Germander Cottage Crafts | Knitting Patterns | Crochet Patterns | Tutorials

Category: Tutorials

Knitting and crochet tutorials. Learn to crochet and knit easily with these step by step knitting and crochet tutorials.

Gauge and tension in knitting and crochet. Gauge explained.
Gauge, also known as ‘tension’ is the measurement of stitches to rows or rounds. Gauge is important and here’s why you need to check it.
This is important for several reasons but checking gauge can:
- Ensure you are using a suitable size hook or needle.
- Ensure that you will have the right amount of yarn.
- Help you understand how the yarn behaves.
- Helps you to work out whether the item will fit/be the right size.
It’s not just a hoop to jump through. If you are making a garment and have gone to all the trouble of spending your money on 6-8 balls of good yarn, why skip this part? What if you cast off and it doesn’t and will never fit you?
Common anti-gauge statements:
1. “I just accept the mistakes”
This is baffling to me, personally, because if a mistake could be avoided early on, I would take the chance. The gauge swatch is your crystal ball. It shows you how things will work out in the future!
We will all make mistakes when the project gets going. We could drop a stitch, accidentally repeat a row or skip a step but to willingly risk a mistake? Don’t do that.
2. “You don’t need to check gauge for shawls”
That’s interesting. Will you not run out of yarn if your tension is much tighter than the gauge stated on the pattern? I would think so. Best to check and be sure.
3. “It’s a waste of my time and yarn”
You could perceive it that way but the tension square can be unravelled and used for the main project. You don’t have to order 1 ball, do a tension square and then order the other 5. Just reuse the yarn!
Even if the yarn has been blocked, you can still unravel and use it again.
4. “I’ve used the exact yarn and hook recommended so it will be fine”
That’s very optimistic of you but tension varies from person to person and can be altered daily. Don’t take the risk. My favourite lines in a pattern include “Check tension to ensure success”. This all depends on you, not the materials or the tools.
How to I measure my tension?
To measure, take a measuring tape, ruler, or a square gauge (pictured) and measure across the stitches for 4 inches (10cm). Then measure the amount of rows per 4 inches (10cm).
In the above example, there are 5 v stitches and 6 rows per 10cm (4in) square.
All good patterns will give you desired measurements over a 10cm/4in square. What you should then do is knit or crochet that many stitches and that many rows and then measure it. Where does your swatch compare?
I have more stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too tight. If it is too tight, you will end up with the project being much smaller than it should be. The fabric could also be stiff and unflattering, depending on the item. What you need to do is increase the size of your tool by 0.5mm. Keep going up until you get the gauge that is correct.
If your work is coming out as tighter or smaller than it should be, you will likely run out of yarn before the project is finished.
I have fewer stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too loose. If you’re making a garment, it will be too big! The stitches will look loose with lots of loops visible. What you need to do is go down a needle or hook size to match. Start by going down in increments of 0.5mm. You may need to make a few swatches to find your tension but it will be worth it in the end.
If your work is too loose, you will likely have yarn left over at the end of the project.
I have more or fewer rows than recommended, but my stitch count is perfect. What do I do?
In this scenario, you have a few choices. You can either:
- Change needle type ie switch from aluminium to bamboo. This can affect the height of the stitches.
- Change yarn type. It could be too thin or too thick. Have a look at wraps per inch as opposed to yarn weight, as not all DK and Aran are the same thickness. To find out more about wpi, Eden cottage yarns has a helpful blog post here
- Block it. You could get to 4 inches without an extra row by blocking.
- Work to the measurements on the pattern. Instead of counting the rows, get your measuring tape out and stop when you’ve reached the measurements it is supposed to be e.g. “work until piece measures 30cm/12in).
Why you have to find your own tension
Don’t feel put off because you’re using a 10mm hook but the pattern says 6mm. This just means that you have really tight tension. Tension may ease (or tighten) with practise but working with your individual tension level is absolutely fine.
Think of the tension square as the cat flap. This cat flap only accepts cats of a certain size. Gerbils can’t get in and neither can a husky. As long as you meet those dimensions needed, the cat can come through the cat flap. You can use whatever hook or needles you need to in order to do this. Using a 5mm needle for a 4mm sock pattern recommendation doesn’t mean you’re wrong. It means you need to give yourself more width to allow for your negative tension.
