Tag: crochet sweater pattern

  • Crochet V stitch sweater: The Breeze Pullover.

    Crochet V stitch sweater: The Breeze Pullover.

    Learn how to make this satisfying v stitch sweater in the round.

    This pattern is free with ads on this blog post. If you would prefer an ad-free download, you can get one here.

    The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet. 

    V stitch crochet

    Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!

    This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater. 

    This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round. 

    I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends! You can read more about the yarn here

    This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin.

    V stitch crochet sweater pattern. Easy crochet patterns in the round. Modern crochet patterns for women. Aran weight projects. Worsted weight crochet patterns. V neck crochet sweater pattern pdf
    The V Stitch Sweater

    The Breeze top earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet. 

    Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!

    This sweater is available in seven sizes. Make it as a vest or as a long sleeved sweater. 

    This garment is constructed from the bottom up, with some flat work to shape the front and back neck. The sleeves are picked up and worked in the round. 

    About the yarn

    I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this top, which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft, with a subtle sheen. The self-striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends!

    This garment has negative ease. It stretches to fit your proportions with the bust and hip being equal width. Sample shown is size XL on a UK size 14 (US 10/EU 42) mannequin. 

    Glossary of crochet stitches

    ChChainThe chain is the loop where you insert your crochet hook. Chains also make the first stitch of the row. Make a slipknot, yarn over and pull through the loop. This creates a chain. 
    Ch spChain spaceThe space or gap that has been created by stitches in the previous row. 
    DcDouble crochetYarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2. 
    RSRight side(s)The side of the fabric that is to be shown worn on the person, on the outside of the finished garment. 
    SkSkipSkip as instructed.
    SlSlip stitchInsert hook, yarn over hook, pull through all loops. 
    StStitchThe stitch: e.g. double crochet, v stitch. 
    V st V stitch Make a double crochet into the chain or chain space, chain 1 and make another double crochet into the same chain or chain space. The two dc stitches create a ‘V’ shape. 

    US terms are used throughout this pattern. If you need a reminder, you can use my crochet terms guide here.  

    Sizes are colour coded for your convenience: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL 

    In parts where size is not mentioned, this means that the instructions are the same for all sizes e.g. cuff and edging.

    You can adjust the length of the garment at the waist and sleeves by removing/adding 1 or 2 rows/rounds. 1 row is 1 in/2.5cm.

    Measurements 

    Bust measurementFinished measurementFull back length Sleeve Yarn (per 100g ball)
    S/32in/72cm33in/84cm21.5in/55cm 20.5in/52cm 4
    M/34in/862cm35in/90cm22.5in/57cm 21in/54cm4
    L/36in/91cm37in/94cm 22.5in/57cm 21in/54cm5
    XL/40in/120cm 39in/98cm24.5in/62cm21in/54cm5
    2XL/44in130cm40in/102cm25.5in/65cm22.5in/56cm6
    3XL/48in/140cm 42in/106cm 25.5in/65cm22.5in56cm6
    4XL/52in/133cm45in/114cm 26in/66cm22.5in56cm6.5

    Materials: 

    • Worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit (240m/262 yds per 100g/3.5oz ball; 100% Premium Acrylic) 4/4/5/5/6/6/6.5 balls. 
    • 5mm (H) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge 
    • Tapestry needle 

    Gauge: 

    5 v sts and 6 rows to 4”/10cm on 5mm (H) crochet hook. 

    Body:


    Ch 123/135/141/147/153/159/171, sl 1st ch and last ch to join in the round. 

    Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc st) and dc in every ch, taking care not to twist sts. Sl to join in the round. 

    Repeat last row 2/2/2/3/3/3/3 more times. 

    V stitch rounds 

    Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. (1 v st completed). *Sk2, v st in next st; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round. 41/45/47/49/51/53/57 v sts.  

    Round 2: Ch 4, dc in first v ch sp (counts as 1st v st). *V st in every v ch sp around; repeat from * to end. Sl to join the round.

    Repeat round 2 for 18/20/20/22/22/22/23 rounds, or until body measures 38/40/42/44/44/44cm (15/16.5/16.5/17/17/17/17.5in). 

    19/21/21/23/23/23/24 rounds in total. 

    Split for front/back 

    There will be an even number of v sts at the back of the garment and an odd amount of sts at the front. This is because 1 v st will be left unworked in the centre front to help shape the v neck. If it helps, place a removable marker on the centre front v st. Divide the body in half.

