Category: Knitting and crochet

Learn to crochet. Learn to knit. Knitting and crochet patterns and tutorials. Find the best yarns to use for your crochet and knitting projects.

How to make pom poms. Making pom poms and choosing the best pom pom maker.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
In this post I’m going to show you how I make perfectly round, full pom poms for hats and other craft projects. Pom poms can be notorious for falling apart or falling off after a few wears but I’m going to show you how I make them tightly, securely and in a way that ensures they’re full and easy to attach.
I’ll also show you the tools I recommend for making your own pom poms with a standard pom pom maker or a novelty style pom pom maker.
First, let’s talk about what you will need and why.
Do I need a good pom pom maker?
This is entirely subjective as I believe the technique is more important than the kit you use but saying that, using a great pom pom maker will help. I’m using a Knitpro pom pom maker for this tutorial. You can use two pieces of card if you would prefer but this method I have used here is the best way for me. I’ve made several pom poms over the years and I keep coming back to the pom pom maker because:
1. It’s accessible.
2. I don’t need to find new cardboard each time I want a pom pom.
3. It’s ready to use every time you need it.
Here’s my favourite pom pom maker, the Knitpro (known as knitters pride in the US) maker. Click here to shop for the pom pom makers that I used.
Pom poms are always shown as very fluffy, poofy additions to handmade hats. I’m going to show you how to make the best pom pom you can.
Here’s what you actually need to make a great pom pom:
1. A pom pom maker. You can use any maker (I’ve recommended some in this guide). Just choose something that you find easy to use.
2. Sharp, sharp scissors. The best scissors for this job are fabric scissors. I used Fiskars scissors which can be found here.
3. A darning needle.
4. At least 25g of good quality yarn.
Why is yarn important?
How the yarn has been plied (how many strands were twisted to make the yarn) will matter when it comes to making pom poms. For example, a 2ply yarn (as in, plied twice, not 2ply weight) will tend to be looser with a roving texture. This doesn’t make for good pom pom yarn as it can come apart when you are pulling tightly and wrapping it around the pom pom maker.
The higher the ply, the stronger the yarn.
For this tutorial I am using 50g of 4ply yarn. It’s a merino yarn with 25% nylon and it is known as a good all rounder and is plied to ensure that it does not easily break when it meets some tension.
You need really strong yarn as you want something that can be pulled tightly without breaking. The fabric scissors will handle them when you come to cut your pom pom.
How to make a pom pom, step by step.
- Step 1:
Set up and open up your maker. You should have received instructions for this in your package.
- Step 2:
Using your thumb to hold the tail end of the yarn in place, start winding back and forth until the arm is covered. It can take a while, but be patient. It’ll be worth it!
- Step 3:
Wind the yarn until the hard edges of the maker are softened. At least 1mm of yarn thickness required. You shouldn’t be able to feel the edges of the maker when you press it between your thumb and forefinger.
- Step 4:
Open up the other pair of arms and start wrapping yarn around them.
Step 5: Cover the second pair of arms in the same way.
- Step 6:
When you’re happy with the thickness of the yarn wrap, it’s time to cut.
- Step 7:
Take your fabric scissors and cut, making sure that your scissors are placed in the groove of the maker. Cut all edges, making sure there are no uncut threads.
- Step 8:
Cut about 30cm (12in) of yarn. Tie it around the pom pom. Come around and tie the other side too and then finish with another tie and a knot. Make sure that you have tied the pom pom as tightly as you can.
- Step 9:
Release the pom pom and trim to size. Your pom pom should feel full, tightly secured and heavy.
If you want to know how to securely attach your pom pom to a hat, you can see the full video tutorial here:

Other makers to try in order to make great pom poms:
Benecreat wood pom pom makers.
These pom pom makers are similar to the classic style that we make out of card and cardboard, but as they’re wood, they last longer! You get 12 pieces in the set so it’s great value for a lot of different pom pom sizes. What I also like about this pom pom maker set is how the pieces are flat, meaning they store flat!
The pom pom loom maker.
This particular set is from woojfcang. These styles of maker have actually been praised for their ease of use for arthritic hands. There are no tricky parts to put together, making this pom pom maker one of the most accessible on the market.
What else I like about this style of maker is that it is a flat shape that can store really well in your craft bag. No pieces will come off or go missing, either. I have children, so I’ve lost half of my pom pom maker a few times!
This particular tool doubles as a tassel maker. It’s perfect for a range of crafts.
Novelty pom pom makers
Youngwier Heart Pom Pom Maker
I not doubt for a second that with some trimming of a regular pom pom, you could shape your own hearts but having done that myself, it’s messy and if you’re not well practised in topiary or hairdressing, you can mess it up! I have a heart pom pom maker.
Bear with me on this: when you first cut and release the yarn from this pom pom maker, it will just look like a regular pom pom at first. You will see though that it is slightly uneven. You then trim it to shape without having to guess, because it comes with instructions!
July 8, 2025

The Jewel Hat: Crochet Beanie Granny Stitch Pattern.

Jewel hat crochet beanie (100% crochet version)

This is the little sister of the Jewel Hat, with the main difference being that the hat is 100% crochet construction. FpHdc and BpHdc create a ribbed brim and bobble stitches create clusters of jewel like shapes across the hat. Add a pom pom for extra enjoyment.

If you’d prefer an ad-free version of this pattern, the PDF is available on Ravelry.

This pattern contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy any of the recommended supplies, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

All terms are in US terms. If you don’t know your crochet terms, I have a handy guide here.

