Tag: sock knitting

  • Flock socks knitting pattern. Cuff down sock knitting pattern.

    Flock socks knitting pattern. Cuff down sock knitting pattern.

    The Flock Socks sock knitting pattern.

    This design features a ‘flock’ of birds or butterflies: you decide! This blog post is for a free sock knitting pattern showing you how to make these cuff down socks. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF, you can get it on Ravelry here.

    The flock socks are a fun way to make the most of texture with some simple stitch repeats. This sample is knit in a 100% hardy wool yarn but you could use a sock yarn with nylon for extra durability if you’d prefer. They are socks knit from the cuff down with a square, integrated heel, some short row shaping and a grafted toe.

    slip stitch textured sock knitting pattern

    The socks feature a square (Dutch heel) that is split into 3 after some increases and decreased back down to create a sturdy, rectangular shape under the heel.

    You can see a quick video of how the heel is made here: 

    A note about the yarn:

    I used Eden Cottage Yarns Oakworth 4ply. This isn’t strictly a ‘sock yarn’ but the wool is crisp and durable. I haven’t had to darn any heels or toes yet! If you like a sock made with natural, breathable fibres that will also keep your feet warm, try it! I used their special Christmas colourway (it was limited edition, so they don’t currently have it) but there are so many other beautiful shades available.

    Materials required for this sock knitting pattern:

    • 100g of 4ply sock yarn such as Oakworth 4ply, (100% Polwarth wool) by Eden Cottage Yarns (400m/436yds per 100g/3.5oz)
    • Darning needle
    • 4 Stitch markers
    • 2.5mm circular (80cm cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.

    Gauge:
    30 sts and 35 rows in pattern per 10cm (4”)

    Leg/foot circumference:
    Size 1: 7 in/17cm
    Size 2: 8 in/20cm
    Size 3: 9 in/23cm

    Glossary: 

    K: Knit 

    K2tog: Knit two stitches together. 

    Ktog: Knit all the strands together with one stitch. 

    LH: Left hand

    M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch. 

    M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front. 

    Sl: Slip a stitch from left hand needle to right hand needle. 

    P: Purl

    P2tog: Purl two stitches together.

    PM: Place marker

    PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. 

    RH: Right hand

    RS: Right side

    SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO. 

    SM: Slip marker 

    St(s): Stitch(es)

    WS: Wrong side

    How to knit the Flock Socks.

    Start your Flock socks by casting on at the cuff

    Loosely cast on 50 (60 70) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts..

    Work in 1×1 rib for 2.5cm/1 in.

    Knit the leg

    Place a marker (marker 1) after the first 25 (30, 35) sts to establish halfway point. 

    K all sts for 1 round. 

    Round 2, 4, 6: *K5, Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * to end. 

    Round 1, 3, 5, 9, 11: K all sts. 

    Round 7: *K7, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2; repeat from * to end. 

    Round 8, 10, 12: *Sl 5 purlwise with yarn in front, K5; repeat from * to end. 

    Round 13: *K2, pick up the 3 strands and the next st from LH needle. Ktog with 3 strands. K2, K5; repeat from * to end. 

    These 13 rounds form the flock pattern. Repeat Rounds 1-13 until piece measures 19 (20, 21)cm/7.5 (7.75, 8.25) in from cast on, ending with a 7th or 13th round. 

    Shape the heel


    Heel increases are worked on every K round. Heel sts (underside) stay in K st after this point, with flock pattern continuing along instep sts. 

    In this next section, the stitch counts on the heel needle require increasing to whole numbers for size 1 and 3. 

    Round 1: 

    Size 1: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K24, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. Work in flock pattern to end. There are now 26 sts between markers 2 and 3. 

    Size 2: M1R, PM (marker 2), K30, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 2 sts increased. Work flock pattern to end. 

    Size 3: M1R, PM (marker 2), K1, M1L, K34, PM (marker 3), M1L. SM (marker 1). 3 sts increased. There are now 36 sts between markers 2 and 3. Work in flock pattern to end. 

    53 (62, 73) sts total. 

    Round 2: 

    K all stitches on heel needle(s), work flock pattern on instep, slipping markers as you come to them. 

    Round 3: 

    K to marker 2, M1R. SM, K to marker 3, SM, M1L, K to marker 1, SM, work flock pattern to end. 

    Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 18 (20, 24) stitches on the heel needle(s). 44 (50, 60) sts on heel needle(s). 69 (80, 95) sts total. 

    Turn the heel of your sock: 

    Working only with the first 44 (50, 60) sts, continue as follows: 

    • Short row 1: (RS) K9 (10,12) to marker, SM, K 17 (19,19) sts, S1, K1 PSSO. 1 st decreased. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.
    • Short row 2: (WS) P 8 (9, 10) sts, P2tog. 1 st decreased. Turn.
    • Short row 3: (RS) Sl 1 knitwise, K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed. SKP. Turn. 
    • Short row 4: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise, P until 1 stitch before gap. P2tog. Turn. 

