Category: Free Crochet Patterns

Free crochet patterns for beginners. Learn to crochet garments and accessories.

Free Beginner Granny Square Blanket Pattern
Crochet this beginner granny square blanket with a soft DK yarn for extra cosiness.
I’ve used Cygnet Pure Wool Superwash DK for my granny square blanket as it is soft, durable and feels lovely in a blanket.
In this article, I will guide you through making your first ever crochet blanket! Please note that I am a Woolbox affiliate, and if you choose to purchase the yarn via the links I have provided, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
How to crochet a basic granny square:

Although this video doesn’t show the exact same granny square as the one listed in the pattern, watching this video should help you to get the hang of it! All granny squares are the same in the general principle: start in the centre and grow each corner. It doesn’t matter what stitches you do, they’re all going the same way!
Stitches you need to know in order to make this granny square blanket.
Double crochet (UK Treble)

Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Start your practice by making a square of dc. Start by chaining 15. (12 ch + 3 ch for turning ch)
To fasten off: Just pull the last loop through and cut!
Beginner crochet has its hiccups. Here’s some troubleshooting:
1. My piece is getting narrower.
This could be a tension issue e.g. when you chain, you are pulling too tight and creating small, impenetrable loops. It could also be that you are forgetting your turning chain at the end. Another possibility is that when you turn the work around, you aren’t crocheting into the 4th chain from the hook. Always check to make sure you are starting in the 4th chain from hook.
1. My piece is getting wider.
The answer is usually that there are too many double crochet stitches either end. Sometimes when we turn the work around, we can miscount and put the next dc into the 3rd chain from hook, not the 4th. This then gives us an increase at the end of the work. For the first few rows, you really have to check where you are putting your hook. Count the amount of crochet stitches that you have too. Even the pros sometimes add an extra stitch without noticing!
1. My stitches don’t look tall enough.
Make sure that you are following the dc instructions. Yarn over before inserting the hook every time.
1. I can’t crochet into the chain,
This could be because your chain is too narrow. If you are pulling the yarn too tightly (common with beginners) you won’t be able to use the chain. Try loosening your grip or use a hook 1mm larger when chaining.
1. My piece is starting to become rounded.
You are probably putting too many dc stitches into either end, and accidentally working into the sides rather than just across the top. Stop, take a deep breath and start again. Crocheting when you are tired or distracted isn’t worth it. Trust me! I’ve done it many times.
Master granny squares with these tips:
Tips:
1. Crochet patterns are always written with abbreviations. Make yourself familiar with the glossary on a pattern, as it will explain what each abbreviation means.
2. If preferred, you can keep track of where you are by marking each row/round with a pencil.
3. Always check patterns to see if they are written using US crochet terms or UK crochet terms. It makes a big difference!
Materials needed:
- A 4mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- 1kg of DK yarn. I have used Cygnet Pure Wool Superwash DK. (50g per ball)
For your granny square blanket, you will need:
1. 5 balls of Navy for colour A. (250g)
2. 2 balls of Gold for colour B (100g)
3. 2 balls of lt. Grey for colour C (100g)
4. 4 balls of Copper for colour D (200g)
5. 7 balls of cream for colour E. (350g)
If you are going to substitute yarn brands, make sure that the meterage on the ball is the same or similar. Check out my article ‘The best granny square yarns’ to find the substitutes I recommend.
Glossary
Ch(ain) : Make a chain. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through loop.
Ch(ain) space
Dc: Double crochet. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Dc5tog: Yarn over as though to make a dc. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops on hook (2 loops), yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops on hook (3 loops), yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook leaving remaining loops on hook (4 loops) yarn over, insert hook, yrn over and pull through 2 loops, leave remaining loops on hook (5 loops) yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leave remaining loops (6 loops) on hook. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all remaining 6 loops on hook.
Sl st: Insert hook into chain, yarn over and pull through. No height should have been added.
Part 2: Starting the squares
What you will need:
1. Your chosen yarn in order of appearance. I have started with navy blue to match the blanket sample.
2. 1 pair of scissors to cut the yarn.
3. A 4mm crochet hook, or the right sized hook for your yarn.
Round 1:
- With colour A, chain 4 and sl st into the 1st chain (4th chain from hook) to make a ring.
- Chain 2 (counts as 1st dc). Yarn over hook. Work dc5tog into the ring.
This is your first bobble stitch cluster.
- Chain 2 (you may want to chain 3 if it seems too tight) and work 5dctog into the centre of the ring.
- Repeat two more times. Sl st into top of 1st dc cluster to close the round.
Round 2:
1. Sl st across 1st dc cluster until you get to the 1st chain space.
2. Using clasp weft join, or by tying colour B to the strand of colour A, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog.
1. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. Chain 1 and work 5dctog into the same chain space.
2. Repeat step 4 until you have 4 corners. Each corner should have 2 bobble stitch clusters. Sl st into the top of the first cluster to close the round.
Round 3:
At this point, you will now have to work a single crochet bobble stitch between corners. Look out for it!
1. Using clasp weft join, or by tying colour C to the strand of colour B, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. This should not be a corner.
1. Chain 2. Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space. Chain 2.
1. Complete the round by repeating steps 7 and 8 until you finish the last corner. Sl st to join with the 1st bobble cluster of the round.
Round 4-6:
1. Using clasp weft join, or by tying the next colour to the strand of the previous colour, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. This should not be a corner.
1. Repeat step 11 (Repeat once more for round 5 and twice more for row 6).
1. Chain 2. Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space. Chain 2.
1. Complete the round by repeating steps 10 and 11 until you finish the last corner. Sl st to join with the 1st bobble cluster of the round.
1. Using the border colour, chain 3 into the first chain space of the round. Make 2 more double crochet stitches.
2. Dc into the top of every following bobble stitch, and dc twice into every chain space (2 dc for corner chain spaces).
3. Sl st with the 1st dc of the round to close the square.
Repeat all steps a total of 24 times.
Joining your granny squares:
We join the squares using slip stitch (sl st) which is a crochet technique that you have learned already when making the granny square. The only difference here is that the slip stitches will become the seam rather than the end of a round.
When you use a slip stitch join, one side of the piece (right side) will lie flat and the other will have a ridge (wrong side) this is completely normal and is to be expected. Just make sure that you join all of your squares right side to right side and we won’t have a problem!
More help on joining squares is here.
Written instructions:
Place your two squares right sides together. The stitches should all lie parallel.
Working with outside loops only, sl st each st across to join. Make sure that you are only picking up the outside loops as this will affect the overall look of the square.
To join:. Starting at top right of the squares held together, insert your hook into the first outer loop of the square closest to you, picking up a loop. Insert your hook into the outer loop on the square furthest from you, picking up a second loop. 2 loops on hook. Now yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook. 1st slip stitch done.
Repeat this to the end ensuring that you have joined all stitches to the very corner of the square.
Join 4 squares together to make each panel. You should have 6 panels in total.
Making up:
You should now have 6 panels that consist of 4 squares each.
Join panels together using slip stitch. Take the time to ensure that all panels are right sides together when you are joining. The ridge should be on the wrong side of the blanket.
The finished blanket should be 4 squares wide and 6 squares long.
Border:
Working the border is simple. You do exactly the same as you do when you apply a border to each granny square.
The only difference is that you are making a dc into the dc below, just as you did when practising dc at the beginning.
1. Using the border colour, join the new yarn and chain 3 (This is the first dc). Dc in every stitch to the end. Sl st to join the round.
Repeat once more,
You can make your border as thick as you want. I made mine with 2 rounds of navy blue, but I could have easily done 3 or 4.
You can now block the blanket if you wish. Just ensure that it lies or hangs flat, and pin the corners to sharpen their angles.
Weave in ends and enjoy!
July 8, 2025

The Jewel Hat: Crochet Beanie Granny Stitch Pattern.