Materials

75g, (100g, 125g)/ 3oz/3.5oz/4oz of worsted weight yarn such as Malabrigo Worsted or Cygnet Boho Spirit. ( 240m/262yds/ 100g.) Measurement includes pom pom.
5mm/ I-9 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Darning needle to weave in ends.
Pom pom maker (optional).

Gauge:
Rib: 16 Hdc sts and 24 rounds per 10cm (4in)
Body: 6 bobble stitches and 7 rounds per 10cm (4in)

To fit head size up to:

Small adult: 22 inches/ 55cm
Medium adult: 24 in/60cm
Large adult. 25 in/64cm

All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated.

worsted weight crochet beanie pattern. Image shows a granny stitch cluster hat.

Jewel hat crochet beanie in size M using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Dream.

Glossary:

Back post Hdc	Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Bobble st	Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
Ch sp	The space or gap created between stitches.
Front post Hdc	Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Hdc	Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Hdc rib	Hdc in the front post of the first stitch, back post hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
Sl	Slip stitch
St(s)	Stitch (stitches)

Special decrease:

When decreasing for the crown, work your bobble stitch over 2 chain spaces:
Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. (2 loops on hook)
Yarn over and insert hook into next ch sp, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and insert hook into same ch sp this time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Pull through all 4 loops on hook.

How to make your crochet beanie: Set up:

Chain 59 (63, 67) and turn.

Hdc into 4th ch from hook (counts as 1st Hdc) and Hdc in every st to end. Sl st into top of 1st Hdc to join the round. 56 (60, 64) Hdc sts in total.

Next round:

Ch 3. Work 6 (6,8) rounds in Hdc rib, using sl st to join rounds.

Jewel hat in largest size with Malabrigo worsted.

Round 1: Insert hook into top of last Hdc, Bobble st in same stitch (completes 1st bobble). *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 Bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first bobble using sl st. Turn.

Round 2: Ch 1 and Bobble in 1st Ch sp in ch sp. *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first Bobble using sl st. Turn.

Repeat round 2 for 5 (6,7) more rounds or until hat measures 20.5cm/8in from 1st hdc round.

Crown decreases:

Decrease round 1: Work 1 Bobble over 2 ch sp. Repeat to end.

Decrease round 2: Work 1 round even. Join with sl st in 1st

Bobble.

Repeat last 2 rounds once more. Fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing up.

Closing the crown.

Drawstring finish to close the crown:

With cut yarn, insert needle into top of every other chain around the hole. Pull to tighten. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Optional: Attach pom pom.

worsted weight crochet beanie free. Crochet hat pattern free. Simple crochet toque pattern. Beanie hats with cluster stitch

Jewel hat with the brim rolled back.

Crochet granny stitch beanie pattern free. Free crochet hat patterns. Crochet hat pattern easy

July 6, 2025

How to knit an ear warmer. Simple garter stitch headband tutorial for beginners.
Beginner-friendly tutorial showing you how to knit an ear warmer. This really simple design is also perfect for knitters looking to get through their stash.
Need a quick gift for a friend? Knit an ear warmer!
Need to practice casting on and casting off, but you don’t want to knit something tedious like a long scarf? Knit an ear warmer!
Do you just want a quick, satisfying project? Knit an ear warmer.
You get my point. In this tutorial I will talk you through how to cast on, knit garter stitch and cast off.
What you’ll need for this project:
- Aran weight yarn. I used Kiddies Supersoft Aran in Blush. You will need approx. 50g of yarn no matter which brand you choose.
- 5mm needles. In the tutorial, I’ve used 5mm circular needles (short, straight needles with a cord connecting them) but any needles are fine. Most beginners use straight needles.
- Scissors, for cutting your yarn at the end.
How to knit an ear warmer:
This is a beginner pattern, meaning anybody who knows how to cast on and knit can make this item.
Help! I don’t know how to do these things.
Here’s a video showing you how to cast on. I use a cast on called the backwards loop method. This is the method that I was taught. If you don’t like this style of cast on, there are many others that you can try before you settle on what feels comfortable for you.

Written instructions for this cast on:
- Take the tail end between your thumb and forefinger in your right hand.
- With your left hand, take the working yarn between your thumb and forefinger.
- Drape the yarn over the top of your next three fingers and round again so that the yarn just overlaps slightly.
- Turn your hand towards you.
- With your other hand (keep hold of the tail end), insert your knitting needle into the loop that is sitting across the top of your three fingers.
- Pull the working yarn to tighten the loop over the needle.
- Repeat to end.
Here’s how to knit the garter stitch. The garter stitch is the one we use to knit this ear warmer.
- Cast on the desired amount of stitches. In this video I have cast on 18 stitches.
- Insert the right hand needle into the front of the first stitch (it looks like a loop at this point) on the left hand needle.
- Take the working yarn and wrap it around the back of the right hand needle and bring it down towards you so that it will sit between the left hand and right hand needle.
- Insert your right hand needle back into the stitch and pull the stitch over the tip of the left hand needle onto the right hand needle.
- Repeat to end.
How to cast off:

Written instructions for cast off:
Casting off is pretty straightforward as long as you bear this in mind: If your tension is too tight when you cast off, you need to use a needle that is at least 0.5mm thicker. If your tension is too loose, use a smaller needle.
Instructions:
- Knit 2 stitches.
- Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
- Knit 1 stitch from the left hand needle. 2 needles remain on the right hand needle.
- Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
- Repeat step 3 and 4 to end.
Now that you’ve learned how to cast on, knit and cast off, here is the pattern for you to follow!
Knit an ear warmer:
Cast on 18 sts
Knit every row until piece measures 4 inches (10cm) less than your head width:
- If your head measures 21 inches, Knit to 17 inches.
- If your heard measures 22 inches, Knit to 18 inches.
- If our head measures 23 inches, Knit to 19 inches.
Cast off.
Placing right sides together, fold the piece in half lengthways and then pinch each end so that they’re halved widthways. Slot the folded pieces together to create 4 layers and an S shape. Sew up all 4 layers together.
Cut yarn and fasten off. Turn right side out and admire your handiwork.
See the full video below to see a demonstration of the pinched twist and the finishing.
July 6, 2025

Totes Crochet Bag. Free Granny Square Tote Bag Pattern.