    Size 1: On last P row, P3tog at the end. 26 sts. 

    Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 until there are 26 (30, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be right side facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 51 (60, 71) sts total. 

    Set up in the round: 

    Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to RH needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L, but slip the twisted stitch onto LH needle and K2tog. SM, work flock pattern to end. 

    Size 3: Increase 1 st on sole of foot sts on next round. 72 sts total. 

    Knitting the foot: 

    Continuing in flock pattern for instep stitches, and K all sts on sole of foot, until piece measures 3.5 (5, 6)cm/1.5 (2, 2.25)in less than desired length, ending with a 7th or 13th round of flock pattern. 

    On last round: 

    Size 1: Increase 1 st after halfway marker (marker 1). There are now 26 sts between markers. 

    Size 3: move halfway marker (marker 1) one stitch to the left so there are 36 sts between markers.

    Finishing at the toe of the sock.

    Round 1: *SKP, K 22 (26, 32) K2tog; repeat from * to end. (4 sts decreased in total) 

    Round 2: K all sts. 

    Round 3: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from * to end. 

    Repeat Round 2 and 3 until you have 36 (42, 52) sts in total. 

    THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1. 

    Finishing: 

    Using kitchener method, graft the remaining stitches together to close the toe. Weave in ends. Click here to see the step by step photo tutorial for this.

    Check out some of my other sock knitting patterns:

    Simple cuff down DK socks.

    Andalusian stitch socks.

    Basic 4ply sock pattern.

  • There are many ways to knit socks.

    There are many ways to knit socks.

    Are you sitting down? I’m going to talk you through the many ways to knit socks. 

    Last year I received a refund request from a customer. They weren’t happy with their sock knitting kit and wanted a refund on the needles. The customer’s words were something like “there’s circular needles in here. No good for knitting socks!” 

    Let’s ignore the fact that the contents of the kit will have been clearly listed before purchase and that I am a knitwear designer and hopefully know a thing or two about knitting socks. Let’s focus on the “no good for knitting socks!” How do you know? Have you tried? 

    After talking the customer round (excuse the pun) they were willing to give the circulars a try. I introduced them to the method of magic loop knitting. They had never heard of this before. If you knit, every day is a school day. There are many, many ways to do something that achieves the same results as something else. Magic loop is just one method. 

    This article may contain affiliate links, meaning that if you choose to shop through any of the links, I do earn a small commission.

    Long circular needles (magic loop)

    Long circular needles aren’t just for hats and garments. You can use them for knitting flat as they are lighter and more compact than traditional straight knitting needles. What knitters do to make socks with long circulars is to choose circulars with a very long cable. I usually recommend 80cm or 100cm for socks. This cable is then pulled through to provide a loop on either side of the work. 

    In these photos I’m using Addi lace circulars with an 80cm cable.

    how to knit on magic loop

    I seem to find that if I was to join in the round at cast on (by pulling the cord through the halfway point of the stitches) I end up with a tangled mess and twisted stitches. This can be avoided entirely by knitting the first round in one flat row. When you have established the first row, simply pull the cord through the halfway point of stitches and carry on knitting. You will be left with the smallest of gaps at the top of the cuff but you can easily seam it closed at the end.

    Louise Tilbrook has a really handy tutorial for magic loop here

    Knitting on short circular needles 

    There are also short circulars. They’re brilliant for knitting the legs and the feet but you will need to switch to other circulars or DPNs for toe shaping. That’s not a preference thing- it’s just not physically possible to shape toes on 9 inch circulars.

    addi sockwonder short circular needles

    What I will say about the 9in circulars is that they create a tighter knit in my opinion. You definitely need to review your tension compared to when you use other methods. 

    Louise Tilbrook has a tutorial on knitting with tiny needles here. It can be hard to get to grips with them at first but if you can, it’s worth it. 

    Knitting with niche needles 

    There are also these funky little things called CraSyTrio. I think they’re awesome because they have the flexibility of the circular needle but a similar setup to double pointed needles.

    Double pointed needles

    Your experience with these will vary from “knitting ninja” to “fighting with a hedgehog” but if you persevere, I think you’ll be all right. I was wary of double pointed needles for a long time. I feared the complicated set up and when I started out, I would get myself into a tangle or lose my patience when one of the needles kept slipping off. 

    You may want to consider starting your DPN journey with something bigger like a sleeve or a hat. This will help you to practice and there’s more chance of you noticing dropped stitches with thicker yarn. 

    DPN hack: Cast on all of your stitches on one slightly larger needle. Using your smaller DPN needles, knit the set amount of divided stitches onto each needle. You will then have all stitches accounted for without having dropped your DPNs during cast on. Some patterns even tell you how many stitches to have on each needle e.g. there may be more stitches on the 3rd needle as that is the heel needle.

