Blog

  • Shawls are the easiest thing to crochet.

    Shawls are the easiest thing to crochet.

    Common questions for crochet beginners include ‘what’s the easiest thing to crochet?’ ‘Which is the best crochet stitch?’ ‘How do you crochet a shawl?’ and hopefully I can shed some light on the answers for you by showing you the best shawls and stitches for crochet beginners. 

    1. Is a shawl the easiest crochet project for beginners? 

    I would argue that a shawl is an easy beginner project. A shawl might seem fancy or out of your reach but let’s break it down: 

    • It’s a straightforward shape, whether it be a rectangle, triangle, half circle or full circle. 
    • There’s no seaming up (usually). 
    • It eats up stash yarn no problem and gives purpose to a pretty yarn cake or a hand dyed skein. 
    • You can make a shawl in any weight of yarn and still get something wearable. 
    • You can make an entire shawl by using only one type of stitch, making it great practice for beginners. 

    2. How do I crochet a shawl? 

    There are many ways to make a shawl. You could start from one corner and work your way to the other with increase and decreases, start small and end big by increasing only or chain a long chain and make a rectangle shawl. 

    For beginners, aim for a shawl that uses one of these stitches: 

    • Double crochet (UK treble)
    • Half double crochet (UK half treble)
    • Triple stitch (UK Double treble)

    These stitches are recommended because of how quick they grow. They’re also taller than the single crochet stitch (UK double) so you will be less likely to get tired of the shawl after a couple of weeks. 

    3. Remember your increases and decreases. 

    Depending on the shawl, you may need to know how to increase or decrease. For example, the Daphne shawl starts at the yoke (the small semi circle) and grows out widthways. 

    Easy crochet shawl patterns| Half circle crochet shawl| best crochet shawls for beginners. Shawls are a great introductory pattern for crocheters.

    To increase, simply make the stitch (in this case it is the double crochet stitch) twice into one chain instead of once. 

    If you’d like something a little easier, the Aurora Nox shawl uses only one type of stitch after you’ve set up the yoke. It also has no edging, meaning you can just focus on the stitch pattern. 

    Crochet shawls for beginners. the easiest shawls to crochet if you're a beginner. Why should beginners try shawls? reasons why shawls are great for beginners.

    Again, it looks more complicated than it actually is! You can read more about the shawl and the featured stitch pattern here. 

    Decreases 

    To decrease, you can either skip a stitch, or join stitches together. Unless otherwise specified, the decrease will usually be called “dc2tog” or “hdc2tog”. 

    Example for double crochet stitch: 

    1. Yarn over and insert hook into the chain. Yarn over and pull through. 2 loops on hook. 

    2. Yarn over and pull through 2, leaving 2 loops on the hook. 

    3. Yarn over and insert hook into the next chain. Yarn over and pull through. 3 loops on hook. 

    4. Yarn over and pull through 2, leaving 2 loops on hook.

    5. Yarn over and pull through 2, leaving 1 loop on hook. 

    You will see that the 2 stitches have been joined together to make one stitch. 

    Rectangular shawls

    There are several ways to make a rectangle shawl. Here is the Lost and found wrap which is made by simply making a long chain and working side to side until the end. 

    This shawl pattern calls for 4ply (fingering weight) yarn but you could easily use a DK or worsted with a larger hook to speed up the process. 

    The Titania shawl 

    The Titania shawl is similar in concept but combines double crochet stitches to make v stitches. You start in the centre of the shawl and work your way out. 

    Rectangle crochet shawl | Easy beginner lace shawl

    The double crochet stitches in this shawl have been combined to make V stitch and double v stitch. I have a tutorial for each of these stitches on my Youtube channel as well as a tutorial on the basic beginner crochet stitches.

    A one skein beginner crochet shawl pattern: 

    The Disturbia shawl is perfect for crochet beginners for a number of reasons: 

    1. It requires only 1 skein of yarn. 

    2. You can practice your crochet increases. 

    3. It only uses 1 stitch throughout. 

    4. You can practice joining pieces together, whether it be seaming or a slip stitch join. 

    Easy beginner one skein shawl.

    The Disturbia shawl was designed for knitters in particular who want to try their hand at crochet and for crochet beginners who want to practice creating a triangle shawl shape. 

    Shawls can be a really simple project for a crochet beginner. Find out why shawls might be the easiest thing to crochet. Blog post explaining why a shawl is a good project for a crochet beginner.

    Beginner resources:

    Crochet stitch guide for beginners.

    Crochet for beginners: US and UK hook sizes.

    Where to put your hook in crochet.

  • Yarns to watch out for in crochet: How to stop yarn splitting.

    Yarns to watch out for in crochet: How to stop yarn splitting.

    Does your yarn split when you crochet? Can you easily pull the row out when you’ve made a mistake? Is fluff getting in your eyes? You could have chosen a bad yarn for crochet… or not. Read on to find out which yarns you should watch out for. 