Free crochet tote bag pattern. Free corchet granny square pattern for beginners. Crochet a bag.

If you love granny squares and functional crochet, here is a pattern for a simple crochet bag that uses joined up granny squares. This is a free pattern for a crochet tote bag.

Can a beginner make this crochet bag? Here’s a quick skill check:

You should be able to:

Make a chain.
Make the basic crochet stitches e.g. double crochet and single crochet. If you need help with your crochet terms, I have a guide here.
Make a granny square. Here’s a free tutorial if you’re not sure how to crochet a granny square.
Join granny squares. Here’s how.

Totes crochet bag

The Totes crochet bag is a simple design for a crochet bag. This is a pattern for a simple cotton crochet tote bag using granny squares and a combination of slip stitch, double and single crochet.

Use this crochet bag for anything. The straps will be worked continuously rather than sewn on for added strength.

Materials:

1 4mm crochet hook
Cygnet 100% Cotton DK (100g per ball): 1 x Smokey Purple, 1 x Pepper, 1 x Peony Pink, 1 x Golden, 1 x Spring, 2 x Vanilla Cream.
Darning needle

Here is the link to the video playlist. The videos do not replace the pattern instructions; they are there as support with visualising the project. It is still useful to learn to read the written instructions to develop your skills.

I use US crochet terms throughout.

Glossary:

Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull through the 1 loop on the hook.
Ch sp	The space of gap that has been created by stitches.
Dc	Double crochet stitch: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sc	Single crochet stitch.Insert hook into the chain or stitch, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2.
Sl st	Slip stitch. Insert hook into chain or chain space, yarn over and pull through.
RS	Right side of the work.
WS	Wrong side of the work.

You can see in the square above where the corners are and how we only increase in corners.

Step 1: Granny squares (Make 8)

Round 1.

Using yarn A, ch 4. Sl st to join with the 1st chain.
Ch 2 and dc 2 times into the centre of the ring.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into centre of the ring. (6 dcs in total.)
Repeat last step 2 more times. (12 dcs in total)
Sl st into top of first dc chain to join the round.

Round 2:

Using. yarn B, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. First corner done.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into next ch sp. Ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 2 twice more.
Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 3

Using yarn C, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp.
Ch 2 and work 3 dcs into next ch sp to corner ch sp
Ch 2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 1 and 2 to end.
Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 4 and 5:

Changing colours (Yarn D and E) at the beginning of each round, work instructions for round 3, 2 more times until you have 5 completed rounds in total.

Border:

Using Vanilla Cream (Yarn F) join new yarn and work 1 dc into the top of every dc stitch, and 2 dcs in every ch sp to end. Sl st to close round.

Assembly:

The squares are joined in pairs and then as fours after some distancing with dc stitch.

Panels (Make 4)

With RS together and yarn F, Sl st to join across one side from the top right corner to the top left corner.

Dc in every dc for two rows across the top of each panel.

Joining panels.

With RS facing, lay the upper panel facing the lower panel. The lower edge of the upper panel should be in line with the upper edge of the top panel. Sl st across to join. The dc rows will now be in the centre and across the top of the bag.

You will now have two rectangular pieces: The front and the back of the bag.

Edges:

Vertical (side) edge:

With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows.

Horizontal (bottom) edge:

With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows.

Joining the bag.

With RS facing, starting at the top right corner, use sl st joining method to join the vertical seam, horizontal (bottom) seam and back up the left side vertical seam.

Straps (make 2)

Using removable stitch markers or safety pins , mark 5 stitches at the top of the bag that sit in line with the centre of each top granny square on the front and the back of the bag. You need to mark 4 areas of the bag.

Using yarn E, join new yarn and dc 5 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

Work 39 more rows.

Sl st to join with the marked strap area of the opposite side.

Repeat for second strap.

Weave in ends and enjoy!

