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Free Beginner Granny Square Blanket Pattern
Crochet this beginner granny square blanket with a soft DK yarn for extra cosiness.
I’ve used Cygnet Pure Wool Superwash DK for my granny square blanket as it is soft, durable and feels lovely in a blanket.
In this article, I will guide you through making your first ever crochet blanket! Please note that I am a Woolbox affiliate, and if you choose to purchase the yarn via the links I have provided, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
How to crochet a basic granny square:

Although this video doesn’t show the exact same granny square as the one listed in the pattern, watching this video should help you to get the hang of it! All granny squares are the same in the general principle: start in the centre and grow each corner. It doesn’t matter what stitches you do, they’re all going the same way!
Stitches you need to know in order to make this granny square blanket.
Double crochet (UK Treble)

Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Start your practice by making a square of dc. Start by chaining 15. (12 ch + 3 ch for turning ch)
To fasten off: Just pull the last loop through and cut!
Beginner crochet has its hiccups. Here’s some troubleshooting:
1. My piece is getting narrower.
This could be a tension issue e.g. when you chain, you are pulling too tight and creating small, impenetrable loops. It could also be that you are forgetting your turning chain at the end. Another possibility is that when you turn the work around, you aren’t crocheting into the 4th chain from the hook. Always check to make sure you are starting in the 4th chain from hook.
1. My piece is getting wider.
The answer is usually that there are too many double crochet stitches either end. Sometimes when we turn the work around, we can miscount and put the next dc into the 3rd chain from hook, not the 4th. This then gives us an increase at the end of the work. For the first few rows, you really have to check where you are putting your hook. Count the amount of crochet stitches that you have too. Even the pros sometimes add an extra stitch without noticing!
1. My stitches don’t look tall enough.
Make sure that you are following the dc instructions. Yarn over before inserting the hook every time.
1. I can’t crochet into the chain,
This could be because your chain is too narrow. If you are pulling the yarn too tightly (common with beginners) you won’t be able to use the chain. Try loosening your grip or use a hook 1mm larger when chaining.
1. My piece is starting to become rounded.
You are probably putting too many dc stitches into either end, and accidentally working into the sides rather than just across the top. Stop, take a deep breath and start again. Crocheting when you are tired or distracted isn’t worth it. Trust me! I’ve done it many times.
Master granny squares with these tips:
Tips:
1. Crochet patterns are always written with abbreviations. Make yourself familiar with the glossary on a pattern, as it will explain what each abbreviation means.
2. If preferred, you can keep track of where you are by marking each row/round with a pencil.
3. Always check patterns to see if they are written using US crochet terms or UK crochet terms. It makes a big difference!
Materials needed:
- A 4mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- 1kg of DK yarn. I have used Cygnet Pure Wool Superwash DK. (50g per ball)
For your granny square blanket, you will need:
1. 5 balls of Navy for colour A. (250g)
2. 2 balls of Gold for colour B (100g)
3. 2 balls of lt. Grey for colour C (100g)
4. 4 balls of Copper for colour D (200g)
5. 7 balls of cream for colour E. (350g)
If you are going to substitute yarn brands, make sure that the meterage on the ball is the same or similar. Check out my article ‘The best granny square yarns’ to find the substitutes I recommend.
Glossary
Ch(ain) : Make a chain. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through loop.
Ch(ain) space
Dc: Double crochet. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Dc5tog: Yarn over as though to make a dc. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops on hook (2 loops), yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops on hook (3 loops), yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook leaving remaining loops on hook (4 loops) yarn over, insert hook, yrn over and pull through 2 loops, leave remaining loops on hook (5 loops) yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leave remaining loops (6 loops) on hook. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all remaining 6 loops on hook.
Sl st: Insert hook into chain, yarn over and pull through. No height should have been added.
Part 2: Starting the squares
What you will need:
1. Your chosen yarn in order of appearance. I have started with navy blue to match the blanket sample.
2. 1 pair of scissors to cut the yarn.
3. A 4mm crochet hook, or the right sized hook for your yarn.
Round 1:
- With colour A, chain 4 and sl st into the 1st chain (4th chain from hook) to make a ring.
- Chain 2 (counts as 1st dc). Yarn over hook. Work dc5tog into the ring.
This is your first bobble stitch cluster.
- Chain 2 (you may want to chain 3 if it seems too tight) and work 5dctog into the centre of the ring.
- Repeat two more times. Sl st into top of 1st dc cluster to close the round.
Round 2:
1. Sl st across 1st dc cluster until you get to the 1st chain space.
2. Using clasp weft join, or by tying colour B to the strand of colour A, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog.
1. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. Chain 1 and work 5dctog into the same chain space.
2. Repeat step 4 until you have 4 corners. Each corner should have 2 bobble stitch clusters. Sl st into the top of the first cluster to close the round.
