Here’s a quick run down of how and why you would block a knit or crochet hat.
Why block a hat?
To achieve desired fit e.g slouch or beret.
To open out any lace detail.
To relax the yarn.
To straighten any ruched stitches.
To even out the overall balance of the stitches.
To fix any mistakes with tension.
What is blocking?
Blocking is washing and shaping your knit or crochet pieces to the desired shape or size. Taking the time to block your natural fibres especially enables easier seaming as you can match the edges up clearly. It also helps with drape or fit of a garment. If you have used a cable stitch or a moss stitch in a natural or really light yarn, blocking can even it out so that you can see the full detail.
Why block a hat? You have a head!
It may seem excessive to block a hat when you have a head but it can really give the project a smooth, professional finish and it doesn’t need any specialist equipment!
I’ve blocked this particular hat because the slipped stitches caused the fabric to rumple. I wanted to straighten it out so that you can see the effect of the stitches. The crown is also a feature so I wanted to make sure it lies flat.
Here’s how I block a hat:
1. Place the finished hat in some warm water. You could use wool soaking solution to add some fragrance or conditioning if you wanted to but I’ve gone without here.
2. Let it absorb all of the water.
3. Take it out and give it a good squeeze. Do not wring or you’ll end up stretching it into oblivion and ruining all of your hard work.
4. Lay it on a towel and roll it up, squeezing any further excess moisture out of it.
5. Grab something rounded, like a bowl, a ball or a balloon. I’ve blown up a balloon and inflated it to around the same size as my head. You can always inflate it a little smaller as it will stretch to fit your head anyway. Just work with what you have!
6. Make sure that the hat is secured. Here, I’ve rested the narrow part of the balloon in a vase. This could just be an upturned bowl too.
7. Leave the hat to dry naturally.
When the hat is dry, it will be a slouchier fit than it was before blocking. This is what I want. I can also see the slipped stitches clearly now.
Pictured: The Titania Crochet Shawl draped over a mannequin’s shoulders.
It is a rectangular crochet shawl named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed.
How big is this shawl?
It measures a whopping 19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long when blocked. This really will wrap around you. If you know someone who is 6’4, it is the same height as them!
What yarn did I use to make the Titania shawl?
As with a lot of my designs, the yarn came before the shawl. Sometimes it just tells me what it wants to be. You know how it is with yarn! It has powers.
I used a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece. My shawl was made using The Definitely on purpose Unicorn by Black Stag yarn and fibre. It’s a bluefaced leicster and silk blend 4ply yarn. There;s a 55% Bluefaced Leictester and 45% silk in every skein, so this really is ‘special’ yarn. You can read more about it here.
Pictured: A close up of The Definitely On Purpose Unicorn.
What is the difficulty level for this shawl pattern?
An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.
With only a two stitch pattern repeat, this shawl should be nice and repetitive for you to work on. As it works into the chain spaces rather than the chains, it is also speedy compared with crocheting row by row into every stitch.
Pictured: The Titania shawl photographed from the back when worn horizontally across the shoulders.
Other yarn ideas for the Titania crochet shawl pattern.
Let’s have a look at the different yarns that dome of my testers have used already to make this shawl. Below are samples made by my crochet testers.
This shawl sample was made by Suzanne (Sluvs2knit on Ravelry) and uses Alize Diva Ombre Batik 7370 which is a 4ply gradient cake yarn. I think it’s worked up beautifully and shows off the shawl’s qualities.
If you’re looking for something warmer, you could try Eden Cottage Yarns Tempo 4ply as Elsa has used here. This colourway is called Woodland and you can read more about it here. This is a gorgeous colour and fibre for autumn! I think hand dyed looks exceptional here too.
Pictured: A close up of the Titania shawl using Tempo 4ply.
Maritsa has used a cotton blend 4ply for her shawl. Isn’t it fabulous? Cotton was a more practical option for Maritsa making it and wearing it in Greece during late summer. Hasn’t she done a wonderful job? Sometimes I worry that if I can’t make something in the recommended yarn, it may not look as good. However as you can clearly see here, this works great with cotton. I absolutely love it.
If solid colours are your thing, take a look at Carla’s sample! I saw this and thought ‘wow’ but that could just be because I love bold, bright solids. I may have to make another sample in this colour as it’s wonderful. Great job, Carla!
Pictured, Carla’s sample of the Titania shawl.
I have one more to show you. This is Mary’s sample which was made using Knitpicks Hawthorne fingering in Woodstock.
I hope you enjoyed seeing the samples from my testers. I certainly did! Which is your favourite?
See below for the full crochet shawl pattern.
Titania
Named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed. I chose a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece.
An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Please use my handy US/UK crochet terms guide if you’re unsure of anything.
Glossary
Ch
Make a chain.
Ch sp
Chain space.
Dc
Double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through another 2 loops on hook.