Do I need to block the swatch?
Many designers recommend blocking your swatch so that you can see how the yarn behaves. Some yarn blooms and other yarn shrinks, so block any natural (or part natural) fibres to see how they will behave. This is important because although your tension may be perfect with wool unblocked, blocking the garment could result in it becoming too big or too small.
In patterns the instructions for garments will say “block to measurements” so block the swatch too!
Blocking acrylic yarns is optional. If the listed materials in the pattern are acrylic, it may not have been blocked unless explicitly stated. If the listed materials include a natural fibre, it will have been blocked. Treat the swatch as it was intended.
June 14, 2025
Yarn weight and why it matters
How to measure your yarn’s thickness and match it with the required tension.
In this blog post I’m talking all things yarn weight and why it matters. Knitting or crocheting with whatever yarn you have to hand may be an option for you if you just want to make something without a pattern but that will not be the case for other things. Getting the yarn weight right is vital for success in knitting.
When you’re new to knitting or crochet, it may seem that simply using the yarn weight suggested on the ball band will be fine. Sometimes it will, but sometimes it won’t. Here’s a tutorial showing you how to measure yarns to make sure you’re using the best thickness for your individual tension and technique.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
If you’re knitting something with a pattern, it is very helpful to use the yarn weight suggested and here’s why:
- Thickness of yarn will affect the finished look.
- Meterage is usually lower the thicker the yarn meaning you may need more than you thought.
- The drape of the final fabric varies.
- The size of the finished project will vary.
- The needle or hook required may not match.
If you only have 4mm needles and want to use a chunky yarn, you’re going to end up with a really dense, stiff piece of fabric. That will not work if you’re wanting to wear it, for example.
Do I have to use exactly the same yarn as the pattern states?
No, you don’t. Every knitter has a budget unique to them and there is a lot of personal preference to fibre types anyway, so don’t ever feel that you have to use exactly the same yarn. Yarns come and go and get discontinued frequently (especially commercial yarns) so by the time you come to knitting from a pattern, it may not be available anyway!
You can read more about how to substitute yarn here.
Do I need to have more than one pair of needles?
Yes. I would tell every knitting beginner to invest in a needle range of 3mm-10mm (US3-US15) purely because you’ll come across a range of requirements. Even a DK cardigan or hat pattern that asks for 4mm needles will want you to also have some 3.25mm for the ribbing of the cuffs and button bands.
Have more than one pair of needles so that you can match them to the yarn you have. If someone has kindly sent you away with a bundle of gift yarn to help you get started, you’re going to need to anticipate the requirement for different needle sizes.
Needle sizes ensure that the gauge swatch is correct. This is also referred to as tension in knitting patterns.
How to do a gauge swatch
To do a gauge swatch, take the needles that are recommended by the pattern and take yarn in the size recommended by the pattern.
Knit at least the amount that the pattern states. Ideally, you should knit a few more stitches so that you’re measuring more than just the very outer edges of the square. If the tension is stated as “22 sts by 30 rows” I would cast on and knit 30 stitches and 35 rows just to make sure that I can measure it accurately with a standard knitting gauge ruler like this one here.
If you struggle to get an accurate gauge measurement from measuring with tape or a ruler, you can always use a knitting gauge such as this Knitpro one here.
Your swatch will probably curl up and misbehave at first. What some designers recommend is blocking the swatch to measurements. This is really handy for learning about how your yarn will behave when the item has been washed. You won’t notice much of a difference with synthetic yarns but I would certainly recommend this method for natural fibres or synthetics that are blended with natural fibres.
Your gauge swatch tells you a few things about your yarn weight:
1. It tells you whether you’re using the right needle size.
2. It tells you if you’re using a yarn thick or thin enough.
3. It shows you how much yarn you’ll eat up per inch.
4. It gives you an idea of how the finished item will look if you knit it in that yarn.
5. It gives you a chance to see how the yarn will behave after washing.
If your stitches and rows are off, there are some solutions here for you:
Problem one:
If you have more stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go up a needle size. You can start by going up by 0.5mm and work your way from there.
