Category: Free Knitting Patterns

Free knitting patterns. Find easy knitting patterns for shawls, socks, hats and more. Knitting designs by Hanna Gough.

Flock socks knitting pattern. Cuff down sock knitting pattern.
The Flock Socks sock knitting pattern.
This design features a ‘flock’ of birds or butterflies: you decide! This blog post is for a free sock knitting pattern showing you how to make these cuff down socks. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF, you can get it on Ravelry here.
The flock socks are a fun way to make the most of texture with some simple stitch repeats. This sample is knit in a 100% hardy wool yarn but you could use a sock yarn with nylon for extra durability if you’d prefer. They are socks knit from the cuff down with a square, integrated heel, some short row shaping and a grafted toe.
The socks feature a square (Dutch heel) that is split into 3 after some increases and decreased back down to create a sturdy, rectangular shape under the heel.
You can see a quick video of how the heel is made here:

A note about the yarn:
I used Eden Cottage Yarns Oakworth 4ply. This isn’t strictly a ‘sock yarn’ but the wool is crisp and durable. I haven’t had to darn any heels or toes yet! If you like a sock made with natural, breathable fibres that will also keep your feet warm, try it! I used their special Christmas colourway (it was limited edition, so they don’t currently have it) but there are so many other beautiful shades available.
Materials required for this sock knitting pattern:
- 100g of 4ply sock yarn such as Oakworth 4ply, (100% Polwarth wool) by Eden Cottage Yarns (400m/436yds per 100g/3.5oz)
- Darning needle
- 4 Stitch markers
- 2.5mm circular (80cm cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.
Gauge:
30 sts and 35 rows in pattern per 10cm (4”)
Leg/foot circumference:
Size 1: 7 in/17cm
Size 2: 8 in/20cm
Size 3: 9 in/23cm
Glossary:
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
Ktog: Knit all the strands together with one stitch.
LH: Left hand
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch.
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front.
Sl: Slip a stitch from left hand needle to right hand needle.
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together.
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
RH: Right hand
RS: Right side
SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO.
SM: Slip marker
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side
How to knit the Flock Socks.
Start your Flock socks by casting on at the cuff
Loosely cast on 50 (60 70) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts..
Work in 1×1 rib for 2.5cm/1 in.
Knit the leg
Place a marker (marker 1) after the first 25 (30, 35) sts to establish halfway point.
K all sts for 1 round.
Round 2, 4, 6: *K5, Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * to end.
Round 1, 3, 5, 9, 11: K all sts.
Round 7: *K7, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2; repeat from * to end.
Round 8, 10, 12: *Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front, K5; repeat from * to end.
Round 13: *K2, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2, K5; repeat from * to end.
These 13 rounds form the flock pattern. Repeat Rounds 1-13 until piece measures 19 (20, 21)cm/7.5 (7.75, 8.25) in from cast on, ending with a 7th or 13th round.
Shape the heel

Heel increases are worked on every K round. Heel sts (underside) stay in K st after this point, with flock pattern continuing along instep sts.
In this next section, the stitch counts on the heel needle require increasing to whole numbers for size 1 and 3.
Round 1:
Size 1: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K24, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. Work in flock pattern to end. There are now 26 sts between markers 2 and 3.
Size 2: M1R, PM (marker 2), K30, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 2 sts increased. Work flock pattern to end.
Size 3: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K34, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. There are now 36 sts between markers 2 and 3. Work in flock pattern to end.
53 (62, 73) sts total.
Round 2:
K all stitches on heel needle(s), work flock pattern on instep, slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3:
K to marker 2, M1R. SM, K to marker 3, SM, M1L, K to marker 1, SM, work flock pattern to end.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 18 (20, 24) stitches on the heel needle(s). 44 (50, 60) sts on heel needle(s). 69 (80, 95) sts total.
Turn the heel of your sock:
Working only with the first 44 (50, 60) sts, continue as follows:
- Short row 1: (RS) K9 (10,12) to marker, SM, K 17 (19,19) sts, S1, K1 PSSO. 1 st decreased. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.
- Short row 2: (WS) P 8 (9, 10) sts, P2tog. 1 st decreased. Turn.
- Short row 3: (RS) Sl 1 knitwise, K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed. SKP. Turn.
- Short row 4: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise, P until 1 stitch before gap. P2tog. Turn.
Size 1: On last P row, P3tog at the end. 26 sts.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 until there are 26 (30, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be right side facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 51 (60, 71) sts total.
Set up in the round:
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to RH needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L, but slip the twisted stitch onto LH needle and K2tog. SM, work flock pattern to end.
Size 3: Increase 1 st on sole of foot sts on next round. 72 sts total.
Knitting the foot:
Continuing in flock pattern for instep stitches, and K all sts on sole of foot, until piece measures 3.5 (5, 6)cm/1.5 (2, 2.25)in less than desired length, ending with a 7th or 13th round of flock pattern.
On last round:
Size 1: Increase 1 st after halfway marker (marker 1). There are now 26 sts between markers.
Size 3: move halfway marker (marker 1) one stitch to the left so there are 36 sts between markers.
Finishing at the toe of the sock.
Round 1: *SKP, K 22 (26, 32) K2tog; repeat from * to end. (4 sts decreased in total)
Round 2: K all sts.
Round 3: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 2 and 3 until you have 36 (42, 52) sts in total.
THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1.
Finishing:
Using kitchener method, graft the remaining stitches together to close the toe. Weave in ends. Click here to see the step by step photo tutorial for this.
Check out some of my other sock knitting patterns:
Simple cuff down DK socks.
Andalusian stitch socks.
Basic 4ply sock pattern.
July 10, 2025

The Jewel Hat: Crochet Granny Stitch Beanie With A Knit Brim.

The Jewel hat is a crochet granny stitch beanie with a stretchy knit brim. If you don’t knit at all, there’s a crochet only version of this hat here. If you’d like to try this version, you can find the pattern below. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF it is also available on Ravelry here.

This blog post contains affiliate links, meaning that any purchases made result in a small commission for me, at no cost to you.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you need a quick reference guide, there is one here.

US and UK crochet terms for beginners. Crochet explained.

Inspiration for this pattern

I love crochet just as much as I love knitting, and I thought it would be fun to combine the two in a single design. You can crochet rib to look just like knitting, but it is quite bulky, uses a lot of yarn, and it just doesn’t stretch as far as a knitted rib does. Because of this, I felt that a hat that combined knitting and crochet in this way would be really fun to make, and quick!

This hat is perfect for emergency hats, or gift knitting. You can whip one up in a couple of hours once you’ve knitted the brim. I love it. All of my kids have a Jewel hat, as do I! I hope you’ll love it too. It comes in several sizes so everyone in the family can have their own.

I used Cygnet Boho Spirit for my sample (main image) which originally used to say that it was DK on the label, but it sits somewhere in between DK and Aran.

We all appreciate how cute and quick the granny stitch is, so here’s a hat that offers the best of this stitch.

A little bit about the Jewel hat: A granny stitch beanie with a knit brim.

The jewel hat is a cute, quick stash busting hat with a knitted rib brim and a crochet body. Sizes included are 12 months to adult large. The crochet stitches work wonderfully with variegated yarn and create clusters of jewel-like shapes but you can use any yarn you like.

The measurements given are for a slightly slouchy beanie. If you would prefer a more exaggerated slouch, go ahead and add to the length of the body before decreasing.

Sample shown in size 2 using Manos silk blend DK in Jamboree. This yarn seems to be discontinued, but Malabrigo has a suitable alternative here if you want a silk/merino singly ply.

Materials for your granny stitch beanie.

Worsted/light worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit. Sample 1 uses Manos Del Uruguay silk blend DK in colourway Jamboree. Sample 2 uses Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic. See table for yarn requirements.
3.75mm needles, either DPN or 80cm circular for magic loop.
4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge:

Knit brim: 1×1 rib 6 sts per 1in 2.5cm
Crochet body: 7 rounds and 6 stitches per 10cm/4in using 4.5mm crochet hook.

Size	To fit head	Yarn weight	Meterage/Yardage
1: 12m-3y	48cm/19in	50g/1.76oz	135m/148yd
2: 3-10years	51cm/20in	75g/2.7oz	200m/219yd
3: Small adult	53cm/21in	100g/3.5oz	270m/295yd
4: Medium adult	55cm/22in	125g/4.4oz	303m/332yd
5: Large adult	60cm/24in	150g/5.3oz	337m/368yd

All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated.

Glossary:

Ch 2: Make two chains.

Ch space: The ‘gap’ or space made by a chain. It is located below the chain.

DC: Double Crochet (US) known as Treble crochet in UK.

Dc cluster: Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

K1 P1 Rib: Knit one stitch, purl one stitch. Repeat to end.

Sl st: Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch.

Simple knit beanie with a crochet body. Granny stitch hat pattern free. Granny stitch crochet toque free pattern. Patterns that combine knitting and crochet.

Instructions for your granny stitch beanie hat:

Using knitting needles, cast on 90 (96, 102, 108, 120) sts

Taking care not to twist stitches, join to work in the round and work 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) rounds in K1 P1 rib or to desired length.

Cast off in rib.

Using a 4.5mm crochet hook and the working yarn, insert hook into first stitch. Dc cluster. Chain 2 and sk 2 stitches. Repeat to end. Join with first Dc cluster using sl st.

30 (32,34,36,40) Dc clusters

Sl stitch across first Dc cluster. *Dc cluster in ch space, ch 2.*

Repeat until hat body measures 12cm/5in (14cm/5.5in, 15.5cm/6in, 16.5cm/6.5in, 17.5cm/7in) from cast on edge.

Decreases:

Start next round in same way as previous rounds. This time, instead of Dc cluster in next ch space, skip one ch space and Dc cluster in every other ch space.

Next round *Dc cluster,, ch 2* repeat * to end.

Work these last 2 rounds until 4,4,4,2,2,2 Dc clusters remain. Ch2 and sl st into nearest cluster or seam up with a darning needle to close hat. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional: Attach pom pom.

Top tip: Try the hat on before decreasing to see how you like the fit. Need more slouch? Work another 2 rounds.

Crochet beanie with a knit brim. /. Granny stitch beanie hat pattern free. Cygnet Boho Spirit Yarn pattern ideas. Easy crochet projects for knitters.

Sample 2 photographed using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic.

Full video tutorial for this beanie hat pattern is here:

July 6, 2025

How to knit an ear warmer. Simple garter stitch headband tutorial for beginners.
Beginner-friendly tutorial showing you how to knit an ear warmer. This really simple design is also perfect for knitters looking to get through their stash.
Need a quick gift for a friend? Knit an ear warmer!
Need to practice casting on and casting off, but you don’t want to knit something tedious like a long scarf? Knit an ear warmer!
Do you just want a quick, satisfying project? Knit an ear warmer.
You get my point. In this tutorial I will talk you through how to cast on, knit garter stitch and cast off.
What you’ll need for this project:
- Aran weight yarn. I used Kiddies Supersoft Aran in Blush. You will need approx. 50g of yarn no matter which brand you choose.
- 5mm needles. In the tutorial, I’ve used 5mm circular needles (short, straight needles with a cord connecting them) but any needles are fine. Most beginners use straight needles.
- Scissors, for cutting your yarn at the end.
How to knit an ear warmer:
This is a beginner pattern, meaning anybody who knows how to cast on and knit can make this item.
Help! I don’t know how to do these things.
Here’s a video showing you how to cast on. I use a cast on called the backwards loop method. This is the method that I was taught. If you don’t like this style of cast on, there are many others that you can try before you settle on what feels comfortable for you.

Written instructions for this cast on:
- Take the tail end between your thumb and forefinger in your right hand.
- With your left hand, take the working yarn between your thumb and forefinger.
- Drape the yarn over the top of your next three fingers and round again so that the yarn just overlaps slightly.
- Turn your hand towards you.
- With your other hand (keep hold of the tail end), insert your knitting needle into the loop that is sitting across the top of your three fingers.
- Pull the working yarn to tighten the loop over the needle.
- Repeat to end.
Here’s how to knit the garter stitch. The garter stitch is the one we use to knit this ear warmer.
- Cast on the desired amount of stitches. In this video I have cast on 18 stitches.
- Insert the right hand needle into the front of the first stitch (it looks like a loop at this point) on the left hand needle.
- Take the working yarn and wrap it around the back of the right hand needle and bring it down towards you so that it will sit between the left hand and right hand needle.
- Insert your right hand needle back into the stitch and pull the stitch over the tip of the left hand needle onto the right hand needle.
- Repeat to end.
How to cast off:

Written instructions for cast off:
Casting off is pretty straightforward as long as you bear this in mind: If your tension is too tight when you cast off, you need to use a needle that is at least 0.5mm thicker. If your tension is too loose, use a smaller needle.
Instructions:
- Knit 2 stitches.
- Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
- Knit 1 stitch from the left hand needle. 2 needles remain on the right hand needle.
- Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
- Repeat step 3 and 4 to end.
Now that you’ve learned how to cast on, knit and cast off, here is the pattern for you to follow!
Knit an ear warmer:
Cast on 18 sts
Knit every row until piece measures 4 inches (10cm) less than your head width:
- If your head measures 21 inches, Knit to 17 inches.
- If your heard measures 22 inches, Knit to 18 inches.
- If our head measures 23 inches, Knit to 19 inches.
Cast off.
Placing right sides together, fold the piece in half lengthways and then pinch each end so that they’re halved widthways. Slot the folded pieces together to create 4 layers and an S shape. Sew up all 4 layers together.
Cut yarn and fasten off. Turn right side out and admire your handiwork.
See the full video below to see a demonstration of the pinched twist and the finishing.
July 6, 2025
Hatchmere Hat Knitting Pattern. Cable knit hat free pattern.
Cable knit hat and mitts pattern. This pattern is free, but if you’d prefer the ad-free PDF, you can get it here or on Ravelry.
The Hatchmere cable knit beanie hat and fingerless mitts are a really simple introduction to cable knitting. There is also a matching cowl you can try.
On the edge of Delamere Forest, just behind the welcoming Carrier’s Inn, sits Hatchmere Lake. The captivating view from the Inn was obscured for years by high reeds & brambles, but is now cleared & a very pleasant sight.
The simple cable stitches of the Hatchmere Hat & Mitts complementary set reflect the comings & goings of the Lake’s birdlife & the little prints & ripples they leave behind
This hat and mitts set uses 2 skeins of Bowland DK in Dianthus. It’s a super soft, strong, buttery yarn made from the finest Bluefaced Leicester wool.
Cable Stitch Pattern
Worked over 9 sts:
Round 1: P1, K7, P1.
Round 2: P1, RC3, K1, LC3, P1.
The cable pattern will alternate in sync with the rnds e.g. Round 1 for the hat is the same as Round 1 of the cable pattern.
Glossary
CN- Cable needle
CO- Cast on
DPNs- Double pointed needles
Inc- Increase
K- Knit
LC- Left cable.
M1- Make 1. Knit into the front of the stitch, yarn over and knit into the back of the same stitch.
P- Purl
Rem- Remaining
RC- Right cable
RC3 (Right cable 3)- Sl next 2 sts onto CN and hold at back of work. K next st from LH needle then K2 from CN.
LC3 (Left cable 3)- Sl next st onto CN, hold at the front of the work. K next 2 sts from LH needle, then K from CN.
PM- Place marker
Rnd(s)- Round(s)
Sl- Slip
SM- Slip marker
Sts- Stitch(es)
What you’ll need to make this cable knit hat.
Materials:
- 60/80/100g/2/3/3.5oz of DK yarn such as Bowland DK by Eden cottage yarns 100% British Bluefaced Leicester wool in colourway Dianthus. 225m / 246yd per 100g / 3.5oz
- 4mm / US 6 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method, or size needed to obtain gauge.
- 3.75mm / US 5 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method.
Notions
Cable needle.
Darning needle.
Optional: Pom pom maker.
Gauge
28 sts and 32 rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm on 4mm / US 6 needles in cable pattern.
Hat will fit head size:
- Small: 54cm / 21in
- Medium:58cm / 22.5in
- Large: 62cm / 24in
Cable Stitch Pattern
Worked over 9 sts:
Round 1: P1, K7, P1.
Round 2: P1, RC3, K1, LC3, P1.
The cable pattern will alternate in sync with the rnds e.g. Rnd 1 for the hat is the same as Rnd 1 of the cable pattern.
Note: There will be 14 sts for each repeat–5 K st and 9 cable sts.
How to make your Hatchmere cable knit hat. Start here:
With 3.75mm / US 5 needles, cast on 98 (112, 126) sts. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 1 x 1 rib for 14 rnds.
If using a row counter, after 14 ribbing rnds are complete, reset it to 0.
Switch to larger needles
Rnd 1: *K5, rnd 1 of cable pattern over next 9 sts; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Round 2: *K5, rnd 2 of cable pattern over next 9 sts; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Work rnd 1 and 2 until piece measures 15cm / 6in (17cm / 7in, 19cm / 8in) from cast on edge.
Crown shaping:
Taking care to follow the alternating cable pattern rounds:
Decrease rnd 1: *K1, K2tog, K2, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. (1 st decreased every st panel) 91 (112, 117) sts.
Decrease rnd 2: *K4, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Decrease rnd 3: *K1, K2tog, K1, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd. 84 (96, 108) sts.
Decrease rnd 4: *K3, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Decrease rnd 5: *K1, K2tog, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. 77 (88, 99) sts.
Decrease rnd 6: K2, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round.
Decrease rnd 7: *K2tog, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. 70 (80, 90) sts.
Decrease rnd 8: *K1, cable pattern* repeat to end.
Decrease rnd 9: Repeat rnd 8.
Finishing:
Cut yarn leaving at least 10cm / 4 in.
Thread the darning needle with the yarn tail, then pull the tail through all remaining sts. Pull tight to close the hole. Secure, weave in and fasten off.
Block hat to open out cable pattern.
Love your Hatchmere cable knit hat? If you’d like to complete the set, here are the instructions for matching cable knit mitts.
Mitts (make 2)
Materials
- 80g/3oz of DK yarn such as Bowland DK by Eden cottage yarns in colourway Dianthus. 225m/246yd per 100g/3.5oz
- 4mm / US 6 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method, or size needed to obtain gauge.
- 3.75mm / US 5 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method.
- Stitch holder (or spare yarn) for thumb of mitts.
- Cable needle.
- Darning needle.
- Stitch marker.
Gauge
28 sts and 32 rows = 10cm x 10cm / 4” x 4” on 4mm / US 6 needles in cable pattern.
Finished Measurements
Mitts will fit hand circumference of up to 20cm / 8in – 23cm / 9in
Finished size (unstretched): 18cm / 7in wide and 23cm / 9in long.
Right glove:
CO 40 sts using 3.75mm / US 5 needles. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in K1 P1 rib for 16 rnds.**
Switch to larger needles.
Rnd 1: K5, Rnd 1 of cable pattern, K to end.
Rnd 2: K5, Rnd 2 of cable pattern, K to end.
Following cable pattern, work 14 more repeats, (30 rnds in total).
Thumb gusset
Rnd 31: K5, next rnd of cable pattern, M1, K1, PM, M1, K to end. 42 sts.
Rnd 32: Work in established stitch pattern around, without increasing, knitting increased sts from previous round.
Rnd 33: Work in established stitch pattern to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, M1, work in established stitch pattern to end. 44 sts.
Repeat Rnds 32 and 33 until there are 50 sts.
Next row: Work next 30 sts in established pattern, without increasing, turn, leaving rem 20 sts unworked.
Cast on 2 sts beginning of next row, K11, turn.
Cast on 1 st at beginning of next row. ***K these 14 sts for 2cm (¾ in), then work 3 rnds of K1, P1 ribbing.
Cast off all sts loosely.
Rejoin yarn to unworked sts, inc 1 st and work to end of rnd. 40 sts.
Work in established stitch pattern for 13 more rnds, starting at Rnd 2 of cable pattern.
Switch to 3.75mm / US 5 needles and K1, P1 for 9 rnds.
Cast off in rib on larger needles.
Sew up thumb seam and gap at the bottom of thumb. Weave in all ends.
Left glove:
Work as for Right glove until **.
Rnd 1: K26, Rnd 1 of cable pattern, K to end.
Rnd 2: K26, Rnd 2 of cable pattern, K to end.
Following cable pattern, work 14 more repeats, (30 rnds in total).
Thumb gusset:
Rnd 31: K20, M1, K1, PM, M1, next rnd of cable pattern, K to end. 42 sts.
Rnd 32: Work in established stitch pattern around, without increasing, knitting increased sts from previous round.
Rnd 33: Work in established stitch pattern to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, M1, work in established stitch pattern to end. 44 sts.
Repeat Rnds 32 and 33 until there are 50 sts.
Next row: Work next 30 sts in established pattern, without increasing, turn, leaving rem 20 sts unworked.
Cast on 2 sts at beginning of next row, K11, turn.
Cast on 1 st at beginning of next row. Finish as for right glove from
Have you tried the matching Hatchmere Cowl?
July 4, 2025
Andalusian stitch socks. Free sock knitting pattern for a pair of simple, rib textured socks.
The Andalusian stitch is one of my favourite stitches. It’s elegant, detailed and this is without having to do anything particularly complicated. This is a simple knit and purl stitch, and even someone trying socks for the first time could do this pattern. This sock pattern comes in three sizes and covers most adult foot sizes. Please make sure you measure around your foot before proceeding. Socks have negative ease, meaning they may seem small but that’s because they need to stretch to stay in place!
Here’s a quick description of what the andalusian stitch actually is:
Rounds 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat from * to end.
This is the Andalusian stitch pattern.
The Andalusian stitch socks are a simple, detailed sock design that are perfect for intermediate knitters looking to experiment with more textured detail.
This pattern is available for free with ads, or, if preferred, you can get a handy PDF from Ko fi or Ravelry.
This article does contain affiliate links, meaning that if you decide to purchase via the links, I earn a small commission.
These are adult socks worked in the round from the cuff down. The textured Andalusian stitch pattern requires only knit and purl stitches to create a broken rib effect. I used a semi solid colour to emphasise the texture of both the sock and the heel. The heel is shaped using increases and decreases, and the toe is grafted together using the kitchener method.
For this sock pattern, I used High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway, and it costs around £20. As this was a hand dyed yarn, sometimes the exact match won’t be available. Here’s a list of suitable alternatives to suit your budget:
Other yarns to use for this pattern according to budget.
King Cole Footsie 4ply: This 4ply sock yarn comes in a limited colour palette but it is only £5.54 ($7.40USD) per ball. You get a whopping 430m per ball, too. It’s excellent value and as it’s a solid colour, you’ll be able to see the stitches clearly! King Cole Footsie 4ply is a 100% synthetic yarn (93% acrylic, 7% other), so if you’re not fussed on wool or can’t wear it, this sock yarn is a better choice.
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply: This yarn would work in a solid or self striping colourway. The yarn amount is the same and the gauge will be similar too. It’s not as ‘shiny’ as some hand dyed socks are, but the wool is still soft and incredibly comfortable. The crispness of the wool would ensure excellent stitch definition in this pattern particularly. I would recommend a colour like Poppy Seed, Pennyroyal or Fuchsia. Pennyroyal is pictured below.
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply costs between £7.50 and £9
Malabrigo Ultimate Sock: This 4ply yarn is at the more luxurious end of sock yarns. It’s 75% merino wool, so is very soft with that slight sheen. It is also hand dyed, so would look lovely with the texture of this sock pattern. It comes in a range of colours and is proced at or around £17.99, but one skein will do.
The colour shown below is Zinnias (658).
To make these socks, you will need to be familiar with the square heel. There’s a step by step photo tutorial here and a video below.

How to knit the Andalusian stitch socks.
Glossary
DPN: Double pointed needles
K: Knit
K1, P1 rib: Knit 1 stitch, purl one stitch
K2tog: Knit two stitches together
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch.
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front.
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
RS: Right side
SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO
SL: Slip stitch
SM: Slip marker
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side
Gauge
35 stitches and 52 rounds = 10cm/4in using 2.5mm (US 1.5) needles
Materials
- High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway.
- Darning needle
- 4 stitch markers
- 2.5mm (US 1.5) circular (80cm/32in cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.
if you don’t have any suitable needles yet, I have a handy blog post here about DPNs, and one about circular needles to help you choose.
Leg/foot circumference
Size 1: 6.5 in/16cm
Size 2: 7.5 in/18cm
Size 3: 8in/21cm
The Pattern
Cuff
Loosely cast on 56 (64 72) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 1×1 twisted rib for 2.5cm/1in.
Starting the leg of your andalusian stitch socks:
PM after the first 28 (32 36) sts to establish halfway point.
Rounds 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat from * to end.
This is the Andalusian stitch pattern.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until leg measures 18cm/7.25in from cast on.
Shaping your square (Dutch) sock heel.
When working the heel, continue in the Andalusian stitch pattern for the stitches after the halfway marker. The heel and the underside of foot will be in knit stitch from now on.
Round 1:
M1R, PM (marker 2) and K 28 (32, 36) stitches, PM (marker 3) and M1L, SM (marker 1). Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round.
Round 2:
K to halfway marker, Andalusian st pattern to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rnd 3:
K to marker 2, M1R, SM, K 28 (32, 36) sts, SM and M1L, SM. Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 20 (22, 24) sts.
Turning the heel of your sock:
Working only with the first 48 (54, 60) sts continue as follows:
Short row 1: (RS) K to marker, SM, K 17 (20, 23) sts, SL1, K1 PSSO. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.
Short row 2: (WS) P 7 (9, 11) sts, P2tog. Turn.
Short row 3: (RS) K to 1 st before the gap which has formed, SKP. Turn.
Short row 4: (WS) P until 1 st before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until there are 28 (32, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be RS facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 56 (64, 72) sts in total.
Set up in the round:
Rnd 1:
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, SL the twisted st on to right hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left hand needle and K2tog. SM, K to end.
Foot:
K to halfway marker, Andalusian pattern to end of round until foot measures 2.5cm/1in less than desired length.
Toe
Rnd 1: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from to end. (4 sts decreased in total)
Rnd 2: K to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 36 (36, 40) sts in total.
THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1.
Finishing
Using kitchener method, graft the remaining sts together to close the toe. Weave in ends.
Thanks for using my andalusian stitch sock knitting pattern. Did you make a pair? Let me know in the comments. If you’d like, you can send me a photo of the socks and I’ll post them in the projects gallery here!
June 17, 2025
Simple cuff-down sock knitting pattern. Sock knitting for beginners.
This is a free sock knitting pattern for simple, cuff down socks with a square heel and shaped toe. This sock knitting pattern was designed by Hanna Gough in 2020, and it remains one of the most popular patterns for knitting socks with 4ply yarn.
If you’d prefer an ad-free PDF of this pattern, you can find one here.
This sock pattern is perfect for beginners who want to knit their first pair of socks in the round. You will need to be able to:
- Knit in the round.
- Decrease and increase stitches.
- Graft sock toes.
If you’re not yet feeling confident with knitting in the round I do have a flat knit sock pattern here. Everyone can enjoy knitting socks!
This is one of my best-known sock knitting patterns, and is perfect for those of you who know how to knit, but want to try knitting socks in the round. Knit your first pair of socks with this simple Basic 4ply Socks pattern and photo tutorial. I also have some helpful videos on youtube to help you understand the major points in the pattern such as casting on, shaping the heel and turning the heel.