Hdc
Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 3 loops on hook.
Sk
Skip the next stitch(es).
St(s)
Stitch(es).
V st
Make a double crochet stitch, chain 1 and make another double crochet stitch into the same chain or chain space.
Dbl v st
Make 2 double crochet stitches into the chain space, chain 1 and make 2 more double crochet stitches into the same space.
Materials:
Black Stag Yarns The definitely on purpose Unicorn – BFL/Silk Fibre: 55% Superwash Blue Faced Leicester, 45% Silk; 4 ply, 438 yards / 400m per 3.5 oz / 100g skein. 3 skeins.
G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge
4.5 dbl v sts and 9 rows to 4 in / 10cm gauge square using G-7 (4.5mm) hook.
Finished measurements when blocked
19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long.
Notes:
Always ch 2 before starting a hdc row, and ch 3 when starting a v stitch row. Every row ends with an individual Dc st to help the shawl maintain a rectangular shape.
All terms are given in US terminology.
The shawl is worked horizontally beginning with the hdc centre panel. After one side of the pattern is worked, we work into the base of the centre stitches on the other side of the work. This creates the symmetrical effect.
Instructions
Starting with centre panel, ch 244 (2 chs count as turning ch)
Turn.
(Alternatively, work a hdc chainless foundation row of 242 sts.)
Starting with the 4th ch from hook, work 242 hdc. Ch 2 (counts as first st) turn.
Work four more hdc rows in the same way (242 sts and 5 rows in total). On the final row, do not ch 2.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as edge Dc), turn, Sk 2, v st in next ch, *Sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3-4 eight more times.
Finish with one more v st row. Fasten off.
Turn piece around and rejoin yarn to the first hdc st of the first row. Ch 3.
Working into the base of the first hdc row:
Row 1: V st in 7th ch from hook (ch 3 counts as edge Dc), *sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.
If you’ve been looking at sock knitting patterns and techniques lately, you may have noticed that as well as several styles of sock, there are also different styles of heels!
I’m going to show you how to make and turn the square (Dutch) heel which is my favourite sock heel of all time. It’s such a convenient type of heel that I use it in all of my sock knitting patterns.
The square heel is shaped by making some simple increases, short row shaping and decreases. Don’t be put off by ‘short rows’ as it is simply knitting to a gap, turning around and knitting back to the next gap. It’s very easy to do once you understand the basics. I use M1R and M1L to increase the stitches.
Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable?
A square heel sits just under the heel of your foot. As the skin is usually harder here, I wouldn’t say that you can feel the edges of the heel underfoot. This experience could be different for you though! Some people who have a higher instep might prefer a bigger heel such as the flap and gusset heel but I’d still recommend trying all heels before your write any of them off.
This square heel is a neat convenient sock heel and is quite hard wearing too. If you just want a pair of classic knit socks that are a workhorse through cooler months, you have to try this heel.
Is there a heel flap and gusset?
Not quite. Increasing for the heel takes place as you are knitting the sock leg. That’s the gusset part! There is some flat knitting involved (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) when actually turning the heel but you never come away from the rest of the sock. There is no need to pick up any stitches along the sides of the heel. It is integrated into the sock. When it comes to decreasing back down to your original stitch count, you just make some decreases and some careful slipping of stitches to ensure that you don’t create any holes.
Is the square heel adjustable?
Yes, it is. Just add a stitch either side until you get to the desired width or if you have narrower heels, don’t increase as often as the pattern tells you to.
Here’s how to do a square heel. This example is from the advent mini sock pattern which can be found here.
This example heel is from my free sock knitting pattern here.
Increasing for heel:
Round 1: M1R, PM (marker 1), K16, PM (marker 2), M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Round 2: Knit all sts.
Round 3: Knit to marker 1, M1R, SM, Knit to marker 2, SM, M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 2 times, until 8 new stitches have been created.
You now have 24 sts for the heel, 16 sts for the instep and 40 sts in total.
Decreasing for the heel
Row 1: Knit to marker 1, SM, K11, SKP, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.
Row 2: P7, P2tog. Turn.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before gap, SKP. Turn.
Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 2 times.
There you have it- a square heel.
You have decreased back to the original stitch count: 16 sts for both the heel and the instep, and 32 sts in total. You should be right side facing, with marker 1 on your right-hand needle.
‘Fixing gaps’ round: Remove marker 1, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1R and slip the bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to marker 2, remove marker, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1L and slip the twisted bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of round.
Thank you for supporting my work. As you know, I don’t run ads on my blog posts. If you’d like to show your support by leaving a tip, you can do so at Ko fi here. Thank you for visiting my blog!