    If you need help choosing DPNs to knit with I have a blog post here.

     You can knit socks flat

    Even though knitting socks in the round is incredibly popular, there will always be knitters who prefer knitting them flat. I believe that these knitters are often left behind when it comes to sock design. Luckily, you can get a good range of flat knit socks thanks to the internet. I have a pattern for flat knit socks here that avoids all the requirements for stitch holders and multiple seams. Just sew up one seam at the end and you’re done.

    I hope you can find the time to explore all methods or practice a favourite. 

    Hanna 

    Sock knitting patterns to try!

    Easy flat knit, two needle socks.

    The Andalusian Stitch Socks

    Simple cuff-down beginner socks.

  • Andalusian stitch socks. Free sock knitting pattern for a pair of simple, rib textured socks.

    Andalusian stitch socks. Free sock knitting pattern for a pair of simple, rib textured socks.

    The Andalusian stitch is one of my favourite stitches. It’s elegant, detailed and this is without having to do anything particularly complicated. This is a simple knit and purl stitch, and even someone trying socks for the first time could do this pattern. This sock pattern comes in three sizes and covers most adult foot sizes. Please make sure you measure around your foot before proceeding. Socks have negative ease, meaning they may seem small but that’s because they need to stretch to stay in place!

    Here’s a quick description of what the andalusian stitch actually is:

    Rounds 1-3: K all sts. 

    Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat  from * to end. 

    This is the Andalusian stitch pattern. 

    The Andalusian stitch socks are a simple, detailed sock design that are perfect for intermediate knitters looking to experiment with more textured detail.

    This pattern is available for free with ads, or, if preferred, you can get a handy PDF from Ko fi or Ravelry.

    This article does contain affiliate links, meaning that if you decide to purchase via the links, I earn a small commission.

    These are adult socks worked in the round from the cuff down. The textured Andalusian stitch pattern requires only knit and purl stitches to create a broken rib effect. I used a semi solid colour to emphasise the texture of both the sock and the heel. The heel is shaped using increases and decreases, and the toe is grafted together using the kitchener method. 

    For this sock pattern, I used High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway, and it costs around £20. As this was a hand dyed yarn, sometimes the exact match won’t be available. Here’s a list of suitable alternatives to suit your budget:

    Other yarns to use for this pattern according to budget.

    King Cole Footsie 4ply: This 4ply sock yarn comes in a limited colour palette but it is only £5.54 ($7.40USD) per ball. You get a whopping 430m per ball, too. It’s excellent value and as it’s a solid colour, you’ll be able to see the stitches clearly! King Cole Footsie 4ply is a 100% synthetic yarn (93% acrylic, 7% other), so if you’re not fussed on wool or can’t wear it, this sock yarn is a better choice.

    West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply: This yarn would work in a solid or self striping colourway. The yarn amount is the same and the gauge will be similar too. It’s not as ‘shiny’ as some hand dyed socks are, but the wool is still soft and incredibly comfortable. The crispness of the wool would ensure excellent stitch definition in this pattern particularly. I would recommend a colour like Poppy Seed, Pennyroyal or Fuchsia. Pennyroyal is pictured below.

    West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply costs between £7.50 and £9

    Malabrigo Ultimate Sock: This 4ply yarn is at the more luxurious end of sock yarns. It’s 75% merino wool, so is very soft with that slight sheen. It is also hand dyed, so would look lovely with the texture of this sock pattern. It comes in a range of colours and is proced at or around £17.99, but one skein will do.

    The colour shown below is Zinnias (658).

    To make these socks, you will need to be familiar with the square heel. There’s a step by step photo tutorial here and a video below.

    How to knit the Andalusian stitch socks.

    Andalusian stitch sock knitting pattern. Socks with a simple rib detail. Easy free sock pattern. Cuff down sock knitting pattern to make. Free knit socks. beginner friendly sock knitting patterns. 4ply socks.

    Glossary

    DPN: Double pointed needles

    K: Knit

    K1, P1 rib: Knit 1 stitch, purl one stitch 

    K2tog: Knit two stitches together 

    M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch. 

    M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front. 

    P: Purl 

    P2tog: Purl two stitches together

    PM: Place marker

    PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. 

    RS: Right side

    SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO 

    SL: Slip stitch

    SM: Slip marker 

    St(s): Stitch(es)

    WS: Wrong side

    Gauge 

    35 stitches and 52 rounds = 10cm/4in using 2.5mm (US 1.5) needles

    Materials 

    • High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway. 
    • Darning needle
    • 4 stitch markers
    • 2.5mm (US 1.5) circular (80cm/32in cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.

    if you don’t have any suitable needles yet, I have a handy blog post here about DPNs, and one about circular needles to help you choose.

    Leg/foot circumference 

    Size 1: 6.5 in/16cm

    Size 2: 7.5 in/18cm

    Size 3: 8in/21cm

    The Pattern

    Cuff

    Loosely cast on 56 (64 72) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.