Round 3:
At this point, you will now have to work a single crochet bobble stitch between corners. Look out for it!
1. Using clasp weft join, or by tying colour C to the strand of colour B, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. This should not be a corner.
1. Chain 2. Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space. Chain 2.
1. Complete the round by repeating steps 7 and 8 until you finish the last corner. Sl st to join with the 1st bobble cluster of the round.
Round 4-6:
1. Using clasp weft join, or by tying the next colour to the strand of the previous colour, yarn over and insert hook into the chain space.Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space.
1. Chain 2 (or 3 if it is too tight/short) and dc5tog into the next chain space. This should not be a corner.
1. Repeat step 11 (Repeat once more for round 5 and twice more for row 6).
1. Chain 2. Make a dc 5tog. Chain 1 and work another dc5tog into the same chain space. Chain 2.
1. Complete the round by repeating steps 10 and 11 until you finish the last corner. Sl st to join with the 1st bobble cluster of the round.
1. Using the border colour, chain 3 into the first chain space of the round. Make 2 more double crochet stitches.
2. Dc into the top of every following bobble stitch, and dc twice into every chain space (2 dc for corner chain spaces).
3. Sl st with the 1st dc of the round to close the square.
Repeat all steps a total of 24 times.
Joining your granny squares:
We join the squares using slip stitch (sl st) which is a crochet technique that you have learned already when making the granny square. The only difference here is that the slip stitches will become the seam rather than the end of a round.
When you use a slip stitch join, one side of the piece (right side) will lie flat and the other will have a ridge (wrong side) this is completely normal and is to be expected. Just make sure that you join all of your squares right side to right side and we won’t have a problem!
More help on joining squares is here.
Written instructions:
Place your two squares right sides together. The stitches should all lie parallel.
Working with outside loops only, sl st each st across to join. Make sure that you are only picking up the outside loops as this will affect the overall look of the square.
To join:. Starting at top right of the squares held together, insert your hook into the first outer loop of the square closest to you, picking up a loop. Insert your hook into the outer loop on the square furthest from you, picking up a second loop. 2 loops on hook. Now yarn over and pull through all 2 loops on hook. 1st slip stitch done.
Repeat this to the end ensuring that you have joined all stitches to the very corner of the square.
Join 4 squares together to make each panel. You should have 6 panels in total.
Making up:
You should now have 6 panels that consist of 4 squares each.
Join panels together using slip stitch. Take the time to ensure that all panels are right sides together when you are joining. The ridge should be on the wrong side of the blanket.
The finished blanket should be 4 squares wide and 6 squares long.
Border:
Working the border is simple. You do exactly the same as you do when you apply a border to each granny square.
The only difference is that you are making a dc into the dc below, just as you did when practising dc at the beginning.
1. Using the border colour, join the new yarn and chain 3 (This is the first dc). Dc in every stitch to the end. Sl st to join the round.
Repeat once more,
You can make your border as thick as you want. I made mine with 2 rounds of navy blue, but I could have easily done 3 or 4.
You can now block the blanket if you wish. Just ensure that it lies or hangs flat, and pin the corners to sharpen their angles.
Weave in ends and enjoy!
July 8, 2025
What is a chain space in crochet? Here’s how to crochet between the stitches.
If you’ve wondered what a chain space is, look no further. Find out what the ch sp is in crochet patterns. This post will help you understand this technique better and apply it to your own crochet. This is a beginner crochet tutorial for people who are new to reading crochet patterns, or want to try more elaborate crochet patterns such as lace and filet crochet.
You can also use this information to help you with your granny squares.
If you’re new to crochet, you may have come across ‘chain space’, often mentioned in a pattern as ch sp. You may have thought ‘what does that mean?’ In this post, I’m going to show you what a crochet chain space is:
🧶Exactly what a chain space is.
🧶Where you will find one in your crochet pattern.
🧶Exactly where you’re supposed to put your crochet hook.
What is a chain space (ch sp) in crochet? How do we know where the pattern wants us to insert our hook?
A chain space is made when you skip a stitch or several stitches. You’ll see a lot of chain spaces used in granny squares or lacy crochet projects.
It can be really intimidating to come across this when you’re starting out, but it’s easier than it seems on paper! In crochet patterns, ch sp is used meaning one space. If you are not familiar with any of the stitches mentioned in this tutorial, you can find my handy crochet stitch guide by clicking here.
Working into the chain space can be a lot of fun as it means your project is moving quickly. You may feel like you’re just working through air. You’ll be able to make more intricate designs. This method is useful for filet crochet and lace crochet, as it looks like lace, but is half the work!
Should my chain space stitches be different?
No. If you are asked to make a double crochet into the chain space, just make a double crochet. The chain space replaces the individual chain you may have otherwise been working in. See my example of where it goes here:
This is a double crochet stitch being worked into a chain space.