Problem two:
If you have fewer stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go down a needle size. As with the previous instruction, do this by 0.5mm increments.
Does it matter if my stitches are the right size?
Yes, it really does.
Your gauge swatch will tell you if what you’re making will actually fit you or be the size it is supposed to be. If you knit a toy rabbit in 6mm needles and chunky yarn but the pattern calls for 3.5mm needles and DK yarn, you’re going to end up with a much bigger rabbit that requires much more yarn!
To swatch or not to swatch?
Many knitters will say they don’t swatch and that they don’t mind if the finished item and that’s their choice but as a designer I can assure you that dp=oing a swatch saves so much time, hassle and questions. If you’re also a beginner, it’s another practice square before the big event!
In conclusion, you can’t just use any yarn weight unless you’ve got a really clever pattern that allows you to knit in any weight. These patterns will have several tensions in the pattern so the chances of you meeting at least one of them are high! This isn’t common practice though and won’t work for everything.
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June 14, 2025
Single Crochet Rib Tutorial
If you’re just learning to crochet, you may be surprised to see how many knit-like effects you can create with your crochet hook. Single crochet rib (also known as double crochet rib in UK terms) is a really quick and effective way to add rib detailing to your projects.
This article contains affiliate links. I receive a small commission from any purchases made using the links.
Crochet rib is a major detail in the Beyond cardigan and as part of this crochet along, I’m doing stitch tutorials to help you achieve your goals of making your first crochet cardigan!
The yarn I’ve used in this tutorial is Paintbox Wool Mix Aran in Bubblegum.
Why not check out these patterns to help you practice crochet rib even more:
Beyond cardigan pattern.
Betwixt Cowl Pattern
Lovechunk baby sweater.
Here are some step by step photos to help you.
Step 1:
Make your chain as instructed by the pattern. Here’s an example chain of 22.
Step 2:
Insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. That does not include the chain on the hook. Make a single crochet stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook.
Single crochet in every chain to end. 21 stitches.
Step 3:
Chain 1 and turn. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook but this time do it in the back loop only. Single crochet in every back loop to end.
Step 4:
Chain 1, turn and work a single crochet stitch into the back loop of every single crochet stitch to end.
Step 5:
Repeat step 4 until you have achieved the desired amount of rows.
Your crochet rib will look like this when you turn it from horizontal to vertical.
Found this tutorial helpful? Why not share it?
June 13, 2025
How to make T-shirt yarn. DIY T shirt yarn tutorial.
Here’s how to make your own t shirt yarn from fabrics you may want to recycle instead of throwing out.
I first decided to use up some t shirt yarn when my lovely dog accidentally walked some poo into the house, smeared it onto the sheepskin rug and then lay on it for extra measure. I was devastated as that was her favourite place to sleep but there was no way I was going to get the sheepskin clean again. I was also short of another £50-£100 for a new sheepskin rug so my only option was to crochet something with what I already had around the house.
I can’t be the only person with a long history of different dress sizes, varying tastes in clothing and a box full of old t shirts that were not good enough to sell or give to charity but were still useful. If they have holes in, seams falling apart or are faded and threadbare, they’re still really useful for making home decor.
I also asked my Dad to donate some t shirts that are now too big for him. He donated some XXL t shirts and it helped me to finish off my crochet rug in a way that a size 10 women’s t shirt or age 5 leggings could not.
It was such a fun project. It’s like magic. You take a t shirt, cut it in a very specific way, stretch the strips and wind them into a ball. I’ll show you how I did it:
Materials required:
- Good fabric scissors. You’ll get smoother edges this way and limited fraying. I used these Fiskars scissors.
- A t shirt or dress made of stretchy cotton jersey.
- A roll such as a wrapping paper tube (optional) or your arm.
- A flat surface to work on.
First take the T shirt and cut from one underarm to the other in a horizontal direction. This frees up a tube or rectangle and you can make some yarn with absolutely no knots.
Cut off the bottom seam or unpick it first and then use it as part of the rectangle.