    Work in 1×1 twisted rib for 2.5cm/1in.

    Starting the leg of your andalusian stitch socks:

    PM after the first 28 (32 36) sts to establish halfway point. 

    Rounds 1-3: K all sts. 

    Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat  from * to end. 

    This is the Andalusian stitch pattern. 

    Repeat Rounds 1-4 until leg measures 18cm/7.25in from cast on. 

    Shaping your square (Dutch) sock heel.

    When working the heel, continue in the Andalusian stitch pattern for the stitches after the halfway marker. The heel and the underside of foot will be in knit stitch from now on. 

    Round 1: 

    M1R, PM (marker 2) and K 28 (32, 36) stitches, PM (marker 3) and M1L, SM (marker 1). Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round. 

    Round 2: 

    K to halfway marker, Andalusian st pattern to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them. 

    Rnd 3: 

    K to marker 2, M1R, SM, K 28 (32, 36) sts, SM and M1L, SM. Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round. 

    Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 20 (22, 24) sts. 

    Turning the heel of your sock: 

    Working only with the first 48 (54, 60) sts continue as follows: 

    Short row 1: (RS) K to marker, SM, K 17 (20, 23) sts, SL1, K1 PSSO. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.

    Short row 2: (WS) P 7 (9, 11) sts, P2tog. Turn.

    Short row 3: (RS) K to 1 st before the gap which has formed, SKP. Turn. 

    Short row 4: (WS) P until 1 st before gap, P2tog. Turn.

    Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until there are 28 (32, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be RS facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 56 (64, 72) sts in total. 

    Set up in the round: 

    Rnd 1: 

    Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, SL the twisted st on to right hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left hand needle and K2tog. SM, K to end. 

    Foot: 

    K to halfway marker, Andalusian pattern to end of round until foot measures 2.5cm/1in less than desired length. 

    Toe

    Rnd 1: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from to end. (4 sts decreased in total) 

    Rnd 2: K to end of round. 

    Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 36 (36, 40) sts in total. 

    THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1. 

    Finishing

    Using kitchener method, graft the remaining sts together to close the toe. Weave in ends. 

    Thanks for using my andalusian stitch sock knitting pattern. Did you make a pair? Let me know in the comments. If you’d like, you can send me a photo of the socks and I’ll post them in the projects gallery here!

  • Simple cuff-down sock knitting pattern. Sock knitting for beginners.

    Simple cuff-down sock knitting pattern. Sock knitting for beginners.

    This is a free sock knitting pattern for simple, cuff down socks with a square heel and shaped toe. This sock knitting pattern was designed by Hanna Gough in 2020, and it remains one of the most popular patterns for knitting socks with 4ply yarn.  

    If you’d prefer an ad-free PDF of this pattern, you can find one here.

    This sock pattern is perfect for beginners who want to knit their first pair of socks in the round. You will need to be able to:

    • Knit in the round.
    • Decrease and increase stitches.
    • Graft sock toes.

    If you’re not yet feeling confident with knitting in the round I do have a flat knit sock pattern here. Everyone can enjoy knitting socks!

    This is one of my best-known sock knitting patterns, and is perfect for those of you who know how to knit, but want to try knitting socks in the round. Knit your first pair of socks with this simple Basic 4ply Socks pattern and photo tutorial. I also have some helpful videos on youtube to help you understand the major points in the pattern such as casting on, shaping the heel and turning the heel.

    Scroll down to find my simple, cuff down beginner sock knitting pattern. It’s free to read, but if you’d prefer a handy PDF, there’s one here.

    This article contains some affiliate links. This means that if you choose to buy anything I have recommended here, I do earn a small commission.

    For this sock knitting pattern, I recommend needles such as addi aluminium DPNs , Knitpro or addi circular needles for knitting in the round.

    Easy sock knitting pattern for beginners. Simple cuff down socks. The image is of a pair of striped socks. This image supports the instructions as they are a finished pair of socks. The socks are knit using west yorkshire spinners signature 4ply yarn. The socks are beginner friendly.

    How to use this sock knitting pattern.

    Read through the pattern first, and then look at the glossary. When you’ve had a read through the pattern and understand what you will need and what skills are required, begin. Consult the pattern as often as you need to and take your time! Your socks will take as long as they take. Just enjoy the process.

    You will need: 

    100g of 4ply sock yarn (400m per 100g) such as WYS signature 4ply (main photo is Bright Side)

     Darning needle

    4 Stitch markers

    2.5mm circular (80cm cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.

    Gauge: 

    35 sts / 10cm (4”)

    A note on construction

    You can knit these socks using DPNs or circulars. I have written the pattern with circulars in mind. If you need a bit more help when it comes to choosing needles, and want to know how to knit with double pointed needles, I have a helpful post here. If you want to know how to knit with magic loop, I have post here.

