Tag: free sock pattern

Flock socks knitting pattern. Cuff down sock knitting pattern.
The Flock Socks sock knitting pattern.
This design features a ‘flock’ of birds or butterflies: you decide! This blog post is for a free sock knitting pattern showing you how to make these cuff down socks. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF, you can get it on Ravelry here.
The flock socks are a fun way to make the most of texture with some simple stitch repeats. This sample is knit in a 100% hardy wool yarn but you could use a sock yarn with nylon for extra durability if you’d prefer. They are socks knit from the cuff down with a square, integrated heel, some short row shaping and a grafted toe.
The socks feature a square (Dutch heel) that is split into 3 after some increases and decreased back down to create a sturdy, rectangular shape under the heel.
You can see a quick video of how the heel is made here:

A note about the yarn:
I used Eden Cottage Yarns Oakworth 4ply. This isn’t strictly a ‘sock yarn’ but the wool is crisp and durable. I haven’t had to darn any heels or toes yet! If you like a sock made with natural, breathable fibres that will also keep your feet warm, try it! I used their special Christmas colourway (it was limited edition, so they don’t currently have it) but there are so many other beautiful shades available.
Materials required for this sock knitting pattern:
- 100g of 4ply sock yarn such as Oakworth 4ply, (100% Polwarth wool) by Eden Cottage Yarns (400m/436yds per 100g/3.5oz)
- Darning needle
- 4 Stitch markers
- 2.5mm circular (80cm cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.
Gauge:
30 sts and 35 rows in pattern per 10cm (4”)
Leg/foot circumference:
Size 1: 7 in/17cm
Size 2: 8 in/20cm
Size 3: 9 in/23cm
Glossary:
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
Ktog: Knit all the strands together with one stitch.
LH: Left hand
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch.
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front.
Sl: Slip a stitch from left hand needle to right hand needle.
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together.
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
RH: Right hand
RS: Right side
SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO.
SM: Slip marker
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side
How to knit the Flock Socks.
Start your Flock socks by casting on at the cuff
Loosely cast on 50 (60 70) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts..
Work in 1×1 rib for 2.5cm/1 in.
Knit the leg
Place a marker (marker 1) after the first 25 (30, 35) sts to establish halfway point.
K all sts for 1 round.
Round 2, 4, 6: *K5, Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * to end.
Round 1, 3, 5, 9, 11: K all sts.
Round 7: *K7, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2; repeat from * to end.
Round 8, 10, 12: *Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front, K5; repeat from * to end.
Round 13: *K2, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2, K5; repeat from * to end.
These 13 rounds form the flock pattern. Repeat Rounds 1-13 until piece measures 19 (20, 21)cm/7.5 (7.75, 8.25) in from cast on, ending with a 7th or 13th round.
Shape the heel

Heel increases are worked on every K round. Heel sts (underside) stay in K st after this point, with flock pattern continuing along instep sts.
In this next section, the stitch counts on the heel needle require increasing to whole numbers for size 1 and 3.
Round 1:
Size 1: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K24, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. Work in flock pattern to end. There are now 26 sts between markers 2 and 3.
Size 2: M1R, PM (marker 2), K30, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 2 sts increased. Work flock pattern to end.
Size 3: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K34, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. There are now 36 sts between markers 2 and 3. Work in flock pattern to end.
53 (62, 73) sts total.
Round 2:
K all stitches on heel needle(s), work flock pattern on instep, slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3:
K to marker 2, M1R. SM, K to marker 3, SM, M1L, K to marker 1, SM, work flock pattern to end.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 18 (20, 24) stitches on the heel needle(s). 44 (50, 60) sts on heel needle(s). 69 (80, 95) sts total.
Turn the heel of your sock:
Working only with the first 44 (50, 60) sts, continue as follows:
- Short row 1: (RS) K9 (10,12) to marker, SM, K 17 (19,19) sts, S1, K1 PSSO. 1 st decreased. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.
- Short row 2: (WS) P 8 (9, 10) sts, P2tog. 1 st decreased. Turn.
- Short row 3: (RS) Sl 1 knitwise, K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed. SKP. Turn.
- Short row 4: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise, P until 1 stitch before gap. P2tog. Turn.
Size 1: On last P row, P3tog at the end. 26 sts.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 until there are 26 (30, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be right side facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 51 (60, 71) sts total.
Set up in the round:
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to RH needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L, but slip the twisted stitch onto LH needle and K2tog. SM, work flock pattern to end.
Size 3: Increase 1 st on sole of foot sts on next round. 72 sts total.
Knitting the foot:
Continuing in flock pattern for instep stitches, and K all sts on sole of foot, until piece measures 3.5 (5, 6)cm/1.5 (2, 2.25)in less than desired length, ending with a 7th or 13th round of flock pattern.
On last round:
Size 1: Increase 1 st after halfway marker (marker 1). There are now 26 sts between markers.
Size 3: move halfway marker (marker 1) one stitch to the left so there are 36 sts between markers.
Finishing at the toe of the sock.
Round 1: *SKP, K 22 (26, 32) K2tog; repeat from * to end. (4 sts decreased in total)
Round 2: K all sts.
Round 3: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 2 and 3 until you have 36 (42, 52) sts in total.
THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1.
Finishing:
Using kitchener method, graft the remaining stitches together to close the toe. Weave in ends. Click here to see the step by step photo tutorial for this.
Check out some of my other sock knitting patterns:
Simple cuff down DK socks.
Andalusian stitch socks.
Basic 4ply sock pattern.
July 10, 2025
Easy 2 needle flat knit socks pattern
Do you love the idea of cosy, hand-knit socks but dread the complicated process of using four or five double-pointed needles? Knitting socks can be intimidating for even the most experienced knitter. If you’re looking for something that will build your confidence, look no further!
In this article, we will explore the method of knitting socks flat on just two straight needles. Yes, you read that right – no circular needles or DPNs required! Whether you are a beginner knitter or an experienced one looking for a new challenge, this method will revolutionise your sock-making game. Say goodbye to pesky stitches falling off the needles and hello to a simpler, more manageable knitting experience. Get ready to dive into the world of flat-knit socks and discover the endless possibilities.
This simple two needle flat knit socks pattern is a straightforward, simple way to learn the basic construction of a sock. Many knitters are hesitant to try socks on double pointed or circular needles, so I designed this pattern as a confidence builder. This pattern also covers the square heel, which is my favourite type of sock heel: The Square heel. Here’s a video showing you how to knit this heel:

This is a free pattern for two needle socks knit flat. You can either use the blog pattern for free, or if you’d like, here’s the easy PDF for your own convenience.
Whether you are looking to try a different construction for socks or you simply prefer knitting flat, these socks are for you. No side, toe or heel seams are required; just one simple seam up the front of the sock. The heel is worked using short rows and the toe consists of a drawstring finish.
Materials required to make these flat knit socks:
60g (70g, 90g) of 4ply sock yarn.
Yarn used in socks pictured is Gamer Crafting Sock 4-ply [75% Merino, 25% Nylon, 400m per 100g] in ‘Pride Was A Riot’.
2mm and 2.5mm needles (or size needed to obtain gauge) for working flat.
4 stitch markers.
Darning needle.
Gauge:
32 sts and 38 rows to 10cm/4 inches in stocking stitch on larger needles.
Finished Foot/Leg Circumference:
Size 1: 17.5cm/7 inches
Size 2: 20cm/8 inches
Size 3: 22.5cm/9 inches
Sample shown in size 2.
Length of leg from cuff to heel is 24cm/9.5 inches.
Foot length from back of heel to toe is 24cm/9.5 inches.
Glossary:
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit two stitches together. (1 stitch decreased)
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back. (1 stitch increased)
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front. (1 stitch increased)
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together. (1 stitch decreased)
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over
RS: Right side of work
SKP: Slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch. (1 stitch decreased)
SM: Slip marker
SSK: Slip two stitches separately knitwise to right-hand needle, knit them together through the front of the stitches. (1 stitch decreased)
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side of work
Cast on your flat knit socks.
Leg
With smaller needles, cast on 56 (64, 72) sts.
Rib row: [K1, P1] to end of row.
Repeat Rib row to work 1×1 rib until cuff measures 5cm/2 in, ending after a WS row.
Switch to larger needles.
Work stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until leg measures 18.5cm/7.25 in from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Next, it’s time to shape the heel. Pay close attention to this part because if you don’t have the right amount of stitches, your heel won’t sit right.
RS: K14 (16, 18), PM (marker 1), M1R, PM (marker 2), K28 (32, 36), PM (marker 3), M1L, PM (marker 4), K to end.
WS: P all sts.
RS: K to marker 1, SM, K to marker 2, M1R, SM, K to marker 3, SM, M1L, K to marker 4, SM, Knit to end.
WS: P all sts.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (9, 10) times, until you have increased 10 (11, 12) sts on either side of the heel markers, ending after a WS row. 76 (86, 96) sts in total.
Now, turn the heel with short rows. See the video above if you’re still unsure about this part.
RS: K to marker 1, SM, K to marker 2, SM, K17 (20, 23), SKP. Turn work.
WS: P7 (9, 11), P2tog. Turn.
RS: K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed, SKP. Turn.
WS: P to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (9, 10) times, until there are 28 (32, 36) heel sts between markers 1 and 4, ending after a WS row. This is the number of heel stitches you started with; your work will be RS facing with marker 2 on your right-hand needle.
Knitting the foot of your flat knit sock.
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to right-hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left-hand needle and K2tog. K to marker 4, SM, K to end.
You can remove markers 1 and 4 while you work the foot; you will need them again when you reach the toe.
Work rest of foot in stocking stitch until it measures 5 (6, 6.5)cm/2 (2.25, 2.5) in less than desired length.
It’s time to shape the toe of your sock.
RS: K12 (14, 18), SSK, PM, K2tog, K22 (28, 28), SSK, PM, K2tog, K to end. (4 sts decreased)
WS: P all sts.
RS: K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, SM, K2tog, K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, SM, K2tog, K to end.
(4 sts decreased)
WS: P all sts.
Repeat last 2 rows another 8 (10, 11) times, until there are 16 (16, 20) sts in total.
Finishing your sock
Cut a long tail of yarn and, with a darning needle, thread tail through remaining sts and pull tight to close. Then, using mattress stitch, seam up the front of the sock. Weave in yarn ends.
I hope you enjoy your new, flat knit socks. Let me know how you get on in the comments.
Feeling confident?
You can stay here if you’re feeling happy with your flat knit socks. However, there is the option to progress to knitting in the round! I have a pattern for an adult size sock or a smaller, novelty sock that can also be used for babies. If you’d like to try, you can have a go at knitting socks in the round.

In conclusion, knitting socks flat on two needles may seem intimidating at first, but with the right techniques and practice, anyone can master this traditional method. We have explored the benefits of knitting socks flat, including the ability to customize and adjust sizing, as well as the convenience of not needing double-pointed needles. By following the step-by-step instructions and tips shared in this article, you can create a comfortable and stylish pair of socks that will keep your feet warm and cozy. As writer Elizabeth Zimmermann once said, “Knit on with confidence and hope, through all crises.” So go ahead and give it a try, and see the magic of knitting unfold right before your eyes. Keep learning and experimenting, and embrace the joy of creating something unique and handmade. Happy knitting!
January 12, 2025