Jewel hat crochet beanie (100% crochet version)

This is the little sister of the Jewel Hat, with the main difference being that the hat is 100% crochet construction. FpHdc and BpHdc create a ribbed brim and bobble stitches create clusters of jewel like shapes across the hat. Add a pom pom for extra enjoyment.

If you’d prefer an ad-free version of this pattern, the PDF is available on Ravelry.

This pattern contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy any of the recommended supplies, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

All terms are in US terms. If you don’t know your crochet terms, I have a handy guide here.

Materials

75g, (100g, 125g)/ 3oz/3.5oz/4oz of worsted weight yarn such as Malabrigo Worsted or Cygnet Boho Spirit. ( 240m/262yds/ 100g.) Measurement includes pom pom.
5mm/ I-9 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Darning needle to weave in ends.
Pom pom maker (optional).

Gauge:
Rib: 16 Hdc sts and 24 rounds per 10cm (4in)
Body: 6 bobble stitches and 7 rounds per 10cm (4in)

To fit head size up to:

Small adult: 22 inches/ 55cm
Medium adult: 24 in/60cm
Large adult. 25 in/64cm

All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated.

worsted weight crochet beanie pattern. Image shows a granny stitch cluster hat.

Jewel hat crochet beanie in size M using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Dream.

Glossary:

Back post Hdc	Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Bobble st	Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Ch sp	The space or gap created between stitches.
Front post Hdc	Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Hdc	Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Hdc rib	Hdc in the front post of the first stitch, back post hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
Sl	Slip stitch
St(s)	Stitch (stitches)

Special decrease:

When decreasing for the crown, work your bobble stitch over 2 chain spaces:
Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. (2 loops on hook)
Yarn over and insert hook into next ch sp, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and insert hook into same ch sp this time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Pull through all 4 loops on hook.

How to make your crochet beanie: Set up:

Chain 59 (63, 67) and turn.

Hdc into 4th ch from hook (counts as 1st Hdc) and Hdc in every st to end. Sl st into top of 1st Hdc to join the round. 56 (60, 64) Hdc sts in total.

Next round:

Ch 3. Work 6 (6,8) rounds in Hdc rib, using sl st to join rounds.

Jewel hat in largest size with Malabrigo worsted.

Round 1: Insert hook into top of last Hdc, Bobble st in same stitch (completes 1st bobble). *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 Bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first bobble using sl st. Turn.

Round 2: Ch 1 and Bobble in 1st Ch sp in ch sp. *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first Bobble using sl st. Turn.

Repeat round 2 for 5 (6,7) more rounds or until hat measures 20.5cm/8in from 1st hdc round.

Crown decreases:

Decrease round 1: Work 1 Bobble over 2 ch sp. Repeat to end.

Decrease round 2: Work 1 round even. Join with sl st in 1st

Bobble.

Repeat last 2 rounds once more. Fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing up.

Closing the crown.

Drawstring finish to close the crown:

With cut yarn, insert needle into top of every other chain around the hole. Pull to tighten. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Optional: Attach pom pom.

worsted weight crochet beanie free. Crochet hat pattern free. Simple crochet toque pattern. Beanie hats with cluster stitch

Jewel hat with the brim rolled back.

Crochet granny stitch beanie pattern free. Free crochet hat patterns. Crochet hat pattern easy

July 6, 2025

The Jewel Hat: Crochet Granny Stitch Beanie With A Knit Brim.

The Jewel hat is a crochet granny stitch beanie with a stretchy knit brim. If you don’t knit at all, there’s a crochet only version of this hat here. If you’d like to try this version, you can find the pattern below. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF it is also available on Ravelry here.

This blog post contains affiliate links, meaning that any purchases made result in a small commission for me, at no cost to you.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you need a quick reference guide, there is one here.

US and UK crochet terms for beginners. Crochet explained.

Inspiration for this pattern

I love crochet just as much as I love knitting, and I thought it would be fun to combine the two in a single design. You can crochet rib to look just like knitting, but it is quite bulky, uses a lot of yarn, and it just doesn’t stretch as far as a knitted rib does. Because of this, I felt that a hat that combined knitting and crochet in this way would be really fun to make, and quick!

This hat is perfect for emergency hats, or gift knitting. You can whip one up in a couple of hours once you’ve knitted the brim. I love it. All of my kids have a Jewel hat, as do I! I hope you’ll love it too. It comes in several sizes so everyone in the family can have their own.

I used Cygnet Boho Spirit for my sample (main image) which originally used to say that it was DK on the label, but it sits somewhere in between DK and Aran.

We all appreciate how cute and quick the granny stitch is, so here’s a hat that offers the best of this stitch.

A little bit about the Jewel hat: A granny stitch beanie with a knit brim.

The jewel hat is a cute, quick stash busting hat with a knitted rib brim and a crochet body. Sizes included are 12 months to adult large. The crochet stitches work wonderfully with variegated yarn and create clusters of jewel-like shapes but you can use any yarn you like.

The measurements given are for a slightly slouchy beanie. If you would prefer a more exaggerated slouch, go ahead and add to the length of the body before decreasing.

Sample shown in size 2 using Manos silk blend DK in Jamboree. This yarn seems to be discontinued, but Malabrigo has a suitable alternative here if you want a silk/merino singly ply.

Materials for your granny stitch beanie.

Worsted/light worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit. Sample 1 uses Manos Del Uruguay silk blend DK in colourway Jamboree. Sample 2 uses Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic. See table for yarn requirements.
3.75mm needles, either DPN or 80cm circular for magic loop.
4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge:

Knit brim: 1×1 rib 6 sts per 1in 2.5cm
Crochet body: 7 rounds and 6 stitches per 10cm/4in using 4.5mm crochet hook.

Size	To fit head	Yarn weight	Meterage/Yardage
1: 12m-3y	48cm/19in	50g/1.76oz	135m/148yd
2: 3-10years	51cm/20in	75g/2.7oz	200m/219yd
3: Small adult	53cm/21in	100g/3.5oz	270m/295yd
4: Medium adult	55cm/22in	125g/4.4oz	303m/332yd
5: Large adult	60cm/24in	150g/5.3oz	337m/368yd

All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated.

Glossary:

Ch 2: Make two chains.

Ch space: The ‘gap’ or space made by a chain. It is located below the chain.

DC: Double Crochet (US) known as Treble crochet in UK.

Dc cluster: Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

K1 P1 Rib: Knit one stitch, purl one stitch. Repeat to end.

Sl st: Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch.

Simple knit beanie with a crochet body. Granny stitch hat pattern free. Granny stitch crochet toque free pattern. Patterns that combine knitting and crochet.

Instructions for your granny stitch beanie hat:

Using knitting needles, cast on 90 (96, 102, 108, 120) sts

Taking care not to twist stitches, join to work in the round and work 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) rounds in K1 P1 rib or to desired length.

Cast off in rib.

Using a 4.5mm crochet hook and the working yarn, insert hook into first stitch. Dc cluster. Chain 2 and sk 2 stitches. Repeat to end. Join with first Dc cluster using sl st.

30 (32,34,36,40) Dc clusters

Sl stitch across first Dc cluster. *Dc cluster in ch space, ch 2.*

Repeat until hat body measures 12cm/5in (14cm/5.5in, 15.5cm/6in, 16.5cm/6.5in, 17.5cm/7in) from cast on edge.