Have you started reading crochet patterns but you’re not sure where to put your crochet hook? Here I’ll show you where to put your hook in crochet.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
Stitch tutorials on Youtube tend to be standalone videos, meaning they are not about a specific pattern. They show you how to do the stitch at the basic level but if you are looking at a pattern, you’ll find variations of that same stitch. For example, if I am showing you how to do the V stitch, I might do it using double crochet (UK treble) but in a pattern, I may say that the v stitch is made using half double crochet (UK half treble). This changes from pattern to pattern and the designer should always explain how to make the desired stitch if it varies from one of the basic stitches. This is the same for where you are supposed to put your hook. Not all patterns will want you to put your hook under both loops. Some will specify back loop or front loop.
I’ll show you where to put your hook when you’re doing crochet.
This example is using a half double crochet (UK half treble) piece. This example can be used for any pattern that uses any of these basic stitches:
US term
UK term
Single crochet (Sc)
Double crochet (Dc)
Half double crochet (Hdc)
Half treble crochet (Htr)
Double crochet (Dc)
Treble crochet (Tr)
Triple crochet (Tr)
Double treble crochet (Dtr)
Don’t know what any of these are? Try my basic stitch guide here.
Example 1: Hdc stitch not specified.
In this scenario the pattern will just say something along the lines of “Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop” and if you’re a beginner you might think “insert where?”. In this scenario, if the designer has not specified, it means under both loops.
If you look at the top of your stitches, you’ll see that they form a “v” shape. It’s similar to how a knitted stitch looks in stockinette. Imagine that the v has two legs. You need to put your hook under both of those legs.
See how there are two legs on the hook? This still only counts as 3 loops on the hook but I’ve made sure that I’ve gone under both legs of the stitch.
Example 2: The pattern specifies back loop only.
Back loop only is where you insert your hook into the back leg of the v. This is clearly explained in the pattern and the designer wants you to do this to achieve a particular texture.
Example 3: The pattern specifies front loop only.
In this case you need to insert your hook into the front leg of the v. The designer will have specified because it’s crucial to the design. There will be a certain texture that needs to be achieved.
The front loop is the leg of the v that is nearest you. This will also be referred to as the chain or the stitch.
Still not clear on where you need to put your hook?
If the pattern is confusing you, try to get in touch with the designer. Sometimes it could just need spelling out, or there may be a mistake they don’t know about yet.
Want to get started with crochet?
Head to Minerva Crafts to find a range of crochet hooks to help you get started.
Gauge, also known as ‘tension’ is the measurement of stitches to rows or rounds. Gauge is important and here’s why you need to check it.
This is important for several reasons but checking gauge can:
Ensure you are using a suitable size hook or needle.
Ensure that you will have the right amount of yarn.
Help you understand how the yarn behaves.
Helps you to work out whether the item will fit/be the right size.
It’s not just a hoop to jump through. If you are making a garment and have gone to all the trouble of spending your money on 6-8 balls of good yarn, why skip this part? What if you cast off and it doesn’t and will never fit you?
Common anti-gauge statements:
1. “I just accept the mistakes”
This is baffling to me, personally, because if a mistake could be avoided early on, I would take the chance. The gauge swatch is your crystal ball. It shows you how things will work out in the future!
We will all make mistakes when the project gets going. We could drop a stitch, accidentally repeat a row or skip a step but to willingly risk a mistake? Don’t do that.
2. “You don’t need to check gauge for shawls”
That’s interesting. Will you not run out of yarn if your tension is much tighter than the gauge stated on the pattern? I would think so. Best to check and be sure.
3. “It’s a waste of my time and yarn”
You could perceive it that way but the tension square can be unravelled and used for the main project. You don’t have to order 1 ball, do a tension square and then order the other 5. Just reuse the yarn!
Even if the yarn has been blocked, you can still unravel and use it again.
4. “I’ve used the exact yarn and hook recommended so it will be fine”
That’s very optimistic of you but tension varies from person to person and can be altered daily. Don’t take the risk. My favourite lines in a pattern include “Check tension to ensure success”. This all depends on you, not the materials or the tools.
How to I measure my tension?
To measure, take a measuring tape, ruler, or a square gauge (pictured) and measure across the stitches for 4 inches (10cm). Then measure the amount of rows per 4 inches (10cm).
In the above example, there are 5 v stitches and 6 rows per 10cm (4in) square.
All good patterns will give you desired measurements over a 10cm/4in square. What you should then do is knit or crochet that many stitches and that many rows and then measure it. Where does your swatch compare?
I have more stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too tight. If it is too tight, you will end up with the project being much smaller than it should be. The fabric could also be stiff and unflattering, depending on the item. What you need to do is increase the size of your tool by 0.5mm. Keep going up until you get the gauge that is correct.
If your work is coming out as tighter or smaller than it should be, you will likely run out of yarn before the project is finished.
I have fewer stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too loose. If you’re making a garment, it will be too big! The stitches will look loose with lots of loops visible. What you need to do is go down a needle or hook size to match. Start by going down in increments of 0.5mm. You may need to make a few swatches to find your tension but it will be worth it in the end.