    Leg/foot circumference: 

    Size 1: 7 in/17cm

    Size 2: 8 in/20cm

    Size 3: 9 in/23cm

    Cuff

    Loosely cast on 56 (64 72) sts, join to work in the round.

    Work in 1×1 twisted rib for 2 in/5cm

    Leg

    Place a marker after the first 28 (32 36) sts to establish halfway point. K all rounds until piece measures  7.25” 18cm from cast on. 

    Heel

    Rnd 1: 

    M1R, PM (marker 2) and knit 28 (32, 36) stitches, PM (marker 3) and M1L. SM (marker 1). K to end of round. 

    Rnd 2: 

    K all stitches in round slipping markers as you come to them. 

    Rnd 3: 

    K to marker 2 , M1R, SM, K 28 (32, 36) sts, SM and M1L. SM. K 28 (32, 36) sts to end of round. 

    Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 20 (22, 24) stitches. 

    Turn heel: 

    Working only with the first 48 (54, 60) sts cont as follows: 

    Short row 1: (RS) K to marker, SM, K 17 (20, 23) sts, S1, K1 PSSO. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn the work around.

    Short row 2: (WS) P 7 (9, 11) sts, P2tog. Turn.

    Short row 3: (RS) K to 1 stitch before the gap which has formed. SKP. Turn. 

    Short row 4: (WS) P until 1 stitch before gap. P2tog. Turn.

    Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 28 (32,36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be right side facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 56 (64, 72) sts in total. 

    Set up in the round: 

    Rnd 1: 

    Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, slip the twisted stitch on to right hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left hand needle and K2tog. SM,  K to end. 

    Foot: 

    K all rounds until foot measures 1 in/2.5cm less than desired length. 

    Toe

    Rnd 1: *SKP, K 26 (28, 34) ( K2tog* Repeat* until end of round.  (4 sts decreased in total) 

    Rnd 2:: K to end of round.  

    Rnd 3: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog* repeat to end. 

    Repeat round 1 and 2 until you have 36 (36, 40) sts in total. 

    THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1. 

    Finishing: 

    Using kitchener method, graft the remaining stitches together to close the toe. Weave in ends. 

    Glossary: 

    K1 P1 twisted rib: Knit through the back loop, purl as normal. 

    BOR: Beginning of round. 

    PM: Place Marker

    SM: Slip marker. 

    M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front. 

    M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch. 

    SL: Slip stitch

    PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. 

    P2tog: Purl two stitches together. 

    SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO. 

    K2tog: Knit two stitches together. 

    Other sock knitting patterns to try.

    Andalusian stitch socks.

    The Flock socks.

    Thank you for reading this sock knitting pattern. If you’ve made a pair, why not share a photo in the comments? Let others know what yarn you used and start the discussion! Sock knitting brings lots of people together and can be really handy when you want a quick, satisfying project but don’t have a lot of time.

    Simple cuff own sock knitting pattern free. Free sock pattern
  • Sock knitting with two straight needles. Can you knit socks flat?

    Wondering how to knit socks on straight needles? Try this two needle flat sock pattern. You can have all the glamour of 4ply socks without the worry of extra needles.  

    This article about knitting socks on straight needles contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy, I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.

    Despite there being thousands of socks knit in the round. there is still strong demand for the flat knit sock pattern. This method is perfect for those of us who prefer knitting with two straight needles but want to try socks. 

    When I proposed the idea of designing one last spring, it was met with some scepticism. Why would anyone want to knit flat when you can knit with socks in the round? Where will the seam go? Will it be comfortable? It will be too much hassle with a toe seam, a heel seam or a side seam. 

    I managed to solve all of these potential issues. It is now my bestseller. There is good reason for it; not everybody wants to knit in the round. As a designer, I have always believed that design should solve problems as well as appeal to needs. If you prefer two sticks to four sticks, that’s absolutely fine. In fact, I am so happy with offering choice that I am working on my first two needle sock knitting ebook this year. 

    Flat knit sock knitting pattern

    Every now and then I see enquiries pop up in Facebook knitting groups along the lines of ‘where can I find a 2 needle sock pattern?’. 

    Here! You can find one here!.

    What’s so special about my best selling flat knit sock pattern? A few things! 

    • They are made using 4ply sock yarn.
    • They are cuff down.
    • They are worked flat the whole way- even the heel.
    • There is no heel seam to put on a stitch holder.
    • There is no toe seam to put on a stitch holder.
    • There is no side seam either.
    Two needle sock knitting pattern. Easy beginner socks with 4ply yarn. Beginner socks. Easy socks to learn to make socks.

    What? How does this even work? 

    You knit from the cuff to the heel, increase for the heel, work some short rows (don’t be scared, it’s easier than it seems), knit to the toe, do some more decreases, and seam up the front. 

