Category: Tutorials

Knitting and crochet tutorials. Learn to crochet and knit easily with these step by step knitting and crochet tutorials.

How to knit with double pointed knitting needles. DPN tutorial.
In this post we will explore double pointed knitting needles. These are also known as DPN and come in sets of 4 or 5 needles. They also come in 15cm (6in), 20cm (8in) and even 30cm (12in) and 40cm (15in) for larger projects such as adult sweaters!
DPNs are really useful when it comes to knitting things in the round. They are incredibly handy when knitting something small like the finger of a glove, or a baby sleeve.
Knitting with double pointed knitting needles can look really complicated, but once you realise you’re only ever knitting with two needles at a time you will be able to knit in the round easily with these handy sets of needles.
In this article, we will be looking at:
- How to cast on with double pointed knitting needles (video or step by step photo tutorial)
- What kind of needles you will need for your project.
- How to choose your next set of double pointed knitting needles.
Find out more about double pointed knitting needles below.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you choose to shop via any of the links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Here’s how to cast on and knit with double pointed knitting needles.
Ever wanted to try double pointed needles but were put off by how complicated they look? Maybe after seeing how to cast on and knit with them, you might see past the entangled hedgehog and feel more confident about giving them a try.
Here’s a video showing you how to knit with double pointed needles. There is also a step by step photo tutorial on this page.