July 4, 2025

How to crochet a circle. Crochet circle pattern for beginners. Crochet a flat circle that doesn’t curl or frill.
This is a free pattern for a crochet circle. How to crochet a flat circle
Creating your first crochet circle is really tough, especially when you don’t know how to make it bigger or how to make it lie flat. With this pattern I can explain how to:
1. Start the circle
2. Increase the circle
3. Make it lie flat
Materials required:
- 50g/1.75oz of cotton DK yarn such as Cygnet cotton DK (100% cotton, 200m/219 yd per 100g/3.5oz ball) Any DK yarn will do here.
- 3.75mm/F-5 crochet hook.
- Scissors
- Darning needle
Terms are written in US crochet terms throughout. Not sure what they are? Here’s a handy blog post explaining US and UK crochet terms.
It’s so handy to know how to make a crochet circle. They’re not just great for granny square designs but you can also make circles big enough to be place mats, bags or cushion covers. Have fun learning how to make a crochet circle that stays flat!
When you’re done with the tutorial, I’ve included some fun crochet kits that you can try. They will not only help you to practice the crochet circle, but they will help you learn how to make other useful crochet shapes for home decor and toys!
Now for the tutorial with step by step photos. Here’s how I make a circle in crochet.
Step 1: Make a slipknot and make a chain of 6 sts.
Step 2: Slip stitch with the 1st chain (not the slipknot) to create a ring.
Step 4: Chain 3 (counts as 1st double crochet stitch)
Step 5: Make another double crochet into the centre of the ring.
Step 6: Make 10 more double crochet stitches into the centre of the ring. (12 sts in total).
Step 7: Slip stitch to join the top of the chain 3 to the last dc. First round complete. (12 sts)
Next round:
Step 1: Chain 3 (counts as 1st double crochet)
Step 2: Make a double crochet stitch into the base of the chain 3. (1st increase done)
Step 3: Make 2 double crochet stitches into the next stitch.
Step 4: Make 2 double crochet stitches in every stitch around. (24 sts)
Step 5: Slip stitch with first chain 3 to close the round.
Next round and all subsequent rounds:
Every round needs to increase by 12 stitches in order to retain shape and lie flat.
Round 3:
Start the round in the same way as the previous round but this time, make an increase every other stitch not every stitch. (36 sts)
Round 4: Start the round in the same way as the previous round but this time, make an increase every 3rd stitch. That means there’s an increase in every 4th stitch.
Round 5 and all other rounds: Increase every 4th, 5th and 6th stitch per round. Make sure that the amount of stitches per round has increased by no more or less than 12 stitches.
Why not use your finished circle as a cute mat for plants or a placemat?
Crochet circles don’t always sit flat the first time around. here are some possible issues that will arise and how you can fix them:
Circle starting to resemble an Elizabethan ruff?
You have too many increases. Check to see whether you have made the appropriate amount of increases. If there are too many, start the round again.
Circle starting to turn in like a bowl?
You haven’t made enough increases.
Neither of the above solutions working?
Change yarn and/or hook. It could be a tension issue. Always go up or down by 0.5mm until you reach your desired flatness.
Email info@germandercottagecrafts.co.uk or visit my Youtube channel for further pattern help.
Patterns featuring crochet circles to inspire you:
Please note, there are affiliate links here. This means that if you choose to purchase, I do receive a small commission at no further cost to you.
Hoooked DIY Crochet Zpagetti Pouf Kit. Practice your crochet in-the-round with this quick and comfy Zpagettii pouf. They’ve been around for a while but we’re still loving the look of a knitted and crochet poufs. Its soft textural shape of Zpagetti t-shirt yarns is both simple and complicated. With this DIY complete kit you can make your own affordable pouf. We have included a pair of jumbo knitting needles and also a crochet hook and both patterns so you can pick your favourite craft technique. This Hoooked knit & crochet set is also great as a creative DIY gift for a special someone. With this complete Hoooked kit you can cover a pouf with a cross section of 65-70 centimeters and a height of 30-40 centimeters.
Paintbox yarns cotton Aran Daisy The Chick Crochet Kit. Practice your amigurumi skills with this adorable crochet chick kit. If you know how to crochet a circle, you can make cute little stuffed items like this!
DMC Mindful Making The Peaceful Plant Pot Holders Crochet Kit. This kit will help you crochet a flat circle and also learn how to make it curl up on purpose to create the cylindrical shape perfect for pots, vases and bowls! Give your desk a mindful makeover with these gorgeous crochet plant pot holders.
June 19, 2025
There are many ways to knit socks.
Are you sitting down? I’m going to talk you through the many ways to knit socks.
Last year I received a refund request from a customer. They weren’t happy with their sock knitting kit and wanted a refund on the needles. The customer’s words were something like “there’s circular needles in here. No good for knitting socks!”
Let’s ignore the fact that the contents of the kit will have been clearly listed before purchase and that I am a knitwear designer and hopefully know a thing or two about knitting socks. Let’s focus on the “no good for knitting socks!” How do you know? Have you tried?
After talking the customer round (excuse the pun) they were willing to give the circulars a try. I introduced them to the method of magic loop knitting. They had never heard of this before. If you knit, every day is a school day. There are many, many ways to do something that achieves the same results as something else. Magic loop is just one method.
This article may contain affiliate links, meaning that if you choose to shop through any of the links, I do earn a small commission.
Long circular needles (magic loop)
Long circular needles aren’t just for hats and garments. You can use them for knitting flat as they are lighter and more compact than traditional straight knitting needles. What knitters do to make socks with long circulars is to choose circulars with a very long cable. I usually recommend 80cm or 100cm for socks. This cable is then pulled through to provide a loop on either side of the work.
