattern here.
The humble granny square is a great place to start and here are some further posts to help you get going:
Sirdar Stories: Poetic Pastels Our Metro Square Top puts the fashionable crochet granny square front and centre. If you haven’t tried a granny square to wear yet, this is an easy crochet pattern to get you started. As well as your granny square, you’ll crochet panels of double crochet and use gradual shaping to create the flattering deep u-shaped neckline, tapered shoulders and neat fit that will make this top a summer staple. Great for beginners!
Crochet some pretty pastel granny squares, add a flattering open neckline and wide airy sleeves to make your summer essential Urban Hues Cardigan. Perfect pattern for intermediate. Use panels of granny stripes to get a neater fit and give your new favourite crop cardigan a crisp finish with a double crochet trim.
This article highlights the crochet cat blanket kit by Dreamy Wool. Crochet kits for baby gifts have everything you need for that special, handmade gift.
Whether you are more of an avid amigurumi creator or a blanket connoisseur, these crochet cat kits combine both of those things to give you a toy that unravels to become a blanket!
This article contains affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you.
This cat crochet kit is adorable, and it’s a popular hit with those looing for a simple crochet gift they can make themselves. Take the guesswork out of it with a Dreamy Wool crochet cat blanket kit.
Left to right: Silver sprinkles/stripes, peppercorn and marmalade/stripes.
This adorable crochet cat also comes in five colour variations:
Marmalade
Marmalade/Stripes
Silver Sprinkles/Stripes
Peppercorn
Strawberry ice cream
Cat kit shown in Strawberry Ice Cream
The patterns for these kits are intermediate level. They are designed by crochet designer Aneta Wawro (Crochet Arcade) and include all the materials to make the cat and blanket that you choose.
You can also get their crochet starter kit which is a crochet hook, stitch markers and a darning needle!
These kits make excellent gifts as a kit, or for you to make and then give to someone who loves cats. If you want to learn more about Dreamy Wool’s cuddle soft chunky yarn, you can see it here.
Overall, these adorable crochet cat blanket kits make excellent gifts for a baby shower, christening or if choosing the larger blanket…your sofa!
Here’s a round up of the best granny square yarn and granny square kits out there right now from UK retailers. These retailers do also provide international delivery, so do have a look if you’re reading this from somewhere else in the world!
I’m rounding up some of my favourite yarns for granny squares as well as blankets.
This article contains affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase from the links I have provided, I do earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
First up: Granny square yarn? Is that a thing?
All yarn can be granny square yarn, it’s true. However, there is yarn out there more specifically tailored to your crochet needs.
Taken quite literally, there is now a range of self-patterning yarns out there that can make the granny square colour changes so you don’t have to. Let’s have a look at them:
Here is a yarn that was designed just for granny squares. It is an interesting concept, but tension-allowing, you can get some granny squares out of this.
This image perfectly illustrates why this yarn is worth a punt. You don’t have the messy ends. However, you would have to match the tension exactly to get the same accurate colour change!
This yarn is available in a range of colours. This one is called Hyper Violet. It comes in a range of colours meaning no matter your preferred shades, there will be a granny square palette for you.
Key things about this granny square yarn:
It comes in a 250g ball.
It is a worsted weight/aran weight yarn, so will make a chunky granny square.
It’s made by Red Heart Yarns, who are a US brand.
This particular one that I’ve shared comes as a pack of 3, and it’s quite pricey compared to other yarns on the market.
Hanna’s verdict: don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it, but I like the old fashioned method of joining new colours.
You can get this in just about every colour there is in the world. It’s a long time favourite for crochet as well as knitting. It’s an affordable, reliable yarn and it’s another 100% acrylic yarn. You may have to sew in or join the ends if you change colours, but you get so much more granny square out of each 100g ball.
Woolbox currently have Stylecraft Special DK in every colour under the sun and as well as this yarn, they also have several discounts, including ones you can claim with loyalty points.
Key things about this yarn:
Fibre Content
100% Acrylic
Washing Instructions
40 Wash
Brand
Stylecraft
Size
4mm Needles
Metres Per Ball
295m
Tension
22 stitches x 30 rows to 10cm square
Ball Weight
100g
Yarn Weight
Double Knit
Hanna’s verdict: The sky is the limit with this colour palette. I love it.