What are double pointed needles used for?
You can use DPNs (double pointed needles) to knit absolutely anything in the round. You can use short ones such as 10cm and 15cm to knit socks and mittens, then there’s 20cm needles for hats and cowls. There are also 40cm double pointed needles to knit garments on. They’re very versatile and knitters have been using them for at least a century. That’s a long enougn lifespan to justify their usefulness, don’t you think?
Double pointed needles come in a range of materials and textures too. Wood needles are probably the lightest, with aluminium, plastic and steel not far behind. You can try the different materials out and see what’s right for you. Wood needles have a bit more flex so can therefore be more forgiving for a loose-tensioned hand. The steel needles may be more slippery and less useful for you but you won’t know until you try them as they can have excellent precision on lace knitting and picking up stitches.
This blog post is all about getting you started with double pointed needles. Take your time, be patient and have a go!
Casting on with double pointed needles:
To cast on, cast on like you would with a traditional, straight needle. A problem for many beginners is casting on too tightly and this can cause your stitches to twist, so here’s what I do:
Cast on across two needles held together. This forces some space between the stitches and allows you to easily get the next needle into the stitches. If your cast on method doesn’t work with this two needle technique, just cast on with one larger, straight needle.
For the sake of this tutorial, let’s call them needle 1, 2 and 3 with an active needle.
In this example here I have a 4mm straight needle to cast on with and I’m using 3mm double pointed needles for the rest of the project. This needle with no stitches on it will be needle 1.
When you have cast on the desired amount of stitches, use just one of the spare needles to start knitting. Let’s say that in this example it is a sock that we are knitting, we would be doing rib stitches (K1, P1).
Decide how many needles you want to use to knit your project.
Double pointed needles come in sets of 4 or 5. Most knitters will use 3 or 4 needles to hold stitches and 1 needle as the active needle.
In this example, I’m knitting stitches using the active needle. This will become needle 1. I’ve called it the ‘active’ needle and as you knit in the round, there should always be one free or ‘active’ needle for picking up the stitches.
Now I’m knitting another batch of stitches onto the active needle. This will be needle 2.
When you’ve decided how many stitches you need to have on each of the needles, just keep knitting across them with the active needle. The active needle will change every time you finish a set of stitches. In the photo above, I’m knitting the second set of stitches with my active needle.
If you’ve cast on over two needles, you can remove one of them when knitting the last set of stitches as you’ll need a new active needle to create needle 3.
When you’ve knit across all of the cast on stitches, it is time to join to work in the round. All you have to do is bring the first needle back to your right hand. It should have the tail end with it. I’ve knit across needle 1, 2 and 3 and have an active needle (4th needle). You can do this easily by flipping the entire project over.
To join, knit the first stitch of needle 3 with the active needle.
This will cause them to join in the round. You just keep knitting across the needles until you get to the desired length.
If you’re knitting something larger like a hat or even a garment, you may want to use 4 needles plus the active needle.
How do I stop the needles slipping off?
If you are starting out and don’t feel confident keeping control of the needles, this can be due to loose tension/things getting caught,
To ensure the needles don’t point vertically and slip out of your stitches, you can try any of these things:
- Knit over a desk so that the needles stay mostly horizontal.
- Knit over a cushion on your lap. This will stop the needles from dropping anywhere.
- Make sure your sleeves aren’t long and getting in the way. Roll them up or wear short sleeves when you’re using your DPNs for the first few times.
- Try not to hold the needles up to your face to see stitches. This can cause them to slip off. Make sure you have good lighting and can see the project well.
- Use needle stoppers. These are usually rubber shapes such as cones or balls that stop stitches slipping off the needles. Whilst they are very practical for needle storage and holding projects when you’re not using them, they might be a bit of a hassle if you have to remove them every time you knit onto the next needle.
As your tension improves, your needles should stay on the stitches.
Using double pointed needles shouldn’t be scary
At the end of the day, you are only ever knitting with two needles at any one time. Don’t let other knitters put you off using double pointed needles. There are often well meaning but unhelpful suggestions to “just use magic loop” or “buy these types instead” but I think it’s important that you try things out before deciding what is and isn’t for you. For all you know, you could love using double pointed needles.
Which DPNs are right for me?
There are many types of knitting needles due to personal preference. Some knitters prefer lightweight, wood needles while others prefer metals like steel and aluminium. Generally, plastic and aluminium are at the cheaper end of the range available, but they’re great to have if you’re just learning! Take a look at these types below to see what you would prefer when it comes to knitting with double pointed needles.
Lykke Driftwood Double Pointed Knitting Needles (6in)
Many knitters swear by LYKKE needles and it’s simple to understand why: they’re lightweight and available in natural materials. These driftwood needles are 16 Sizes (2mm – 9mm).
Lykke is the Norwegian word for happiness, which is certainly what you’ll be feeling by using their range of knitting and crochet accessories.
As global demand is increasing for our products, this community of skilled workers is growing too, expanding our output capacity. High quality materials and thoughtful design details produce the most beautiful and durable products. The craftsmanship is really something to admire! All knitting needles and crochet hooks are handcrafted and assembled in Nepal by Nepalese craftspeople.
These needles are renowned for their reputation of being strong and flexible with a smoothness that won’t snag! Buy now and add something special to your craft bag.
Addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles.
These little needles are so smooth and lightweight. I used them in some of the images above, as well as the video. This is because I was knitting something really small (a mini sock) and didn’t want long, heavy needles getting stuck on the desk as I worked. The addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles are small as well as light, so they’re really handy for on-the-go knitting or working with something tiny, like a toy!
What I particularly like about these needles is how smooth they are. They’re waxed, so they don’t splinter easily and the yarn glides down the shaft just as it would with a metal needle. I would suggest using bamboo knitting needles for acrylic yarns as the plastic on plastic you get with Pony needles for example can be quite squeaky! Not ideal if you’re sensitive to that kind of thing.
They’re also getting my vote because they come in 6 handy sizes. Start really small with 2mm and work your way up to 4mm. They’re absolutely perfect for tiny things like toys, socks and gloves.
Addi grey aluminium double pointed knitting needles
These double pointed needles are my absolute favourite, ever. They’re a great size for socks and mitts as well as sleeves. I swear these needles make me knit faster! They’re so simple and in the years I’ve owned addi aluminium needles, none have bent. I’ve had my longer straight needles kink, and my thinner knitpro needles bend, but not these. My addi’s have been loyal to me and are fantastic for knitting sleeves for my kids’ stuff as well as for my own. I think the 20cm length are perfect for sleeves and hats as once you’ve separated the stitches, they don’t go riding off the edge easily.
They’re smooth, coated metal so there’s no snagging or pulling on your stitches. I wouldn’t recommend them if your hands are sensitive to the cold (the bamboo or driftwood needles are better suited in this department) but they’re great and they’re still my favourite. As with most needles, they come in several sizes so they’ll suit a variety of projects. They come as a set of 5 so you can always leave that extra one in the bag if you’re not knitting a big hat or an adult sleeve. I have these in sizes 3.5-5.5mm because I find them so handy. You can shop Lovecrafts range of addi double pointed knitting needles here.