If your work is too loose, you will likely have yarn left over at the end of the project.
I have more or fewer rows than recommended, but my stitch count is perfect. What do I do?
In this scenario, you have a few choices. You can either:
Change needle type ie switch from aluminium to bamboo. This can affect the height of the stitches.
Change yarn type. It could be too thin or too thick. Have a look at wraps per inch as opposed to yarn weight, as not all DK and Aran are the same thickness. To find out more about wpi, Eden cottage yarns has a helpful blog post here
Block it. You could get to 4 inches without an extra row by blocking.
Work to the measurements on the pattern. Instead of counting the rows, get your measuring tape out and stop when you’ve reached the measurements it is supposed to be e.g. “work until piece measures 30cm/12in).
Why you have to find your own tension
Don’t feel put off because you’re using a 10mm hook but the pattern says 6mm. This just means that you have really tight tension. Tension may ease (or tighten) with practise but working with your individual tension level is absolutely fine.
Think of the tension square as the cat flap. This cat flap only accepts cats of a certain size. Gerbils can’t get in and neither can a husky. As long as you meet those dimensions needed, the cat can come through the cat flap. You can use whatever hook or needles you need to in order to do this. Using a 5mm needle for a 4mm sock pattern recommendation doesn’t mean you’re wrong. It means you need to give yourself more width to allow for your negative tension.
Do I need to block the swatch?
Many designers recommend blocking your swatch so that you can see how the yarn behaves. Some yarn blooms and other yarn shrinks, so block any natural (or part natural) fibres to see how they will behave. This is important because although your tension may be perfect with wool unblocked, blocking the garment could result in it becoming too big or too small.
In patterns the instructions for garments will say “block to measurements” so block the swatch too!
Blocking acrylic yarns is optional. If the listed materials in the pattern are acrylic, it may not have been blocked unless explicitly stated. If the listed materials include a natural fibre, it will have been blocked. Treat the swatch as it was intended.
How to measure your yarn’s thickness and match it with the required tension.
In this blog post I’m talking all things yarn weight and why it matters. Knitting or crocheting with whatever yarn you have to hand may be an option for you if you just want to make something without a pattern but that will not be the case for other things. Getting the yarn weight right is vital for success in knitting.
When you’re new to knitting or crochet, it may seem that simply using the yarn weight suggested on the ball band will be fine. Sometimes it will, but sometimes it won’t. Here’s a tutorial showing you how to measure yarns to make sure you’re using the best thickness for your individual tension and technique.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
If you’re knitting something with a pattern, it is very helpful to use the yarn weight suggested and here’s why:
Thickness of yarn will affect the finished look.
Meterage is usually lower the thicker the yarn meaning you may need more than you thought.
The drape of the final fabric varies.
The size of the finished project will vary.
The needle or hook required may not match.
If you only have 4mm needles and want to use a chunky yarn, you’re going to end up with a really dense, stiff piece of fabric. That will not work if you’re wanting to wear it, for example.
Do I have to use exactly the same yarn as the pattern states?
No, you don’t. Every knitter has a budget unique to them and there is a lot of personal preference to fibre types anyway, so don’t ever feel that you have to use exactly the same yarn. Yarns come and go and get discontinued frequently (especially commercial yarns) so by the time you come to knitting from a pattern, it may not be available anyway!
You can read more about how to substitute yarn here.
Do I need to have more than one pair of needles?
Yes. I would tell every knitting beginner to invest in a needle range of 3mm-10mm (US3-US15) purely because you’ll come across a range of requirements. Even a DK cardigan or hat pattern that asks for 4mm needles will want you to also have some 3.25mm for the ribbing of the cuffs and button bands.
Have more than one pair of needles so that you can match them to the yarn you have. If someone has kindly sent you away with a bundle of gift yarn to help you get started, you’re going to need to anticipate the requirement for different needle sizes.
Needle sizes ensure that the gauge swatch is correct. This is also referred to as tension in knitting patterns.
How to do a gauge swatch
To do a gauge swatch, take the needles that are recommended by the pattern and take yarn in the size recommended by the pattern.
Knit at least the amount that the pattern states. Ideally, you should knit a few more stitches so that you’re measuring more than just the very outer edges of the square. If the tension is stated as “22 sts by 30 rows” I would cast on and knit 30 stitches and 35 rows just to make sure that I can measure it accurately with a standard knitting gauge ruler like this one here.
If you struggle to get an accurate gauge measurement from measuring with tape or a ruler, you can always use a knitting gauge such as this Knitpro one here.
Your swatch will probably curl up and misbehave at first. What some designers recommend is blocking the swatch to measurements. This is really handy for learning about how your yarn will behave when the item has been washed. You won’t notice much of a difference with synthetic yarns but I would certainly recommend this method for natural fibres or synthetics that are blended with natural fibres.