    Back (worked flat)

    Row 1 (RS)- Ch 4 (counts as 1st half of v st), dc in 5th ch from hook. Work 15/17/17/17/17/19/21 more v sts. Turn. (16/18/18/18/18/20/22 v sts in total) 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 sts isolated for armholes on either side of the piece. 

    Work  8/8/8/8/9/9/9 more rows. Turn

    Back neck shaping

    Work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts. Fasten off. Sk 6 sts for neck, rejoin and work 5/6/6/6/6/7/7 v sts to end. Fasten off. 

    (10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total). 

    Front: 

    Sk 4/4/5/6/7/6/6 v sts and reattach yarn. Work 17/19/19/19/19/21/23 v sts. Turn

    Left front shaping: 

    Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11v sts. Turn, leaving 9/10/10/10/10/11/12v sts unworked. 

    Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). V st to end. 

    Neck shaping

    Row 1- Ch 4 and dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as 1st v st). Work 6/7/7/7/7/8/9 v sts, leaving 1 unworked. Turn. 

    (7/8/8/8/8/9/10 v sts total)

    Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn.

    Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8 v sts remaining. 

    Work even for 2/2/2/2/2/2/2 rows. 

    10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total.  

    Fasten off. Cut yarn.

    Right front shaping 

    Rejoin yarn at marker 4. Work 8/9/9/9/9/10/11 v sts. Turn, leaving 1 st unworked in centre front. 

    Row 1- Sl across 1 v st, v st in next 7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts. Turn. (7/8/8/8/8/9/9 v sts total)

    Row 2- Ch 4 and work v st to end. Turn. 

    Work last 2 rows until there are 5/6/6/6/6/7/8 v sts remaining. 

    Work even for 2 rows. 

    10/10/10/10/11/11/11 rows in total. 

    Fasten off. Cut yarn.

    Neck after shaping. 

    Join shoulder seams 

    With sl st join or a tapestry needle, join the shoulder seams. 

    Collar 

    With new yarn, join at the top right of the v neck and ch 3. Dc in centre of every horizontal dc when working down the right side of the neck, dc in top of every dc and centre of every v when working across the centre front, and in the side of every dc working back up the left side. Finally, work a dc into the centre of every v and top of every dc across the back of the neck. Sl st to join the round. Fasten off. 

    Vest- armholes

    Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows: 

    At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side. 

    Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st), sk 1 ch sp (or side dc). V st, sk 1 ch sp, v st, *sk 1 ch sp, v st; repeat from * to end. Sl  to join the round.

    Sleeves: 

    At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side. 

    Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows: 

    Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st). V st another 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts evenly across armhole. Sl to join the round. 

    Next round and every following round: 

    Ch 4, dc in same ch. V st in every v ch sp around. Sl to join the round. 

    Continue until sleeve measures 48/50/50/50/52/52/52cm (19/20/20/20/21/21/21in). 24/25/25/25/26/26/26 v sts 

    Cuff 

    4 rounds of dc in total. Try the sleeve on to see if you would prefer a longer or shorter cuff. 

    1. Sl st and ch 2, dc into every ch around. Sl st to close round.
    2. Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, sk 1; repeat from * to end. 
    3. Dc in every dc.
    4. Repeat round 3 once more. 

    Fasten off. Cut yarn. 

    Finishing

    Fasten off. Weave in ends and enjoy. 

    If you loved this v stitch sweater pattern, let me know in the comments! happy hooking!

  • Starburst Cardigan. Chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

    Starburst Cardigan. Chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

    This is a free crochet pattern for a chunky, multi-coloured cardigan. You can either use this free version with ads, or the pattern is also available here with no ads.

    Starburst Cardigan: a chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

    Named after the much loved 90s fruit chews, this cardigan promises a burst of colour and a quick turnaround. The funnel sleeves give it a retro feel and the bobbles scream retro charm. 

    Wear it as an oversized addition to your wardrobe all year round!

    Materials needed: 

    Stylecraft special Chunky. 100% Acrylic; 144 metres / 157 yards per 100g / 3.5oz 1 (1,1*,2,2) balls of each colour. *Size M needs 2 balls of Denim in total for the border, but 1 of every other colour. 