If you like your granny squares to work up quicker, you can also get Stylecraft Special in Aran. The colour palette for their aran range isn’t as vast as the DK range, but you can get every colour (just not a range of shades for each colour!)
This is a perfect granny square yarn for fuller-bodied blankets and throws. I’ve recommended acrylic here because of its machine washable qualities. If you were making a baby blanket for example, you can easily bung this in the machine and not end up shrinking it. It is therefore excellent for blankets that will end up in the hands of exhausted parents! It’s also excellent for picnic blankets and pet throws.
Key things about this yarn:
Fibre Content
100% Acrylic
Washing Instructions
Machine Wash 30, Cool Tumble Dry
Brand
Stylecraft
Metres Per Ball
196m
Tension
18 st x 24 rows
Hook/Needle size
5mm
Hanna’s verdict: This yarn is just as soft and durable as its DK cousin. I love that it’s a little bit thicker, helping me make more granny squares in front of the telly!
This is Lovecrafts’ own brand yarn and it is a worthy rival to Stylecraft special for how durable, washable and soft it is. It is also a 100% premium acrylic yarn and makes vibrant, solid granny squares for throws, cushions and more.
See below for blanket patterns featuring Paintbox Simply yarns. This is an excellent granny square yarn in an equally vibrant palette and huge range of colours.
You can get the pattern and yarn for this blanket in the warm Passion Rouge or the cool Romance Blue. This kit contains absolutely all the yarn you’d need for this granny square blanket.
Crochet kit for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky Casa Kahlo Blanket. Bursting with folk-inspired granny patterns, Katie Jones’ Casa Kahlo Blanket is a rainbow of colour encased in blues. Granny octagons and hexagons full of bobbles, hearts, clusters and overlay flowers are brought together with coloured seaming and this heavenly blanket of colour is the perfect antidote to low spirits and chilly afternoons.
I realise that this is not technically a granny square throw but if you know how to make a granny square, you can crochet this amazing blanket!
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
In this post I’m going to show you how I make perfectly round, full pom poms for hats and other craft projects. Pom poms can be notorious for falling apart or falling off after a few wears but I’m going to show you how I make them tightly, securely and in a way that ensures they’re full and easy to attach.
I’ll also show you the tools I recommend for making your own pom poms with a standard pom pom maker or a novelty style pom pom maker.
First, let’s talk about what you will need and why.
Do I need a good pom pom maker?
This is entirely subjective as I believe the technique is more important than the kit you use but saying that, using a great pom pom maker will help. I’m using a Knitpro pom pom maker for this tutorial. You can use two pieces of card if you would prefer but this method I have used here is the best way for me. I’ve made several pom poms over the years and I keep coming back to the pom pom maker because:
1. It’s accessible.
2. I don’t need to find new cardboard each time I want a pom pom.
3. It’s ready to use every time you need it.
Here’s my favourite pom pom maker, the Knitpro (known as knitters pride in the US) maker. Click here to shop for the pom pom makers that I used.
Pom poms are always shown as very fluffy, poofy additions to handmade hats. I’m going to show you how to make the best pom pom you can.
Here’s what you actually need to make a great pom pom:
1. A pom pom maker. You can use any maker (I’ve recommended some in this guide). Just choose something that you find easy to use.
2. Sharp, sharp scissors. The best scissors for this job are fabric scissors. I used Fiskars scissors which can be found here.
3. A darning needle.
4. At least 25g of good quality yarn.
Why is yarn important?
How the yarn has been plied (how many strands were twisted to make the yarn) will matter when it comes to making pom poms. For example, a 2ply yarn (as in, plied twice, not 2ply weight) will tend to be looser with a roving texture. This doesn’t make for good pom pom yarn as it can come apart when you are pulling tightly and wrapping it around the pom pom maker.
The higher the ply, the stronger the yarn.
For this tutorial I am using 50g of 4ply yarn. It’s a merino yarn with 25% nylon and it is known as a good all rounder and is plied to ensure that it does not easily break when it meets some tension.
You need really strong yarn as you want something that can be pulled tightly without breaking. The fabric scissors will handle them when you come to cut your pom pom.
How to make a pom pom, step by step.
Step 1:
Set up and open up your maker. You should have received instructions for this in your package.
Step 2:
Using your thumb to hold the tail end of the yarn in place, start winding back and forth until the arm is covered. It can take a while, but be patient. It’ll be worth it!