Other double pointed knitting needles to consider:
Personally, I love anything by addi. They’re always such fun designs and so very useful. Being German, they scream practicality and functionality, but there’s also some cuteness there. I just love these needles. You can see Lovecrafts’ range of DPNs available here.
Thank you for reading!
June 16, 2025
How to turn a square heel. Sock knitting tutorial for beginners: the Dutch heel.
If you’ve been looking at sock knitting patterns and techniques lately, you may have noticed that as well as several styles of sock, there are also different styles of heels!
I’m going to show you how to make and turn the square (Dutch) heel which is my favourite sock heel of all time. It’s such a convenient type of heel that I use it in all of my sock knitting patterns.
In this tutorial, we’ll cover:
- What a square heel is.
- How it fits.
- Why it’s a good choice for beginners.
- Where you can practice it.
- How to make it.
The flock socks (above) have a square heel.
How is the square heel shaped and constructed?
The square heel is shaped by making some simple increases, short row shaping and decreases. Don’t be put off by ‘short rows’ as it is simply knitting to a gap, turning around and knitting back to the next gap. It’s very easy to do once you understand the basics. I use M1R and M1L to increase the stitches.
Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable?
A square heel sits just under the heel of your foot. As the skin is usually harder here, I wouldn’t say that you can feel the edges of the heel underfoot. This experience could be different for you though! Some people who have a higher instep might prefer a bigger heel such as the flap and gusset heel but I’d still recommend trying all heels before your write any of them off.
This square heel is a neat convenient sock heel and is quite hard wearing too. If you just want a pair of classic knit socks that are a workhorse through cooler months, you have to try this heel.
Is there a heel flap and gusset?
Not quite. Increasing for the heel takes place as you are knitting the sock leg. That’s the gusset part! There is some flat knitting involved (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) when actually turning the heel but you never come away from the rest of the sock. There is no need to pick up any stitches along the sides of the heel. It is integrated into the sock. When it comes to decreasing back down to your original stitch count, you just make some decreases and some careful slipping of stitches to ensure that you don’t create any holes.
Is the square heel adjustable?
Yes, it is. Just add a stitch either side until you get to the desired width or if you have narrower heels, don’t increase as often as the pattern tells you to.
Here’s how to do a square heel. This example is from the advent mini sock pattern which can be found here.
This example heel is from my free sock knitting pattern here.
Increasing for heel:
Round 1: M1R, PM (marker 1), K16, PM (marker 2), M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Round 2: Knit all sts.
Round 3: Knit to marker 1, M1R, SM, Knit to marker 2, SM, M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 2 times, until 8 new stitches have been created.
You now have 24 sts for the heel, 16 sts for the instep and 40 sts in total.
Decreasing for the heel
Row 1: Knit to marker 1, SM, K11, SKP, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.
Row 2: P7, P2tog. Turn.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before gap, SKP. Turn.
Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 2 times.
There you have it- a square heel.
You have decreased back to the original stitch count: 16 sts for both the heel and the instep, and 32 sts in total. You should be right side facing, with marker 1 on your right-hand needle.
‘Fixing gaps’ round: Remove marker 1, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1R and slip the bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to marker 2, remove marker, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1L and slip the twisted bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of round.
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Mini sock knitting tutorial here:
June 14, 2025
Where to put your hook in crochet. How to crochet for complete beginners.
Have you started reading crochet patterns but you’re not sure where to put your crochet hook? Here I’ll show you where to put your hook in crochet.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
Stitch tutorials on Youtube tend to be standalone videos, meaning they are not about a specific pattern. They show you how to do the stitch at the basic level but if you are looking at a pattern, you’ll find variations of that same stitch. For example, if I am showing you how to do the V stitch, I might do it using double crochet (UK treble) but in a pattern, I may say that the v stitch is made using half double crochet (UK half treble). This changes from pattern to pattern and the designer should always explain how to make the desired stitch if it varies from one of the basic stitches. This is the same for where you are supposed to put your hook. Not all patterns will want you to put your hook under both loops. Some will specify back loop or front loop.
I’ll show you where to put your hook when you’re doing crochet.
This example is using a half double crochet (UK half treble) piece. This example can be used for any pattern that uses any of these basic stitches:
US term UK term
Single crochet (Sc) Double crochet (Dc)
Half double crochet (Hdc) Half treble crochet (Htr)
Double crochet (Dc) Treble crochet (Tr)
Triple crochet (Tr) Double treble crochet (Dtr)
Don’t know what any of these are? Try my basic stitch guide here.
Example 1: Hdc stitch not specified.
In this scenario the pattern will just say something along the lines of “Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop” and if you’re a beginner you might think “insert where?”. In this scenario, if the designer has not specified, it means under both loops.
If you look at the top of your stitches, you’ll see that they form a “v” shape. It’s similar to how a knitted stitch looks in stockinette. Imagine that the v has two legs. You need to put your hook under both of those legs.
See how there are two legs on the hook? This still only counts as 3 loops on the hook but I’ve made sure that I’ve gone under both legs of the stitch.
Example 2: The pattern specifies back loop only.
Back loop only is where you insert your hook into the back leg of the v. This is clearly explained in the pattern and the designer wants you to do this to achieve a particular texture.
Example 3: The pattern specifies front loop only.
In this case you need to insert your hook into the front leg of the v. The designer will have specified because it’s crucial to the design. There will be a certain texture that needs to be achieved.
The front loop is the leg of the v that is nearest you. This will also be referred to as the chain or the stitch.
Still not clear on where you need to put your hook?
If the pattern is confusing you, try to get in touch with the designer. Sometimes it could just need spelling out, or there may be a mistake they don’t know about yet.
Want to get started with crochet?
Head to Minerva Crafts to find a range of crochet hooks to help you get started.
June 14, 2025
Gauge and tension in knitting and crochet. Gauge explained.
Gauge, also known as ‘tension’ is the measurement of stitches to rows or rounds. Gauge is important and here’s why you need to check it.
This is important for several reasons but checking gauge can:
- Ensure you are using a suitable size hook or needle.
- Ensure that you will have the right amount of yarn.
- Help you understand how the yarn behaves.
- Helps you to work out whether the item will fit/be the right size.
It’s not just a hoop to jump through. If you are making a garment and have gone to all the trouble of spending your money on 6-8 balls of good yarn, why skip this part? What if you cast off and it doesn’t and will never fit you?
Common anti-gauge statements:
1. “I just accept the mistakes”
This is baffling to me, personally, because if a mistake could be avoided early on, I would take the chance. The gauge swatch is your crystal ball. It shows you how things will work out in the future!
We will all make mistakes when the project gets going. We could drop a stitch, accidentally repeat a row or skip a step but to willingly risk a mistake? Don’t do that.
2. “You don’t need to check gauge for shawls”
That’s interesting. Will you not run out of yarn if your tension is much tighter than the gauge stated on the pattern? I would think so. Best to check and be sure.
3. “It’s a waste of my time and yarn”
You could perceive it that way but the tension square can be unravelled and used for the main project. You don’t have to order 1 ball, do a tension square and then order the other 5. Just reuse the yarn!
Even if the yarn has been blocked, you can still unravel and use it again.
4. “I’ve used the exact yarn and hook recommended so it will be fine”
That’s very optimistic of you but tension varies from person to person and can be altered daily. Don’t take the risk. My favourite lines in a pattern include “Check tension to ensure success”. This all depends on you, not the materials or the tools.
How to I measure my tension?
To measure, take a measuring tape, ruler, or a square gauge (pictured) and measure across the stitches for 4 inches (10cm). Then measure the amount of rows per 4 inches (10cm).
In the above example, there are 5 v stitches and 6 rows per 10cm (4in) square.
All good patterns will give you desired measurements over a 10cm/4in square. What you should then do is knit or crochet that many stitches and that many rows and then measure it. Where does your swatch compare?
I have more stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too tight. If it is too tight, you will end up with the project being much smaller than it should be. The fabric could also be stiff and unflattering, depending on the item. What you need to do is increase the size of your tool by 0.5mm. Keep going up until you get the gauge that is correct.
If your work is coming out as tighter or smaller than it should be, you will likely run out of yarn before the project is finished.
I have fewer stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too loose. If you’re making a garment, it will be too big! The stitches will look loose with lots of loops visible. What you need to do is go down a needle or hook size to match. Start by going down in increments of 0.5mm. You may need to make a few swatches to find your tension but it will be worth it in the end.
If your work is too loose, you will likely have yarn left over at the end of the project.
I have more or fewer rows than recommended, but my stitch count is perfect. What do I do?
In this scenario, you have a few choices. You can either:
- Change needle type ie switch from aluminium to bamboo. This can affect the height of the stitches.
- Change yarn type. It could be too thin or too thick. Have a look at wraps per inch as opposed to yarn weight, as not all DK and Aran are the same thickness. To find out more about wpi, Eden cottage yarns has a helpful blog post here
- Block it. You could get to 4 inches without an extra row by blocking.
- Work to the measurements on the pattern. Instead of counting the rows, get your measuring tape out and stop when you’ve reached the measurements it is supposed to be e.g. “work until piece measures 30cm/12in).
Why you have to find your own tension
Don’t feel put off because you’re using a 10mm hook but the pattern says 6mm. This just means that you have really tight tension. Tension may ease (or tighten) with practise but working with your individual tension level is absolutely fine.
Think of the tension square as the cat flap. This cat flap only accepts cats of a certain size. Gerbils can’t get in and neither can a husky. As long as you meet those dimensions needed, the cat can come through the cat flap. You can use whatever hook or needles you need to in order to do this. Using a 5mm needle for a 4mm sock pattern recommendation doesn’t mean you’re wrong. It means you need to give yourself more width to allow for your negative tension.
Do I need to block the swatch?
Many designers recommend blocking your swatch so that you can see how the yarn behaves. Some yarn blooms and other yarn shrinks, so block any natural (or part natural) fibres to see how they will behave. This is important because although your tension may be perfect with wool unblocked, blocking the garment could result in it becoming too big or too small.
In patterns the instructions for garments will say “block to measurements” so block the swatch too!
Blocking acrylic yarns is optional. If the listed materials in the pattern are acrylic, it may not have been blocked unless explicitly stated. If the listed materials include a natural fibre, it will have been blocked. Treat the swatch as it was intended.
June 14, 2025
Yarn weight and why it matters
How to measure your yarn’s thickness and match it with the required tension.
In this blog post I’m talking all things yarn weight and why it matters. Knitting or crocheting with whatever yarn you have to hand may be an option for you if you just want to make something without a pattern but that will not be the case for other things. Getting the yarn weight right is vital for success in knitting.
When you’re new to knitting or crochet, it may seem that simply using the yarn weight suggested on the ball band will be fine. Sometimes it will, but sometimes it won’t. Here’s a tutorial showing you how to measure yarns to make sure you’re using the best thickness for your individual tension and technique.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
If you’re knitting something with a pattern, it is very helpful to use the yarn weight suggested and here’s why:
- Thickness of yarn will affect the finished look.
- Meterage is usually lower the thicker the yarn meaning you may need more than you thought.
- The drape of the final fabric varies.
- The size of the finished project will vary.
- The needle or hook required may not match.
If you only have 4mm needles and want to use a chunky yarn, you’re going to end up with a really dense, stiff piece of fabric. That will not work if you’re wanting to wear it, for example.
Do I have to use exactly the same yarn as the pattern states?
No, you don’t. Every knitter has a budget unique to them and there is a lot of personal preference to fibre types anyway, so don’t ever feel that you have to use exactly the same yarn. Yarns come and go and get discontinued frequently (especially commercial yarns) so by the time you come to knitting from a pattern, it may not be available anyway!
You can read more about how to substitute yarn here.
Do I need to have more than one pair of needles?
Yes. I would tell every knitting beginner to invest in a needle range of 3mm-10mm (US3-US15) purely because you’ll come across a range of requirements. Even a DK cardigan or hat pattern that asks for 4mm needles will want you to also have some 3.25mm for the ribbing of the cuffs and button bands.
Have more than one pair of needles so that you can match them to the yarn you have. If someone has kindly sent you away with a bundle of gift yarn to help you get started, you’re going to need to anticipate the requirement for different needle sizes.
Needle sizes ensure that the gauge swatch is correct. This is also referred to as tension in knitting patterns.
How to do a gauge swatch
To do a gauge swatch, take the needles that are recommended by the pattern and take yarn in the size recommended by the pattern.
Knit at least the amount that the pattern states. Ideally, you should knit a few more stitches so that you’re measuring more than just the very outer edges of the square. If the tension is stated as “22 sts by 30 rows” I would cast on and knit 30 stitches and 35 rows just to make sure that I can measure it accurately with a standard knitting gauge ruler like this one here.
If you struggle to get an accurate gauge measurement from measuring with tape or a ruler, you can always use a knitting gauge such as this Knitpro one here.
Your swatch will probably curl up and misbehave at first. What some designers recommend is blocking the swatch to measurements. This is really handy for learning about how your yarn will behave when the item has been washed. You won’t notice much of a difference with synthetic yarns but I would certainly recommend this method for natural fibres or synthetics that are blended with natural fibres.
Your gauge swatch tells you a few things about your yarn weight:
1. It tells you whether you’re using the right needle size.
2. It tells you if you’re using a yarn thick or thin enough.
3. It shows you how much yarn you’ll eat up per inch.
4. It gives you an idea of how the finished item will look if you knit it in that yarn.
5. It gives you a chance to see how the yarn will behave after washing.
If your stitches and rows are off, there are some solutions here for you:
Problem one:
If you have more stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go up a needle size. You can start by going up by 0.5mm and work your way from there.
Problem two:
If you have fewer stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go down a needle size. As with the previous instruction, do this by 0.5mm increments.
Does it matter if my stitches are the right size?
Yes, it really does.
Your gauge swatch will tell you if what you’re making will actually fit you or be the size it is supposed to be. If you knit a toy rabbit in 6mm needles and chunky yarn but the pattern calls for 3.5mm needles and DK yarn, you’re going to end up with a much bigger rabbit that requires much more yarn!
To swatch or not to swatch?
Many knitters will say they don’t swatch and that they don’t mind if the finished item and that’s their choice but as a designer I can assure you that dp=oing a swatch saves so much time, hassle and questions. If you’re also a beginner, it’s another practice square before the big event!
In conclusion, you can’t just use any yarn weight unless you’ve got a really clever pattern that allows you to knit in any weight. These patterns will have several tensions in the pattern so the chances of you meeting at least one of them are high! This isn’t common practice though and won’t work for everything.
October 7, 2025Simple DK sock knitting pattern. DK Boot socks.
This is a free sock knitting pattern for a pair of DK …
October 4, 2025Free sock pattern: Advent mini sock knitting pattern.
Advent mini sock If you're just starting out with socks, you may …
June 14, 2025
Single Crochet Rib Tutorial
If you’re just learning to crochet, you may be surprised to see how many knit-like effects you can create with your crochet hook. Single crochet rib (also known as double crochet rib in UK terms) is a really quick and effective way to add rib detailing to your projects.
This article contains affiliate links. I receive a small commission from any purchases made using the links.
Crochet rib is a major detail in the Beyond cardigan and as part of this crochet along, I’m doing stitch tutorials to help you achieve your goals of making your first crochet cardigan!
The yarn I’ve used in this tutorial is Paintbox Wool Mix Aran in Bubblegum.
Why not check out these patterns to help you practice crochet rib even more:
Beyond cardigan pattern.
Betwixt Cowl Pattern
Lovechunk baby sweater.
Here are some step by step photos to help you.
Step 1:
Make your chain as instructed by the pattern. Here’s an example chain of 22.
Step 2:
Insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. That does not include the chain on the hook. Make a single crochet stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook.
Single crochet in every chain to end. 21 stitches.
Step 3:
Chain 1 and turn. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook but this time do it in the back loop only. Single crochet in every back loop to end.
Step 4:
Chain 1, turn and work a single crochet stitch into the back loop of every single crochet stitch to end.
Step 5:
Repeat step 4 until you have achieved the desired amount of rows.
Your crochet rib will look like this when you turn it from horizontal to vertical.
Found this tutorial helpful? Why not share it?
June 13, 2025
How to make T-shirt yarn. DIY T shirt yarn tutorial.
Here’s how to make your own t shirt yarn from fabrics you may want to recycle instead of throwing out.
I first decided to use up some t shirt yarn when my lovely dog accidentally walked some poo into the house, smeared it onto the sheepskin rug and then lay on it for extra measure. I was devastated as that was her favourite place to sleep but there was no way I was going to get the sheepskin clean again. I was also short of another £50-£100 for a new sheepskin rug so my only option was to crochet something with what I already had around the house.
I can’t be the only person with a long history of different dress sizes, varying tastes in clothing and a box full of old t shirts that were not good enough to sell or give to charity but were still useful. If they have holes in, seams falling apart or are faded and threadbare, they’re still really useful for making home decor.
I also asked my Dad to donate some t shirts that are now too big for him. He donated some XXL t shirts and it helped me to finish off my crochet rug in a way that a size 10 women’s t shirt or age 5 leggings could not.
It was such a fun project. It’s like magic. You take a t shirt, cut it in a very specific way, stretch the strips and wind them into a ball. I’ll show you how I did it:
Materials required:
- Good fabric scissors. You’ll get smoother edges this way and limited fraying. I used these Fiskars scissors.
- A t shirt or dress made of stretchy cotton jersey.
- A roll such as a wrapping paper tube (optional) or your arm.
- A flat surface to work on.
First take the T shirt and cut from one underarm to the other in a horizontal direction. This frees up a tube or rectangle and you can make some yarn with absolutely no knots.
Cut off the bottom seam or unpick it first and then use it as part of the rectangle.
You need to cut across the t shirt in 1-2in strips depending on how thick you want your yarn to be. I cut mine in 2.5cm/1in strips as I had a 10mm hook but if you are using finger crochet or want to use a bigger hook, by all means go for the larger strip. T shirt yarn is very forgiving so it doesn’t matter if your strips aren’t symmetrical.
You have to cut across from one end to the next but you do not cut the end instead, you cut to about 1inch from the side seam (or side if you don’t have side seams). Keep cutting from one edge to 1 in before the other. You will only cut one side completely.
Next, you need to drape the uncut edge of the tshirt across your arm or a tube such as a wrapping paper roll. This enables you to see the uncut fabric. You will then cut the first top strip on the right diagonal (left leaning). That will be the beginning of the yarn ball.
If you’re left handed, work from the left to right, cutting diagonally from the bottom left to the top right.
You then need to cut from the top of the bottom right strip diagonally so it matches up with the top right strip.
Keep cutting the left leaning diagonal strips until there’s one strip left. Cut that off completely just as you did with the first strip. That is the other end of the yarn.
Don’t worry if you make a mistake here and end up with smaller strips. Just tie them together. The knots can be hidden under stitches.
How to wind it into a ball
At this point you can give the strips a little stretch. This just gives you more mileage out of the yarn and evens it out as it folds over on itself like bias binding does.
Can I use the rest of the t shirt?
You can but you won’t get as much fabric as you did with the body and there will be knots. I’ll pop another blog post up soon to show you how to do that but if you’re happy with the yarn that you have, why not just use the top parts as cleaning rags? They’re much more eco friendly than microfibre cloths as they don’t release microplastics when washed.
Can I cut up other fabric?
Yes. I used some of my daughter’s holey leggings too. I checked to see what direction the fabric was stretching in and I had a choice between cutting across the leg horizontally (just like with the t shirt) or cutting up the leg lengthways into strips. The latter method does result in pieces that need tying together but you’re never going to get away with that.
I also used a stretchy maternity dress as t shirt yarn. I just used the exact same method as I did with the t shirt. It was jersey knit fabric so it works absolutely fine.
You can also cut up fabrics that are not stretchy but these will not be as forgiving to work with so you might want to use a larger hook.
Here’s how to cut up your yarn using the whole tshirt.
June 13, 2025
Free crochet stitch guide for beginners.
Want to learn to crochet but you’re not sure what the stitches are? Or maybe you’re not sure what stitch you should start with as a beginner. In this post I’ve shared my crochet stitch guide for absolute beginners. My students swear by this pattern. I hope it’ll be handy for you, too!
If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.
Think of this crochet stitch guide as the official quick reference companion for learning crochet. This works as a way to remind yourself of what stitches mean when you are working on a project. I also include the UK variations for the terms.
Inside:
- Single crochet
- Half double crochet
- Double crochet
- Triple crochet
- V stitch crochet
- Shell stitch crochet.
In this guide with clear colour photographs I explain how many chains you need as well as how to do each stitch. Please make sure you have a look at the photographs, or visit my youtube channel for more help.

Crochet stitches for beginners
The basics
This is an introductory guide to the main basic crochet stitches. If you’d like to see demonstrations, please subscribe to my youtube channel by clicking here.
Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)
Abbreviations: sc (US) dc (UK).
Single crochet is the smallest stitch you can do in crochet. It is commonly used in dishcloths, face scrubbies and amigurumi. The dense, short stitches are great for toys as the stuffing is less likely to leak out! Single crochet also works great for baskets as it provides a dense, sturdy fabric.
Directions:
Insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 1.
Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)
Abbreviations: Hdc (US) Htr (UK)
I really like half double crochet as it starts off as a double but ends as a single. It’s a tall enough stitch without all of the work.
Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through the 3 loops on the hook. Do this in every chain.
When you get to the end, chain 2 and turn.
Double crochet (UK Treble)
Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)
Abbreviations: Tr (US) (Dtr UK)
This is a very tall stitch (but not the tallest!) requiring a turning chain of 4 stitches.
Yarn over twice, insert hook. Yarn over and pull through a loop. *Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat * 2 more times.
When turning, always chain 4.
V stitch
Abbreviations: V st
V stitch is a crochet lace stitch. We create the vs by using double crochet and chains.
V stitch is made by working a multiple of 3 chains plus an additional 4 chains.
First row (after chaining)
Make a dc (UK Tr) into the 5th chain from hook. Chain 1 and make a second Dc (UK tr) into the same stitch. Skip the next 2 chains and and make another V into the next stitch. Continue until you only have 2 chains left. Skip one chain and make a single dc into the next chain.
Second row: Make a 3 ch turning chain, make a V into the centre of the last V you made. This is called the chain space. Chain 1 and do the same again in every V across. When you get to the end, make a single Dc (UK Tr) into the last chain. Repeat for every following row.
Shell stitch
Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.
Row 1: Single crochet (UK double) into the 2nd chain from the hook, skip the next 2 chains, and dc (UK tr) 5 times into the next chain, sk next 2 chains, sc into the next chain, sk 2, dc 5 times into the next chain. Repeat to end, where you should end with one sc.
Row 2: Chain 3 and turn. Dc 2 more times into the last sc of the previous row. *Make a sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell, then make 5 dc into the next sc*. Repeat * to end and make 3dc into the last sc.
Row 3: Ch 1 and sc into the first dc of the previous row, *dc 5 times into the next sc, sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell* repeat to end, ending with a sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 to end.
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June 11, 2025
How to stop your crochet from getting smaller.
This is a common crochet problem for beginner crocheters. When you’re working flat or in the round, you may notice that your crochet piece is starting to shrink! It can also bloom, growing inexplicably wider. Let’s take a look at why this happens. Does this sound like you?
- You’re working on a flat piece and it is getting narrower and narrower.
Maybe I can help.
Here are 4 common reasons why your crochet seems to be getting smaller. Let me help you stop that from happening.
1. After the first row, check your stitch count.
This may seem like a really obvious one but you’d be amazed at how one missed stitch can go under the radar until it’s 30 rows too late. If you’re practising crochet for the first time, stick with 10-20 stitches at a time. This will help you to study your stitches without the exhaustion of having to rip back an entire jumper that is 4 inches too narrow. Trust me, these little stumbles in the early days will earn you all the skills.
2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.
You’d be surprised to hear how often this happens; people forget to make a turning chain. The reason the turning chain exists is to make the transition into the next row as smooth as possible. Not making a turning chain could result in a stitch at the end that is too short and causes the piece to slope inwards. You will then probably miss it when you’re working back across the row, leading to fewer overall stitches.
If you’d like a handy guide on turning chains and stitches at your fingertips, you should download my crochet stitch guide for beginners.
3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.
Is it the 3rd chain from the hook, the 4th chain or the 5th chain? The chain on the hook does not count. You have to count the chains from the hook. Inserting the first stitch too early will result in a wider piece whereas inserting too late can result in a narrower piece. In this picture, I have made a ch2 for a half double crochet and should be inserting my hook into the 4th chain from the hook. Can you see what I mean by “4th chain from the hook”?
4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.
Whether you are making a turning chain at the beginning of the row or just coming to the end of a row- the turning chains count! If you do not make a stitch into the top of the previous turning chain, you will not get an even amount of stitches and your crochet will start to shrink.
Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.
This is a bit fiddly but when you are learning, it will save you so much hassle. Just take it off after you’ve made your last stitch and insert it into the top of the next turning chain. Hopefully you’ll get so sick of seeing it that you will learn to never miss the turning chain again.

In conclusion, just do these four things and you should see the end of crochet shrinkage!
1. Check your stitch count. Check it again. This gets easier the more practised you are in crochet. Eventually, you will be able to just tell if your crochet doesn’t look right, but while you’re a beginner, count, and count again!
2. Remember to make a turning chain. You can’t just turn and crack on. Always make sure there is a turning chain, because that will be the first stitch, which brings me to point 3:
3. Are you making the first stitch of the next row in the 2nd chain from hook, 3rd chain from hook, 4th? Check! This matters massively.
4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch. The pattern will say if the turning chain isn’t included. Always assume it counts as first stitch unless the pattern says otherwise.
June 11, 2025
How to block granny squares. Step by step crochet tutorial for beginners.
Have you made your granny squares, but you’re not sure how to block granny squares? In this post, I will show you how I block mine.
You’ve seen them around: absolutely beautiful crochet blankets that lay flat effortlessly. If you’re using a natural fibre to crochet granny squares such as wool or cotton, you will benefit from learning how to block granny squares. if you’re using synthetic fibres, you can still get fantastic results!
If you’ve read my other blog post on how to crochet a granny square, you’ll be ready to try joining granny squares, and last of all: blocking granny squares!
Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.
What is blocking?
Blocking is a method that makers use to shape or flatten their knit or crochet projects. If you use natural fibres such as wool, you may benefit from blocking your pieces. The process of blocking will help to flatten any curling edges and balance any uneven stitches. It doesn’t have to be expensive or particularly risky.
Blocking is not compulsory but it can help especially if you are selling the finished work or giving it as a gift. It opens out lace or openwork and relaxes the fabric. It’s also an opportunity to shape things to the desired dimensions.
Why block granny squares?
You would iron your garments if you’d sewn them to give a professional finish, so why not block your knitting and crochet projects? It’s the same principle.
When it comes to squares, they can be blocked in several ways but I’m going to show you how to block them with water and a foam mat.
As part of the #StashBlanketCAL I am making a granny square blanket out of the aran yarn that I have in my stash. I’m really enjoying mixing the colours and making what I can with what I have. The yarn I am using is made from Shetland wool so I am blocking it to help flatten the pieces. This will give me a flatter blanket overall.
In this instance, blocking will help me to match up my granny squares and join them easily, as I will be able to see where edges match up.
I’ll show you how I block granny squares.
Step 1: Soak the square
You can buy a suitable soak wash for your knitting and crochet but I just use warm water.
I haven’t noticed any difference in using a soak. I barely smell the fragrance or feel a difference in the fabric. I could just be doing it wrong but I’ve mostly always used warm water and save the wool wash bottle for hand washing.
Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.
When pulling your pieces out of the water, don’t ever wring them. Always squeeze.
Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.
I’m just using a hand towel because it’s just a granny square. For a jumper, I’d use something bigger. Squeeze as much water out of the square as you can with the towel and finish off with rolling it up. Either squeeze the towel or lean on it. I use my body weight to flatten the towel burrito.
Step 4: Roll it up
This just adds a bit more pressure. It’s like wrapping your wet hair up in a towel after having a shower. It takes another layer of moisture off the piece. Do this nice and tight.
Step 5: Squeeze the burrito.
You can do this by squeezing it in your hands or kneel on it. I use my body weight if it is a larger project.
Step 6: Pin it in place.
I use foam play mats because the pin goes in with minimal resistance whole still holding the yarn for me. I also like how portable the mats are. Sometimes I need to keep my things blocking out of reach of tiny hands. I use T pins. They’re a special shape of pin and the T stops the work from slipping off. Pin to your desired dimensions. I started with the corners first.
Now what?
You just have to wait until it is dry now. Give it 48 hours or so depending on temperature and humidity. While you’re waiting, you can make some more squares!
I hope this was helpful. Do you like to use any other blocking methods? Let me know in the comments!
Hanna

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June 11, 2025

US term	UK term
Single crochet (Sc)	Double crochet (Dc)
Half double crochet (Hdc)	Half treble crochet (Htr)
Double crochet (Dc)	Treble crochet (Tr)
Triple crochet (Tr)	Double treble crochet (Dtr)

Category: Tutorials

Find out more about double pointed knitting needles below.

Here’s how to cast on and knit with double pointed knitting needles.

What are double pointed needles used for?

Casting on with double pointed needles:

Decide how many needles you want to use to knit your project.

If you’re knitting something larger like a hat or even a garment, you may want to use 4 needles plus the active needle.

How do I stop the needles slipping off?

Using double pointed needles shouldn’t be scary

Which DPNs are right for me?

Other double pointed knitting needles to consider:

How is the square heel shaped and constructed?

Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable?

Is there a heel flap and gusset?

Is the square heel adjustable?

Increasing for heel:

Decreasing for the heel

Mini sock knitting tutorial here:

Have you started reading crochet patterns but you’re not sure where to put your crochet hook? Here I’ll show you where to put your hook in crochet.

Example 1: Hdc stitch not specified.

Example 2: The pattern specifies back loop only.

Example 3: The pattern specifies front loop only.

Still not clear on where you need to put your hook?

Want to get started with crochet?

Gauge, also known as ‘tension’ is the measurement of stitches to rows or rounds. Gauge is important and here’s why you need to check it.

Common anti-gauge statements:

1. “I just accept the mistakes”

2. “You don’t need to check gauge for shawls”

3. “It’s a waste of my time and yarn”

4. “I’ve used the exact yarn and hook recommended so it will be fine”

How to I measure my tension?

I have more stitches than the designer’s swatch.

I have fewer stitches than the designer’s swatch.

I have more or fewer rows than recommended, but my stitch count is perfect. What do I do?

Why you have to find your own tension

Do I need to block the swatch?

How to measure your yarn’s thickness and match it with the required tension.

If you’re knitting something with a pattern, it is very helpful to use the yarn weight suggested and here’s why:

Do I have to use exactly the same yarn as the pattern states?

Do I need to have more than one pair of needles?

How to do a gauge swatch

Your gauge swatch tells you a few things about your yarn weight:

If your stitches and rows are off, there are some solutions here for you:

Does it matter if my stitches are the right size?

To swatch or not to swatch?

Here are some step by step photos to help you.

Step 1:

Step 2:

Step 3:

Step 4:

Step 5:

Here’s how to make your own t shirt yarn from fabrics you may want to recycle instead of throwing out.

How to wind it into a ball

Can I use the rest of the t shirt?

Can I cut up other fabric?

If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.

Crochet stitches for beginners

Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)

Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)

Double crochet (UK Treble)

Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)

When turning, always chain 4.

V stitch

Abbreviations: V st

Shell stitch

Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.

1. After the first row, check your stitch count.

2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.

3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.

4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.

Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.

Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.

What is blocking?

Why block granny squares?

I’ll show you how I block granny squares.

Step 1: Soak the square

Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.

Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.

Step 4: Roll it up

Step 5: Squeeze the burrito.