    The true difficulty depends on your seaming skills to be honest. If you choose a solid colour, you can hide the seam easier than striped, but that shouldn’t matter. It’s a sock. It will be worn under trousers and shoes. Also, in my experience people don’t tend to inspect my knitwear. 

    Need help choosing sock yarns?

    Here I’ll recommend my favourite sock knitting yarns and tell you a bit about them:

    West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply Sock Yarn.

    It doesn’t get any better than this, sorry. West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply is such a straightforward, everyday sock yarn. It’s perfect because it’s a blend of British wool and some nylon for strength. I’ve used it for most of my sock designs, and have quite a bit in my stash. Other reasons why it’s great include:

    • It comes in a 100g ball. Perfect for a pair of adult socks.
    • It comes in a huge range of colours.
    • The yarn smells deliciously sheepy (if you know, you know.)
    • It comes in self-striping as well as solid or marl.
    West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply knitting yarn. Every knitting yarn for sock knitting. How to knit socks flat.

    I’ve even used WYS Signature 4ply in my sock knitting patterns. You can find my basic cuff-down sock knitting pattern by clicking the image below.

    Simple cuff down beginner socks using 4ply yarn. West Yorkshire Spinners Sigmature 4ply. Easy sock knittin gpattern for beginners. How to knit socks in the round.

  • How to knit with double pointed knitting needles. DPN tutorial.

    How to knit with double pointed knitting needles. DPN tutorial.

    In this post we will explore double pointed knitting needles. These are also known as DPN and come in sets of 4 or 5 needles. They also come in 15cm (6in), 20cm (8in) and even 30cm (12in) and 40cm (15in) for larger projects such as adult sweaters!

    DPNs are really useful when it comes to knitting things in the round. They are incredibly handy when knitting something small like the finger of a glove, or a baby sleeve.

    Knitting with double pointed knitting needles can look really complicated, but once you realise you’re only ever knitting with two needles at a time you will be able to knit in the round easily with these handy sets of needles.

    In this article, we will be looking at:

    • How to cast on with double pointed knitting needles (video or step by step photo tutorial)
    • What kind of needles you will need for your project.
    • How to choose your next set of double pointed knitting needles.

    Find out more about double pointed knitting needles below.

    Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you choose to shop via any of the links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    Here’s how to cast on and knit with double pointed knitting needles.

    Ever wanted to try double pointed needles but were put off by how complicated they look? Maybe after seeing how to cast on and knit with them, you might see past the entangled hedgehog and feel more confident about giving them a try. 

    Here’s a video showing you how to knit with double pointed needles. There is also a step by step photo tutorial on this page. 

    What are double pointed needles used for? 

    You can use DPNs (double pointed needles) to knit absolutely anything in the round. You can use short ones such as 10cm and 15cm to knit socks and mittens, then there’s 20cm needles for hats and cowls. There are also 40cm double pointed needles to knit garments on. They’re very versatile and knitters have been using them for at least a century. That’s a long enougn lifespan to justify their usefulness, don’t you think? 

    Addi aluminium double pointed knitting needles. The best knitting needles for knitting in the round. DPNs how to knit with them.

    Double pointed needles come in a range of materials and textures too. Wood needles are probably the lightest, with aluminium, plastic and steel not far behind. You can try the different materials out and see what’s right for you. Wood needles have a bit more flex so can therefore be more forgiving for a loose-tensioned hand. The steel needles may be more slippery and less useful for you but you won’t know until you try them as they can have excellent precision on lace knitting and picking up stitches. 

    This blog post is all about getting you started with double pointed needles. Take your time, be patient and have a go! 

    Casting on with double pointed needles: 

    To cast on, cast on like you would with a traditional, straight needle. A problem for many beginners is casting on too tightly and this can cause your stitches to twist, so here’s what I do: 

    Cast on over two needles. How to knit with souble pointed needles. DPN step by step tutorial for beginners. Knitting tutorials for DPN.

    Cast on across two needles held together. This forces some space between the stitches and allows you to easily get the next needle into the stitches. If your cast on method doesn’t work with this two needle technique, just cast on with one larger, straight needle.

    For the sake of this tutorial, let’s call them needle 1, 2 and 3 with an active needle. 

    Where to buy the best double pointed knitting needles. DPN tutorial for beginners. Addi needles. Bamboo double pointed knitting needles.

    In this example here I have a 4mm straight needle to cast on with and I’m using 3mm double pointed needles for the rest of the project. This needle with no stitches on it will be needle 1. 

    How to knit with DPN. Double pointed needles for beginners.

    When you have cast on the desired amount of stitches, use just one of the spare needles to start knitting. Let’s say that in this example it is a sock that we are knitting, we would be doing rib stitches (K1, P1). 

    Decide how many needles you want to use to knit your project.

    Double pointed needles come in sets of 4 or 5. Most knitters will use 3 or 4 needles to hold stitches and 1 needle as the active needle. 