Scroll down to find my simple, cuff down beginner sock knitting pattern. It’s free to read, but if you’d prefer a handy PDF, there’s one here.
This article contains some affiliate links. This means that if you choose to buy anything I have recommended here, I do earn a small commission.
For this sock knitting pattern, I recommend needles such as addi aluminium DPNs , Knitpro or addi circular needles for knitting in the round.
How to use this sock knitting pattern.
Read through the pattern first, and then look at the glossary. When you’ve had a read through the pattern and understand what you will need and what skills are required, begin. Consult the pattern as often as you need to and take your time! Your socks will take as long as they take. Just enjoy the process.
You will need:
100g of 4ply sock yarn (400m per 100g) such as WYS signature 4ply (main photo is Bright Side)
Darning needle
4 Stitch markers
2.5mm circular (80cm cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.
Gauge:
35 sts / 10cm (4”)
A note on construction
You can knit these socks using DPNs or circulars. I have written the pattern with circulars in mind. If you need a bit more help when it comes to choosing needles, and want to know how to knit with double pointed needles, I have a helpful post here. If you want to know how to knit with magic loop, I have post here.
Leg/foot circumference:
Size 1: 7 in/17cm
Size 2: 8 in/20cm
Size 3: 9 in/23cm
Cuff
Loosely cast on 56 (64 72) sts, join to work in the round.
Work in 1×1 twisted rib for 2 in/5cm
Leg
Place a marker after the first 28 (32 36) sts to establish halfway point. K all rounds until piece measures 7.25” 18cm from cast on.
Heel
Rnd 1:
M1R, PM (marker 2) and knit 28 (32, 36) stitches, PM (marker 3) and M1L. SM (marker 1). K to end of round.
Rnd 2:
K all stitches in round slipping markers as you come to them.
Rnd 3:
K to marker 2 , M1R, SM, K 28 (32, 36) sts, SM and M1L. SM. K 28 (32, 36) sts to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 20 (22, 24) stitches.
Turn heel:
Working only with the first 48 (54, 60) sts cont as follows:
Short row 1: (RS) K to marker, SM, K 17 (20, 23) sts, S1, K1 PSSO. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn the work around.
Short row 2: (WS) P 7 (9, 11) sts, P2tog. Turn.
Short row 3: (RS) K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed. SKP. Turn.
Short row 4: (WS) P until 1 stitch before gap. P2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 28 (32,36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be right side facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 56 (64, 72) sts in total.
Set up in the round:
Rnd 1:
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to right hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left hand needle and K2tog. SM, K to end.
Foot:
K all rounds until foot measures 1 in/2.5cm less than desired length.
Toe
Rnd 1: *SKP, K 26 (28, 34) ( K2tog* Repeat* until end of round. (4 sts decreased in total)
Rnd 2:: K to end of round.
Rnd 3: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog* repeat to end.
Repeat round 1 and 2 until you have 36 (36, 40) sts in total.
THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1.
Finishing:
Using kitchener method, graft the remaining stitches together to close the toe. Weave in ends.
Glossary:
K1 P1 twisted rib: Knit through the back loop, purl as normal.
BOR: Beginning of round.
PM: Place Marker
SM: Slip marker.
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front.
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch.
SL: Slip stitch
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
P2tog: Purl two stitches together.
SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO.
K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
Other sock knitting patterns to try.
Andalusian stitch socks.
The Flock socks.
Thank you for reading this sock knitting pattern. If you’ve made a pair, why not share a photo in the comments? Let others know what yarn you used and start the discussion! Sock knitting brings lots of people together and can be really handy when you want a quick, satisfying project but don’t have a lot of time.
June 16, 2025
Sock knitting with two straight needles. Can you knit socks flat?
Wondering how to knit socks on straight needles? Try this two needle flat sock pattern. You can have all the glamour of 4ply socks without the worry of extra needles.
This article about knitting socks on straight needles contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy, I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Despite there being thousands of socks knit in the round. there is still strong demand for the flat knit sock pattern. This method is perfect for those of us who prefer knitting with two straight needles but want to try socks.
When I proposed the idea of designing one last spring, it was met with some scepticism. Why would anyone want to knit flat when you can knit with socks in the round? Where will the seam go? Will it be comfortable? It will be too much hassle with a toe seam, a heel seam or a side seam.
I managed to solve all of these potential issues. It is now my bestseller. There is good reason for it; not everybody wants to knit in the round. As a designer, I have always believed that design should solve problems as well as appeal to needs. If you prefer two sticks to four sticks, that’s absolutely fine. In fact, I am so happy with offering choice that I am working on my first two needle sock knitting ebook this year.
Every now and then I see enquiries pop up in Facebook knitting groups along the lines of ‘where can I find a 2 needle sock pattern?’.
Here! You can find one here!.
What’s so special about my best selling flat knit sock pattern? A few things!
- They are made using 4ply sock yarn.
- They are cuff down.
- They are worked flat the whole way- even the heel.
- There is no heel seam to put on a stitch holder.
- There is no toe seam to put on a stitch holder.
- There is no side seam either.
What? How does this even work?
You knit from the cuff to the heel, increase for the heel, work some short rows (don’t be scared, it’s easier than it seems), knit to the toe, do some more decreases, and seam up the front.
The true difficulty depends on your seaming skills to be honest. If you choose a solid colour, you can hide the seam easier than striped, but that shouldn’t matter. It’s a sock. It will be worn under trousers and shoes. Also, in my experience people don’t tend to inspect my knitwear.
Need help choosing sock yarns?
Here I’ll recommend my favourite sock knitting yarns and tell you a bit about them:
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply Sock Yarn.
It doesn’t get any better than this, sorry. West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply is such a straightforward, everyday sock yarn. It’s perfect because it’s a blend of British wool and some nylon for strength. I’ve used it for most of my sock designs, and have quite a bit in my stash. Other reasons why it’s great include:
- It comes in a 100g ball. Perfect for a pair of adult socks.
- It comes in a huge range of colours.
- The yarn smells deliciously sheepy (if you know, you know.)
- It comes in self-striping as well as solid or marl.
I’ve even used WYS Signature 4ply in my sock knitting patterns. You can find my basic cuff-down sock knitting pattern by clicking the image below.
June 16, 2025
Easy 2 needle flat knit socks pattern
Do you love the idea of cosy, hand-knit socks but dread the complicated process of using four or five double-pointed needles? Knitting socks can be intimidating for even the most experienced knitter. If you’re looking for something that will build your confidence, look no further!
In this article, we will explore the method of knitting socks flat on just two straight needles. Yes, you read that right – no circular needles or DPNs required! Whether you are a beginner knitter or an experienced one looking for a new challenge, this method will revolutionise your sock-making game. Say goodbye to pesky stitches falling off the needles and hello to a simpler, more manageable knitting experience. Get ready to dive into the world of flat-knit socks and discover the endless possibilities.
This simple two needle flat knit socks pattern is a straightforward, simple way to learn the basic construction of a sock. Many knitters are hesitant to try socks on double pointed or circular needles, so I designed this pattern as a confidence builder. This pattern also covers the square heel, which is my favourite type of sock heel: The Square heel. Here’s a video showing you how to knit this heel:

This is a free pattern for two needle socks knit flat. You can either use the blog pattern for free, or if you’d like, here’s the easy PDF for your own convenience.
Whether you are looking to try a different construction for socks or you simply prefer knitting flat, these socks are for you. No side, toe or heel seams are required; just one simple seam up the front of the sock. The heel is worked using short rows and the toe consists of a drawstring finish.
Materials required to make these flat knit socks:
60g (70g, 90g) of 4ply sock yarn.
Yarn used in socks pictured is Gamer Crafting Sock 4-ply [75% Merino, 25% Nylon, 400m per 100g] in ‘Pride Was A Riot’.
2mm and 2.5mm needles (or size needed to obtain gauge) for working flat.
4 stitch markers.
Darning needle.
Gauge:
32 sts and 38 rows to 10cm/4 inches in stocking stitch on larger needles.
Finished Foot/Leg Circumference:
Size 1: 17.5cm/7 inches
Size 2: 20cm/8 inches
Size 3: 22.5cm/9 inches
Sample shown in size 2.
Length of leg from cuff to heel is 24cm/9.5 inches.
Foot length from back of heel to toe is 24cm/9.5 inches.
Glossary:
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit two stitches together. (1 stitch decreased)
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back. (1 stitch increased)
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front. (1 stitch increased)
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together. (1 stitch decreased)
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over
RS: Right side of work
SKP: Slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch. (1 stitch decreased)
SM: Slip marker
SSK: Slip two stitches separately knitwise to right-hand needle, knit them together through the front of the stitches. (1 stitch decreased)
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side of work
Cast on your flat knit socks.
Leg
With smaller needles, cast on 56 (64, 72) sts.
Rib row: [K1, P1] to end of row.
Repeat Rib row to work 1×1 rib until cuff measures 5cm/2 in, ending after a WS row.
Switch to larger needles.
Work stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until leg measures 18.5cm/7.25 in from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Next, it’s time to shape the heel. Pay close attention to this part because if you don’t have the right amount of stitches, your heel won’t sit right.
RS: K14 (16, 18), PM (marker 1), M1R, PM (marker 2), K28 (32, 36), PM (marker 3), M1L, PM (marker 4), K to end.
WS: P all sts.
RS: K to marker 1, SM, K to marker 2, M1R, SM, K to marker 3, SM, M1L, K to marker 4, SM, Knit to end.
WS: P all sts.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (9, 10) times, until you have increased 10 (11, 12) sts on either side of the heel markers, ending after a WS row. 76 (86, 96) sts in total.
Now, turn the heel with short rows. See the video above if you’re still unsure about this part.
RS: K to marker 1, SM, K to marker 2, SM, K17 (20, 23), SKP. Turn work.
WS: P7 (9, 11), P2tog. Turn.
RS: K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed, SKP. Turn.
WS: P to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (9, 10) times, until there are 28 (32, 36) heel sts between markers 1 and 4, ending after a WS row. This is the number of heel stitches you started with; your work will be RS facing with marker 2 on your right-hand needle.
Knitting the foot of your flat knit sock.
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to right-hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left-hand needle and K2tog. K to marker 4, SM, K to end.
You can remove markers 1 and 4 while you work the foot; you will need them again when you reach the toe.
Work rest of foot in stocking stitch until it measures 5 (6, 6.5)cm/2 (2.25, 2.5) in less than desired length.
It’s time to shape the toe of your sock.
RS: K12 (14, 18), SSK, PM, K2tog, K22 (28, 28), SSK, PM, K2tog, K to end. (4 sts decreased)
WS: P all sts.
RS: K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, SM, K2tog, K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, SM, K2tog, K to end.
(4 sts decreased)
WS: P all sts.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (10, 11) times, until there are 16 (16, 20) sts in total.
Finishing your sock
Cut a long tail of yarn and, with a darning needle, thread tail through remaining sts and pull tight to close. Then, using mattress stitch, seam up the front of the sock. Weave in yarn ends.
I hope you enjoy your new, flat knit socks. Let me know how you get on in the comments.
Feeling confident?
You can stay here if you’re feeling happy with your flat knit socks. However, there is the option to progress to knitting in the round! I have a pattern for an adult size sock or a smaller, novelty sock that can also be used for babies. If you’d like to try, you can have a go at knitting socks in the round.

In conclusion, knitting socks flat on two needles may seem intimidating at first, but with the right techniques and practice, anyone can master this traditional method. We have explored the benefits of knitting socks flat, including the ability to customize and adjust sizing, as well as the convenience of not needing double-pointed needles. By following the step-by-step instructions and tips shared in this article, you can create a comfortable and stylish pair of socks that will keep your feet warm and cozy. As writer Elizabeth Zimmermann once said, “Knit on with confidence and hope, through all crises.” So go ahead and give it a try, and see the magic of knitting unfold right before your eyes. Keep learning and experimenting, and embrace the joy of creating something unique and handmade. Happy knitting!
January 12, 2025