You need to cut across the t shirt in 1-2in strips depending on how thick you want your yarn to be. I cut mine in 2.5cm/1in strips as I had a 10mm hook but if you are using finger crochet or want to use a bigger hook, by all means go for the larger strip. T shirt yarn is very forgiving so it doesn’t matter if your strips aren’t symmetrical.
You have to cut across from one end to the next but you do not cut the end instead, you cut to about 1inch from the side seam (or side if you don’t have side seams). Keep cutting from one edge to 1 in before the other. You will only cut one side completely.
Next, you need to drape the uncut edge of the tshirt across your arm or a tube such as a wrapping paper roll. This enables you to see the uncut fabric. You will then cut the first top strip on the right diagonal (left leaning). That will be the beginning of the yarn ball.
If you’re left handed, work from the left to right, cutting diagonally from the bottom left to the top right.
You then need to cut from the top of the bottom right strip diagonally so it matches up with the top right strip.
Keep cutting the left leaning diagonal strips until there’s one strip left. Cut that off completely just as you did with the first strip. That is the other end of the yarn.
Don’t worry if you make a mistake here and end up with smaller strips. Just tie them together. The knots can be hidden under stitches.
How to wind it into a ball
At this point you can give the strips a little stretch. This just gives you more mileage out of the yarn and evens it out as it folds over on itself like bias binding does.
Can I use the rest of the t shirt?
You can but you won’t get as much fabric as you did with the body and there will be knots. I’ll pop another blog post up soon to show you how to do that but if you’re happy with the yarn that you have, why not just use the top parts as cleaning rags? They’re much more eco friendly than microfibre cloths as they don’t release microplastics when washed.
Can I cut up other fabric?
Yes. I used some of my daughter’s holey leggings too. I checked to see what direction the fabric was stretching in and I had a choice between cutting across the leg horizontally (just like with the t shirt) or cutting up the leg lengthways into strips. The latter method does result in pieces that need tying together but you’re never going to get away with that.
I also used a stretchy maternity dress as t shirt yarn. I just used the exact same method as I did with the t shirt. It was jersey knit fabric so it works absolutely fine.
You can also cut up fabrics that are not stretchy but these will not be as forgiving to work with so you might want to use a larger hook.
Here’s how to cut up your yarn using the whole tshirt.
June 13, 2025
Free crochet stitch guide for beginners.
Want to learn to crochet but you’re not sure what the stitches are? Or maybe you’re not sure what stitch you should start with as a beginner. In this post I’ve shared my crochet stitch guide for absolute beginners. My students swear by this pattern. I hope it’ll be handy for you, too!
If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.
Think of this crochet stitch guide as the official quick reference companion for learning crochet. This works as a way to remind yourself of what stitches mean when you are working on a project. I also include the UK variations for the terms.
Inside:
- Single crochet
- Half double crochet
- Double crochet
- Triple crochet
- V stitch crochet
- Shell stitch crochet.
In this guide with clear colour photographs I explain how many chains you need as well as how to do each stitch. Please make sure you have a look at the photographs, or visit my youtube channel for more help.

Crochet stitches for beginners
The basics
This is an introductory guide to the main basic crochet stitches. If you’d like to see demonstrations, please subscribe to my youtube channel by clicking here.
Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)
Abbreviations: sc (US) dc (UK).
Single crochet is the smallest stitch you can do in crochet. It is commonly used in dishcloths, face scrubbies and amigurumi. The dense, short stitches are great for toys as the stuffing is less likely to leak out! Single crochet also works great for baskets as it provides a dense, sturdy fabric.
Directions:
Insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 1.
Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)
Abbreviations: Hdc (US) Htr (UK)
I really like half double crochet as it starts off as a double but ends as a single. It’s a tall enough stitch without all of the work.
Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through the 3 loops on the hook. Do this in every chain.
When you get to the end, chain 2 and turn.
Double crochet (UK Treble)
Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)
Abbreviations: Tr (US) (Dtr UK)
This is a very tall stitch (but not the tallest!) requiring a turning chain of 4 stitches.
Yarn over twice, insert hook. Yarn over and pull through a loop. *Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat * 2 more times.