Your gauge swatch tells you a few things about your yarn weight:
It tells you whether you’re using the right needle size.
It tells you if you’re using a yarn thick or thin enough.
It shows you how much yarn you’ll eat up per inch.
It gives you an idea of how the finished item will look if you knit it in that yarn.
It gives you a chance to see how the yarn will behave after washing.
If your stitches and rows are off, there are some solutions here for you:
Problem one:
If you have more stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go up a needle size. You can start by going up by 0.5mm and work your way from there.
Problem two:
If you have fewer stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go down a needle size. As with the previous instruction, do this by 0.5mm increments.
Does it matter if my stitches are the right size?
Yes, it really does.
Your gauge swatch will tell you if what you’re making will actually fit you or be the size it is supposed to be. If you knit a toy rabbit in 6mm needles and chunky yarn but the pattern calls for 3.5mm needles and DK yarn, you’re going to end up with a much bigger rabbit that requires much more yarn!
To swatch or not to swatch?
Many knitters will say they don’t swatch and that they don’t mind if the finished item and that’s their choice but as a designer I can assure you that dp=oing a swatch saves so much time, hassle and questions. If you’re also a beginner, it’s another practice square before the big event!
In conclusion, you can’t just use any yarn weight unless you’ve got a really clever pattern that allows you to knit in any weight. These patterns will have several tensions in the pattern so the chances of you meeting at least one of them are high! This isn’t common practice though and won’t work for everything.
Learn how to make this satisfying v stitch sweater in the round.
This pattern is free with ads on this blog post. If you would prefer an ad-free download, you can get one here.
The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.
V stitch crochet
Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!
This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.
This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.
I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends! You can read more about the yarn here
This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.
The V Stitch Sweater
The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.
Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!
This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.
This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.
About the yarn
I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends!
This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.
Glossary of crochet stitches
Ch
Chain
The chain is the loop where you insert your crochet hook. Chains also make the first stitch of the row. Make a slipknot, yarn over and pull through the loop. This creates a chain.
Ch sp
Chain space
The space or gap that has been created by stitches in the previous row.
Dc
Double crochet
Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2.
RS
Right side(s)
The side of the fabric that is to be shown worn on the person, on the outside of the finished garment.
Sk
Skip
Skip as instructed.
Sl
Slip stitch
Insert hook, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
St
Stitch
The stitch: e.g. double crochet, v stitch.
V st
V stitch
Make a double crochet into the chain or chain space, chain 1 and make another double crochet into the same chain or chain space. The two dc stitches create a ‘V’ shape.
US terms are used throughout this pattern. If you need a reminder, you can use my crochet terms guide here.
Sizes are colour coded for your convenience: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL
In parts where size is not mentioned, this means that the instructions are the same for all sizes e.g. cuff and edging.
You can adjust the length of the garment at the waist and sleeves by removing/adding 1 or 2 rows/rounds. 1 row is 1 in/2.5cm.
Measurements
Bust measurement
Finished measurement
Full back length
Sleeve
Yarn (per 100g ball)
S/32in/72cm
33in/84cm
21.5in/55cm
20.5in/52cm
4
M/34in/862cm
35in/90cm
22.5in/57cm
21in/54cm
4
L/36in/91cm
37in/94cm
22.5in/57cm
21in/54cm
5
XL/40in/120cm
39in/98cm
24.5in/62cm
21in/54cm
5
2XL/44in130cm
40in/102cm
25.5in/65cm
22.5in/56cm
6
3XL/48in/140cm
42in/106cm
25.5in/65cm
22.5in56cm
6
4XL/52in/133cm
45in/114cm
26in/66cm
22.5in56cm
6.5
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit (240m/262 yds per 100g/3.5oz ball; 100% Premium Acrylic) 4/4/5/5/6/6/6.5 balls.
5mm (H) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Gauge:
5 v sts and 6 rows to 4”/10cm on 5mm (H) crochet hook.
Body:
Ch 123/135/141/147/153/159/171, sl 1st ch and last ch to join in the round.
Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st) and dc in every ch, taking care not to twist sts. Sl to join in the round.
Repeat last row 2/2/2/3/3/3/3 more times.
V stitch rounds
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. (1 v st completed). *Sk2, v st in next st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round. 41/45/47/49/51/53/57v sts.
Round 2: Ch 4, dc in first v ch sp (counts as 1st v st). *V st in every v ch sp around; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.
Repeat round 2 for 18/20/20/22/22/22/23 rounds, or until body measures 38/40/42/44/44/44cm (15/16.5/16.5/17/17/17/17.5in).
19/21/21/23/23/23/24 rounds in total.