In these photos I’m using Addi lace circulars with an 80cm cable.
I seem to find that if I was to join in the round at cast on (by pulling the cord through the halfway point of the stitches) I end up with a tangled mess and twisted stitches. This can be avoided entirely by knitting the first round in one flat row. When you have established the first row, simply pull the cord through the halfway point of stitches and carry on knitting. You will be left with the smallest of gaps at the top of the cuff but you can easily seam it closed at the end.
Louise Tilbrook has a really handy tutorial for magic loop here
Knitting on short circular needles
There are also short circulars. They’re brilliant for knitting the legs and the feet but you will need to switch to other circulars or DPNs for toe shaping. That’s not a preference thing- it’s just not physically possible to shape toes on 9 inch circulars.
What I will say about the 9in circulars is that they create a tighter knit in my opinion. You definitely need to review your tension compared to when you use other methods.
Louise Tilbrook has a tutorial on knitting with tiny needles here. It can be hard to get to grips with them at first but if you can, it’s worth it.
Knitting with niche needles
There are also these funky little things called CraSyTrio. I think they’re awesome because they have the flexibility of the circular needle but a similar setup to double pointed needles.
Double pointed needles
Your experience with these will vary from “knitting ninja” to “fighting with a hedgehog” but if you persevere, I think you’ll be all right. I was wary of double pointed needles for a long time. I feared the complicated set up and when I started out, I would get myself into a tangle or lose my patience when one of the needles kept slipping off.
You may want to consider starting your DPN journey with something bigger like a sleeve or a hat. This will help you to practice and there’s more chance of you noticing dropped stitches with thicker yarn.
DPN hack: Cast on all of your stitches on one slightly larger needle. Using your smaller DPN needles, knit the set amount of divided stitches onto each needle. You will then have all stitches accounted for without having dropped your DPNs during cast on. Some patterns even tell you how many stitches to have on each needle e.g. there may be more stitches on the 3rd needle as that is the heel needle.
If you need help choosing DPNs to knit with I have a blog post here.
You can knit socks flat
Even though knitting socks in the round is incredibly popular, there will always be knitters who prefer knitting them flat. I believe that these knitters are often left behind when it comes to sock design. Luckily, you can get a good range of flat knit socks thanks to the internet. I have a pattern for flat knit socks here that avoids all the requirements for stitch holders and multiple seams. Just sew up one seam at the end and you’re done.
I hope you can find the time to explore all methods or practice a favourite.
Hanna
Sock knitting patterns to try!
Easy flat knit, two needle socks.
The Andalusian Stitch Socks
Simple cuff-down beginner socks.
June 17, 2025
Andalusian stitch socks. Free sock knitting pattern for a pair of simple, rib textured socks.
The Andalusian stitch is one of my favourite stitches. It’s elegant, detailed and this is without having to do anything particularly complicated. This is a simple knit and purl stitch, and even someone trying socks for the first time could do this pattern. This sock pattern comes in three sizes and covers most adult foot sizes. Please make sure you measure around your foot before proceeding. Socks have negative ease, meaning they may seem small but that’s because they need to stretch to stay in place!
Here’s a quick description of what the andalusian stitch actually is:
Rounds 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat from * to end.
This is the Andalusian stitch pattern.
The Andalusian stitch socks are a simple, detailed sock design that are perfect for intermediate knitters looking to experiment with more textured detail.
This pattern is available for free with ads, or, if preferred, you can get a handy PDF from Ko fi or Ravelry.
This article does contain affiliate links, meaning that if you decide to purchase via the links, I earn a small commission.
These are adult socks worked in the round from the cuff down. The textured Andalusian stitch pattern requires only knit and purl stitches to create a broken rib effect. I used a semi solid colour to emphasise the texture of both the sock and the heel. The heel is shaped using increases and decreases, and the toe is grafted together using the kitchener method.
For this sock pattern, I used High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway, and it costs around £20. As this was a hand dyed yarn, sometimes the exact match won’t be available. Here’s a list of suitable alternatives to suit your budget:
Other yarns to use for this pattern according to budget.
King Cole Footsie 4ply: This 4ply sock yarn comes in a limited colour palette but it is only £5.54 ($7.40USD) per ball. You get a whopping 430m per ball, too. It’s excellent value and as it’s a solid colour, you’ll be able to see the stitches clearly! King Cole Footsie 4ply is a 100% synthetic yarn (93% acrylic, 7% other), so if you’re not fussed on wool or can’t wear it, this sock yarn is a better choice.
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply: This yarn would work in a solid or self striping colourway. The yarn amount is the same and the gauge will be similar too. It’s not as ‘shiny’ as some hand dyed socks are, but the wool is still soft and incredibly comfortable. The crispness of the wool would ensure excellent stitch definition in this pattern particularly. I would recommend a colour like Poppy Seed, Pennyroyal or Fuchsia. Pennyroyal is pictured below.
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply costs between £7.50 and £9
Malabrigo Ultimate Sock: This 4ply yarn is at the more luxurious end of sock yarns. It’s 75% merino wool, so is very soft with that slight sheen. It is also hand dyed, so would look lovely with the texture of this sock pattern. It comes in a range of colours and is proced at or around £17.99, but one skein will do.
The colour shown below is Zinnias (658).
To make these socks, you will need to be familiar with the square heel. There’s a step by step photo tutorial here and a video below.