    • Raspberry (1023)
    • Meadow (1065)
    • Lavender (1188)
    • Fondant (1241)
    • Lipstick (1246)
    • Denim (1302)
    • Camel (1420)
    • Aspen (1422)
    • 6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
    • 4 removable stitch markers.
    • Darning needle for weaving in ends.

    Gauge: 

    3 bobble stitches and 3 ch spaces/ 4 rows to 10cm/4” using a 6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook and Stylecraft Special Chunky.

    Bobble stitch- 

    Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook. 

    Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook. 

    Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

    When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row. 

    US terms are used throughout. Please ensure that you are using the correct terms as this will significantly alter the finished result. 

    When working in the round, you will need to sl st to join the round at the end. Start your next round by slipping across the top of the first cluster, rejoining your yarn when you get to the chain space. 

    When you are starting in the round, make 2 chains into the first ch sp. This counts as the first leg of the bobble. Complete step 2-4 to finish the bobble. 

    Sample shown is M. 

    The colours on the pattern sample M are worked from the bottom up in the following order: 

    1. Fondant 
    2. Raspberry
    3. Lipstick
    4. Lavender 
    5. Denim 
    6. Aspen
    7. Meadow 
    8. Camel 

    Note: At the end of every other row there will be an individual double crochet stitch. This makes the edging process easier. Check out the blog for more tips and videos on the Starburst cardigan. 

    Body measurement chart: 

    Size ChestSleeves Back
    XS26-30” (66-76cm )18” (46cm)28” (71cm)
    S32-36” (81-91cm)20” (51cm)28” (71cm)
    M40-44” (102-107cm)20” (51cm)30” (76cm)
    L46-48” (117-122cm22” (56cm)32” (81cm)
    XL50-52” (127-132cm)22” (56cm)32” (81cm)

    Glossary: 

    BobbleSee description on page 2
    Ch / Ch sp Chain(s)/ Chain space 
    DcDouble crochet (US terms) 
    Sk Skip stitches
    Sl Slip stitch

    Bobble table 

    See example of separating in this Youtube link here 

    SizeChainsBobblesFront SleeveBack
    XS69 ch  22 3310
    S78 ch 25 3411
    M102 ch33 5511
    L114 ch36 5614
    XL14446 7816

    Instructions: 

    Row 1: Chain 69 (78/102/114/144) 

    (3 ch count as 1st dc) sk 2 ch, bobble in next ch, *ch 2, sk 2, bobble*  repeat from * to last ch OR bobble* Make a dc in last ch. 22 (25/33/36/46) bobbles. Ch 3 and turn. 

    Row 2 and every following row:

     *bobble in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat * to final dc. Make 1 dc, ch 3 and turn. 

    Changing colours every row, repeat row 2 for 20 (22/22/24/24) more rows 

    Separate for sleeves

    Isolate sections of the cardigan. Using the bobble chart, mark the beginning and end of the back stitches and mark the armholes. There should be 4 markers in total.  

    Front left/Front right

    Work only 3 (3/5/5/7) bobble stitches for the next row. 

    Work 5 (5/6/6/7) more rows. Fasten off. 

    Rejoin yarn and repeat on other side for front right 

    Back 

    Working with the bobble stitches on either side of the 2nd sleeve marker, work 5 (5/6/6/7) rows. Fasten off. 

    Join shoulder seams using sl st or seam with a darning needle. 

    Sleeves (work 2): 

    Joining new yarn, work 18 (20/22/22/24) bobble stitches evenly across armhole. Where there are bobble stitches under the armhole, you can work one bobble st into each ch sp as normal. Where you are working with the sides of stitches, work into the side of the posts/clusters. 

    To join each round, sl st into the top of the first bobble and sl across to next ch sp. Change colours here and start the next round with 2 ch and 2 more dcs in the bobble. 

    Work 20 (20/22/24/24) rounds in total. Fasten off. 

    Edges (including collar and front edges)

    Row 1: Starting at bottom left corner, insert hook into the ch sp and chain 3. 2 dc in the side of every stitch post and 2 dc in every ch sp along. Continue all the way around the left front, collar, right front and waistband. 

    Row 2: Dc in every stitch to end. Fasten off. 

    Weave in all ends and enjoy!

    Notes: This pattern uses bobble stitch clusters consisting of 3dc stitches joined together. The edging is worked using dc stitches. The cardigan is designed to be oversized. If you feel that the body is too long, please feel free to start your underarm marking 1 or 2 rows before the instructions state. 

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