    Here I’ll show you my top 5 yarns that you should watch out for if you’re a beginner and ways to stop your yarn from separating when you work with it. 

    1. Mohair or Suri Alpaca 

    While mohair and lace work perfectly for knitting, it can be a nightmare for crochet. I think this is because of the amount of handling you do with the fabric. You always have the fabric in your hand while you work the hook. It’s also difficult to see the stitches beneath all of the fuzz. 

    2. Very fine yarn e.g. cobweb or lace. 

    Cobeweb yarn in cream wool. Yarns crochet beginners shouldn't use. Yarn not recommended for beginner knitters.

    As well as the stress of chaining such a fine yarn, you can miss stitches easily. You will also find that your tension is uneven with lace yarn as you accidentally loosen your grip to focus on getting into the chains. Leave it til later and stick with it for things that ask for motifs and lace stitches rather than a solid block. 

    3. Eyelash yarn

    I get it. It’s fun. It’s on special offer in Aldi. This is great for making teddies in particular but if you can’t see the stitches, you’re doomed. Best avoided for beginners. You’ll knot yourself into so much regret. Don’t say I didn’t warn you. 

    4. Single ply or roving types. 

    The problem with this is that, if you have really tight tension, you could pull it apart or split it. It’s a pain. If you have accidentally knotted it at the wrong point or messed up a crochet stitch, it can be awful to try and get out of. Best avoided. 

    5. Dark coloured yarns 

    Can you think why I am saying black and dark yarns are best avoided if you are a beginner? I don’t think I need to explain why. 

    What yarns should I use then? 

    It’s all well and good me showing you what you shouldn’t use but here’s a list of yarns that you should use. 

    Acrylic DK 

    Now this depends purely on your preference of what you like to use and hold. Most beginners are fine using a DK acrylic yarn such as Stylecraft Special DK. It comes in every colour of the rainbow and is the top choice for blankets, scarves and other practical beginner sized projects. 

    If your acrylic cushion cover ends up on a 40 degree wash by mistake, you don’t have to experience the trauma of shrinkage or felting. It’s a good starter yarn. 

    Colourful crochet blanket using acrylic DK yarn

    Cotton DK 

    This is great if you are learning to make toys or spring/summer projects. Cotton can be quite hard on your hands as it isn’t as bouncy as acrylic and wool, so adjust your crochet hook accordingly. Because it’s not fluffy, it retains its shape well when stitched up. You can therefore see clearly where you’re supposed to be putting your hook. 

    rainbow cotton yarn

    How can I stop yarn from splitting? 

    Yarn is blamed for splitting all of the time. You can prevent it splitting by the way that you hold it. If you have the yarn in your hand you can untwist it unknowingly. It can also depend on which end of the ball you are using. It’s true that some yarns are just splittier than others and this is because of how it is spun. We can’t help that if that’s the case but I’ll show you how to stop it from splitting here. 

    It may not always be the fault of the yarn 

    I once had a crochet tester pull out of the test because I’d chosen a “cheap, splitty yarn” for the design. It’s quite a common misconception to think it is always the yarn that is at fault. Even the most luxurious feeling hand dyed yarns can separate and split. 

    Think about how yarns are spun. We have several strands (ply) of fibre that are twisted together over and over again to make a thicker, stronger yarn. They are twisted in one direction. If the yarn has been spun and twisted in a clockwise direction and you grab the end of it and start untwisting it as you work, what do you expect to happen? 

    Look at this yarn here. One end is from the inside of the ball and the other is from the outside of the ball. The one that came from the inside of the ball (right) is significantly looser than the one that came from outside of the ball. If I was to then start working with it as it is, it will be likely to separate and I’ll split it with my hook. The yarn on the right is already on its way to being separated and therefore difficult to work with. 

    Both strands of this yarn are in the S twist direction (The opposite is the Z twist). I will still be working with this yarn but I have to be careful that I don’t untwist the S twist. If you are lucky enough to work with a Z twist yarn, you will most likely add twist when you crochet. 

    S twist yarn
    Z twist and S twist yarn. Why does your yarn split.

    You can’t do anything about the direction of the twist unless you are also a spinner. I do not expect you to walk into a yarn shop and ask “where are the Z twist yarns? I only like those” I just want you to be aware that the direction of the ply will affect each project. Look out for it and be conscious of how you are working the yarn. 

    How can I avoid untwisting? 

    Because you are handling the yarn a lot as you work, you need to pay attention to your hand movements. All of us work the yarn in slightly different ways but some of us are guilty of accidentally twisting it in an anticlockwise direction.

    Knitters will say it is because of how you are throwing or wrapping the yarn but in crochet we have an extra problem: no unified crochet hold. Some people barely touch the working yarn when they crochet while others have it held between forefinger and thumb. Other factors include the hand we use and how active our hand movements are. The more you touch it, the more it will twist or untwist. 