When turning, always chain 4.
V stitch
Abbreviations: V st
V stitch is a crochet lace stitch. We create the vs by using double crochet and chains.
V stitch is made by working a multiple of 3 chains plus an additional 4 chains.
First row (after chaining)
Make a dc (UK Tr) into the 5th chain from hook. Chain 1 and make a second Dc (UK tr) into the same stitch. Skip the next 2 chains and and make another V into the next stitch. Continue until you only have 2 chains left. Skip one chain and make a single dc into the next chain.
Second row: Make a 3 ch turning chain, make a V into the centre of the last V you made. This is called the chain space. Chain 1 and do the same again in every V across. When you get to the end, make a single Dc (UK Tr) into the last chain. Repeat for every following row.
Shell stitch
Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.
Row 1: Single crochet (UK double) into the 2nd chain from the hook, skip the next 2 chains, and dc (UK tr) 5 times into the next chain, sk next 2 chains, sc into the next chain, sk 2, dc 5 times into the next chain. Repeat to end, where you should end with one sc.
Row 2: Chain 3 and turn. Dc 2 more times into the last sc of the previous row. *Make a sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell, then make 5 dc into the next sc*. Repeat * to end and make 3dc into the last sc.
Row 3: Ch 1 and sc into the first dc of the previous row, *dc 5 times into the next sc, sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell* repeat to end, ending with a sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 to end.
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June 11, 2025
How to stop your crochet from getting smaller.
Are you trying to crochet a flat piece and finding yourself baffled as to why it seems to be getting narrower? Maybe I can help. Here are 4 common reasons why your crochet seems to be getting smaller. Let me help you stop that from happening.
1. After the first row, check your stitch count.
This may seem like a really obvious one but you’d be amazed at how one missed stitch can go under the radar until it’s 30 rows too late. If you’re practising crochet for the first time, stick with 10-20 stitches at a time. This will help you to study your stitches without the exhaustion of having to rip back an entire jumper that is 4 inches too narrow. Trust me, these little stumbles in the early days will earn you all the skills.
2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.
You’d be surprised to hear how often this happens; people forget to make a turning chain. The reason the turning chain exists is to make the transition into the next row as smooth as possible. Not making a turning chain could result in a stitch at the end that is too short and causes the piece to slope inwards. You will then probably miss it when you’re working back across the row, leading to fewer overall stitches.
If you’d like a handy guide on turning chains and stitches at your fingertips, you should download my crochet stitch guide for beginners.
3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.
Is it the 3rd chain from the hook, the 4th chain or the 5th chain? The chain on the hook does not count. You have to count the chains from the hook. Inserting the first stitch too early will result in a wider piece whereas inserting too late can result in a narrower piece. In this picture, I have made a ch2 for a half double crochet and should be inserting my hook into the 4th chain from the hook. Can you see what I mean by “4th chain from the hook”?
4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.
Whether you are making a turning chain at the beginning of the row or just coming to the end of a row- the turning chains count! If you do not make a stitch into the top of the previous turning chain, you will not get an even amount of stitches and your crochet will start to shrink.
Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.
This is a bit fiddly but when you are learning, it will save you so much hassle. Just take it off after you’ve made your last stitch and insert it into the top of the next turning chain. Hopefully you’ll get so sick of seeing it that you will learn to never miss the turning chain again.

June 11, 2025
How to block granny squares. Step by step crochet tutorial for beginners.
Have you made your granny squares, but you’re not sure how to block granny squares? In this post, I will show you how I block mine.
You’ve seen them around: absolutely beautiful crochet blankets that lay flat effortlessly. If you’re using a natural fibre to crochet granny squares such as wool or cotton, you will benefit from learning how to block granny squares. if you’re using synthetic fibres, you can still get fantastic results!
If you’ve read my other blog post on how to crochet a granny square, you’ll be ready to try joining granny squares, and last of all: blocking granny squares!
Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.
What is blocking?
Blocking is a method that makers use to shape or flatten their knit or crochet projects. If you use natural fibres such as wool, you may benefit from blocking your pieces. The process of blocking will help to flatten any curling edges and balance any uneven stitches. It doesn’t have to be expensive or particularly risky.
Blocking is not compulsory but it can help especially if you are selling the finished work or giving it as a gift. It opens out lace or openwork and relaxes the fabric. It’s also an opportunity to shape things to the desired dimensions.
Why block granny squares?
You would iron your garments if you’d sewn them to give a professional finish, so why not block your knitting and crochet projects? It’s the same principle.
When it comes to squares, they can be blocked in several ways but I’m going to show you how to block them with water and a foam mat.
As part of the #StashBlanketCAL I am making a granny square blanket out of the aran yarn that I have in my stash. I’m really enjoying mixing the colours and making what I can with what I have. The yarn I am using is made from Shetland wool so I am blocking it to help flatten the pieces. This will give me a flatter blanket overall.
In this instance, blocking will help me to match up my granny squares and join them easily, as I will be able to see where edges match up.
I’ll show you how I block granny squares.
Step 1: Soak the square
You can buy a suitable soak wash for your knitting and crochet but I just use warm water.
I haven’t noticed any difference in using a soak. I barely smell the fragrance or feel a difference in the fabric. I could just be doing it wrong but I’ve mostly always used warm water and save the wool wash bottle for hand washing.
Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.
When pulling your pieces out of the water, don’t ever wring them. Always squeeze.
Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.
I’m just using a hand towel because it’s just a granny square. For a jumper, I’d use something bigger. Squeeze as much water out of the square as you can with the towel and finish off with rolling it up. Either squeeze the towel or lean on it. I use my body weight to flatten the towel burrito.
Step 4: Roll it up
This just adds a bit more pressure. It’s like wrapping your wet hair up in a towel after having a shower. It takes another layer of moisture off the piece. Do this nice and tight.
Step 5: Squeeze the burrito.
You can do this by squeezing it in your hands or kneel on it. I use my body weight if it is a larger project.
Step 6: Pin it in place.
I use foam play mats because the pin goes in with minimal resistance whole still holding the yarn for me. I also like how portable the mats are. Sometimes I need to keep my things blocking out of reach of tiny hands. I use T pins. They’re a special shape of pin and the T stops the work from slipping off. Pin to your desired dimensions. I started with the corners first.
Now what?
You just have to wait until it is dry now. Give it 48 hours or so depending on temperature and humidity. While you’re waiting, you can make some more squares!
I hope this was helpful. Do you like to use any other blocking methods? Let me know in the comments!
Hanna

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June 11, 2025
Free crochet shower puff pattern.
Below is my free crochet shower puff pattern which is suitable for beginners as well as crocheters who are looking for a quick, satisfying stash-busting project! This pattern uses a small amount of cotton yarn and is lots of fun.
I first came up with the idea of a crochet shower puff when I was looking at crochet for the home. The added bonus of this project is that it is eco friendly if you use a sustainable yarn.
Plastic-free crochet shower puff pattern
Crochet yourself a washable cotton shower puff or give to friends and family as a last minute gift. This puff uses less than 100g of DK weight cotton- a handy stashbuster!
Instructions are written in US terms throughout.
The puff is made by establishing the ring of the core first, which won’t be seen once the puff is complete. You will then create the handle, which involves making 40 chains and connecting it to the centre ring with a slip stitch. The piece is then worked in the round using single crochet and double crochet.
Instructions are for a crochet bath puff. Please note that whether you choose the recommended yarn or not, for best result, please use cotton dk yarn, as this can be washed at 60 degrees to maintain hygiene.
To celebrate your move to plastic free bathing, I have teamed up with pretty-savage.co.uk to offer an exclusive discount code. Just use code PUFF10 to claim 10% off your order of plastic free soaps, soaks and much more.
Materials needed:
- 60g of cotton DK yarn. I used 1 ball of Cygnet 100% cotton DK (200m/ per 100g ball) in shade Pepper.
- 1 3.75mm crochet hook.
- 1 darning needle.
Instructions:
Core:
Ch 5. Sl st into 1st ch to close.
Handle:
Ch 40. Sl into ring to close loop.
Body:
Round 1: Ch 1, 25sc into ring. Sl into 1st dc to join the round.