Decreases:

Start next round in same way as previous rounds. This time, instead of Dc cluster in next ch space, skip one ch space and Dc cluster in every other ch space.

Next round *Dc cluster,, ch 2* repeat * to end.

Work these last 2 rounds until 4,4,4,2,2,2 Dc clusters remain. Ch2 and sl st into nearest cluster or seam up with a darning needle to close hat. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional: Attach pom pom.

Top tip: Try the hat on before decreasing to see how you like the fit. Need more slouch? Work another 2 rounds.

Crochet beanie with a knit brim. /. Granny stitch beanie hat pattern free. Cygnet Boho Spirit Yarn pattern ideas. Easy crochet projects for knitters.

Sample 2 photographed using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic.

Full video tutorial for this beanie hat pattern is here:

July 6, 2025

Totes Crochet Bag. Free Granny Square Tote Bag Pattern.

Free crochet tote bag pattern. Free corchet granny square pattern for beginners. Crochet a bag.

If you love granny squares and functional crochet, here is a pattern for a simple crochet bag that uses joined up granny squares. This is a free pattern for a crochet tote bag.

Can a beginner make this crochet bag? Here’s a quick skill check:

You should be able to:

Make a chain.
Make the basic crochet stitches e.g. double crochet and single crochet. If you need help with your crochet terms, I have a guide here.
Make a granny square. Here’s a free tutorial if you’re not sure how to crochet a granny square.
Join granny squares. Here’s how.

Totes crochet bag

The Totes crochet bag is a simple design for a crochet bag. This is a pattern for a simple cotton crochet tote bag using granny squares and a combination of slip stitch, double and single crochet.

Use this crochet bag for anything. The straps will be worked continuously rather than sewn on for added strength.

Materials:

1 4mm crochet hook
Cygnet 100% Cotton DK (100g per ball): 1 x Smokey Purple, 1 x Pepper, 1 x Peony Pink, 1 x Golden, 1 x Spring, 2 x Vanilla Cream.
Darning needle

Here is the link to the video playlist. The videos do not replace the pattern instructions; they are there as support with visualising the project. It is still useful to learn to read the written instructions to develop your skills.

I use US crochet terms throughout.

Glossary:

Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull through the 1 loop on the hook.
Ch sp	The space of gap that has been created by stitches.
Dc	Double crochet stitch: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sc	Single crochet stitch.Insert hook into the chain or stitch, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2.
Sl st	Slip stitch. Insert hook into chain or chain space, yarn over and pull through.
RS	Right side of the work.
WS	Wrong side of the work.

You can see in the square above where the corners are and how we only increase in corners.

Step 1: Granny squares (Make 8)

Round 1.

Using yarn A, ch 4. Sl st to join with the 1st chain.
Ch 2 and dc 2 times into the centre of the ring.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into centre of the ring. (6 dcs in total.)
Repeat last step 2 more times. (12 dcs in total)
Sl st into top of first dc chain to join the round.

Round 2:

Using. yarn B, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. First corner done.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into next ch sp. Ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 2 twice more.
Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 3

Using yarn C, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp.
Ch 2 and work 3 dcs into next ch sp to corner ch sp
Ch 2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 1 and 2 to end.
Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 4 and 5:

Changing colours (Yarn D and E) at the beginning of each round, work instructions for round 3, 2 more times until you have 5 completed rounds in total.

Border:

Using Vanilla Cream (Yarn F) join new yarn and work 1 dc into the top of every dc stitch, and 2 dcs in every ch sp to end. Sl st to close round.

Assembly:

The squares are joined in pairs and then as fours after some distancing with dc stitch.

Panels (Make 4)

With RS together and yarn F, Sl st to join across one side from the top right corner to the top left corner.

Dc in every dc for two rows across the top of each panel.

Joining panels.

With RS facing, lay the upper panel facing the lower panel. The lower edge of the upper panel should be in line with the upper edge of the top panel. Sl st across to join. The dc rows will now be in the centre and across the top of the bag.

You will now have two rectangular pieces: The front and the back of the bag.

Edges:

Vertical (side) edge:

With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows.

Horizontal (bottom) edge:

With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows.

Joining the bag.

With RS facing, starting at the top right corner, use sl st joining method to join the vertical seam, horizontal (bottom) seam and back up the left side vertical seam.

Straps (make 2)

Using removable stitch markers or safety pins , mark 5 stitches at the top of the bag that sit in line with the centre of each top granny square on the front and the back of the bag. You need to mark 4 areas of the bag.

Using yarn E, join new yarn and dc 5 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Work 39 more rows.

Sl st to join with the marked strap area of the opposite side.

Repeat for second strap.

Weave in ends and enjoy!

July 4, 2025

Summer crochet cardigan pattern. Mesh stitch crochet cardigan.

Here’s a simple summer crochet cardigan with lace openwork and mesh stitch detail. This simple kimono sleeve cardigan is quick to make in cotton yarn.

if you’d prefer to download the ad-free pdf of this pattern, you can do so on Ravelry or Ko-Fi.

This article contains affiliate links, meaning that if you choose to buy from the links, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

This kimono lace cardigan is a summer must have. It’s lacy, light and goes with anything. Make sure you have one in several colours so that no outfit is off limits! The beauty of the kimono cut is the way it can flatter any shape. With the wide sleeves and open front, it has drape and moves beautifully on the wearer.

All you need to know for this pattern is the double crochet stitch (US terms), chain and slip stitch join.

If you need to refresh your knowledge of crochet terms, I have a handy blog post here.

This kimono style cardigan is worked sideways.

It is constructed by making two horizontal panels. The two panels are then folded lengthwise and the sleeves are worked in the round.

The left half is then seamed to the right half at the back and it is ready to wear!

Skills required to make this simple crochet cardigan:

Making a chain. This is essential to every beginner crochet pattern.
Double crochet (UK treble crochet). If you don’t know what that is, please check my handy stitch guide for crochet beginners.

Slip stitch join. If you don’t know what that even means, look at my post about joining granny squares. It’s the same join!

Yarn required to make this simple, lightweight crochet cardigan with mesh stitch.

I used Cygnet 100% cotton DK, which is a firm favourite at Germander Cottage Crafts but sadly, this yarn is discontinued. I have suggested some alternatives. This particular shade is called Peony pink!

If you can’t get your hands on this particular yarn, here are some great alternatives to consider:

Paintbox yarns cotton DK: £2.75 per 50g ball and it comes in a great range of vibrant or pastel colours, as well as neutrals. It’s 125m per 50g ball so you will need another ball or two depending on the size you’re making. It also comes in value packs.

Debbie Bliss Piper DK 5 ball value pack: £40 for 5 balls of this 50% cotton 50% viscose yarn from Debbie Bliss. It’s 200m per 100g ball so matches the Cygnet cotton requirement perfectly. Warm, yet lightweight, Debbie Bliss’ Piper is a versatile DK weight yarn with a crepe texture that drapes beautifully. Piper produces fantastic stitch definition and it’s gloriously silky and smooth to knit. The colour palette is made up of 16 fresh and contemporary shades, which are perfect for seeing you through the changing seasons.

King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK: King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK is a fabulous yarn choice for summer knits and baby clothes! Bamboo yarns are famous for their non-allergic properties, and Bamboo Cotton DK is deliciously smooth on the skin, thanks to its 50/50 mix of bamboo and cotton. Ideal for a cotton summer cardi and robust enough for baby clothes that need to be in and out of the wash, Bamboo Cotton DK comes in a gorgeous range of pastels, deliciously muted berry shades and some deep accent colours. It’s £5.69 per ball and you get 230m per 100g ball!