    Knitting tutorials for beginners.

    In this example, I’m knitting stitches using the active needle. This will become needle 1. I’ve called it the ‘active’ needle and as you knit in the round, there should always be one free or ‘active’ needle for picking up the stitches.

    Now I’m knitting another batch of stitches onto the active needle. This will be needle 2. 

    When you’ve decided how many stitches you need to have on each of the needles, just keep knitting across them with the active needle. The active needle will change every time you finish a set of stitches. In the photo above, I’m knitting the second set of stitches with my active needle. 

    If you’ve cast on over two needles, you can remove one of them when knitting the last set of stitches as you’ll need a new active needle to create needle 3. 

    When you’ve knit across all of the cast on stitches, it is time to join to work in the round. All you have to do is bring the first needle back to your right hand. It should have the tail end with it. I’ve knit across needle 1, 2 and 3 and have an active needle (4th needle). You can do this easily by flipping the entire project over. 

    To join, knit the first stitch of needle 3 with the active needle. 

    This will cause them to join in the round. You just keep knitting across the needles until you get to the desired length. 

    If you’re knitting something larger like a hat or even a garment, you may want to use 4 needles plus the active needle.  

    How do I stop the needles slipping off? 

    If you are starting out and don’t feel confident keeping control of the needles, this can be due to loose tension/things getting caught, 

    To ensure the needles don’t point vertically and slip out of your stitches, you can try any of these things: 

    • Knit over a desk so that the needles stay mostly horizontal.
    • Knit over a cushion on your lap. This will stop the needles from dropping anywhere.
    • Make sure your sleeves aren’t long and getting in the way. Roll them up or wear short sleeves when you’re using your DPNs for the first few times.
    • Try not to hold the needles up to your face to see stitches. This can cause them to slip off. Make sure you have good lighting and can see the project well.
    • Use needle stoppers. These are usually rubber shapes such as cones or balls that stop stitches slipping off the needles. Whilst they are very practical for needle storage and holding projects when you’re not using them, they might be a bit of a hassle if you have to remove them every time you knit onto the next needle.

    As your tension improves, your needles should stay on the stitches. 

    Using double pointed needles shouldn’t be scary

    At the end of the day, you are only ever knitting with two needles at any one time. Don’t let other knitters put you off using double pointed needles. There are often well meaning but unhelpful suggestions to “just use magic loop” or “buy these types instead” but I think it’s important that you try things out before deciding what is and isn’t for you. For all you know, you could love using double pointed needles. 

    Which DPNs are right for me?

    There are many types of knitting needles due to personal preference. Some knitters prefer lightweight, wood needles while others prefer metals like steel and aluminium. Generally, plastic and aluminium are at the cheaper end of the range available, but they’re great to have if you’re just learning! Take a look at these types below to see what you would prefer when it comes to knitting with double pointed needles.

    Lykke Driftwood Double Pointed Knitting Needles (6in)

    Many knitters swear by LYKKE needles and it’s simple to understand why: they’re lightweight and available in natural materials. These driftwood needles are 16 Sizes (2mm – 9mm).

    Lykke is the Norwegian word for happiness, which is certainly what you’ll be feeling by using their range of knitting and crochet accessories.

    As global demand is increasing for our products, this community of skilled workers is growing too, expanding our output capacity. High quality materials and thoughtful design details produce the most beautiful and durable products. The craftsmanship is really something to admire! All knitting needles and crochet hooks are handcrafted and assembled in Nepal by Nepalese craftspeople.

    These needles are renowned for their reputation of being strong and flexible with a smoothness that won’t snag! Buy now and add something special to your craft bag.

    Addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles.

    These little needles are so smooth and lightweight. I used them in some of the images above, as well as the video. This is because I was knitting something really small (a mini sock) and didn’t want long, heavy needles getting stuck on the desk as I worked. The addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles are small as well as light, so they’re really handy for on-the-go knitting or working with something tiny, like a toy!

    What I particularly like about these needles is how smooth they are. They’re waxed, so they don’t splinter easily and the yarn glides down the shaft just as it would with a metal needle. I would suggest using bamboo knitting needles for acrylic yarns as the plastic on plastic you get with Pony needles for example can be quite squeaky! Not ideal if you’re sensitive to that kind of thing.

    They’re also getting my vote because they come in 6 handy sizes. Start really small with 2mm and work your way up to 4mm. They’re absolutely perfect for tiny things like toys, socks and gloves.

    Addi grey aluminium double pointed knitting needles

    These double pointed needles are my absolute favourite, ever. They’re a great size for socks and mitts as well as sleeves. I swear these needles make me knit faster! They’re so simple and in the years I’ve owned addi aluminium needles, none have bent. I’ve had my longer straight needles kink, and my thinner knitpro needles bend, but not these. My addi’s have been loyal to me and are fantastic for knitting sleeves for my kids’ stuff as well as for my own. I think the 20cm length are perfect for sleeves and hats as once you’ve separated the stitches, they don’t go riding off the edge easily.