Round 2-4: Ch 2, 3dc in every dc around. Join with a sl st in first dc to close round.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Glossary
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double crochet
Sc: Single crochet
Sl: Slip stitch.
Thank you for visiting Germander Cottage Crafts. This pattern is free, but if you would like to purchase the PDF or leave a gratuity the buttons are below!

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June 11, 2025
How to get started with crochet: A beginner’s guide.
Here’s some beginner crochet patterns and guides to help you get started with crochet.
Where do you start when you want to learn to crochet but you’re a beginner? Here!
Something that comes up often is the question “where do I start with crochet?” and that depends on you, the individual. Some beginners are as bold as brass and practically say “hit me with it” , determined to conquer any challenge that arises, whereas others want small steps, simplicity and progress that they can record slowly and observantly.
What type of crochet beginner are you?
It’s easy enough to work out based on what your appetite is and what you are working towards. If you can scroll through a few Youtube videos and think “I’ve got the hang of this” then good for you! The amount of content out there aimed at crochet beginners is pretty extreme. It can be very hard to navigate across really busy waters of the internet. Some of us can navigate without any particular help, while others need someone to steer the ship at first.
If you want slow and steady, or find that you switch off easily, maybe written instructions are better suited for you. You can read them quietly, in your own time without the distraction of adverts, different accents or unfamiliar terms. You can then look at videos to support what you have already learned.
I’m going to show you a range of beginner friendly patterns and guides that will help you to start your crochet journey.
Starting small
Learning to crochet is a journey that will take weeks, months and years to get the hang of. Please don’t let that put you off. Here are some small but satisfying projects for a crochet beginner.
Crochet rainbow keyring kit.
In this kit by One Creative Cat, you get the yarn and the pattern together. This takes the headache out of knowing which yarn to choose. You will need to provide your own 4mm crochet hook and a pair of scissors but other than that, this is a satisfying beginner project for you to try! You can find more about the kit here.
Crochet pot holder beginner pattern
Here’s a pattern that allows you to practice one stitch and make a square shape. It’s a free pattern from Sarah Maker and is really simple, functional and great to practice with. Use some cotton DK yarn as acrylic is not heat proof! Find the pattern here. As you’ll see from the pattern it recommends a cotton yarn. I recommend Cygnet 100% cotton DK which you can find here
The above patterns are perfect for beginners as they have step by step instructions and require only one basic crochet stitch.
What are the basic crochet stitches?
If you have trouble remembering the basic crochet stitches or don’t even know where to start, here’s my guide on the 6 basic stitches to get you started. It’s a downloadable PDF that I wrote to compliment my Youtube tutorials. You can subscribe to the beginners playlist here.
Here’s an example of one of the tutorials. This is the single crochet stitch and is featured in most beginner patterns:

Ready for something bigger? Here are some patterns for the more adventurous beginner.
Below you’ll find some crochet patterns that are great for refreshers as well as beginners. They also have supporting video tutorials provided within the pattern.
Basic granny square beginner pattern
Try this pattern if you want to learn how to read crochet patterns. This is a skill worth investing your time in as it will help you to understand a range of instructions. As you come across abbreviations you will also be able to tackle more challenging patterns! Click here to see the beginner granny square pattern. Every new crocheter should at least try the granny square!
Plastic free shower puff crochet pattern.
This is a great beginner pattern for those who want to learn to crochet in the round. It’s very similar to how you would crochet a granny square. You can either use the free pattern with ads, or there’s an option to download it from Ravelry too!
Beginner friendly yarns
I think as a beginner you can’t go wrong with DK yarn or Worsted weight/Aran yarn and a 4 or 5mm hook. This is what you’ll find at most craft classes or crochet workshops. All of the above patterns ask for yarn and hooks within this range.
Remember about fibre types and purposes though and please, please, please don’t make oven gloves, pot holders or tea towels out of acrylic as this is not heat proof. It will melt into the user’s hands. Cotton is perfect for functional items such as the aforementioned but also for accessories such as bags and wash cloths. Save wool and acrylic for cowls, scarves, garments and toys.

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June 11, 2025
What is a chain space in crochet? Here’s how to crochet between the stitches.