The Pattern: Crochet Summer Lace Cardigan Pattern.

US crochet terms used throughout.

Crochet cardigan patterns for summer. Easy crochet kimono to make. Crochet kimono cardigan patterns free. Beginner crochet patterns free.

Sample shown in size M on a 44” bust.

Glossary

Ch	Chain. Insert hook, yarn over pull through loop.
Ch sp	The chain space or gap created by the chains of the previous row. Work into the space rather than the chain or stitch.
Dc	Double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2.
Rep	Repeat
Sl st	Slip stitch. Insert hook into loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Sk	Skip a chain.
St(s)	Stitch(es)

Gauge: 12 sts and 10 rows per 10cm/4in in dc using 4mm hook and DK yarn.

1 3Dc cluster measures 2cm tall. Cluster gauge is approximate because of the loose stitch.

Materials:

350g/400g/450g of Cygnet 100% cotton DK in Peony PInk. (200m/219yd per 100g/3.5oz).
4mm/US 6 crochet hook or size needed to meet gauge.
Tapestry needle
4 removable stitch markers.

Sizes:

S can fit chest sizes 32-40″

M can fit chest sizes 42-48″

L can fit chest sizes 50- 56″

Lace pattern:

Row 1: Ch3 (counts as 1st Dc) dc in each of next 3 ch *ch 3 sk next 3ch, Dc in each of next 3 ch* rep from * to last st. Dc in last ch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). *3Dc in next ch- 3 loop, ch3*; rep from * to last Dc. Dc in last ch. Turn

Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) *3Dc in first ch 3 sp, ch 3* repeat * to last ch 3 sp. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern.

Panel measurements:

S: 156cm (61in) long and 42cm (16.5in) wide

M: 162cm (64in) long and 46cm (18in) wide.

L: 174cm (68.5 in) long and 50cm (19.5in) wide.

Lace pattern (above)

Sample shown in size M.

S- 26 3 Dc clusters.

M- 27 3 Dc clusters.

L- 29 3 Dc clusters.

Panel (make 2)

Ch 160/166/178 (3 ch counts as 1st dc) Turn.

Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in every ch. Turn. (158/164/176 sts total)

Ch 3, Dc in every Dc to end. Turn. (158/164/176 sts total)

Work lace pattern (page 2) for 9 (10/11) rows.

Next section:

Ch3 *3Dc in ch sp, Dc in next 3 Dc* Repeat * to end. Ch 3 and turn.

Dc in every dc to end. Turn. (2 dc rows total)

Work lace pattern for 9 (10/11) rows.

Ch3 *3Dc in ch sp, Dc in next 3 Dc* Repeat * to end. Ch 3 and turn.

Dc in every Dc to end. Turn. (2 dc rows total). Fasten off.

Mark for armholes:

Count 47 (49/51) dc sts. Place removable marker on next st. Count another 61 (63/71) sts. Place marker on 62nd (64th/72nd) st. 48 (50/52) Dc sts after second marker.

Fold the piece lengthwise so that the two markers are matched. Secure the markers together.

Do this for the opposite panel also.

Markers are matched to mark the sleeve opening.

Seam the side.

Using sl st join or a tapestry needle, seam the side of the piece from the hem to the underarm. This makes it easier to make the sleeve.

Crochet summer kimono pattern free. Free crochet cardigan patterns for beginners. Mesh stitch crochet pattern ideas. Free crochet summer cardigan. Free summer crochet cardigan pattern.

Sleeve

Reattach yarn and ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). Dc in every dc st around. (62/64/72) dc sts in total. Sl st to join the round.

Work 5 more rounds. Fasten off.

The stitches should be split like this:

S- 158ch 48/62/48

M- 164ch 50/64/50

L- 176ch 52/72/52

Assembly

Join the two back pieces, right sides together using sl st, or seam with a tapestry needle.

Back seam should be 51cm/ 53.5cm/56cm (20in/21in/22in) long.

Weave in ends and enjoy!

Easy beginner crochet cardigan for summer. Crochet summer lace cardigan pattern. Simple summer cardigans to crochet.

Thank you for using this free crochet cardigan pattern! If you have a Ravelry account, why not save it as a project?

June 20, 2025

Titania crochet shawl pattern. Free crochet shawl pattern.

The Titania shawl crochet pattern is an elegant, lace wrap using 4ply yarn and V stitch to create that airy, lace fabric and elegant drape. This is a free crochet shawl pattern but if you would prefer a PDF with no ads, you can get one from Ravelry or Ko-Fi.

Ravelry

Ko-Fi

This article contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase from the links, I do receive a small commission.

This is a simple rectangular wrap and is a great project if you have a couple of skeins of a silky yarn. You can find the full pattern below.

How to make this elegant wrap:

Welcome autumn with this new crochet rectangular wrap: The Titania crochet shawl.

Titania crochet shawl. Long rectangular crochet lace wrap. Free crochet shawl pattern. Crochet shawl pattern free. Easy women crochet scarf.

Titania crochet shawl pattern

©Germander Cottage Crafts

Pictured: The Titania Crochet Shawl draped over a mannequin’s shoulders.

It is a rectangular crochet shawl named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed.

What is the difficulty level for this shawl pattern?

This is an adventurous beginner pattern, meaning that if you know how to make a chain, make a double crochet stitch (UK treble) and know how to work into the chain space, you can make this shawl.

If you don’t know how to do those things, here are some helpful posts:

How big is this shawl?

It measures a whopping 19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long when blocked. This really will wrap around you. If you know someone who is 6’4, it is the same height as them!

What yarn did I use to make the Titania shawl?

As with a lot of my designs, the yarn came before the shawl. Sometimes it just tells me what it wants to be. You know how it is with yarn! It has powers.

I used a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece. My shawl was made using The Definitely on purpose Unicorn by Black Stag yarn and fibre. It’s a bluefaced leicster and silk blend 4ply yarn. There;s a 55% Bluefaced Leictester and 45% silk in every skein, so this really is ‘special’ yarn. You can read more about it here.

Pictured: A close up of The Definitely On Purpose Unicorn.

Definitely on purpose unicorn hand dyed silk bloend yarn used for the Titania shawl.

If you can’t get this yarn, I can recommend some here that will work just as well for the silkiness and the drape:

Valley Yarns Charlemont: This is 60% Merino Wool 20% Silk 20% Polyamide, 401m (439yds)/100g (3.53oz), 4 Ply and will do the job just as well as the yarn I used for my crochet shawl. It is £16.49 a skein and comes in a range of colours. It is pictured here in Mulberry.

King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply: This is actually a really lovely, silky cotton yarn with good drape. It doesn’t pill as much as merino based yarns do, so it’s not only a great budget yarn but it’s a good yarn to work with. It’s 100% Cotton, 160m (175yds)/50g (1.76oz), 4 Ply. You will need approximately 5-6 balls of this, but at £3.09 a ball, it’s a great affordable choice, coming in at half the price of the Valley Yarns option.

Cascade Yarns 220 Fingering: This is another great choice if you’re wanting to use a natural fibre. This is 100% wool and you get 250m (275yd) per 50g skein. You’d therefore need 4 skeins of this to make the shawl. It’s £4.99 a skein, putting it in the mid-range of yarn prices mentioned here.

An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.

With only a two stitch pattern repeat, this shawl should be nice and repetitive for you to work on. As it works into the chain spaces rather than the chains, it is also speedy compared with crocheting row by row into every stitch.