    They’re smooth, coated metal so there’s no snagging or pulling on your stitches. I wouldn’t recommend them if your hands are sensitive to the cold (the bamboo or driftwood needles are better suited in this department) but they’re great and they’re still my favourite. As with most needles, they come in several sizes so they’ll suit a variety of projects. They come as a set of 5 so you can always leave that extra one in the bag if you’re not knitting a big hat or an adult sleeve. I have these in sizes 3.5-5.5mm because I find them so handy. You can shop Lovecrafts range of addi double pointed knitting needles here.

    Other double pointed knitting needles to consider:

    Personally, I love anything by addi. They’re always such fun designs and so very useful. Being German, they scream practicality and functionality, but there’s also some cuteness there. I just love these needles. You can see Lovecrafts’ range of DPNs available here.

    Thank you for reading!

  • How to turn a square heel. Sock knitting tutorial for beginners: the Dutch heel.

    How to turn a square heel. Sock knitting tutorial for beginners: the Dutch heel.

    If you’ve been looking at sock knitting patterns and techniques lately, you may have noticed that as well as several styles of sock, there are also different styles of heels!

    I’m going to show you how to make and turn the square (Dutch) heel which is my favourite sock heel of all time. It’s such a convenient type of heel that I use it in all of my sock knitting patterns.

    In this tutorial, we’ll cover:

    • What a square heel is.
    • How it fits.
    • Why it’s a good choice for beginners.
    • Where you can practice it.
    • How to make it.
    socks with a square heel. The flock socks are slip stitch socks with an integrated dutch heel

    The flock socks (above) have a square heel.

    How is the square heel shaped and constructed?

    The square heel is shaped by making some simple increases, short row shaping and decreases. Don’t be put off by ‘short rows’ as it is simply knitting to a gap, turning around and knitting back to the next gap. It’s very easy to do once you understand the basics. I use M1R and M1L to increase the stitches. 

    Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable? 

    A square heel sits just under the heel of your foot. As the skin is usually harder here, I wouldn’t say that you can feel the edges of the heel underfoot. This experience could be different for you though! Some people who have a higher instep might prefer a bigger heel such as the flap and gusset heel but I’d still recommend trying all heels before your write any of them off. 

    This square heel is a neat convenient sock heel and is quite hard wearing too. If you just want a pair of classic knit socks that are a workhorse through cooler months, you have to try this heel. 

    Is there a heel flap and gusset? 

    Not quite. Increasing for the heel takes place as you are knitting the sock leg. That’s the gusset part! There is some flat knitting involved (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) when actually turning the heel but you never come away from the rest of the sock. There is no need to pick up any stitches along the sides of the heel. It is integrated into the sock. When it comes to decreasing back down to your original stitch count, you just make some decreases and some careful slipping of stitches to ensure that you don’t create any holes. 

    Is the square heel adjustable? 

    Yes, it is. Just add a stitch either side until you get to the desired width or if you have narrower heels, don’t increase as often as the pattern tells you to. 

    Here’s how to do a square heel. This example is from the advent mini sock pattern which can be found here. 

    This example heel is from my free sock knitting pattern here. 

    Increasing for heel: 

    Round 1: M1R, PM (marker 1), K16, PM (marker 2), M1L, Knit to end of round.  (2 sts increased)

    How to work a square sock heel. Dutch sock heel tutorial.

    Round 2: Knit all sts. 

    Round 3: Knit to marker 1, M1R, SM, Knit to marker 2, SM, M1L, Knit to end of round.  (2 sts increased)

    Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 2 times, until 8 new stitches have been created. 

    Increase stitches either side of the markers to make the square heel.

    You now have 24 sts for the heel, 16 sts for the instep and 40 sts in total.

    Decreasing for the heel 

    Row 1: Knit to marker 1, SM, K11, SKP, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.

    Short row sock heels. Dutch or square heel. Square heel shaping tutorial.

    Row 2: P7, P2tog. Turn. 

    Square heel tutorial. Work on the wrong side to do the purl decreases.

    Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before gap, SKP. Turn. 

    Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn. 

    Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 2 times. 

    There you have it- a square heel. 

    You have decreased back to the original stitch count: 16 sts for both the heel and the instep, and 32 sts in total. You should be right side facing, with marker 1 on your right-hand needle. 

    ‘Fixing gaps’ round: Remove marker 1, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1R and slip the bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to marker 2, remove marker, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1L and slip the twisted bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of round. 

    Thank you for supporting my work. As you know, I don’t run ads on my blog posts. If you’d like to show your support by leaving a tip, you can do so at Ko fi here. Thank you for visiting my blog!

    Mini sock knitting tutorial here:

    How to make a square heel. Dutch heel sock knitting tutorial. Easy square heel for socks