Step 3:
Wind the yarn until the hard edges of the maker are softened. At least 1mm of yarn thickness required. You shouldn’t be able to feel the edges of the maker when you press it between your thumb and forefinger.
Step 4:
Open up the other pair of arms and start wrapping yarn around them.
Step 5: Cover the second pair of arms in the same way.
Step 6:
When you’re happy with the thickness of the yarn wrap, it’s time to cut.
Step 7:
Take your fabric scissors and cut, making sure that your scissors are placed in the groove of the maker. Cut all edges, making sure there are no uncut threads.
Step 8:
Cut about 30cm (12in) of yarn. Tie it around the pom pom. Come around and tie the other side too and then finish with another tie and a knot. Make sure that you have tied the pom pom as tightly as you can.
Step 9:
Release the pom pom and trim to size. Your pom pom should feel full, tightly secured and heavy.
If you want to know how to securely attach your pom pom to a hat, you can see the full video tutorial here:
Other makers to try in order to make great pom poms:
These pom pom makers are similar to the classic style that we make out of card and cardboard, but as they’re wood, they last longer! You get 12 pieces in the set so it’s great value for a lot of different pom pom sizes. What I also like about this pom pom maker set is how the pieces are flat, meaning they store flat!
This particular set is from woojfcang. These styles of maker have actually been praised for their ease of use for arthritic hands. There are no tricky parts to put together, making this pom pom maker one of the most accessible on the market.
What else I like about this style of maker is that it is a flat shape that can store really well in your craft bag. No pieces will come off or go missing, either. I have children, so I’ve lost half of my pom pom maker a few times!
This particular tool doubles as a tassel maker. It’s perfect for a range of crafts.
I not doubt for a second that with some trimming of a regular pom pom, you could shape your own hearts but having done that myself, it’s messy and if you’re not well practised in topiary or hairdressing, you can mess it up! I have a heart pom pom maker.
Bear with me on this: when you first cut and release the yarn from this pom pom maker, it will just look like a regular pom pom at first. You will see though that it is slightly uneven. You then trim it to shape without having to guess, because it comes with instructions!
Can you knit flat with circular needles? Yes! You absolutely can.
I’ve seen this question come up several times in knitting groups. Even advanced knitters will ask, ‘can you knit flat on circular needles?’ and the answer is yes. In this blog post I’ll talk you through the pros and cons of circular needles, and how you can use them to knit anything! I will also guide you through the essential kit you need for knitting with circular needles.
This article contains some affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase via the links provided, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
You can knit flat with circular needles, and here are a list of benefits you get from doing that:
Eases the weight on your wrists and arms.
Unless you’re an armpit knitter, you’ll probably start feeling the weight of your flat needles after a couple of hours of knitting. You can always take a break, but if you want to get back into it, using circulars can help take the pressure off. As your piece gets bigger, it can start putting pressure on your hands and wrists. Sliding the stitches onto circulars is a more efficient, lighter way to knit larger pieces.
You can knit larger things
If you have a long cord on your circular needles, you can knit anything! Knit men’s XXL sweaters; knit baby blankets right up to king size throws with circular needles. Little coats and cardigans also benefit from being knit on circulars, as you can hold the entire thing on the cord while you attach the sleeves or knit the collar. Look out for cardigans and coats that are ‘top down’ or ‘bottom up’ in their construction, and have fun knitting the whole thing on one cord without the need of several stitch holders.
Use the circular needles as stitch holders.
If you need a rest from the project you’re working on, you might find leaving it on circular needles more handy than finding a huge stitch holder. If you are using circular needles that have removable cords, it’s even easier! Unclip or unscrew the needles you’re using and knit something else with them. Your project will be safe on the cord.
Make your project more portable.
Knitting with straight needles is fine when you’re on a sofa at home, but if you’re trying to knit on public transport or on a park bench, you might benefit from knitting flat with circular needles. If you’re an English knitter like me, you’ll find that your arm action can cause your needles to catch everything around you! There’s nothing more tragic than seeing your stitches slide off the end because you got caught in a curtain and dropped the needle. I can’t guarantee that this won’t happen with circular needles, but it presents a much slimmer possibility of slip-offs.
Common misconceptions about knitting flat with circular needles.