    This is what I mean by ‘untwisting’. The yarn will separate and untwist. What you have to do to avoid this is to pay attention to how you work with the yarn. which end of the hank or ball did you grab the yarn from? What kind of yarn is it? Loose or tight? 

    When winding your own yarn out of a hank, pay attention to which end seems to be looser. Wind it in a way that the tighter end is the end you work with. 

    When opening a new ball of yarn, inspect the end that comes out of the centre and the end that is on the outside of the ball. Choose the tighter one. 

    You can also move your fingertips in a way that adds twist to the yarn as you work. 

    This is what we are aiming for. We need to hold the yarn in a way that compliments the direction in which it is twisting. Working against it won’t help. 

    I’ve tried this but it still doesn’t work 

    If you seem to split yarn no matter what you do, try looking out for yarns that specifically say “high twist” in their descriptions. This way, they will at least be harder for you to untwist. 

    There will always be yarns that we don’t like and won’t work for us. I’m not saying that there are no “cheap, splitty” yarns out there but we can at least try to identify if we are the problem first. 

    I hope this helps! 

    Hanna 

     See also: 

    How to join granny squares

    How to block granny squares

    Crochet stitch guide for beginners

  • The Gift List: The best storage bags for knitting and crochet.

    The Gift List: The best storage bags for knitting and crochet.

    If you’ve ever asked yourself, ‘What to get a crocheter for Christmas?’ or ‘What can I buy as a gift for a knitter?’ the answer could well be a great knitting or crochet bag! Read on to find out how a bag is going to be a wonderful gift for a knitter or crocheter.

    These knitting and crochet bags are the perfect gift for a friend or family member who loves to knit and crochet. Here are a hand-selected assortment of beautiful, functional and sturdy knitting and crochet bags. If there’s someone in your life who loves nothing more than sitting down with their knitting or their crochet, a sturdy, attractive bag to store and carry all of their tools and yarn is the perfect gift.

    Below are 5 amazing bags that are pretty, practical and perfect for the person who seems to have everything in the craft department!

    This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you do decide to purchase through any of the links, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    Bags for every budget: These are cute, practical and budget-friendly bags you can give as a gift to a knitter or a crocheter.

    The Kalidi Yarn Storage Knitting Bag. £16.99 ($22.82).

    This gorgeous little bag is one of the bestsellers on Amazon this season. It makes an excellent gift for a knitter or a crocheter and I’ll run you through the key information for this one:

    The kaalidi knitting and crochet storage bag. This one has pola dots and is grey. Gifts for knitters. Gifts to give to someone who crochets.

    Why the Kalidi knitting and crochet storage bag makes an excellent gift for a knitter or a crocheter:

    • Great storage capacity. This little beauty can store up to 20 50g (1.25oz) balls of yarn, or 10 100g (3.5oz) balls of yarn. That’s a lot of yarn! You could take your latest granny square project out and about with you thanks to this roomy bag.
    • It has 4 eyelets in the top of the bag to help you keep working yarns from tangling. This is a generous amount of output holes for a yarn bag.
    • Easy storage. The main compartment has one large internal pocket and two smaller mesh projects. This is really handy for your accessories and of course, your crochet hooks and knitting needles.
    • Straps. This has a simple, short carry handle. It’s useful for storing yarn at home as well as for travelling.
    • Design. It comes in a range of designs and is water resistant and sturdy. That’s just what you need for a storage bag that’s going to get a lot of use.
    • Size. This bag is 36cm long 19cm wide and 19cm high.

    if you’d like to learn more about the Kalidi yarn storage bag, you can do so here.

    The Curmio yarn storage bag for knitting and crochet. £26.99 ($36).

    This image is to help people decide what Knitting bag to buy. CURMIO Yarn Storage Bag, Knitting Tote Bag for Crochet Hooks, Knitting Project and Accessories, Ideal for Crochet Beginners and Knitting Lovers, Bag Only, Grey

    The Curmio yarn storage bag stores much more than yarn: you can get your needles and other accessories in there too. Here’s a summary of what you’re getting:

    • Can fit a range of crochet hooks and knitting needles. It has zipped pockets with holders for several different knitting and crochet supplies as well as a PVC pouch for the smaller accessories that you don’t want to lose. Safely store stitch markers, measuring tapes, needles stoppers and scissors. The knitting needles it holds can be up to 35cm (14in) long.
    • It has three output holes, allowing you to store yarn with the ends safely away. This is so handy for travelling with working yarns as they won’t get tangled up.
    • It’s a smart, solid design made from strong, durable nylon fabric. It’s water-resistant, too, making it excellent for travel and storage on the go.
    • It has plenty of compartments to keep all your hooks, needles, yarns and even your current project safely stored.
    • It is 42cm x 24.6cm x 22.9cm, making it a practical size for your storage needs.
    • It also comes in a wide range of patterns and colours.
    CURMIO Yarn Storage Bag, Knitting Tote Bag for Crochet Hooks, Knitting Project and Accessories, Ideal for Crochet Beginners and Knitting Lovers, Bag Only,Purple. Woman  is holding the bag.

    If the Curmio knitting and crochet storage bag is the perfect gift for the crafter in your life, you can learn more about it here.

    Next up:

    Yarwo knitting bag. Yarn storage organiser. £47.99 ($64.49)

    The Yarwo knitting bag is a great choice as it comes with so many compartments.

    Much like the Curmio yarn storage bag, this one has clever side pockets with zips to secure knitting needles and crochet hooks. It’s more expensive than the previous ones, but it does offer to carry a lot more kit. Here’s a run-down of what’s on offer:

    • 2 zipper pockets in front for knitting needles(up to 14”/35.5cm), 1 back pocket with magic tape for knitting books or personal items. 2 side pockets with 15 elastic loops and 10 open pockets for crochet hooks, circular needles and other knitting supplies, such as scissors, ruler, etc. That’s plenty of pockets!
    • It has 6 openings in the top to help you store your yarn without tangling it. It also has a see-through second layer so that when you lift the zipped lid, you can see if what you’re looking for is there (without rummaging).
    • It’s a good size. L39 x W25 x H30cm. It also has padding so it stands up on its own when it’s empty.
    • As well as side straps, it has a shoulder strap.
    • Made of sturdy nylon and is water resistant.
    • The Yarwo comes ina range of colours and designs, too.

    Overall, the Yarwo has what the other bags have… and then some more! This bag is for the experienced, well-stashed crafter. Get yours here.

    Premium yarn storage and project bags for knitters and crocheters:

    Frida’s Wollhaus muud Evita XL Handmade leather Box for storing knitting and crochet supplies and yarns. Muud. £103.53 ($139)

    Luxury gifts for knitters. Yarn storage boxes for crocheters and knitters. Presents to buy for a knitter. Gifts for crocheters. Things to buy for someone who crochets. image shows the muud crochet and knittinhg storage box.

    This is more of a box than a bag, but bear with me. This is the luxury project box that you give to the knitter and crocheter in your life.

    Muud are known for their luxury handmade storage solutions for knitters, crocheters and on-the-go crafters. This one is 100% genuine leather and comes in two colours: whiskey and black. Here’s why this bag is wonderful:

    • Muud, based in Denmark, proudly make their storage bags and boxes for the ‘quality-conscious artisan.’
    • Handmade from genuine leather.
    • Diameter 22 cm with lid, height 22 cm
    • Available in two colours: whisky and black
    • Extra space for yarn, projects etc. Opens up to be wider than the box (pictured).
    • Closes with lid and leather strap
    • 1 smaller compartment with zip in the top compartment.

    As you can see in the image above, the box has been modelled with embroidery threads but you can also store crochet hooks. DPNs, circular knitting needles, patterns and other accessories. If you’d like to get one, you can do so here.

    Frida’s Wollhaus muud Lofoten XL Handmade Leather Bag for Knitting and Crochet Objects. Black. £138 ($185)

    This premium leather bag is famous for not looking anything like a knitting bag. On the outside, it’s a stylish oversized leather tote. On the inside, it can store yarn, needles, accessories and unfinished projects.

    A stylish knitting bag. Bags for knitters and crocheters that aren't for grannies. Nice storage bags for knitters. Gifts for knitters. Gifts to give to someone who crochets. Muud premium black leather project bag for yarn and tools.

    Here’s what you get:

    • 100% genuine leather
    • Width 52 cm, width at the bottom 15 cm, height 42 cm
    • Available in two colours: whisky and black
    • Adjustable and removable shoulder strap, 130 cm
    • Extra storage space
    • One inner pocket with zip
    • One outer pocket with zip

    It’s the most stylish knitting bag on the market right now, and you can take it with you anywhere. If the crocheter or knitter you have in mind would love a storage bag that doubles as a practical, premium handbag, you can get this one here.

    Luxury gifts for knitters. What to buy for a knitter who has everything. Lovely gifts to give to crocheters. Crochet gifts for someone who loves yarn. Things to buy for your crafty friend. Muud yarn bag. Crochet and knitting gifts. Things to buy for a friend who knits.
  • Crochet Myths

    Crochet Myths

    Here I will debunk several crochet myths and misunderstandings that I have encountered on social media. 

    1. Crochet is just like knitting but with one needle. 

    Lies. It is a completely different craft. Firstly, crochet requires a hook, not a needle. The hook is used to pull loops through chains. Do not let anyone mansplain crochet to you. It’s a hook!

    2. You can’t crochet if you’re left handed. 

    False. You can crochet if you’re left handed. Crochet is worked right to left if you are right handed and left to right if you are left handed. I’ve taught left handed crocheters as well as a right handed. If you’re working in the round, there’s no wrong side most of the time so work anti clockwise and enjoy yourself. 

    3. Crochet is hard to make garments with because it creates really dense stitches. 

    Not true. Take a look at my blog post How to create crochet fabric that drapes and you’ll see that it is not dense. If you use chunky yarn and a small hook, it will be dense. You’d get the same thickness problem with small needles and a thicker yarn, so use common sense.

    4. Crochet is an old lady hobby.

    While I do not doubt that older ladies may like to crochet, this isn’t exclusive to that demographic. Crochet is enjoyed by people of all ages. The more you believe that kind of mythical trope, the more likely your work colleague who was thinking of taking it up to help with their stress and anxiety is not going to bother. Crochet is for everyone.  Now, please excuse me while I scroll through my Instagram feed and like all of the amazing crochet bikinis and dresses that the gen z makers are wearing in their photos. 

    I was really saddened to learn that my aunts didn’t ever share their crochet knowledge with me because they worried “it’s an old lady thing”. I was sad because they felt they had to hide it. There are still people out there who you might come across at work, at the park or in coffee shops who wink as though you’re in some kind of secret club that isn’t allowed to take centre stage. In the bin with that!

    5. Crochet can be machine made 

    Not true. Crochet can only be done by hand. Machinery would help justify the criminally low wages that the crocheters who make your high street clothing are paid but it doesn’t exist. Those people sit there all day and make a top that might end up in landfill a few months later. Knitwear can be made using a machine but crochet cannot. 

    People will try and tell you that crochet machines exist but you’re going to go on Google and search for a ‘crochet machine’ and find several results for rocking horse poo first. I’ll wait… 

    6. Crochet is tacky. 

    This is based on opinion. While some crochet is tacky I’m not going to piss on somebody else’s chips. What might not appeal to me will appeal to someone else. Nicole Scherzinger was doing a little dance on Tiktok wearing a bikini and cute granny square skirt. I thought it was quite nice but there were plenty of comments saying “My Nan has this on her couch”. I can only think that those ladies were jealous of either Nicole or the crochet… or both. 

    We have to keep it real here. Not all crochet is appealing to everybody. It is purely subjective. Don’t force people to agree with you based on your crochet ideals. Just be happy for the tacky and be thankful that it’s not in your living room, ok? 

    7. Crochet is harder than knitting. 

    This is another common misconception about crochet. It is not harder it’s different.  Knitters will approach crochet and forget that it takes weeks, months or years to get good at it. If you were a level 7 in Piano, would you start learning guitar and expect to enter at a grade 6? Hopefully not. It’s the same principle in crochet. Although they both work with identical yarns, knitting and crochet are cousins, not twins. 

    I always think to myself ‘if young Irish girls could learn it using only a basic steel 1.5mm hook and thread, how hard can it be?’ I don’t know how they could do that as I can barely see a 2mm but they did, somehow. There’s a knack and you have to find it. Some of you may have the knack for Irish crochet and others, like me, will not. That’s ok. Try another form of crochet instead. If you’re of Irish descent, like me, you may have wanted to honour your fore mothers (or great grandmother in my case) and try and keep the tradition going but sometimes it’s not possible. 

    Crochet can be hard but that’s not always the crochet’s fault. Try changing up your hooks, expectations, yarns, patterns and skill set. Maybe you need to stick with pot holders for a while longer. That’s ok. These things take time. 

    You have to be patient with yourself. You’re learning a new skill. You went to school for years to learn to read and write to a good standard, didn’t you? Why should crochet be any different? 

    Can you think of any other crochet myths? What have you come across?

    Further reading:

    A Brief History Of Crochet

    Crochet Stitch Guide For Beginners

    Crochet Hook Conversion Chart

  • A brief history of crochet

    A brief history of crochet

    Do you ever wonder where crochet comes from? Here’s a brief history of crochet. 

    Crochet is everywhere right now if you open social media but do you ever wonder where crochet comes from?

    If you’re a participant in this magnificent craft or know someone who is, you may have once wondered where crochet comes from. Here’s a brief history of crochet.

    If you know nothing about crochet, let me clarify a few things:

    • It wasn’t invented by Sh**n, that’s for sure.
    • You may be able to buy a crochet tank for £15 from the high street but if you knew what work goes into it, you might think twice. 
    • Crochet is an art form. One person has done that with one hook. It could have taken them hours, weeks or months to make. 
    • Crochet cannot be made by machine. It is just not possible to crochet using machinery. There are knitting machines but not crochet machines. It can only be done by hand. How many other things can you think of that can’t be made by a machine? 

    Where does crochet come from? 

    Crochet is thought to come from Asia originally.

    Crochet is thought to have originated in the Middle East, China and South America a very long time ago. It is theorised that it was pre-1700s but the exact dates are unknown (possibly because it was the work of lower class women? Not worth documenting, right? Thanks Patriarchy). It bears a close relation to the ancient art of Chinese embroidery. I’ll show you how this links up to what crochet looked like when it reached Europe. 