If you’ve wondered what a chain space is, look no further. Find out what the ch sp is in crochet patterns. This post will help you understand this technique better and apply it to your own crochet. This is a beginner crochet tutorial for people who are new to reading crochet patterns, or want to try more elaborate crochet patterns such as lace and filet crochet.
You can also use this information to help you with your granny squares.
If you’re new to crochet, you may have come across ‘chain space’, often mentioned in a pattern as ch sp. You may have thought ‘what does that mean?’ In this post, I’m going to show you what a crochet chain space is:
🧶Exactly what a chain space is.
🧶Where you will find one in your crochet pattern.
🧶Exactly where you’re supposed to put your crochet hook.
What is a chain space (ch sp) in crochet? How do we know where the pattern wants us to insert our hook?
A chain space is made when you skip a stitch or several stitches. You’ll see a lot of chain spaces used in granny squares or lacy crochet projects.
It can be really intimidating to come across this when you’re starting out, but it’s easier than it seems on paper! In crochet patterns, ch sp is used meaning one space. If you are not familiar with any of the stitches mentioned in this tutorial, you can find my handy crochet stitch guide by clicking here.
Working into the chain space can be a lot of fun as it means your project is moving quickly. You may feel like you’re just working through air. You’ll be able to make more intricate designs. This method is useful for filet crochet and lace crochet, as it looks like lace, but is half the work!
Should my chain space stitches be different?
No. If you are asked to make a double crochet into the chain space, just make a double crochet. The chain space replaces the individual chain you may have otherwise been working in. See my example of where it goes here:
This is a double crochet stitch being worked into a chain space.
Other examples of where you need to use spaces to make the design:
In this image, you can see that V stitch is constructed by working into the centre of every v ch sp across the row. Once you’ve set up the first row, it’s a breeze!
This is why the v stitch is one of my favourite crochet stitches of all time. With the V stitch, you don’t need to worry about counting chains and stitches because you’re just working into the chain space. Try it, and you’ll see what I mean! Why not have a go at a pattern that features the V stitch? I’ve shared some ideas below:
This is the v stitch pullover. This entire jumper is worked in v stitch. It’s much quicker to whip up than working a dc into every chain, for example.
Using chain spaces also means that projects with finer yarns take less time too. For example, the Titania shawl is a very big shawl but doesn’t take months to make because of the amount of openwork.
The Titania Shawl uses open spaces to create lace!
Chain space and its descriptions in patterns.
In my patterns I always describe the chain space as this:
Ch Sp: Chain space. The gap created between stitches.
This literally means the ‘gap’ that has been made between stitches or chains. Scroll down for a detailed look at where the space is and what you’re supposed to do with it.
If you look at the image above, you’ll see that some chains have been skipped along the bottom row. This has created a chain space for you to work your next cluster of stitches into.
Other ways chain space may appear in patterns:
Ch-3 sp: The number here could change from pattern to pattern but it basically means to work your stitch into each space that has been created by 3 chains. It is just specifying what the space looks like. In this example, it has 3 chains above it. In the pattern pictured above I might say “Ch-2 sp” meaning, insert the hook into the space created by the 2 chains made in the row before. This will also appear if there are other types of stitches or clusters being used in the same row or round.
I hope this article helped!
Thanks for reading. If you’d like to learn more about crochet and crochet patterns, here are some more posts for you to explore.
Now that you know what a chain space is in crochet, why not try some of my patterns?
- V stitch sweater pattern
- Titania Lace Crochet Shawl
- Granny Squares
FAQ
Q. I can’t see the chain spaces easily. Why is this?
A. When you’re using a bulky or novelty yarn, it can be hard to see the gaps in your crochet. You may want to use a thinner yarn while you’re learning.
Something that also happens is that your tension is too tight, and as a result you don’t have enough space between stitches. Move up a hook size and see how that goes.
Q. My v stitches are too floppy. They don’t sit straight in my fabric. What can I do to fix them?
A. You might need to adjust your tension by going down a hook size. Loose tension can lead to really loose, open chains. They might need to be slightly tighter.

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June 11, 2025