“You can’t use circulars because you have to keep flipping your work.” No, no you don’t. You finish your row and start working back on the other needle, just like with straight knitting pins. There is no flipping involved unless you’re knitting a pancake.
“Circular needles aren’t suitable for beginner knitters.” Again, this is nonsense. It’s like with exercise: do something you enjoy and you’ll do it often. The same goes for knitting. If you learn to knit on circular needles, that’s fine. It’s perfectly doable. Circular needle tips come in every size out there, so I don’t see why a beginner couldn’t do it. Some knitters with mobility issues might actually find starting with some light aluminium circulars quite comfortable! The weight is taken out of it, and the cord can rest on your lap or on a cushion.
“Circular needles are only good for knitting in the round.” No, they’re handy for every project. Every project!
Drawbacks of knitting flat with circulars
There are only some, but you should still watch out for them:
They’re incredibly light so you could have trouble casting on.
Keep hold of them and keep an eye on them. Perhaps lay the needles on your lap or on a hard surface to make sure they don’t fall onto the floor. The casting on is the trickiest part, I find, as they’re not hard and heavy like straight needles.
Sliding on to the cable.
Stitches will slide on to the cable and this is where you need to manage your tension. If you’re casting on too tightly, those stitches won’t slide back up the needle so that you can knit with them! try and keep the stitches even and wide enough to fit onto the needles.
Dropping stitches.
As I said before, no one can guarantee that you won’t drop stitches.
Dropping stitches is sometimes really hard to avoid. I actually tend to drop a lot of stitches on straight needles as I seem to knock into them a lot or get them caught in my sleeve.
With circulars, you could drop the stitches simply because the circular cord has been weighed down too much by your work. This will then pull the needle downwards and out of the stitches! Keep an eye on it and work with your lap or a hard surface when you are starting out.
You will also drop stitches if you’re using a really smooth material to knit with. Aluminium can be very sleek, so just remember to be careful when you put you knitting down. You can also use needle stoppers or a connector, like the one that comes with addi click needles.
What to consider when choosing circular needles:
What is the project? This is an important question to ask as if it is socks, you’ll want needles that are lightweight and easy to port around.
What material do you like to use?
Bamboo and driftwood are popular for their lightness and warmth, but they’re prone to snapping if you’re not careful! For something small like a sock, you may want to try a metal needle as they can go really thin without risking breakage.
How pointy do they need to be?
If you’re knitting lace, you will want a sharper, more accurate tip on your needles.
What length do they need to be?
If you’re using magic loop for a hat, socks or gloves, you need to consider how long your cord is. Likewise, you need to consider how long the cord is if you’re wanting to simply fit the whole thing on it! Circular needles come in a range of cord lengths from around 40cm to over 150cm. The sky really is the limit.
I have always loved my addi click set. They’re just basic aluminium needle tips with a plastic cord, and they click into place! You just click and go. I think as with all interchangeable needles, they come with a risk of disconnecting mid-project. In the 12 years I’ve had these, I think they’ve only come off once, and I’m not even 100% sure that it wasn’t my fault!
Addi are a perfect introductory brand for knitters. I also use Addi lace and Addi turbo for my projects. I started out with an Addi Click set, and these days you can get them in all the material types. There is a set for every budget. My cords are a little bit kinked these days (they’re over 10 years old!) but if you can’t straighten them with hot water, you can find replacement cords easily in any of the main knitting supplies stores. What knitter won’t need a few extra cords?
Chiaogoo interchangeble needles. These were a birthday present a few years ago, and I love them. They’re sharp, strong steel and although they can sometimes unscrew themselves mid-project, this rarely happens! You get a little pin that helps you secure them nice and tight. The cords don’t kink as easily as my addi needles or knitpro needles. They have a coil inside that keeps them straight. Really handy to have. You also get a nice little ruler for gauge, as well as stitch markers, life saving cord stoppers and T pins.
Knitpro Zing circular needles: These are so, so handy. Out of the needle types that I have, I think the Knitpro cords are the trickiest to keep straight. They can kink and knot in my knitting bag. Also, because the metal needles have a colour coating on them, they don’t help the stitches glide as easily. They have a good sharpness to the tips, so that’s great if you’re using them for a range of projects.
They come in a different colour for each size, so you really can collect them all. You can also get them in an interchangeable set:
