Wondering how to knit socks on straight needles? Try this two needle flat sock pattern. You can have all the glamour of 4ply socks without the worry of extra needles.
This article about knitting socks on straight needles contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy, I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Despite there being thousands of socks knit in the round. there is still strong demand for the flat knit sock pattern. This method is perfect for those of us who prefer knitting with two straight needles but want to try socks.
When I proposed the idea of designing one last spring, it was met with some scepticism. Why would anyone want to knit flat when you can knit with socks in the round? Where will the seam go? Will it be comfortable? It will be too much hassle with a toe seam, a heel seam or a side seam.
I managed to solve all of these potential issues. It is now my bestseller. There is good reason for it; not everybody wants to knit in the round. As a designer, I have always believed that design should solve problems as well as appeal to needs. If you prefer two sticks to four sticks, that’s absolutely fine. In fact, I am so happy with offering choice that I am working on my first two needle sock knitting ebook this year.
Every now and then I see enquiries pop up in Facebook knitting groups along the lines of ‘where can I find a 2 needle sock pattern?’.
What’s so special about my best selling flat knit sock pattern? A few things!
They are made using 4ply sock yarn.
They are cuff down.
They are worked flat the whole way- even the heel.
There is no heel seam to put on a stitch holder.
There is no toe seam to put on a stitch holder.
There is no side seam either.
What? How does this even work?
You knit from the cuff to the heel, increase for the heel, work some short rows (don’t be scared, it’s easier than it seems), knit to the toe, do some more decreases, and seam up the front.
The true difficulty depends on your seaming skills to be honest. If you choose a solid colour, you can hide the seam easier than striped, but that shouldn’t matter. It’s a sock. It will be worn under trousers and shoes. Also, in my experience people don’t tend to inspect my knitwear.
Need help choosing sock yarns?
Here I’ll recommend my favourite sock knitting yarns and tell you a bit about them:
It doesn’t get any better than this, sorry. West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply is such a straightforward, everyday sock yarn. It’s perfect because it’s a blend of British wool and some nylon for strength. I’ve used it for most of my sock designs, and have quite a bit in my stash. Other reasons why it’s great include:
It comes in a 100g ball. Perfect for a pair of adult socks.
It comes in a huge range of colours.
The yarn smells deliciously sheepy (if you know, you know.)
It comes in self-striping as well as solid or marl.
I’ve even used WYS Signature 4ply in my sock knitting patterns. You can find my basic cuff-down sock knitting pattern by clicking the image below.
In this post we will explore double pointed knitting needles. These are also known as DPN and come in sets of 4 or 5 needles. They also come in 15cm (6in), 20cm (8in) and even 30cm (12in) and 40cm (15in) for larger projects such as adult sweaters!
DPNs are really useful when it comes to knitting things in the round. They are incredibly handy when knitting something small like the finger of a glove, or a baby sleeve.
Knitting with double pointed knitting needles can look really complicated, but once you realise you’re only ever knitting with two needles at a time you will be able to knit in the round easily with these handy sets of needles.
In this article, we will be looking at:
How to cast on with double pointed knitting needles (video or step by step photo tutorial)
What kind of needles you will need for your project.
How to choose your next set of double pointed knitting needles.
Find out more about double pointed knitting needles below.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you choose to shop via any of the links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Here’s how to cast on and knit with double pointed knitting needles.
Ever wanted to try double pointed needles but were put off by how complicated they look? Maybe after seeing how to cast on and knit with them, you might see past the entangled hedgehog and feel more confident about giving them a try.
Here’s a video showing you how to knit with double pointed needles. There is also a step by step photo tutorial on this page.
What are double pointed needles used for?
You can use DPNs (double pointed needles) to knit absolutely anything in the round. You can use short ones such as 10cm and 15cm to knit socks and mittens, then there’s 20cm needles for hats and cowls. There are also 40cm double pointed needles to knit garments on. They’re very versatile and knitters have been using them for at least a century. That’s a long enougn lifespan to justify their usefulness, don’t you think?
Double pointed needles come in a range of materials and textures too. Wood needles are probably the lightest, with aluminium, plastic and steel not far behind. You can try the different materials out and see what’s right for you. Wood needles have a bit more flex so can therefore be more forgiving for a loose-tensioned hand. The steel needles may be more slippery and less useful for you but you won’t know until you try them as they can have excellent precision on lace knitting and picking up stitches.
This blog post is all about getting you started with double pointed needles. Take your time, be patient and have a go!
Casting on with double pointed needles:
To cast on, cast on like you would with a traditional, straight needle. A problem for many beginners is casting on too tightly and this can cause your stitches to twist, so here’s what I do:
Cast on across two needles held together. This forces some space between the stitches and allows you to easily get the next needle into the stitches. If your cast on method doesn’t work with this two needle technique, just cast on with one larger, straight needle.
For the sake of this tutorial, let’s call them needle 1, 2 and 3 with an active needle.
In this example here I have a 4mm straight needle to cast on with and I’m using 3mm double pointed needles for the rest of the project. This needle with no stitches on it will be needle 1.
When you have cast on the desired amount of stitches, use just one of the spare needles to start knitting. Let’s say that in this example it is a sock that we are knitting, we would be doing rib stitches (K1, P1).
Decide how many needles you want to use to knit your project.
Double pointed needles come in sets of 4 or 5. Most knitters will use 3 or 4 needles to hold stitches and 1 needle as the active needle.
In this example, I’m knitting stitches using the active needle. This will become needle 1. I’ve called it the ‘active’ needle and as you knit in the round, there should always be one free or ‘active’ needle for picking up the stitches.
Now I’m knitting another batch of stitches onto the active needle. This will be needle 2.
When you’ve decided how many stitches you need to have on each of the needles, just keep knitting across them with the active needle. The active needle will change every time you finish a set of stitches. In the photo above, I’m knitting the second set of stitches with my active needle.
If you’ve cast on over two needles, you can remove one of them when knitting the last set of stitches as you’ll need a new active needle to create needle 3.
When you’ve knit across all of the cast on stitches, it is time to join to work in the round. All you have to do is bring the first needle back to your right hand. It should have the tail end with it. I’ve knit across needle 1, 2 and 3 and have an active needle (4th needle). You can do this easily by flipping the entire project over.
To join, knit the first stitch of needle 3 with the active needle.
This will cause them to join in the round. You just keep knitting across the needles until you get to the desired length.
If you’re knitting something larger like a hat or even a garment, you may want to use 4 needles plus the active needle.
How do I stop the needles slipping off?
If you are starting out and don’t feel confident keeping control of the needles, this can be due to loose tension/things getting caught,
To ensure the needles don’t point vertically and slip out of your stitches, you can try any of these things:
Knit over a desk so that the needles stay mostly horizontal.
Knit over a cushion on your lap. This will stop the needles from dropping anywhere.
Make sure your sleeves aren’t long and getting in the way. Roll them up or wear short sleeves when you’re using your DPNs for the first few times.
Try not to hold the needles up to your face to see stitches. This can cause them to slip off. Make sure you have good lighting and can see the project well.
Use needle stoppers. These are usually rubber shapes such as cones or balls that stop stitches slipping off the needles. Whilst they are very practical for needle storage and holding projects when you’re not using them, they might be a bit of a hassle if you have to remove them every time you knit onto the next needle.
As your tension improves, your needles should stay on the stitches.
Using double pointed needles shouldn’t be scary
At the end of the day, you are only ever knitting with two needles at any one time. Don’t let other knitters put you off using double pointed needles. There are often well meaning but unhelpful suggestions to “just use magic loop” or “buy these types instead” but I think it’s important that you try things out before deciding what is and isn’t for you. For all you know, you could love using double pointed needles.
Which DPNs are right for me?
There are many types of knitting needles due to personal preference. Some knitters prefer lightweight, wood needles while others prefer metals like steel and aluminium. Generally, plastic and aluminium are at the cheaper end of the range available, but they’re great to have if you’re just learning! Take a look at these types below to see what you would prefer when it comes to knitting with double pointed needles.
Many knitters swear by LYKKE needles and it’s simple to understand why: they’re lightweight and available in natural materials. These driftwood needles are 16 Sizes (2mm – 9mm).
Lykke is the Norwegian word for happiness, which is certainly what you’ll be feeling by using their range of knitting and crochet accessories.
As global demand is increasing for our products, this community of skilled workers is growing too, expanding our output capacity. High quality materials and thoughtful design details produce the most beautiful and durable products. The craftsmanship is really something to admire! All knitting needles and crochet hooks are handcrafted and assembled in Nepal by Nepalese craftspeople.
These needles are renowned for their reputation of being strong and flexible with a smoothness that won’t snag! Buy now and add something special to your craft bag.
These little needles are so smooth and lightweight. I used them in some of the images above, as well as the video. This is because I was knitting something really small (a mini sock) and didn’t want long, heavy needles getting stuck on the desk as I worked. The addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles are small as well as light, so they’re really handy for on-the-go knitting or working with something tiny, like a toy!
What I particularly like about these needles is how smooth they are. They’re waxed, so they don’t splinter easily and the yarn glides down the shaft just as it would with a metal needle. I would suggest using bamboo knitting needles for acrylic yarns as the plastic on plastic you get with Pony needles for example can be quite squeaky! Not ideal if you’re sensitive to that kind of thing.
They’re also getting my vote because they come in 6 handy sizes. Start really small with 2mm and work your way up to 4mm. They’re absolutely perfect for tiny things like toys, socks and gloves.
These double pointed needles are my absolute favourite, ever. They’re a great size for socks and mitts as well as sleeves. I swear these needles make me knit faster! They’re so simple and in the years I’ve owned addi aluminium needles, none have bent. I’ve had my longer straight needles kink, and my thinner knitpro needles bend, but not these. My addi’s have been loyal to me and are fantastic for knitting sleeves for my kids’ stuff as well as for my own. I think the 20cm length are perfect for sleeves and hats as once you’ve separated the stitches, they don’t go riding off the edge easily.
They’re smooth, coated metal so there’s no snagging or pulling on your stitches. I wouldn’t recommend them if your hands are sensitive to the cold (the bamboo or driftwood needles are better suited in this department) but they’re great and they’re still my favourite. As with most needles, they come in several sizes so they’ll suit a variety of projects. They come as a set of 5 so you can always leave that extra one in the bag if you’re not knitting a big hat or an adult sleeve. I have these in sizes 3.5-5.5mm because I find them so handy. You can shop Lovecrafts range of addi double pointed knitting needles here.
Other double pointed knitting needles to consider:
Personally, I love anything by addi. They’re always such fun designs and so very useful. Being German, they scream practicality and functionality, but there’s also some cuteness there. I just love these needles. You can see Lovecrafts’ range of DPNs available here.
Here’s a quick run down of how and why you would block a knit or crochet hat.
Why block a hat?
To achieve desired fit e.g slouch or beret.
To open out any lace detail.
To relax the yarn.
To straighten any ruched stitches.
To even out the overall balance of the stitches.
To fix any mistakes with tension.
What is blocking?
Blocking is washing and shaping your knit or crochet pieces to the desired shape or size. Taking the time to block your natural fibres especially enables easier seaming as you can match the edges up clearly. It also helps with drape or fit of a garment. If you have used a cable stitch or a moss stitch in a natural or really light yarn, blocking can even it out so that you can see the full detail.
Why block a hat? You have a head!
It may seem excessive to block a hat when you have a head but it can really give the project a smooth, professional finish and it doesn’t need any specialist equipment!
I’ve blocked this particular hat because the slipped stitches caused the fabric to rumple. I wanted to straighten it out so that you can see the effect of the stitches. The crown is also a feature so I wanted to make sure it lies flat.
Here’s how I block a hat:
1. Place the finished hat in some warm water. You could use wool soaking solution to add some fragrance or conditioning if you wanted to but I’ve gone without here.
2. Let it absorb all of the water.
3. Take it out and give it a good squeeze. Do not wring or you’ll end up stretching it into oblivion and ruining all of your hard work.
4. Lay it on a towel and roll it up, squeezing any further excess moisture out of it.
5. Grab something rounded, like a bowl, a ball or a balloon. I’ve blown up a balloon and inflated it to around the same size as my head. You can always inflate it a little smaller as it will stretch to fit your head anyway. Just work with what you have!
6. Make sure that the hat is secured. Here, I’ve rested the narrow part of the balloon in a vase. This could just be an upturned bowl too.
7. Leave the hat to dry naturally.
When the hat is dry, it will be a slouchier fit than it was before blocking. This is what I want. I can also see the slipped stitches clearly now.
The Titania shawl crochet pattern is an elegant, lace wrap using 4ply yarn and V stitch to create that airy, lace fabric and elegant drape. This is a free crochet shawl pattern but if you would prefer a PDF with no ads, you can get one from Ravelry or Ko-Fi.
Pictured: The Titania Crochet Shawl draped over a mannequin’s shoulders.
It is a rectangular crochet shawl named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed.
What is the difficulty level for this shawl pattern?
This is an adventurous beginner pattern, meaning that if you know how to make a chain, make a double crochet stitch (UK treble) and know how to work into the chain space, you can make this shawl.
If you don’t know how to do those things, here are some helpful posts:
It measures a whopping 19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long when blocked. This really will wrap around you. If you know someone who is 6’4, it is the same height as them!
What yarn did I use to make the Titania shawl?
As with a lot of my designs, the yarn came before the shawl. Sometimes it just tells me what it wants to be. You know how it is with yarn! It has powers.
I used a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece. My shawl was made using The Definitely on purpose Unicorn by Black Stag yarn and fibre. It’s a bluefaced leicster and silk blend 4ply yarn. There;s a 55% Bluefaced Leictester and 45% silk in every skein, so this really is ‘special’ yarn. You can read more about it here.
Pictured: A close up of The Definitely On Purpose Unicorn.
If you can’t get this yarn, I can recommend some here that will work just as well for the silkiness and the drape:
Valley Yarns Charlemont: This is 60% Merino Wool 20% Silk 20% Polyamide, 401m (439yds)/100g (3.53oz), 4 Ply and will do the job just as well as the yarn I used for my crochet shawl. It is £16.49 a skein and comes in a range of colours. It is pictured here in Mulberry.
King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply: This is actually a really lovely, silky cotton yarn with good drape. It doesn’t pill as much as merino based yarns do, so it’s not only a great budget yarn but it’s a good yarn to work with. It’s 100% Cotton, 160m (175yds)/50g (1.76oz), 4 Ply. You will need approximately 5-6 balls of this, but at £3.09 a ball, it’s a great affordable choice, coming in at half the price of the Valley Yarns option.
Cascade Yarns 220 Fingering: This is another great choice if you’re wanting to use a natural fibre. This is 100% wool and you get 250m (275yd) per 50g skein. You’d therefore need 4 skeins of this to make the shawl. It’s £4.99 a skein, putting it in the mid-range of yarn prices mentioned here.
An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.
With only a two stitch pattern repeat, this shawl should be nice and repetitive for you to work on. As it works into the chain spaces rather than the chains, it is also speedy compared with crocheting row by row into every stitch.
Pictured: The Titania shawl photographed from the back when worn horizontally across the shoulders.
Other yarn ideas for the Titania crochet shawl pattern.
Let’s have a look at the different yarns that dome of my testers have used already to make this shawl. Below are samples made by my crochet testers.
This shawl sample was made by Suzanne (Sluvs2knit on Ravelry) and uses Alize Diva Ombre Batik 7370 which is a 4ply gradient cake yarn. I think it’s worked up beautifully and shows off the shawl’s qualities.
If you’re looking for something warmer, you could try Eden Cottage Yarns Tempo 4ply as Elsa has used here. This colourway is called Woodland and you can read more about it here. This is a gorgeous colour and fibre for autumn! I think hand dyed looks exceptional here too.
Pictured: A close up of the Titania shawl using Tempo 4ply.
I hope you enjoyed seeing the samples from my testers. I certainly did! Which is your favourite?
See below for the full crochet shawl pattern.
Titania
Named after the Queen of the Fairies in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Titania is a graceful, delicate rectangular wrap with the strength and structure to hold up through cooler months. From the Greek meaning “Great One”, Titania is possibly the loveliest crochet piece I feel I have ever designed. I chose a Silk / Bluefaced Leicester blend as both fibres are known for their sheen, strength and drape. This shawl hangs in a way that reminds me of water and its movement. The v stitches create a flower-like shape and run symmetrically either side of the central panel, like a reflection on still water. Feel every bit ethereal when you wear this piece.
An adventurous beginner can create this beautiful shawl as it requires the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Please use my handy US/UK crochet terms guide if you’re unsure of anything.
Glossary
Ch
Make a chain.
Ch sp
Chain space.
Dc
Double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through another 2 loops on hook.
Hdc
Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 3 loops on hook.
Sk
Skip the next stitch(es).
St(s)
Stitch(es).
V st
Make a double crochet stitch, chain 1 and make another double crochet stitch into the same chain or chain space.
Dbl v st
Make 2 double crochet stitches into the chain space, chain 1 and make 2 more double crochet stitches into the same space.
Materials:
Black Stag Yarns The definitely on purpose Unicorn – BFL/Silk Fibre: 55% Superwash Blue Faced Leicester, 45% Silk; 4 ply, 438 yards / 400m per 3.5 oz / 100g skein. 3 skeins.
G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge
4.5 dbl v sts and 9 rows to 4 in / 10cm gauge square using G-7 (4.5mm) hook.
Finished measurements when blocked
19.5in (49.5cm) wide and 80in (204cm) long.
Notes:
Always ch 2 before starting a hdc row, and ch 3 when starting a v stitch row. Every row ends with an individual Dc st to help the shawl maintain a rectangular shape.
All terms are given in US terminology.
The shawl is worked horizontally beginning with the hdc centre panel. After one side of the pattern is worked, we work into the base of the centre stitches on the other side of the work. This creates the symmetrical effect.
Instructions
Starting with centre panel, ch 244 (2 chs count as turning ch)
Turn.
(Alternatively, work a hdc chainless foundation row of 242 sts.)
Starting with the 4th ch from hook, work 242 hdc. Ch 2 (counts as first st) turn.
Work four more hdc rows in the same way (242 sts and 5 rows in total). On the final row, do not ch 2.
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as edge Dc), turn, Sk 2, v st in next ch, *Sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 4: As Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3-4 eight more times.
Finish with one more v st row. Fasten off.
Turn piece around and rejoin yarn to the first hdc st of the first row. Ch 3.
Working into the base of the first hdc row:
Row 1: V st in 7th ch from hook (ch 3 counts as edge Dc), *sk 2, v st in next ch; repeat from * to last 3 chs. Sk 2 and Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Dbl v st into every v st ch sp. Work one Dc into last st. Ch 3, turn.
Row 3: V st into every ch sp along, ending with a Dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.
If you’ve been looking at sock knitting patterns and techniques lately, you may have noticed that as well as several styles of sock, there are also different styles of heels!
I’m going to show you how to make and turn the square (Dutch) heel which is my favourite sock heel of all time. It’s such a convenient type of heel that I use it in all of my sock knitting patterns.
The square heel is shaped by making some simple increases, short row shaping and decreases. Don’t be put off by ‘short rows’ as it is simply knitting to a gap, turning around and knitting back to the next gap. It’s very easy to do once you understand the basics. I use M1R and M1L to increase the stitches.
Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable?
A square heel sits just under the heel of your foot. As the skin is usually harder here, I wouldn’t say that you can feel the edges of the heel underfoot. This experience could be different for you though! Some people who have a higher instep might prefer a bigger heel such as the flap and gusset heel but I’d still recommend trying all heels before your write any of them off.
This square heel is a neat convenient sock heel and is quite hard wearing too. If you just want a pair of classic knit socks that are a workhorse through cooler months, you have to try this heel.
Is there a heel flap and gusset?
Not quite. Increasing for the heel takes place as you are knitting the sock leg. That’s the gusset part! There is some flat knitting involved (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) when actually turning the heel but you never come away from the rest of the sock. There is no need to pick up any stitches along the sides of the heel. It is integrated into the sock. When it comes to decreasing back down to your original stitch count, you just make some decreases and some careful slipping of stitches to ensure that you don’t create any holes.
Is the square heel adjustable?
Yes, it is. Just add a stitch either side until you get to the desired width or if you have narrower heels, don’t increase as often as the pattern tells you to.
Here’s how to do a square heel. This example is from the advent mini sock pattern which can be found here.
This example heel is from my free sock knitting pattern here.
Increasing for heel:
Round 1: M1R, PM (marker 1), K16, PM (marker 2), M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Round 2: Knit all sts.
Round 3: Knit to marker 1, M1R, SM, Knit to marker 2, SM, M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 2 times, until 8 new stitches have been created.
You now have 24 sts for the heel, 16 sts for the instep and 40 sts in total.
Decreasing for the heel
Row 1: Knit to marker 1, SM, K11, SKP, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.
Row 2: P7, P2tog. Turn.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before gap, SKP. Turn.
Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 2 times.
There you have it- a square heel.
You have decreased back to the original stitch count: 16 sts for both the heel and the instep, and 32 sts in total. You should be right side facing, with marker 1 on your right-hand needle.
‘Fixing gaps’ round: Remove marker 1, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1R and slip the bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to marker 2, remove marker, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1L and slip the twisted bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of round.
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Have you started reading crochet patterns but you’re not sure where to put your crochet hook? Here I’ll show you where to put your hook in crochet.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
Stitch tutorials on Youtube tend to be standalone videos, meaning they are not about a specific pattern. They show you how to do the stitch at the basic level but if you are looking at a pattern, you’ll find variations of that same stitch. For example, if I am showing you how to do the V stitch, I might do it using double crochet (UK treble) but in a pattern, I may say that the v stitch is made using half double crochet (UK half treble). This changes from pattern to pattern and the designer should always explain how to make the desired stitch if it varies from one of the basic stitches. This is the same for where you are supposed to put your hook. Not all patterns will want you to put your hook under both loops. Some will specify back loop or front loop.
I’ll show you where to put your hook when you’re doing crochet.
This example is using a half double crochet (UK half treble) piece. This example can be used for any pattern that uses any of these basic stitches:
US term
UK term
Single crochet (Sc)
Double crochet (Dc)
Half double crochet (Hdc)
Half treble crochet (Htr)
Double crochet (Dc)
Treble crochet (Tr)
Triple crochet (Tr)
Double treble crochet (Dtr)
Don’t know what any of these are? Try my basic stitch guide here.
Example 1: Hdc stitch not specified.
In this scenario the pattern will just say something along the lines of “Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop” and if you’re a beginner you might think “insert where?”. In this scenario, if the designer has not specified, it means under both loops.
If you look at the top of your stitches, you’ll see that they form a “v” shape. It’s similar to how a knitted stitch looks in stockinette. Imagine that the v has two legs. You need to put your hook under both of those legs.
See how there are two legs on the hook? This still only counts as 3 loops on the hook but I’ve made sure that I’ve gone under both legs of the stitch.
Example 2: The pattern specifies back loop only.
Back loop only is where you insert your hook into the back leg of the v. This is clearly explained in the pattern and the designer wants you to do this to achieve a particular texture.
Example 3: The pattern specifies front loop only.
In this case you need to insert your hook into the front leg of the v. The designer will have specified because it’s crucial to the design. There will be a certain texture that needs to be achieved.
The front loop is the leg of the v that is nearest you. This will also be referred to as the chain or the stitch.
Still not clear on where you need to put your hook?
If the pattern is confusing you, try to get in touch with the designer. Sometimes it could just need spelling out, or there may be a mistake they don’t know about yet.
Want to get started with crochet?
Head to Minerva Crafts to find a range of crochet hooks to help you get started.
Gauge, also known as ‘tension’ is the measurement of stitches to rows or rounds. Gauge is important and here’s why you need to check it.
This is important for several reasons but checking gauge can:
Ensure you are using a suitable size hook or needle.
Ensure that you will have the right amount of yarn.
Help you understand how the yarn behaves.
Helps you to work out whether the item will fit/be the right size.
It’s not just a hoop to jump through. If you are making a garment and have gone to all the trouble of spending your money on 6-8 balls of good yarn, why skip this part? What if you cast off and it doesn’t and will never fit you?
Common anti-gauge statements:
1. “I just accept the mistakes”
This is baffling to me, personally, because if a mistake could be avoided early on, I would take the chance. The gauge swatch is your crystal ball. It shows you how things will work out in the future!
We will all make mistakes when the project gets going. We could drop a stitch, accidentally repeat a row or skip a step but to willingly risk a mistake? Don’t do that.
2. “You don’t need to check gauge for shawls”
That’s interesting. Will you not run out of yarn if your tension is much tighter than the gauge stated on the pattern? I would think so. Best to check and be sure.
3. “It’s a waste of my time and yarn”
You could perceive it that way but the tension square can be unravelled and used for the main project. You don’t have to order 1 ball, do a tension square and then order the other 5. Just reuse the yarn!
Even if the yarn has been blocked, you can still unravel and use it again.
4. “I’ve used the exact yarn and hook recommended so it will be fine”
That’s very optimistic of you but tension varies from person to person and can be altered daily. Don’t take the risk. My favourite lines in a pattern include “Check tension to ensure success”. This all depends on you, not the materials or the tools.
How to I measure my tension?
To measure, take a measuring tape, ruler, or a square gauge (pictured) and measure across the stitches for 4 inches (10cm). Then measure the amount of rows per 4 inches (10cm).
In the above example, there are 5 v stitches and 6 rows per 10cm (4in) square.
All good patterns will give you desired measurements over a 10cm/4in square. What you should then do is knit or crochet that many stitches and that many rows and then measure it. Where does your swatch compare?
I have more stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too tight. If it is too tight, you will end up with the project being much smaller than it should be. The fabric could also be stiff and unflattering, depending on the item. What you need to do is increase the size of your tool by 0.5mm. Keep going up until you get the gauge that is correct.
If your work is coming out as tighter or smaller than it should be, you will likely run out of yarn before the project is finished.
I have fewer stitches than the designer’s swatch.
This means that your tension is too loose. If you’re making a garment, it will be too big! The stitches will look loose with lots of loops visible. What you need to do is go down a needle or hook size to match. Start by going down in increments of 0.5mm. You may need to make a few swatches to find your tension but it will be worth it in the end.
If your work is too loose, you will likely have yarn left over at the end of the project.
I have more or fewer rows than recommended, but my stitch count is perfect. What do I do?
In this scenario, you have a few choices. You can either:
Change needle type ie switch from aluminium to bamboo. This can affect the height of the stitches.
Change yarn type. It could be too thin or too thick. Have a look at wraps per inch as opposed to yarn weight, as not all DK and Aran are the same thickness. To find out more about wpi, Eden cottage yarns has a helpful blog post here
Block it. You could get to 4 inches without an extra row by blocking.
Work to the measurements on the pattern. Instead of counting the rows, get your measuring tape out and stop when you’ve reached the measurements it is supposed to be e.g. “work until piece measures 30cm/12in).
Why you have to find your own tension
Don’t feel put off because you’re using a 10mm hook but the pattern says 6mm. This just means that you have really tight tension. Tension may ease (or tighten) with practise but working with your individual tension level is absolutely fine.
Think of the tension square as the cat flap. This cat flap only accepts cats of a certain size. Gerbils can’t get in and neither can a husky. As long as you meet those dimensions needed, the cat can come through the cat flap. You can use whatever hook or needles you need to in order to do this. Using a 5mm needle for a 4mm sock pattern recommendation doesn’t mean you’re wrong. It means you need to give yourself more width to allow for your negative tension.
Do I need to block the swatch?
Many designers recommend blocking your swatch so that you can see how the yarn behaves. Some yarn blooms and other yarn shrinks, so block any natural (or part natural) fibres to see how they will behave. This is important because although your tension may be perfect with wool unblocked, blocking the garment could result in it becoming too big or too small.
In patterns the instructions for garments will say “block to measurements” so block the swatch too!
Blocking acrylic yarns is optional. If the listed materials in the pattern are acrylic, it may not have been blocked unless explicitly stated. If the listed materials include a natural fibre, it will have been blocked. Treat the swatch as it was intended.
How to measure your yarn’s thickness and match it with the required tension.
In this blog post I’m talking all things yarn weight and why it matters. Knitting or crocheting with whatever yarn you have to hand may be an option for you if you just want to make something without a pattern but that will not be the case for other things. Getting the yarn weight right is vital for success in knitting.
When you’re new to knitting or crochet, it may seem that simply using the yarn weight suggested on the ball band will be fine. Sometimes it will, but sometimes it won’t. Here’s a tutorial showing you how to measure yarns to make sure you’re using the best thickness for your individual tension and technique.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
If you’re knitting something with a pattern, it is very helpful to use the yarn weight suggested and here’s why:
Thickness of yarn will affect the finished look.
Meterage is usually lower the thicker the yarn meaning you may need more than you thought.
The drape of the final fabric varies.
The size of the finished project will vary.
The needle or hook required may not match.
If you only have 4mm needles and want to use a chunky yarn, you’re going to end up with a really dense, stiff piece of fabric. That will not work if you’re wanting to wear it, for example.
Do I have to use exactly the same yarn as the pattern states?
No, you don’t. Every knitter has a budget unique to them and there is a lot of personal preference to fibre types anyway, so don’t ever feel that you have to use exactly the same yarn. Yarns come and go and get discontinued frequently (especially commercial yarns) so by the time you come to knitting from a pattern, it may not be available anyway!
You can read more about how to substitute yarn here.
Do I need to have more than one pair of needles?
Yes. I would tell every knitting beginner to invest in a needle range of 3mm-10mm (US3-US15) purely because you’ll come across a range of requirements. Even a DK cardigan or hat pattern that asks for 4mm needles will want you to also have some 3.25mm for the ribbing of the cuffs and button bands.
Have more than one pair of needles so that you can match them to the yarn you have. If someone has kindly sent you away with a bundle of gift yarn to help you get started, you’re going to need to anticipate the requirement for different needle sizes.
Needle sizes ensure that the gauge swatch is correct. This is also referred to as tension in knitting patterns.
How to do a gauge swatch
To do a gauge swatch, take the needles that are recommended by the pattern and take yarn in the size recommended by the pattern.
Knit at least the amount that the pattern states. Ideally, you should knit a few more stitches so that you’re measuring more than just the very outer edges of the square. If the tension is stated as “22 sts by 30 rows” I would cast on and knit 30 stitches and 35 rows just to make sure that I can measure it accurately with a standard knitting gauge ruler like this one here.
If you struggle to get an accurate gauge measurement from measuring with tape or a ruler, you can always use a knitting gauge such as this Knitpro one here.
Your swatch will probably curl up and misbehave at first. What some designers recommend is blocking the swatch to measurements. This is really handy for learning about how your yarn will behave when the item has been washed. You won’t notice much of a difference with synthetic yarns but I would certainly recommend this method for natural fibres or synthetics that are blended with natural fibres.
Your gauge swatch tells you a few things about your yarn weight:
It tells you whether you’re using the right needle size.
It tells you if you’re using a yarn thick or thin enough.
It shows you how much yarn you’ll eat up per inch.
It gives you an idea of how the finished item will look if you knit it in that yarn.
It gives you a chance to see how the yarn will behave after washing.
If your stitches and rows are off, there are some solutions here for you:
Problem one:
If you have more stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go up a needle size. You can start by going up by 0.5mm and work your way from there.
Problem two:
If you have fewer stitches and rows than the tension on the pattern, you need to go down a needle size. As with the previous instruction, do this by 0.5mm increments.
Does it matter if my stitches are the right size?
Yes, it really does.
Your gauge swatch will tell you if what you’re making will actually fit you or be the size it is supposed to be. If you knit a toy rabbit in 6mm needles and chunky yarn but the pattern calls for 3.5mm needles and DK yarn, you’re going to end up with a much bigger rabbit that requires much more yarn!
To swatch or not to swatch?
Many knitters will say they don’t swatch and that they don’t mind if the finished item and that’s their choice but as a designer I can assure you that dp=oing a swatch saves so much time, hassle and questions. If you’re also a beginner, it’s another practice square before the big event!
In conclusion, you can’t just use any yarn weight unless you’ve got a really clever pattern that allows you to knit in any weight. These patterns will have several tensions in the pattern so the chances of you meeting at least one of them are high! This isn’t common practice though and won’t work for everything.
Learn how to make this satisfying v stitch sweater in the round.
This pattern is free with ads on this blog post. If you would prefer an ad-free download, you can get one here.
This article uses affiliate links. This means that if you make a purchase from a link in this post, I receive a small commission.
The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.
V stitch crochet
Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!
This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.
This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.
I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends! You can read more about the yarnhere
This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.
The V Stitch Sweater
The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet.
Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!
This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater.
This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round.
About the yarn
I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends!
This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.
Glossary of crochet stitches
Ch
Chain
The chain is the loop where you insert your crochet hook. Chains also make the first stitch of the row. Make a slipknot, yarn over and pull through the loop. This creates a chain.
Ch sp
Chain space
The space or gap that has been created by stitches in the previous row.
Dc
Double crochet
Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2.
RS
Right side(s)
The side of the fabric that is to be shown worn on the person, on the outside of the finished garment.
Sk
Skip
Skip as instructed.
Sl
Slip stitch
Insert hook, yarn over hook, pull through all loops.
St
Stitch
The stitch: e.g. double crochet, v stitch.
V st
V stitch
Make a double crochet into the chain or chain space, chain 1 and make another double crochet into the same chain or chain space. The two dc stitches create a ‘V’ shape.
US terms are used throughout this pattern. If you need a reminder, you can use my crochet terms guide here.
Sizes are colour coded for your convenience: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL
In parts where size is not mentioned, this means that the instructions are the same for all sizes e.g. cuff and edging.
You can adjust the length of the garment at the waist and sleeves by removing/adding 1 or 2 rows/rounds. 1 row is 1 in/2.5cm.
Measurements
Bust measurement
Finished measurement
Full back length
Sleeve
Yarn (per 100g ball)
S/32in/72cm
33in/84cm
21.5in/55cm
20.5in/52cm
4
M/34in/862cm
35in/90cm
22.5in/57cm
21in/54cm
4
L/36in/91cm
37in/94cm
22.5in/57cm
21in/54cm
5
XL/40in/120cm
39in/98cm
24.5in/62cm
21in/54cm
5
2XL/44in130cm
40in/102cm
25.5in/65cm
22.5in/56cm
6
3XL/48in/140cm
42in/106cm
25.5in/65cm
22.5in56cm
6
4XL/52in/133cm
45in/114cm
26in/66cm
22.5in56cm
6.5
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit (240m/262 yds per 100g/3.5oz ball; 100% Premium Acrylic) 4/4/5/5/6/6/6.5 balls. I used the colour sapphire.
5mm (H) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Gauge:
5 v sts and 6 rows to 4”/10cm on 5mm (H) crochet hook.
Body:
Ch 123/135/141/147/153/159/171, sl 1st ch and last ch to join in the round.
Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st) and dc in every ch, taking care not to twist sts. Sl to join in the round.
Repeat last row 2/2/2/3/3/3/3 more times.
V stitch rounds
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. (1 v st completed). *Sk2, v st in next st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round. 41/45/47/49/51/53/57v sts.
Round 2: Ch 4, dc in first v ch sp (counts as 1st v st). *V st in every v ch sp around; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.
Repeat round 2 for 18/20/20/22/22/22/23 rounds, or until body measures 38/40/42/44/44/44cm (15/16.5/16.5/17/17/17/17.5in).
19/21/21/23/23/23/24 rounds in total.
Split for front/back
There will be an even number of v sts at the back of the garment and an odd amount of sts at the front. This is because 1 v st will be left unworked in the centre front to help shape the v neck. If it helps, place a removable marker on the centre front v st. Divide the body in half.
Back (worked flat)
Row 1 (RS)- Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. Work 15/17/17/17/17/19/21more v sts. Turn. (16/18/18/18/18/20/22 v sts in total) 4/4/5/6/7/6/6sts isolated for armholes on either side of the piece.
Work 8/8/8/8/9/9/9more rows. Turn
Back neck shaping
Work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts. Fasten off. Sk 6 sts for neck, rejoin and work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts to end. Fasten off.
(10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total).
Front:
Sk 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 v sts and reattach yarn. Work17/19/19/19/19/21/23 v sts. Turn
Left front shaping:
Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11v sts. Turn, leaving 9/10/10/10/10/11/12v sts unworked.
Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). V st to end.
Neck shaping
Row 1- Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). Work 6/7/7/7/7/8/9 v sts, leaving 1 unworked. Turn.
(7/8/8/8/8/9/10 v sts total)
Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.
Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8v sts remaining.
Work even for 2/2/2/2/2/2/2 rows.
10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Right front shaping
Rejoin yarn at marker 4. Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11 v sts. Turn, leaving 1 st unworked in centre front.
Row 1- Sl across 1 v st, v st in next 7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts. Turn. (7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts total)
Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.
Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8v sts remaining.
Work even for 2 rows.
10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Neck after shaping.
Join shoulder seams
With sl st join or a tapestry needle, join the shoulder seams.
Collar
With new yarn, join at the top right of the v neck and ch 3. Dc in centre of every horizontal dc when working down the right side of the neck, dc in top of every dc and centre of every v when working across the centre front, and in the side of every dc working back up the left side. Finally, work a dc into the centre of every v and top of every dc across the back of the neck. Sl st to join the round. Fasten off.
Vest- armholes
Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:
At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.
Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st), sk 1 ch sp (or side dc). V st, sk 1 ch sp, v st, *sk 1 ch sp, v st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.
Sleeves:
At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side.
Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows:
Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st). V st another 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts evenly across armhole. Sl to join the round.
Next round and every following round:
Ch 4, dc in same ch. V st in every v ch sp around. Sl to join the round.
Continue until sleeve measures 48/50/50/50/52/52/52cm (19/20/20/20/21/21/21in). 24/25/25/25/26/26/26 v sts
Cuff
4 rounds of dc in total. Try the sleeve on to see if you would prefer a longer or shorter cuff.
Sl st and ch 2, dc into every ch around. Sl st to close round.
Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, sk 1; repeat from * to end.
Dc in every dc.
Repeat round 3 once more.
Fasten off. Cut yarn.
Finishing
Fasten off. Weave in ends and enjoy.
If you loved this v stitch sweater pattern, let me know in the comments! happy hooking!
If you’re just learning to crochet, you may be surprised to see how many knit-like effects you can create with your crochet hook. Single crochet rib (also known as double crochet rib in UK terms) is a really quick and effective way to add rib detailing to your projects.
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Crochet rib is a major detail in the Beyond cardigan and as part of this crochet along, I’m doing stitch tutorials to help you achieve your goals of making your first crochet cardigan!
Make your chain as instructed by the pattern. Here’s an example chain of 22.
Step 2:
Insert your hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. That does not include the chain on the hook. Make a single crochet stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook.
Single crochet in every chain to end. 21 stitches.
Step 3:
Chain 1 and turn. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from hook but this time do it in the back loop only. Single crochet in every back loop to end.
Step 4:
Chain 1, turn and work a single crochet stitch into the back loop of every single crochet stitch to end.
Step 5:
Repeat step 4 until you have achieved the desired amount of rows.
Your crochet rib will look like this when you turn it from horizontal to vertical.