Crochet lace shawl. The Titania crochet lave wrap across shoulders.

Pictured: The Titania shawl photographed from the back when worn horizontally across the shoulders.

Other yarn ideas for the Titania crochet shawl pattern.

Let’s have a look at the different yarns that dome of my testers have used already to make this shawl. Below are samples made by my crochet testers.

This shawl sample was made by Suzanne (Sluvs2knit on Ravelry) and uses Alize Diva Ombre Batik 7370 which is a 4ply gradient cake yarn. I think it’s worked up beautifully and shows off the shawl’s qualities.

A lace shawl hanging from a window. The Titania lace shawl. Alize Diva Ombre batik.

If you’re looking for something warmer, you could try Eden Cottage Yarns Tempo 4ply as Elsa has used here. This colourway is called Woodland and you can read more about it here. This is a gorgeous colour and fibre for autumn! I think hand dyed looks exceptional here too.

Close up of Tempo 4ply in woodland. Rectangular lace shawl

Pictured: A close up of the Titania shawl using Tempo 4ply.

Titania crochet lace shawl pattern pdf. Easy crochet shawls to make.

I hope you enjoyed seeing the samples from my testers. I certainly did! Which is your favourite?

See below for the full crochet shawl pattern.

Titania

Named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed. I chose a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece.

An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Please use my handy US/UK crochet terms guide if you’re unsure of anything.

Glossary

Ch	Make a chain.
Ch sp	Chain space.
Dc	Double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through another 2 loops on hook.
Hdc	Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 3 loops on hook.
Sk	Skip the next stitch(es).
St(s)	Stitch(es).
V st	Make a double crochet stitch, chain 1 and make another double crochet stitch into the same chain or chain space.
Dbl v st	Make 2 double crochet stitches into the chain space, chain 1 and make 2 more double crochet stitches into the same space.

Materials:

Black Stag Yarns The definitely on purpose Unicorn – BFL/Silk Fibre: 55% Superwash Blue Faced Leicester, 45% Silk; 4 ply, 438 yards / 400m per 3.5 oz / 100g skein. 3 skeins.
G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge

4.5 dbl v sts and 9 rows to 4 in / 10cm gauge square using G-7 (4.5mm) hook.

Finished measurements when blocked

19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long.

Notes:

Always ch 2 before starting a hdc row, and ch 3 when starting a v stitch row. Every row ends with an individual Dc st to help the shawl maintain a rectangular shape.

All terms are given in US terminology.

The shawl is worked horizontally beginning with the hdc centre panel. After one side of the pattern is worked, we work into the base of the centre stitches on the other side of the work. This creates the symmetrical effect.

Instructions

Starting with centre panel, ch 244 (2 chs count as turning ch)

Turn.

(Alternatively, work a hdc chainless foundation row of 242 sts.)

Starting with the 4th ch from hook, work 242 hdc. Ch 2 (counts as first st) turn.

Work four more hdc rows in the same way (242 sts and 5 rows in total). On the final row, do not ch 2.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as edge Dc), turn, Sk 2, v st in next ch, *Sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Repeat Rows 3-4 eight more times.

Finish with one more v st row. Fasten off.

Turn piece around and rejoin yarn to the first hdc st of the first row. Ch 3.

Working into the base of the first hdc row:

Row 1: V st in 7th ch from hook (ch 3 counts as edge Dc), *sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Repeat Rows 3-4 eight more times.

Finish with one more v st row. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in ends and pin out to measurements shown.

June 15, 2025

Crochet V stitch sweater: The Breeze Pullover.

Learn how to make this satisfying v stitch sweater in the round.

This pattern is free with ads on this blog post. If you would prefer an ad-free download, you can get one here.

This article uses affiliate links. This means that if you make a purchase from a link in this post, I receive a small commission.

The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.

V stitch crochet

Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!

This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.

This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.

I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends! You can read more about the yarn here

This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.

V stitch crochet sweater pattern. Easy crochet patterns in the round. Modern crochet patterns for women. Aran weight projects. Worsted weight crochet patterns. V neck crochet sweater pattern pdf — The V Stitch Sweater

The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.

Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!

This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.

This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.

About the yarn

This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.

Glossary of crochet stitches

Ch	Chain	The chain is the loop where you insert your crochet hook. Chains also make the first stitch of the row. Make a slipknot, yarn over and pull through the loop. This creates a chain.
Ch sp	Chain space	The space or gap that has been created by stitches in the previous row.
Dc	Double crochet	Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2.
RS	Right side(s)	The side of the fabric that is to be shown worn on the person, on the outside of the finished garment.
Sk	Skip	Skip as instructed.
Sl	Slip stitch	Insert hook, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
St	Stitch	The stitch: e.g. double crochet, v stitch.
V st	V stitch	Make a double crochet into the chain or chain space, chain 1 and make another double crochet into the same chain or chain space. The two dc stitches create a ‘V’ shape.

US terms are used throughout this pattern. If you need a reminder, you can use my crochet terms guide here.

Sizes are colour coded for your convenience: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL

In parts where size is not mentioned, this means that the instructions are the same for all sizes e.g. cuff and edging.

You can adjust the length of the garment at the waist and sleeves by removing/adding 1 or 2 rows/rounds. 1 row is 1 in/2.5cm.

Measurements

Bust measurement	Finished measurement	Full back length	Sleeve	Yarn (per 100g ball)
S/32in/72cm	33in/84cm	21.5in/55cm	20.5in/52cm	4
M/34in/862cm	35in/90cm	22.5in/57cm	21in/54cm	4
L/36in/91cm	37in/94cm	22.5in/57cm	21in/54cm	5
XL/40in/120cm	39in/98cm	24.5in/62cm	21in/54cm	5
2XL/44in130cm	40in/102cm	25.5in/65cm	22.5in/56cm	6
3XL/48in/140cm	42in/106cm	25.5in/65cm	22.5in56cm	6
4XL/52in/133cm	45in/114cm	26in/66cm	22.5in56cm	6.5

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit (240m/262 yds per 100g/3.5oz ball; 100% Premium Acrylic) 4/4/5/5/6/6/6.5 balls. I used the colour sapphire.
5mm (H) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle

Gauge:

5 v sts and 6 rows to 4”/10cm on 5mm (H) crochet hook.

Body:

Ch 123/135/141/147/153/159/171, sl 1st ch and last ch to join in the round.

Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st) and dc in every ch, taking care not to twist sts. Sl to join in the round.

Repeat last row 2/2/2/3/3/3/3 more times.

V stitch rounds

Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. (1 v st completed). *Sk2, v st in next st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round. 41/45/47/49/51/53/57 v sts.

Round 2: Ch 4, dc in first v ch sp (counts as 1st v st). *V st in every v ch sp around; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.

Repeat round 2 for 18/20/20/22/22/22/23 rounds, or until body measures 38/40/42/44/44/44cm (15/16.5/16.5/17/17/17/17.5in).

19/21/21/23/23/23/24 rounds in total.

Split for front/back

There will be an even number of v sts at the back of the garment and an odd amount of sts at the front. This is because 1 v st will be left unworked in the centre front to help shape the v neck. If it helps, place a removable marker on the centre front v st. Divide the body in half.

Back (worked flat)

Row 1 (RS)- Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. Work 15/17/17/17/17/19/21 more v sts. Turn. (16/18/18/18/18/20/22 v sts in total) 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 sts isolated for armholes on either side of the piece.

Work 8/8/8/8/9/9/9 more rows. Turn

Back neck shaping

Work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts. Fasten off. Sk 6 sts for neck, rejoin and work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts to end. Fasten off.