How to knit the Andalusian stitch socks.
Glossary
DPN: Double pointed needles
K: Knit
K1, P1 rib: Knit 1 stitch, purl one stitch
K2tog: Knit two stitches together
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the one you are about to knit, bringing the needle from the front to the back. Knit into the back of the stitch.
M1R: Pick up the bar between the stitch you have just knitted and the next stitch, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Knit into the front.
P: Purl
P2tog: Purl two stitches together
PM: Place marker
PSSO: Pass slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
RS: Right side
SKP: Slip one, knit one, PSSO
SL: Slip stitch
SM: Slip marker
St(s): Stitch(es)
WS: Wrong side
Gauge
35 stitches and 52 rounds = 10cm/4in using 2.5mm (US 1.5) needles
Materials
- High Twist Sock by Little Grey Girl Yarns (75% Superwash Merino & 25% Nylon) – 425m/465yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shown in the Avenell colorway.
- Darning needle
- 4 stitch markers
- 2.5mm (US 1.5) circular (80cm/32in cable for magic loop) or DPNs or size needed for gauge.
if you don’t have any suitable needles yet, I have a handy blog post here about DPNs, and one about circular needles to help you choose.
Leg/foot circumference
Size 1: 6.5 in/16cm
Size 2: 7.5 in/18cm
Size 3: 8in/21cm
The Pattern
Cuff
Loosely cast on 56 (64 72) sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 1×1 twisted rib for 2.5cm/1in.
Starting the leg of your andalusian stitch socks:
PM after the first 28 (32 36) sts to establish halfway point.
Rounds 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4: *P1, K1; repeat from * to end.
This is the Andalusian stitch pattern.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until leg measures 18cm/7.25in from cast on.
Shaping your square (Dutch) sock heel.
When working the heel, continue in the Andalusian stitch pattern for the stitches after the halfway marker. The heel and the underside of foot will be in knit stitch from now on.
Round 1:
M1R, PM (marker 2) and K 28 (32, 36) stitches, PM (marker 3) and M1L, SM (marker 1). Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round.
Round 2:
K to halfway marker, Andalusian st pattern to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rnd 3:
K to marker 2, M1R, SM, K 28 (32, 36) sts, SM and M1L, SM. Work Andalusian st pattern to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have created 20 (22, 24) sts.
Turning the heel of your sock:
Working only with the first 48 (54, 60) sts continue as follows:
Short row 1: (RS) K to marker, SM, K 17 (20, 23) sts, SL1, K1 PSSO. This will now be referred to as SKP. Turn.
Short row 2: (WS) P 7 (9, 11) sts, P2tog. Turn.
Short row 3: (RS) K to 1 st before the gap which has formed, SKP. Turn.
Short row 4: (WS) P until 1 st before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until there are 28 (32, 36) sts between the beginning of the round and the halfway marker (marker 1). This was the amount that you started with and your work should be RS facing with marker 2 on your right hand needle. 56 (64, 72) sts in total.
Set up in the round:
Rnd 1:
Remove marker 2. Insert needle as though making a M1R but instead of knitting, SL the twisted st on to right hand needle. K1 and PSSO. K to marker 3, remove marker 3, insert needle as though making a M1L but slip the twisted stitch onto left hand needle and K2tog. SM, K to end.
Foot:
K to halfway marker, Andalusian pattern to end of round until foot measures 2.5cm/1in less than desired length.
Toe
Rnd 1: *SKP, K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; repeat from to end. (4 sts decreased in total)
Rnd 2: K to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 36 (36, 40) sts in total.
THEN, decrease on every round until you have 20 (20, 24) sts in total. Remove marker 1.
Finishing
Using kitchener method, graft the remaining sts together to close the toe. Weave in ends.
Thanks for using my andalusian stitch sock knitting pattern. Did you make a pair? Let me know in the comments. If you’d like, you can send me a photo of the socks and I’ll post them in the projects gallery here!
June 17, 2025
Sock knitting with two straight needles. Can you knit socks flat?
Wondering how to knit socks on straight needles? Try this two needle flat sock pattern. You can have all the glamour of 4ply socks without the worry of extra needles.
This article about knitting socks on straight needles contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy, I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Despite there being thousands of socks knit in the round. there is still strong demand for the flat knit sock pattern. This method is perfect for those of us who prefer knitting with two straight needles but want to try socks.
When I proposed the idea of designing one last spring, it was met with some scepticism. Why would anyone want to knit flat when you can knit with socks in the round? Where will the seam go? Will it be comfortable? It will be too much hassle with a toe seam, a heel seam or a side seam.
I managed to solve all of these potential issues. It is now my bestseller. There is good reason for it; not everybody wants to knit in the round. As a designer, I have always believed that design should solve problems as well as appeal to needs. If you prefer two sticks to four sticks, that’s absolutely fine. In fact, I am so happy with offering choice that I am working on my first two needle sock knitting ebook this year.
Every now and then I see enquiries pop up in Facebook knitting groups along the lines of ‘where can I find a 2 needle sock pattern?’.
Here! You can find one here!.
What’s so special about my best selling flat knit sock pattern? A few things!
- They are made using 4ply sock yarn.
- They are cuff down.
- They are worked flat the whole way- even the heel.
- There is no heel seam to put on a stitch holder.
- There is no toe seam to put on a stitch holder.
- There is no side seam either.
What? How does this even work?
You knit from the cuff to the heel, increase for the heel, work some short rows (don’t be scared, it’s easier than it seems), knit to the toe, do some more decreases, and seam up the front.
The true difficulty depends on your seaming skills to be honest. If you choose a solid colour, you can hide the seam easier than striped, but that shouldn’t matter. It’s a sock. It will be worn under trousers and shoes. Also, in my experience people don’t tend to inspect my knitwear.
Need help choosing sock yarns?
Here I’ll recommend my favourite sock knitting yarns and tell you a bit about them:
West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply Sock Yarn.
It doesn’t get any better than this, sorry. West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply is such a straightforward, everyday sock yarn. It’s perfect because it’s a blend of British wool and some nylon for strength. I’ve used it for most of my sock designs, and have quite a bit in my stash. Other reasons why it’s great include:
- It comes in a 100g ball. Perfect for a pair of adult socks.
- It comes in a huge range of colours.
- The yarn smells deliciously sheepy (if you know, you know.)
- It comes in self-striping as well as solid or marl.
I’ve even used WYS Signature 4ply in my sock knitting patterns. You can find my basic cuff-down sock knitting pattern by clicking the image below.
June 16, 2025
How to knit with double pointed knitting needles. DPN tutorial.
In this post we will explore double pointed knitting needles. These are also known as DPN and come in sets of 4 or 5 needles. They also come in 15cm (6in), 20cm (8in) and even 30cm (12in) and 40cm (15in) for larger projects such as adult sweaters!
DPNs are really useful when it comes to knitting things in the round. They are incredibly handy when knitting something small like the finger of a glove, or a baby sleeve.
Knitting with double pointed knitting needles can look really complicated, but once you realise you’re only ever knitting with two needles at a time you will be able to knit in the round easily with these handy sets of needles.
In this article, we will be looking at:
- How to cast on with double pointed knitting needles (video or step by step photo tutorial)
- What kind of needles you will need for your project.
- How to choose your next set of double pointed knitting needles.
Find out more about double pointed knitting needles below.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you choose to shop via any of the links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Here’s how to cast on and knit with double pointed knitting needles.
Ever wanted to try double pointed needles but were put off by how complicated they look? Maybe after seeing how to cast on and knit with them, you might see past the entangled hedgehog and feel more confident about giving them a try.
Here’s a video showing you how to knit with double pointed needles. There is also a step by step photo tutorial on this page.

What are double pointed needles used for?
You can use DPNs (double pointed needles) to knit absolutely anything in the round. You can use short ones such as 10cm and 15cm to knit socks and mittens, then there’s 20cm needles for hats and cowls. There are also 40cm double pointed needles to knit garments on. They’re very versatile and knitters have been using them for at least a century. That’s a long enougn lifespan to justify their usefulness, don’t you think?
Double pointed needles come in a range of materials and textures too. Wood needles are probably the lightest, with aluminium, plastic and steel not far behind. You can try the different materials out and see what’s right for you. Wood needles have a bit more flex so can therefore be more forgiving for a loose-tensioned hand. The steel needles may be more slippery and less useful for you but you won’t know until you try them as they can have excellent precision on lace knitting and picking up stitches.
This blog post is all about getting you started with double pointed needles. Take your time, be patient and have a go!
Casting on with double pointed needles:
To cast on, cast on like you would with a traditional, straight needle. A problem for many beginners is casting on too tightly and this can cause your stitches to twist, so here’s what I do:
Cast on across two needles held together. This forces some space between the stitches and allows you to easily get the next needle into the stitches. If your cast on method doesn’t work with this two needle technique, just cast on with one larger, straight needle.
For the sake of this tutorial, let’s call them needle 1, 2 and 3 with an active needle.
In this example here I have a 4mm straight needle to cast on with and I’m using 3mm double pointed needles for the rest of the project. This needle with no stitches on it will be needle 1.
When you have cast on the desired amount of stitches, use just one of the spare needles to start knitting. Let’s say that in this example it is a sock that we are knitting, we would be doing rib stitches (K1, P1).
Decide how many needles you want to use to knit your project.
Double pointed needles come in sets of 4 or 5. Most knitters will use 3 or 4 needles to hold stitches and 1 needle as the active needle.
In this example, I’m knitting stitches using the active needle. This will become needle 1. I’ve called it the ‘active’ needle and as you knit in the round, there should always be one free or ‘active’ needle for picking up the stitches.
Now I’m knitting another batch of stitches onto the active needle. This will be needle 2.
When you’ve decided how many stitches you need to have on each of the needles, just keep knitting across them with the active needle. The active needle will change every time you finish a set of stitches. In the photo above, I’m knitting the second set of stitches with my active needle.
If you’ve cast on over two needles, you can remove one of them when knitting the last set of stitches as you’ll need a new active needle to create needle 3.
When you’ve knit across all of the cast on stitches, it is time to join to work in the round. All you have to do is bring the first needle back to your right hand. It should have the tail end with it. I’ve knit across needle 1, 2 and 3 and have an active needle (4th needle). You can do this easily by flipping the entire project over.
To join, knit the first stitch of needle 3 with the active needle.
This will cause them to join in the round. You just keep knitting across the needles until you get to the desired length.
If you’re knitting something larger like a hat or even a garment, you may want to use 4 needles plus the active needle.
How do I stop the needles slipping off?
If you are starting out and don’t feel confident keeping control of the needles, this can be due to loose tension/things getting caught,
To ensure the needles don’t point vertically and slip out of your stitches, you can try any of these things:
- Knit over a desk so that the needles stay mostly horizontal.
- Knit over a cushion on your lap. This will stop the needles from dropping anywhere.
- Make sure your sleeves aren’t long and getting in the way. Roll them up or wear short sleeves when you’re using your DPNs for the first few times.
- Try not to hold the needles up to your face to see stitches. This can cause them to slip off. Make sure you have good lighting and can see the project well.
- Use needle stoppers. These are usually rubber shapes such as cones or balls that stop stitches slipping off the needles. Whilst they are very practical for needle storage and holding projects when you’re not using them, they might be a bit of a hassle if you have to remove them every time you knit onto the next needle.
As your tension improves, your needles should stay on the stitches.
Using double pointed needles shouldn’t be scary
At the end of the day, you are only ever knitting with two needles at any one time. Don’t let other knitters put you off using double pointed needles. There are often well meaning but unhelpful suggestions to “just use magic loop” or “buy these types instead” but I think it’s important that you try things out before deciding what is and isn’t for you. For all you know, you could love using double pointed needles.
Which DPNs are right for me?
There are many types of knitting needles due to personal preference. Some knitters prefer lightweight, wood needles while others prefer metals like steel and aluminium. Generally, plastic and aluminium are at the cheaper end of the range available, but they’re great to have if you’re just learning! Take a look at these types below to see what you would prefer when it comes to knitting with double pointed needles.
Lykke Driftwood Double Pointed Knitting Needles (6in)
Many knitters swear by LYKKE needles and it’s simple to understand why: they’re lightweight and available in natural materials. These driftwood needles are 16 Sizes (2mm – 9mm).
Lykke is the Norwegian word for happiness, which is certainly what you’ll be feeling by using their range of knitting and crochet accessories.
As global demand is increasing for our products, this community of skilled workers is growing too, expanding our output capacity. High quality materials and thoughtful design details produce the most beautiful and durable products. The craftsmanship is really something to admire! All knitting needles and crochet hooks are handcrafted and assembled in Nepal by Nepalese craftspeople.
These needles are renowned for their reputation of being strong and flexible with a smoothness that won’t snag! Buy now and add something special to your craft bag.
Addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles.
These little needles are so smooth and lightweight. I used them in some of the images above, as well as the video. This is because I was knitting something really small (a mini sock) and didn’t want long, heavy needles getting stuck on the desk as I worked. The addi bamboo double pointed knitting needles are small as well as light, so they’re really handy for on-the-go knitting or working with something tiny, like a toy!
What I particularly like about these needles is how smooth they are. They’re waxed, so they don’t splinter easily and the yarn glides down the shaft just as it would with a metal needle. I would suggest using bamboo knitting needles for acrylic yarns as the plastic on plastic you get with Pony needles for example can be quite squeaky! Not ideal if you’re sensitive to that kind of thing.
They’re also getting my vote because they come in 6 handy sizes. Start really small with 2mm and work your way up to 4mm. They’re absolutely perfect for tiny things like toys, socks and gloves.
Addi grey aluminium double pointed knitting needles
These double pointed needles are my absolute favourite, ever. They’re a great size for socks and mitts as well as sleeves. I swear these needles make me knit faster! They’re so simple and in the years I’ve owned addi aluminium needles, none have bent. I’ve had my longer straight needles kink, and my thinner knitpro needles bend, but not these. My addi’s have been loyal to me and are fantastic for knitting sleeves for my kids’ stuff as well as for my own. I think the 20cm length are perfect for sleeves and hats as once you’ve separated the stitches, they don’t go riding off the edge easily.
They’re smooth, coated metal so there’s no snagging or pulling on your stitches. I wouldn’t recommend them if your hands are sensitive to the cold (the bamboo or driftwood needles are better suited in this department) but they’re great and they’re still my favourite. As with most needles, they come in several sizes so they’ll suit a variety of projects. They come as a set of 5 so you can always leave that extra one in the bag if you’re not knitting a big hat or an adult sleeve. I have these in sizes 3.5-5.5mm because I find them so handy. You can shop Lovecrafts range of addi double pointed knitting needles here.
Other double pointed knitting needles to consider:
Personally, I love anything by addi. They’re always such fun designs and so very useful. Being German, they scream practicality and functionality, but there’s also some cuteness there. I just love these needles. You can see Lovecrafts’ range of DPNs available here.
Thank you for reading!
June 16, 2025
How to turn a square heel. Sock knitting tutorial for beginners: the Dutch heel.
If you’ve been looking at sock knitting patterns and techniques lately, you may have noticed that as well as several styles of sock, there are also different styles of heels!
I’m going to show you how to make and turn the square (Dutch) heel which is my favourite sock heel of all time. It’s such a convenient type of heel that I use it in all of my sock knitting patterns.
In this tutorial, we’ll cover:
- What a square heel is.
- How it fits.
- Why it’s a good choice for beginners.
- Where you can practice it.
- How to make it.
The flock socks (above) have a square heel.
How is the square heel shaped and constructed?
The square heel is shaped by making some simple increases, short row shaping and decreases. Don’t be put off by ‘short rows’ as it is simply knitting to a gap, turning around and knitting back to the next gap. It’s very easy to do once you understand the basics. I use M1R and M1L to increase the stitches.
Where does a square heel sit? Is it comfortable?
A square heel sits just under the heel of your foot. As the skin is usually harder here, I wouldn’t say that you can feel the edges of the heel underfoot. This experience could be different for you though! Some people who have a higher instep might prefer a bigger heel such as the flap and gusset heel but I’d still recommend trying all heels before your write any of them off.
This square heel is a neat convenient sock heel and is quite hard wearing too. If you just want a pair of classic knit socks that are a workhorse through cooler months, you have to try this heel.
Is there a heel flap and gusset?
Not quite. Increasing for the heel takes place as you are knitting the sock leg. That’s the gusset part! There is some flat knitting involved (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) when actually turning the heel but you never come away from the rest of the sock. There is no need to pick up any stitches along the sides of the heel. It is integrated into the sock. When it comes to decreasing back down to your original stitch count, you just make some decreases and some careful slipping of stitches to ensure that you don’t create any holes.
Is the square heel adjustable?
Yes, it is. Just add a stitch either side until you get to the desired width or if you have narrower heels, don’t increase as often as the pattern tells you to.
Here’s how to do a square heel. This example is from the advent mini sock pattern which can be found here.
This example heel is from my free sock knitting pattern here.
Increasing for heel:
Round 1: M1R, PM (marker 1), K16, PM (marker 2), M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Round 2: Knit all sts.
Round 3: Knit to marker 1, M1R, SM, Knit to marker 2, SM, M1L, Knit to end of round. (2 sts increased)
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 2 times, until 8 new stitches have been created.
You now have 24 sts for the heel, 16 sts for the instep and 40 sts in total.
Decreasing for the heel
Row 1: Knit to marker 1, SM, K11, SKP, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.
Row 2: P7, P2tog. Turn.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before gap, SKP. Turn.
Row 4: Purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 2 times.
There you have it- a square heel.
You have decreased back to the original stitch count: 16 sts for both the heel and the instep, and 32 sts in total. You should be right side facing, with marker 1 on your right-hand needle.
‘Fixing gaps’ round: Remove marker 1, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1R and slip the bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to marker 2, remove marker, insert needle into gap as if to make a M1L and slip the twisted bar onto the right-hand needle, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of round.
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Mini sock knitting tutorial here:
June 14, 2025