    Ancient Chinese embroidery is linked to modern crochet

    This piece is taken from the Tang Dynasty (618-906). It’s an embroidered shirt that once belonged to someone of the upper classes. Embroidered garments were worn according to wealth and the stitches used were a combination of chain stitches and straight stitches. It’s the chain stitches that are of interest here, as they resemble modern crochet chains. 

    Like with one needle, we work with one hook for crochet. We don’t thread anything through the hook but we do make chains and build on what has previously been laid out. Think of the granny square: we start in the centre after making chains and we build on every stitch to create more stitches. They have to connect with chains. 

    Crochet in European history.

    When crochet came to Europe in the 1700s, the main reason was lace. Lace was a luxury item. It was expensive, sought after and worn by the elites of European nations. Think cuffs, veils, collars, neckerchiefs and gowns made of delicate silks and fine cotton. 

    19th century lace shawl

    Image shows a mid-1800s shawl made with Blonde bobbin lace, France (Collection of Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles, Berkeley, CA) 

    There were two types of lace used in Europe: Needle lace and bobbin lace. Both were a way of creating see through embroidery-like fabric. 

    Lace, a decorative openwork web, was first developed in Europe during the sixteenth century. Two distinct types of lace making—needle lace and bobbin lace—began simultaneously. Needle lace is made with a single needle and thread, while bobbin lace entails the plaiting of many threads. Lace thread was typically made from linen, and later silk or metallic gold threads, followed by cotton in the nineteenth century. 

    Lace: A Sumptuous History 1600s–1900s

    Lace was so popular that in some European courts, the wearing and importing of lace from particular countries was banned. It was heavily sought after and inevitably smuggled. As lace making was painstakingly time consuming and expensive, tatting and crochet were born in the 1800s.

    This was a way of making lace-like items in a quicker, more cost effective way. Working class girls could take it up as a way of earning a living. It was a domestic skill rather than industrial and it would benefit women most. Throughout 18th century Europe, women were crocheting behind closed doors as a way of boosting their household income. It was one of the only jobs a woman could do in a time before equal rights and flexible working. As it was difficult to get a job if you had to care for several small children, a household and a husband, lace was worth investigating. 

    Crochet in the 1800s

    Crochet could not have come to Europe at a better time. It was during Ireland’s potato famine that it particularly brought benefits to Irish girls and women. They could earn money by making beautiful motifs, shawls, tablecloths and much more. 

    Irish crochet

    Irish crochet basically mimics lace. It is constructed from a main motif that is repeated several times (in this case, a flower) and is joined by mesh stitches. This is all done with a small, steel crochet hook and crochet thread. Isn’t it amazing? There’s no crochet quite like it. If you laid this on to some plain fabric, it would resemble embroidery. 

    In the book Masterpieces of Irish Crochet Lace Mary Carolyn Waldrep writes: 

    The delicate three dimensional flowers, leaves and sprays that characterise Irish crochet are considered by many to be the finest example of that crocheter’s art. This beautiful craft was originally developed mid-19th century Ireland as a method of imitating expensive Venetian point laces. Within a few years it was being taught in almost every convent in the country and by the 1880’s there were at least 12,000 women in Cork and its surrounding area alone engaged in making crochet lace.

    Irish crochet lace enjoyed fame into the late 19th century until competition from machine made lace pushed it to one side. It did not die off though! It is still being enjoyed to this day. 

    Modern crochet

    As lace was taking a back seat into the 20th century, crochet developed more and more. Patterns that had been shared in women’s periodicals were still being shared well into the 20s and 30s and crochet enjoyed significant prominence in the 60s and 70s. The threads got thicker and as it was a fast activity, trends could be kept up with. Here’s a timeline of iconic crochet garments from the 1930’s to the 1980’s. 

    1930’s 

    Vintage crochet dress pattern from 1930

    1940’s 

    1940s classic crochet jacket design

    1950’s

    1950s crochet evening dress. A history of crochet

    1960’s 

    Crochet designs from the 20th century

    1970’s 

    Openwork cardigan pattern

     1980’s 

    1980s jumper pattern

    Think about it: some of the most stylish garments that you could get your hands on could be made by you.

    Crochet in 20th century history.

    In the 20th century, fabrics and yarns were significantly cheaper than buying ready made garments on the high street. Even with the boom of cheaper synthetic clothing and textiles in the 1960’s, you could save money by making your own clothing. 

    Crochet in the modern world.

    We live in a different world today but with a bit of encouragement (and the existential crisis we face with pollution and planet destruction thanks to our titanic internet fast fashion brands), slow fashion and DIY wardrobes are making a comeback. Did you notice that there’s not a granny square or toilet roll cover in sight here? Yes, me too. 

    Contemporary crochet

    I won’t share 90’s to now because I think over the last 30 years we have been revisiting, redesigning and embracing the retro. In the 90s, some cardigans were still very much all about the bat wing or man-sized fit to billow or hang off the female form (think Princess Diana). In the late 90s and early 00s it was very much fitted and sometimes barely there (Britney had a knack for sweet girl-next door wearing hardly anything). I love that from the 2010’s to the 2020’s you can have any style of crochet that you like. We really celebrate the differences in taste, body shape, body size and colour preferences. It’s a good time to crochet!

    The 60s and 70s were very much documented as the “crochet boom” of the 20th century but I think we are in a boom right now. It’s not just about granny squares or imitating lace; crochet has evolved. 

    I hope you enjoyed this little tour of crochet. I certainly did.

    Hanna Gough is a knitwear and crochet designer. In the image she is wearing rhe Jewel hat crochet pattern.

    Hanna Gough is a crochet and knitwear designer from Liverpool, UK. She published knitting and crochet patterns on her blog as well as tutorials and blog articles on knitting, crochet, hobbies and crafts.

    If you’d like to stay up to date with the latest news, blog posts and offers,, subscribe to Hanna’s newsletter here.

    Now, where did I put my hook? 

    Further Reading: 

    How To Get Started With Crochet

    Crochet stitch guide for beginners

    Why you should try the granny square

    A Short History of Chinese Embroidery 

  • The Breeze Crochet Cardigan. Simple V stitch crochet cardigan in worsted weight yarn.

    The Breeze Crochet Cardigan. Simple V stitch crochet cardigan in worsted weight yarn.

    The Breeze crochet cardigan is a v stitch cardigan with a v neck. It’s a simple design made using several crochet panels that are either joined together with a crochet hook, or seamed. The choice is yours!

    This cardigan comes in 7 sizes, so you can make it for yourself or someone else.

    The Breeze crochet cardigan 

    Yarn used: Cygnet Boho Spirit in Sapphire

    The Breeze cardigan earns its name for two reasons: the air between the v stitches creates subtle openwork allowing your skin to breathe, while the process of v stitch ensures easy crochet. 

    Thanks to the v stitch, you can spend more time crocheting with air and less time working into the chain!

    This cardigan is available in seven sizes and offers a generous, oversized fit. It is therefore perfect for lazy weekends or keeping the chill off on a spring afternoon. 

    If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF with colour coded sizing, you can get that from Ravelry here.

    The cardigan is constructed in 3 separate, flat pieces (back, front left, front right) with some armhole shaping and neck shaping at the front. The side waist panel is then created using double crochet. The back piece is then seamed with the front pieces, seamed at the shoulder and the sleeves are worked in the round. The edging and cuffs are created using double crochet. 

    Yarn used for this V stitch cardigan.

    I used Cygnet boho spirit yarn for this cardigan which is 100% premium acrylic, sleek and soft with a subtle sheen. The self striping quality of the yarn means you can have all of the colours without weaving in any ends! You can read more about the yarn here.

    The cardigan is adjustable to suit your particular preferences; e.g tall or petite sizing, with some guidance under the measurement chart on the next page. 

    As the waist panels can be widened or narrowed if need be, this really can be tailored to fit your individual body!

    Size chart for the Breeze v stitch cardigan pattern.

    Please check your own measurements before starting this pattern.

    SizeChest size Finished measurement Back V sts 
    XS80cm/32in86cm/34in 18
    S90cm/36in 96cm/38in 20
    M102cm/40in105cm/42in 22
    L112cm/44in 115cm/46in24
    XL120cm/48in 125cm/50in26
    2XL130cm/52in135cm/54in28
    3XL140cm/56in145cm/58in 30
    SizeFront V stsSide waist panelHem to armhole
    XS102 rows38cm/15in
    S102 rows 40cm/15.5in
    M112 rows 40cm/15.5in
    L124 rows 42cm/16.5in
    XL134 rows 42cm/16.5in
    2XL146 rows 42cm/16.5in 
    3XL156 rows 42cm/16.5in
    Size Full back lengthTotal sleeve length 
    XS56cm/22in52cm/20in
    S58cm/23in52cm/20in
    M58cm/23 in54cm/21in
    L62cm/24.5in54cm/21in
    XL62cm/24.5in54cm/21in
    2XL64cm/25in56cm/22in
    3XL64cm/25in 56cm/22in

    Notes on fit: 

    • This cardigan is worn with 5cm/2in positive ease, so choose your body measurement from the Chest Size column above. 
    • As this is worked flat, there is a single dc stitch at the end of every row. This adds to the width of the garment, as does the side panel. If you have made your size but think the back or front panels are too narrow, add more rows to your side waist panel.
    • If you are petite or tall, make your size according to measurements, but add 2 rows/subtract 2 rows at the waist (before armhole) and at the sleeve. Try on the cardigan to decide when is a good place to stop and work the cuff.
    • You will notice that the hem to armhole for XL-3XL have shorter measurements. This is because they have longer, lower armholes. 