(10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total).

Front:

Sk 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 v sts and reattach yarn. Work 17/19/19/19/19/21/23 v sts. Turn

Left front shaping:

Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11v sts. Turn, leaving 9/10/10/10/10/11/12v sts unworked.

Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). V st to end.

Neck shaping

Row 1- Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). Work 6/7/7/7/7/8/9 v sts, leaving 1 unworked. Turn.

(7/8/8/8/8/9/10 v sts total)

Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.

Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8 v sts remaining.

Work even for 2/2/2/2/2/2/2 rows.

10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.

Fasten off. Cut yarn.

Right front shaping

Rejoin yarn at marker 4. Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11 v sts. Turn, leaving 1 st unworked in centre front.

Row 1- Sl across 1 v st, v st in next 7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts. Turn. (7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts total)

Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.

Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8 v sts remaining.

Work even for 2 rows.

10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.

Fasten off. Cut yarn.

Neck after shaping.

Join shoulder seams

With sl st join or a tapestry needle, join the shoulder seams.

Collar

With new yarn, join at the top right of the v neck and ch 3. Dc in centre of every horizontal dc when working down the right side of the neck, dc in top of every dc and centre of every v when working across the centre front, and in the side of every dc working back up the left side. Finally, work a dc into the centre of every v and top of every dc across the back of the neck. Sl st to join the round. Fasten off.

Free crochet sweater pattern. Easy v stitch crochet jumper with cygnet boho spirit yarn. V neck crochet sweater pattern free. Aran weight crochet tops.

Vest- armholes

Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:

At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.

Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st), sk 1 ch sp (or side dc). V st, sk 1 ch sp, v st, *sk 1 ch sp, v st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.

Sleeves:

At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.

Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:

Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st). V st another 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts evenly across armhole. Sl to join the round.

Next round and every following round:

Ch 4, dc in same ch. V st in every v ch sp around. Sl to join the round.

Continue until sleeve measures 48/50/50/50/52/52/52cm (19/20/20/20/21/21/21in). 24/25/25/25/26/26/26 v sts

Cuff

4 rounds of dc in total. Try the sleeve on to see if you would prefer a longer or shorter cuff.

Sl st and ch 2, dc into every ch around. Sl st to close round.
Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, sk 1; repeat from * to end.
Dc in every dc.
Repeat round 3 once more.

Fasten off. Cut yarn.

Finishing

Fasten off. Weave in ends and enjoy.

If you loved this v stitch sweater pattern, let me know in the comments! happy hooking!

June 13, 2025

The Betwixt Crochet Cowl: A Simple Crochet Neck Warmer Pattern.
Sometimes you just need a simple crochet neck warmer. Not only will this pattern look good with one, two or more yarns but it is a great stash buster and easy to make.
The betwixt cowl is a design that has fun between the lines. Mix two or more colours of yarn to create this woven look. Crocheting the Betwixt cowl is much easier than it looks. The basic stitches required for this pattern are:
- Chain (Ch)
- Single crochet (Sc) also known as UK double (Dc)
- Half double crochet (Hdc) also known as UK treble (Tr)
Everything else in the pattern is built from these stitches. An example of this is the Back post and front post half double crochet.
Here is how you do the front post and back post half double crochet stitches:

Other stitches are included in the glossary below.
Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
If you don’t know your crochet terms, find the handy crochet terms chart here.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
Yarn used to create the Betwixt crochet cowl
The yarn I used to make this crochet neck warmer was a worsted weight. This is also known as aran or 10ply yarn. I would still recommend that you do a gauge swatch when choosing yarns as not all yarn thickness is the same as what it says on the label!
The yarn I used for my sample was Malabrigo worsted which is available in a rich variety of hand dyed shades. I used the colour Marine which is a really deep ocean blue.
The second yarn I used for the contrasting colour was King Cole Riot DK which, although it says “DK” as its weight, it met the worsted gauge required.
I loved how both of these colours interacted. You’ve got the backdrop of a semi solid dark shade and the jewelled tones of waterlily. The pale pinks, greens, silvers and yellows worked as an excellent contrast for this pattern.
The idea behind the design of this cowl pattern
I designed this cowl because I work with a lot of crochet beginners and a common error that beginners make is by inserting the hook in between stitches rather than on top of stitches. When you crochet a solid stitch such as Hdc, you usually insert the hook into the top of the stitch from the previous row to make a new stitch. In this case, I want crocheters to insert their hook between stitches. This creates a woven effect, especially if you use more colours like Joy did, here.
This crochet neck warmer is a quick, satisfying make!
Photo credit to @JollyToadstool
- You can see the linked projects for the Betwixt cowl here on Ravelry.
- The PDF pattern is available here if you would prefer an ad-free download.
Betwixt Cowl: Crochet Pattern
Betwixt cowl
The texture and clever placement of the half double crochet stitch gives this cowl its eye-catching stripes. Often, crocheters don’t mean to insert their hook in between stitches, but when you do, you can create effects like this!
Gauge:
12 Hdc sts and 15 rows = 10cm/4in using a 5mm (US 8) crochet hook.
Please swatch to meet gauge as I have quite loose tension. You may need to go up a hook size if there are fewer stitches, or go down a hook size if there are more stitches than stated.
Materials:
- MC–Malabrigo Worsted (100% merino wool). 190m/208yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Marine colourway.
- CC–King Cole Riot DK (70% acrylic / 30% wool). 294m/322yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Waterlily colourway.
- 5mm (US 8) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Darning needle for weaving in ends
Measurements:
Piece measures 23cm/9in deep and 32cm/12.5in in circumference, after blocking.
Special stitch(es):
The Hdc stitches are made in between stitches of the previous round. Insert hook into the space between the stitches, not into the top of the previous stitch.
Helpful videos:
Hdc rib:

Hdc stitch:

Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
How to make the Betwixt crochet neck warmer:
Setup:
With MC, ch 9.
Row 1: Insert into 2nd ch from hook. Sc to end. (8 scs total). Ch1, turn.
Row2: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. 8 sts total.
Work 77 more rows. (78 rows total)
Body:
1. Without fastening off, ch2 (counts as first st) and work 77 hdc along top of ribbing. Sl with first st to close round. Join CC and Ch2 in CC.
2. Hdc in between every previous st. Sl to close round. Join MC and Ch2 in MC.
Repeat Row 2, alternating MC and CC, for 27 more rounds or until cowl measures 22cm/8.75in from edge. On last round, work ch2 in MC.
Top ribbing:
Continuing with MC, hdc rib for 4 rounds. Fasten off.
Finishing: Weave in ends and close gap in sc ribbing. Block to measurements.
Thank you for visiting my blog! Enjoy your pattern.
If you require any pattern support please don’t hesitate to leave a comment or email me at info@germandercottagecrafts.co.uk
Happy hooking!
June 13, 2025

Easy baby crochet cardigan: Lovechunk sweater.

The Lovechunk sweater is a baby crochet cardigan pattern using worsted weight yarn. This ensures a quick, satisfying gift!

If you’re in need of a quick, easy make to give to a new baby, try the Lovechunk baby sweater. Not only is it made using aran weight yarn for a quicker project but it is available in sizes 6 months to 2 years. Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.

Prefer to get your crochet patterns as a downloadable PDF?

The Lovechunk baby sweater pattern PDF for this baby crochet cardigan is available h ere .

This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces so it’s the perfect small project to master your emerging crochet skills.

Really easy baby cardigan for crochet beginners. Crochet sweater for babies and toddlers. learn to crochet a quick and easy baby sweater pattern pdf.

Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.

There are affiliate links on this page. If you choose to purchase any yarn or tools with the links provided, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Why is the Lovechunk baby sweater good for crochet beginners?

The Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent crochet baby cardigan for crochet beginners to make as it helps you learn the fundamentals of crochet garment making in a small, manageable project. Learn how to crochet a flat, even fabric, change colour, seam and apply ribbed edging and cuffs. For such a small thing, this cardigan can help you master a lot of skills and understand how a crochet garment is constructed.

About the yarn

I used Paintbox Wool Mix Aran because it’s so soft and comes in a range of vibrant colours.

Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on a baby. Easy crochet cardigan pattern pdf. Quick crochet makes for babies and toddlers.

The Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on my baby in September 2023, when she was 3 months old. She is wearing the 6m size, but she was 10lb when she was born, so always check the baby’s size before starting your project.

Here’s why the Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent project even if you’re not 100% confident on crochet garments:

It requires no more than 200g (7oz) of aran weight yarn making it a budget-friendly project.
It is worked in 5 flat pieces making each section bitesize and portable.
You don’t have to do a colour change if you don’t want to.
It takes much less time than a blanket or adult size garment.
It only requires the knowledge of 2 crochet stitches- the half double (Hdc) and single crochet (Sc) making it really easy to remember.
There is hardly any shaping required for the garment, so you can focus on making it.
Each section is clear to follow and is separate so you can focus on what’s best for you and when.

What crochet stitch knowledge do I need?

Below is the glossary of stitches from the pattern to help you understand what is required to make this crochet baby sweater.

Over on my beginners crochet playlist on Youtube you can learn to make both the Hdc stitch and the Sc stitch. Click here to go to my channel.

Other crochet stitches and terms that you’ll need to know in order to make this simple baby cardigan.

Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.

Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.

Sk: Skip stitches

St(s): Stitch(es)

Pattern uses US terms throughout.

It’s important to know your US terms. Here is a handy chart to remind you of the differences between US and UK crochet terms.

The difference betweenb UK and US crochet terms. Crochet terminology for beginners. Learn your crochet terms.

I use US crochet terms in all of my patterns but I always recommend that beginners learn both terms as it will enable you to crochet absolutely everything.

Pattern: Easy crochet baby cardigan.

Lovechunk Baby Sweater

Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.

This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces.

Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.

Gauge

13 sts and 10 rows to 10cm/4in with Hdc using 5mm crochet hook.

Please take time to swatch for tension. If there are fewer stitches in your swatch than suggested, decrease by 0.5mm increments until you get the right amount. If there are more stitches than shown above, increase your hook size by 0.5mm increments until you meet the amount.

Sample shown in size 2 (6-12m)

Notes

Ribbing:

The bottom waistband and the button bands are made with single crochet rib. This is a technique that involves making a single crochet stitch only in the back loop of every previous stitch. Normally, the hook goes under both loops, but for creating texture, you need to only insert into the back loop.

Size Chart

Age	Chest	Finished body circumference	Finished upper arm circumference	Finished wrist circumference	Armhole depth	Lower body length	Total body length	Arm length
0-6m	41cm/16in	42cm/16.5in	19cm/7.5in	11cm/4.25in	10cm/4in	16cm/6in	26cm/10in	13cm/5in
6-12m	46cm/18in	48cm/19in	22cm/8.5in	13cm/5in	12cm/4.75in	18cm/7in	30cm/12in	16cm/6in
1 yr	51cm/20in	53cm/21in	23cm/9.25	14cm/5.5in	13cm/5in	20cm/8in	33cm/13in	20cm/8in
2 yr	56cm/22in	58cm/22.75in	27cm/10.5in	16cm/6.25in	14cm/5.5in	22cm/9in	36cm/14in	22cm/9in

Glossary

Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.

Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.

Sk: Skip stitches

St(s): Stitch(es)

Pattern uses US terms throughout

Materials

130 (150/180/200)g/ 4.5 (5/6/7)oz of aran weight yarn such as Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Aran 180m/ 197yd per 100g/ 3.5oz ball. Colours used are Paper White and Slate Grey.
1 15mm/ 0.5in button.
1 removable stitch marker
Darning needle
5mm/ US 8 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

You can find the Paintbox yarn I used for both cardigans here.

Instructions:
Back

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 27 (31/35/39) times, or until waistband measures 20 (23/25/27)cm/ 8 (9/10/11)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 25 (29/33/37) sts across top of waistband. 26 (30/34/38) sts total.

Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows, or until total back measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.

If changing colour, work the next 11 (12/13/14) rows in colour 2.

If using 1 colour, work another 11 (12/13/14) rows, or until total back measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.

Front panels (Make 2)

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until waistband measures 10 (11/12/13)cm/ 4 (4.5/5/5.5)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, Ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 12 (14/15/16) sts across top of waistband. 13 (15/16/17) sts total.

Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows or until entire front panel measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.

Shape neck

Hdc across 11 (13/13/14) sts. Ch 2, turn, leaving last 2 (2/3/3) sts unworked. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

If changing colour, work the next 10 (11/12/13) rows in colour 2. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

There is no obvious wrong side/right side so either work both panels the same as above and turn one piece over or cut yarn and skip 2 (2/3/3) sts before continuing hdc to end for the second panel. This will then leave a neck opening for left and right front. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

If using 1 colour, work another 10 (11/12/13) rows, or until total front measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.

Mark button hole

Using a removable stitch marker, mark the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) row of the right panel. This will be where the buttonhole goes.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until cuff measures 11 (13/14/15)cm/ 4 (5/5.5/6)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc 13 (15/17/19) sts across top of cuff. Ch 2, turn. 14 (16/18/20) sts total.

Row 2: Hdc in 1st st, hdc to last st. 2 hdc in last st. (2 sts increased) Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc in 4th ch from hook. Hdc to end. Ch 2, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 10 (12/12/14) sts have been created. 24 (28/30/34) sts total.

Work even in hdc until sleeve measures 13 (16/20/22)cm/ 5 (6/8/9)in total. If changing colour, do so in the last 2 rows. Fasten off.

Finishing

Join shoulder seams first, starting from outer edge of shoulder and working your way inwards towards neck opening.

Sew each side seam up to armholes. 3.Seam sleeves and attach to armholes.

Buttonband

Attach yarn, starting at right bottom edge of front right panel. Sc into the side of every hdc row up to neck, around top of neck and down the left side hdc rows.

Sc in every sc until you get to the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) marked row of the right panel. Ch 1, sk 1 and sc to end. Remove marker.

Fasten off. Sew on button. Weave in ends and block, if desired.

Simple crochet baby cardigan pattern. Worsted weight crochet patterns. Quick baby crochet pattern.

June 13, 2025

Starburst Cardigan. Chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

This is a free crochet pattern for a chunky, multi-coloured cardigan. You can either use this free version with ads, or the pattern is also available here with no ads.

Ravelry

Ko-Fi Shop

The main feature of this crochet cardigan pattern is the bobble stitch. This is a fun stitch that will be a breeze to make as once you’ve done the first row, you crochet into the spaces, not the stitches! Here’s how to do the bobble stitch:

Bobble stitch-
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook.
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row.

Simple crochet cardigan pattern free. Free crochet cardigan pattern for women. Cardigans for chunky yarn. Stylecraft special chunky. Ravelry cardigan patterns free. Rainbow cardigan pattern. Easy crochet sweaters and cardigans. The Starburst cardigan pattern pdf. Free crochet for women. Bulky yarn patterns.