Split for front/back
There will be an even number of v sts at the back of the garment and an odd amount of sts at the front. This is because 1 v st will be left unworked in the centre front to help shape the v neck. If it helps, place a removable marker on the centre front v st. Divide the body in half.
Back (worked flat)
Row 1 (RS)- Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. Work 15/17/17/17/17/19/21more v sts. Turn. (16/18/18/18/18/20/22 v sts in total) 4/4/5/6/7/6/6sts isolated for armholes on either side of the piece.
Work 8/8/8/8/9/9/9more rows. Turn
Back neck shaping
Work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts. Fasten off. Sk 6 sts for neck, rejoin and work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts to end. Fasten off.
(10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total).
Front:
Sk 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 v sts and reattach yarn. Work17/19/19/19/19/21/23 v sts. Turn
Left front shaping:
Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11v sts. Turn, leaving 9/10/10/10/10/11/12v sts unworked.
Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). V st to end.
Neck shaping
Row 1- Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). Work 6/7/7/7/7/8/9 v sts, leaving 1 unworked. Turn.
(7/8/8/8/8/9/10 v sts total)
Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.
Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8v sts remaining.
Work even for 2/2/2/2/2/2/2 rows.
10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Right front shaping
Rejoin yarn at marker 4. Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11 v sts. Turn, leaving 1 st unworked in centre front.
Row 1- Sl across 1 v st, v st in next 7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts. Turn. (7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts total)
Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.
Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8v sts remaining.
Work even for 2 rows.
10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Neck after shaping.
Join shoulder seams
With sl st join or a tapestry needle, join the shoulder seams.
Collar
With new yarn, join at the top right of the v neck and ch 3. Dc in centre of every horizontal dc when working down the right side of the neck, dc in top of every dc and centre of every v when working across the centre front, and in the side of every dc working back up the left side. Finally, work a dc into the centre of every v and top of every dc across the back of the neck. Sl st to join the round. Fasten off.
Vest- armholes
Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:
At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.
Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st), sk 1 ch sp (or side dc). V st, sk 1 ch sp, v st, *sk 1 ch sp, v st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.
Sleeves:
At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.
Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:
Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st). V st another 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts evenly across armhole. Sl to join the round.
Next round and every following round:
Ch 4, dc in same ch. V st in every v ch sp around. Sl to join the round.
Continue until sleeve measures 48/50/50/50/52/52/52cm (19/20/20/20/21/21/21in). 24/25/25/25/26/26/26 v sts
Cuff
4 rounds of dc in total. Try the sleeve on to see if you would prefer a longer or shorter cuff.
Sl st and ch 2, dc into every ch around. Sl st to close round.
Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, sk 1; repeat from * to end.
Dc in every dc.
Repeat round 3 once more.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Finishing
Fasten off. Weave in ends and enjoy.
If you loved this v stitch sweater pattern, let me know in the comments! happy hooking!
If you’re just learning to crochet, you may be surprised to see how many knit-like effects you can create with your crochet hook. Single crochet rib (also known as double crochet rib in UK terms) is a really quick and effective way to add rib detailing to your projects.
Crochet rib is a major detail in the Beyond cardigan and as part of this crochet along, I’m doing stitch tutorials to help you achieve your goals of making your first crochet cardigan!
Why not check out these patterns to help you practice crochet rib even more:
Make your chain as instructed by the pattern. Here’s an example chain of 22.
Step 2:
Insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. That does not include the chain on the hook. Make a single crochet stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook.
Single crochet in every chain to end. 21 stitches.
Step 3:
Chain 1 and turn. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook but this time do it in the back loop only. Single crochet in every back loop to end.
Step 4:
Chain 1, turn and work a single crochet stitch into the back loop of every single crochet stitch to end.
Step 5:
Repeat step 4 until you have achieved the desired amount of rows.
Your crochet rib will look like this when you turn it from horizontal to vertical.
Sometimes you just need a simple crochet neck warmer. Not only will this pattern look good with one, two or more yarns but it is a great stash buster and easy to make.
The betwixt cowl is a design that has fun between the lines. Mix two or more colours of yarn to create this woven look. Crocheting the Betwixt cowl is much easier than it looks. The basic stitches required for this pattern are:
Chain (Ch)
Single crochet (Sc) also known as UK double (Dc)
Half double crochet (Hdc) also known as UK treble (Tr)
Everything else in the pattern is built from these stitches. An example of this is the Back post and front post half double crochet.
Here is how you do the front post and back post half double crochet stitches:
Other stitches are included in the glossary below.
Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
If you don’t know your crochet terms, find the handy crochet terms chart here.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
Yarn used to create the Betwixt crochet cowl
The yarn I used to make this crochet neck warmer was a worsted weight. This is also known as aran or 10ply yarn. I would still recommend that you do a gauge swatch when choosing yarns as not all yarn thickness is the same as what it says on the label!
The yarn I used for my sample was Malabrigo worsted which is available in a rich variety of hand dyed shades. I used the colour Marine which is a really deep ocean blue.
The second yarn I used for the contrasting colour was King Cole Riot DK which, although it says “DK” as its weight, it met the worsted gauge required.
I loved how both of these colours interacted. You’ve got the backdrop of a semi solid dark shade and the jewelled tones of waterlily. The pale pinks, greens, silvers and yellows worked as an excellent contrast for this pattern.
The idea behind the design of this cowl pattern
I designed this cowl because I work with a lot of crochet beginners and a common error that beginners make is by inserting the hook in between stitches rather than on top of stitches. When you crochet a solid stitch such as Hdc, you usually insert the hook into the top of the stitch from the previous row to make a new stitch. In this case, I want crocheters to insert their hook between stitches. This creates a woven effect, especially if you use more colours like Joy did, here.
This crochet neck warmer is a quick, satisfying make!
You can see the linked projects for the Betwixt cowl here on Ravelry.
The PDF pattern is available here if you would prefer an ad-free download.
Betwixt Cowl: Crochet Pattern
Betwixt cowl
The texture and clever placement of the half double crochet stitch gives this cowl its eye-catching stripes. Often, crocheters don’t mean to insert their hook in between stitches, but when you do, you can create effects like this!
Gauge:
12 Hdc sts and 15 rows = 10cm/4in using a 5mm (US 8) crochet hook.
Please swatch to meet gauge as I have quite loose tension. You may need to go up a hook size if there are fewer stitches, or go down a hook size if there are more stitches than stated.
Materials:
MC–Malabrigo Worsted (100% merino wool). 190m/208yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Marine colourway.
CC–King Cole Riot DK (70% acrylic / 30% wool). 294m/322yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Waterlily colourway.
5mm (US 8) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Darning needle for weaving in ends
Measurements:
Piece measures 23cm/9in deep and 32cm/12.5in in circumference, after blocking.
Special stitch(es):
The Hdc stitches are made in between stitches of the previous round. Insert hook into the space between the stitches, not into the top of the previous stitch.
Helpful videos:
Hdc rib:
Hdc stitch:
Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
How to make the Betwixt crochet neck warmer:
Setup:
With MC, ch 9.
Row 1: Insert into 2nd ch from hook. Sc to end. (8 scs total). Ch1, turn.
Row2: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. 8 sts total.
Work 77 more rows. (78 rows total)
Body:
Without fastening off, ch2 (counts as first st) and work 77 hdc along top of ribbing. Sl with first st to close round. Join CC and Ch2 in CC.
Hdc in between every previous st. Sl to close round. Join MC and Ch2 in MC.
Repeat Row 2, alternating MC and CC, for 27 more rounds or until cowl measures 22cm/8.75in from edge. On last round, work ch2 in MC.
Top ribbing:
Continuing with MC, hdc rib for 4 rounds. Fasten off.
Finishing: Weave in ends and close gap in sc ribbing. Block to measurements.
Thank you for visiting my blog! Enjoy your pattern.
The Lovechunk sweater is a baby crochet cardigan pattern using worsted weight yarn. This ensures a quick, satisfying gift!
If you’re in need of a quick, easy make to give to a new baby, try the Lovechunk baby sweater. Not only is it made using aran weight yarn for a quicker project but it is available in sizes 6 months to 2 years. Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.
Prefer to get your crochet patterns as a downloadable PDF?
The Lovechunk baby sweater pattern PDF for this baby crochet cardigan is available here.
This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces so it’s the perfect small project to master your emerging crochet skills.
Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.
Why is the Lovechunk baby sweater good for crochet beginners?
The Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent crochet baby cardigan for crochet beginners to make as it helps you learn the fundamentals of crochet garment making in a small, manageable project. Learn how to crochet a flat, even fabric, change colour, seam and apply ribbed edging and cuffs. For such a small thing, this cardigan can help you master a lot of skills and understand how a crochet garment is constructed.
The Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on my baby in September. She is wearing the 6m size.
Here’s why the Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent project even if you’re not 100% confident on crochet garments:
It requires no more than 200g (7oz) of aran weight yarn making it a budget-friendly project.
It is worked in 5 flat pieces making each section bitesize and portable.
You don’t have to do a colour change if you don’t want to.
It takes much less time than a blanket or adult size garment.
It only requires the knowledge of 2 crochet stitches- the half double (Hdc) and single crochet (Sc) making it really easy to remember.
There is hardly any shaping required for the garment, so you can focus on making it.
Each section is clear to follow and is separate so you can focus on what’s best for you and when.
What crochet stitch knowledge do I need?
Below is the glossary of stitches from the pattern to help you understand what is required to make this crochet baby sweater.
Over on my beginners crochet playlist on Youtube you can learn to make both the Hdc stitch and the Sc stitch. Click here to go to my channel.