Other examples of where you need to use spaces to make the design:
In this image, you can see that V stitch is constructed by working into the centre of every v ch sp across the row. Once you’ve set up the first row, it’s a breeze!
This is why the v stitch is one of my favourite crochet stitches of all time. With the V stitch, you don’t need to worry about counting chains and stitches because you’re just working into the chain space. Try it, and you’ll see what I mean! Why not have a go at a pattern that features the V stitch? I’ve shared some ideas below:
This is the v stitch pullover. This entire jumper is worked in v stitch. It’s much quicker to whip up than working a dc into every chain, for example.
Using chain spaces also means that projects with finer yarns take less time too. For example, the Titania shawl is a very big shawl but doesn’t take months to make because of the amount of openwork.
The Titania Shawl uses open spaces to create lace!
Chain space and its descriptions in patterns.
In my patterns I always describe the chain space as this:
Ch Sp: Chain space. The gap created between stitches.
This literally means the ‘gap’ that has been made between stitches or chains. Scroll down for a detailed look at where the space is and what you’re supposed to do with it.
If you look at the image above, you’ll see that some chains have been skipped along the bottom row. This has created a chain space for you to work your next cluster of stitches into.
Other ways chain space may appear in patterns:
Ch-3 sp: The number here could change from pattern to pattern but it basically means to work your stitch into each space that has been created by 3 chains. It is just specifying what the space looks like. In this example, it has 3 chains above it. In the pattern pictured above I might say “Ch-2 sp” meaning, insert the hook into the space created by the 2 chains made in the row before. This will also appear if there are other types of stitches or clusters being used in the same row or round.
I hope this article helped!
Thanks for reading. If you’d like to learn more about crochet and crochet patterns, here are some more posts for you to explore.
Now that you know what a chain space is in crochet, why not try some of my patterns?
- V stitch sweater pattern
- Titania Lace Crochet Shawl
- Granny Squares
FAQ
Q. I can’t see the chain spaces easily. Why is this?
A. When you’re using a bulky or novelty yarn, it can be hard to see the gaps in your crochet. You may want to use a thinner yarn while you’re learning.
Something that also happens is that your tension is too tight, and as a result you don’t have enough space between stitches. Move up a hook size and see how that goes.
Q. My v stitches are too floppy. They don’t sit straight in my fabric. What can I do to fix them?
A. You might need to adjust your tension by going down a hook size. Loose tension can lead to really loose, open chains. They might need to be slightly tighter.

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June 11, 2025
How to get your granny squares right every time. Granny square help!
When I’ve been teaching my crochet students, often we will come across beginner problems. These are nothing to worry about and everybody makes mistakes when they’re starting out with crochet. If you’ve been making a granny square and it seems to be changing shape, curling, flopping or frilling, hopefully I can help with that!
With these simple methods, you can be sure that there is an easy fix for your granny square dilemma.
How to get your granny squares right every time. Here are some tips and tricks from Hanna, a crochet teacher and designer.
If you are new to crochet (or not so new) and have issues when it comes to making granny squares, there could be a few reasons why it’s not going well. Here I will talk about the most common reasons and I will offer solutions on how to address them.
Tension
Those who are new to crochet fall into the camps of too tight or too loose, mostly. This is normal and is a symptom of crochet being a brand new skill for you to learn. We cannot crochet like a pro after one youtube video. We all go wrong somewhere. For newcomers, it is usually tension. Here are three things that I advise:
1. Choose a bigger or smaller hook than what has been prescribed. If your squares are tight, curling up or looking round, it could be that your hook size is too small. If your square is really floppy and ruffling, it could be that the hook is too large. I always advise increasing by 0.5mm each time. For example, if I was to use DK yarn and a 4mm hook, the tension may be too tight, so I would have to use a 4.5mm hook to see a more relaxed tension. This is inevitable for some people. Some of us will always crochet tightly and some will always crochet loosely. This is why you need to look at your own stitches and see if they are smaller or larger than the pattern suggests. Adjust accordingly.
2. Make more chains than what is suggested. This is a simple trick and allows your corners to sit properly. If the pattern calls for one chain between your corner clusters, make 2. See how that works. If the pattern calls for 3 chains between clusters at the sides, perhaps chain 4 to help it relax. You will know what works when you see your square. Is it lying flat? Bingo.
3. What yarn you use can affect tension. Not all DK weight yarn is the same. Some are slimmer, some are bulkier. The category is quite broad. Take this into account when you are making your granny square. Also take into account the fibre. A standard acrylic such as Hayfield bonus may have less stretch and ability to relax after the square is made. Wool and cotton can be more forgiving after a soak and a block. If you have a tight square and it is acrylic, I would advise ripping back and starting again.
Click here to see the full granny square tutorial.
June 11, 2025