Starburst Cardigan: a chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

Named after the much loved 90s fruit chews, this cardigan promises a burst of colour and a quick turnaround. The funnel sleeves give it a retro feel and the bobbles scream retro charm.

This article does use affiliate links. This means that if you do choose to purchase anything with the links I’ve used, I do earn a small commission from that purchase at no cost to you. Thank you!

Wear it as an oversized addition to your wardrobe all year round!

Materials needed:

Stylecraft special Chunky. 100% Acrylic; 144 metres / 157 yards per 100g / 3.5oz 1 (1,1*,2,2) balls of each colour. *Size M needs 2 balls of Denim in total for the border, but 1 of every other colour. They also do a value pack if you wanted to simply do it in one colour.

Raspberry (1023)
Meadow (1065)
Lavender (1188)
Fondant (1241)
Lipstick (1246)
Denim (1302)
Camel (1420)
Aspen (1422)
6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
4 removable stitch markers.
Darning needle for weaving in ends.

Instructions to make this simple crochet cardigan pattern:

Gauge:

3 bobble stitches and 3 ch spaces/ 4 rows to 10cm/4” using a 6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook and Stylecraft Special Chunky.

Bobble stitch-
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook.
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

Things to be aware of before you make the Starburst crochet cardigan.

When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row.

US terms are used throughout. Please ensure that you are using the correct terms as this will significantly alter the finished result.

If you need a quick reminder of the US/UK terms, there’s a handy blog post here.

When working in the round, you will need to sl st to join the round at the end. Start your next round by slipping across the top of the first cluster, rejoining your yarn when you get to the chain space.

When you are starting in the round, make 2 chains into the first ch sp. This counts as the first leg of the bobble. Complete step 2-4 to finish the bobble.

Information about sizing and yarn requirement.

Sample shown is M.

The colours on the pattern sample M are worked from the bottom up in the following order:

Fondant
Raspberry
Lipstick
Lavender
Denim
Aspen
Meadow
Camel

Note: At the end of every other row there will be an individual double crochet stitch. This makes the edging process easier. Check out the blog for more tips and videos on the Starburst cardigan.

Body measurement chart:

Size	Chest	Sleeves	Back
XS	26-30” (66-76cm )	18” (46cm)	28” (71cm)
S	32-36” (81-91cm)	20” (51cm)	28” (71cm)
M	40-44” (102-107cm)	20” (51cm)	30” (76cm)
L	46-48” (117-122cm	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)
XL	50-52” (127-132cm)	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)

Glossary:

Bobble	See description on page 2
Ch / Ch sp	Chain(s)/ Chain space
Dc	Double crochet (US terms)
Sk	Skip stitches
Sl	Slip stitch

Bobble table

See example of separating in this Youtube link here

Size	Chains	Bobbles	Front	Sleeve	Back
XS	69 ch	22	3	3	10
S	78 ch	25	3	4	11
M	102 ch	33	5	5	11
L	114 ch	36	5	6	14
XL	144	46	7	8	16

Instructions for the cardigan:

Row 1: Chain 69 (78/102/114/144)

(3 ch count as 1st dc) sk 2 ch, bobble in next ch, *ch 2, sk 2, bobble* repeat from * to last ch OR bobble* Make a dc in last ch. 22 (25/33/36/46) bobbles. Ch 3 and turn.

Row 2 and every following row:

*bobble in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat * to final dc. Make 1 dc, ch 3 and turn.

Changing colours every row, repeat row 2 for 20 (22/22/24/24) more rows

Separate for sleeves

Isolate sections of the cardigan. Using the bobble chart, mark the beginning and end of the back stitches and mark the armholes. There should be 4 markers in total.

Front left/Front right

Work only 3 (3/5/5/7) bobble stitches for the next row.

Work 5 (5/6/6/7) more rows. Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn and repeat on other side for front right

Back

Working with the bobble stitches on either side of the 2nd sleeve marker, work 5 (5/6/6/7) rows. Fasten off.

Join shoulder seams using sl st or seam with a darning needle.

Sleeves (work 2):

Joining new yarn, work 18 (20/22/22/24) bobble stitches evenly across armhole. Where there are bobble stitches under the armhole, you can work one bobble st into each ch sp as normal. Where you are working with the sides of stitches, work into the side of the posts/clusters.

To join each round, sl st into the top of the first bobble and sl across to next ch sp. Change colours here and start the next round with 2 ch and 2 more dcs in the bobble.

Work 20 (20/22/24/24) rounds in total. Fasten off.

Edges (including collar and front edges)

Row 1: Starting at bottom left corner, insert hook into the ch sp and chain 3. 2 dc in the side of every stitch post and 2 dc in every ch sp along. Continue all the way around the left front, collar, right front and waistband.

Row 2: Dc in every stitch to end. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Notes: This pattern uses bobble stitch clusters consisting of 3dc stitches joined together. The edging is worked using dc stitches. The cardigan is designed to be oversized. If you feel that the body is too long, please feel free to start your underarm marking 1 or 2 rows before the instructions state.

Love your project?

Need to brush up on your crochet skills? Why not have a look at the other resources on the blog.

June 11, 2025

Category: Free Crochet Patterns

How to crochet a basic granny square:

Stitches you need to know in order to make this granny square blanket.

Beginner crochet has its hiccups. Here’s some troubleshooting:

Master granny squares with these tips:

For your granny square blanket, you will need:

Glossary

Part 2: Starting the squares

Joining your granny squares:

More help on joining squares is here.

Making up:

Jewel hat crochet beanie (100% crochet version)

How to make your crochet beanie: Set up:

Crown decreases:

Closing the crown.

Inspiration for this pattern

A little bit about the Jewel hat: A granny stitch beanie with a knit brim.

Materials for your granny stitch beanie.

Gauge:

Instructions for your granny stitch beanie hat:

Decreases:

Can a beginner make this crochet bag? Here’s a quick skill check:

Step 1: Granny squares (Make 8)

Border:

Assembly:

If you need to refresh your knowledge of crochet terms, I have a handy blog post here.

Skills required to make this simple crochet cardigan:

Yarn required to make this simple, lightweight crochet cardigan with mesh stitch.

The Pattern: Crochet Summer Lace Cardigan Pattern.

Glossary

Materials:

Lace pattern:

Panel (make 2)

Next section:

Mark for armholes:

Seam the side.

Sleeve

Assembly

How to make this elegant wrap:

Welcome autumn with this new crochet rectangular wrap: The Titania crochet shawl.

What is the difficulty level for this shawl pattern?

How big is this shawl?

What yarn did I use to make the Titania shawl?

If you can’t get this yarn, I can recommend some here that will work just as well for the silkiness and the drape:

Other yarn ideas for the Titania crochet shawl pattern.

See below for the full crochet shawl pattern.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Please use my handy US/UK crochet terms guide if you’re unsure of anything.

Glossary

Materials:

Gauge

Finished measurements when blocked

Notes:

Instructions

Finishing

V stitch crochet

About the yarn

Glossary of crochet stitches

US terms are used throughout this pattern. If you need a reminder, you can use my crochet terms guide here.

Measurements

Materials:

Gauge:

V stitch rounds

Split for front/back

Back (worked flat)

Back neck shaping

Left front shaping:

Neck shaping

Right front shaping

Join shoulder seams

Collar

Vest- armholes

Sleeves:

Cuff

Finishing

Glossary:

Yarn used to create the Betwixt crochet cowl

The idea behind the design of this cowl pattern

Betwixt Cowl: Crochet Pattern

Betwixt cowl

Gauge:

Instructions:
Back