Other crochet stitches and terms that you’ll need to know in order to make this simple baby cardigan.
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sk: Skip stitches
St(s): Stitch(es)
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
It’s important to know your US terms. Here is a handy chart to remind you of the differences between US and UK crochet terms.
I use US crochet terms in all of my patterns but I always recommend that beginners learn both terms as it will enable you to crochet absolutely everything.
Pattern: Easy crochet baby cardigan.
Lovechunk Baby Sweater
Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.
This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces.
Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.
Gauge
13 sts and 10 rows to 10cm/4in with Hdc using 5mm crochet hook.
Please take time to swatch for tension. If there are fewer stitches in your swatch than suggested, decrease by 0.5mm increments until you get the right amount. If there are more stitches than shown above, increase your hook size by 0.5mm increments until you meet the amount.
Sample shown in size 2 (6-12m)
Notes
Ribbing:
The bottom waistband and the button bands are made with single crochet rib. This is a technique that involves making a single crochet stitch only in the back loop of every previous stitch. Normally, the hook goes under both loops, but for creating texture, you need to only insert into the back loop.
Size Chart
Age
Chest
Finished body circumference
Finished upper arm circumference
Finished wrist circumference
Armhole depth
Lower body length
Total body length
Arm length
0-6m
41cm/16in
42cm/16.5in
19cm/7.5in
11cm/4.25in
10cm/4in
16cm/6in
26cm/10in
13cm/5in
6-12m
46cm/18in
48cm/19in
22cm/8.5in
13cm/5in
12cm/4.75in
18cm/7in
30cm/12in
16cm/6in
1 yr
51cm/20in
53cm/21in
23cm/9.25
14cm/5.5in
13cm/5in
20cm/8in
33cm/13in
20cm/8in
2 yr
56cm/22in
58cm/22.75in
27cm/10.5in
16cm/6.25in
14cm/5.5in
22cm/9in
36cm/14in
22cm/9in
Glossary
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sk: Skip stitches
St(s): Stitch(es)
Pattern uses US terms throughout
Materials
130 (150/180/200)g/ 4.5 (5/6/7)oz of aran weight yarn such as Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Aran 180m/ 197yd per 100g/ 3.5oz ball. Colours used are Paper White and Slate Grey.
1 15mm/ 0.5in button.
1 removable stitch marker
Darning needle
5mm/ US 8 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
Instructions: Back
Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.
Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
Repeat last row 27 (31/35/39) times, or until waistband measures 20 (23/25/27)cm/ 8 (9/10/11)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.
Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 25 (29/33/37) sts across top of waistband. 26 (30/34/38) sts total.
Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows, or until total back measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.
If changing colour, work the next 11 (12/13/14) rows in colour 2.
If using 1 colour, work another 11 (12/13/14) rows, or until total back measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.
Front panels (Make 2)
Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.
Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until waistband measures 10 (11/12/13)cm/ 4 (4.5/5/5.5)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.
Without fastening off, Ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 12 (14/15/16) sts across top of waistband. 13 (15/16/17) sts total.
Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows or until entire front panel measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.
Shape neck
Hdc across 11 (13/13/14) sts. Ch 2, turn, leaving last 2 (2/3/3) sts unworked. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.
If changing colour, work the next 10 (11/12/13) rows in colour 2. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.
There is no obvious wrong side/right side so either work both panels the same as above and turn one piece over or cut yarn and skip 2 (2/3/3) sts before continuing hdc to end for the second panel. This will then leave a neck opening for left and right front. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.
If using 1 colour, work another 10 (11/12/13) rows, or until total front measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.
Mark button hole
Using a removable stitch marker, mark the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) row of the right panel. This will be where the buttonhole goes.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.
Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until cuff measures 11 (13/14/15)cm/ 4 (5/5.5/6)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.
Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc 13 (15/17/19) sts across top of cuff. Ch 2, turn. 14 (16/18/20) sts total.
Row 2: Hdc in 1st st, hdc to last st. 2 hdc in last st. (2 sts increased) Ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Hdc in 4th ch from hook. Hdc to end. Ch 2, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 10 (12/12/14) sts have been created. 24 (28/30/34) sts total.
Work even in hdc until sleeve measures 13 (16/20/22)cm/ 5 (6/8/9)in total. If changing colour, do so in the last 2 rows. Fasten off.
Finishing
Join shoulder seams first, starting from outer edge of shoulder and working your way inwards towards neck opening.
Sew each side seam up to armholes. 3.Seam sleeves and attach to armholes.
Buttonband
Attach yarn, starting at right bottom edge of front right panel. Sc into the side of every hdc row up to neck, around top of neck and down the left side hdc rows.
Sc in every sc until you get to the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) marked row of the right panel. Ch 1, sk 1 and sc to end. Remove marker.
Fasten off. Sew on button. Weave in ends and block, if desired.