    Glossary

    ApproxApproximatelyMeasurements given in approximations. 
    ChChainThe chain is the loop where you insert your crochet hook. Chains also make the first stitch of the row. Make a slipknot, yarn over and pull through the loop. This creates a chain. 
    Ch spChain spaceThe space or gap that has been created by stitches in the previous row. 
    DcDouble crochetYarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2. 
    RSRight side(s)The side of the fabric that is to be shown worn on the person, on the outside of the finished garment. 
    SkSkipSkip a stitch 
    SlSlip stitchInsert hook, yarn over hook, pull through all loops. 
    SpSpaceThe space or gap created by the row before. The spaces under the chains. 
    StStitchThe stitch e.g. double crochet, v stitch. 
    V st V stitch Make a double crochet into the chain or chain space, chain 1 and make another double crochet into the same chain or chain space. The two dc stitches create a ‘V’ shape. 

    US terms used throughout 

    If you don’t know your Us crochet terms or need a refresh, you can use my handy glossary here.

    In parts where size is not mentioned, this means that the instructions are the same for all sizes; e.g. cuff and edging. 

    Sample shown in size L 

    Gauge: 

    5 v sts and 6 rows to 10cm/4in gauge square on 5mm (H) crochet hook. 

    Materials needed: 

    • 5mm (H) crochet hook
    • 5/5/5/5/6/6/6, 2.5cm/1in buttons 
    • Tapestry needle
    • 4/4/4/5/5/6/6 balls of Cygnet Boho Spirit (worsted, 240m/262 yd per 100g/3.5oz ball.) Sample used was Sapphire. 
    • 4 removable stitch markers. 

    Back

    Ch 60/66/72/78/84/90/96 (3 ch count as 1st dc) dc in 7th ch from hook, ch 1 and dc in same ch, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1 and dc in same ch. Repeat to last 3 ch. Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn. This will now be referred to as v st. (18/20/22/24/26/28/30) V sts. 

    Row 2 and every following row: (3 ch counts as 1 dc st), make a v st into centre of every v st ch sp. Dc in last dc st. Ch 3 and turn. 

    Work row 2 until piece measures approx 38/40/40/42/42/42/42cm (15/15.5/15.5/16.5/16.5/16.5/16.5in) or

    19/20/20/21/21/21/21 rows **

    Armholes: 

    Fasten off. Cut yarn. Place removable stitch marker into 1st v st of the row.  Sk 1/1/2/2/2/3/4 v sts and reattach yarn by making a ch 4 and working a dc into next v st (counts as 1 v st). V st into every v ch sp along until last 1/1/2/2/2/3/4 v sts. Make 1 dc st and turn, leaving 1/1/2/2/2/3/4 v sts unworked. 16/18/18/20/22/22/22 v sts. 

    Work a further 8/8/8/9/9/10/10 rows of v st without shaping until armhole measures 18/18/18/20/20/22/22cm 7/7/7/8/8/8.5/8.5in.

    Continue without shaping until back measures 56/58

    58/62/62/64/64cm  22.5/23/23in/24/24/25/25 in.  Fasten off. Cut yarn. 

    Front (work 2) 

    Ch 36/36/39/42/45/48/51 (3 ch count as 1st dc). 

    Work same as back until ** 10/10/11/12/13/14/15 v sts. 

    Armhole

    Fasten off and cut yarn. Place a removable stitch marker into 1st v st of row. Sk 1/1/2/2/2/3/4 v sts and reattach yarn. Ch 3 and v st into every v ch sp along. Work a dc into last st. Ch 3 and turn. 9/9/9/10/11/11/11 v sts.

     Decrease for v neck shaping 

    1. Sk 1 v st. Make a v st into next v ch sp. V st to end, make 1 dc in last dc, ch 3 and turn. 8/8/8/9/10/10/10 v sts. 
    2. Work pattern to last v st, turn, leaving last v st unworked. 

    Repeat last 2 rows until there are 3/3/5/5/7/7/7 v sts.

    Continue without shaping until back measures 56/58

    58/62/62/64/64cm 22.5/23/23in/24/24/25/25 in Fasten off. Cut yarn. 

    Flip one of the front pieces over so that you have a left side and a right side of neck. 

    Side panels: 

    Dc in every dc and ch space along the side of the front left panel, from hem to underarm stitch marker. Ch 3, turn.

    Work 0/0/0/1/1/2/2 more rows of dc. 

    Repeat for right front panel and both sides of back panel. You should have a total of 2/2/2/4/4/6/6 dc side rows on either side of the body. 

    Free crochet cardigan pattern. Free crochet cardigan worsted yarn. Free aran yarn crochet cardigan pattern pdf. Simple crochet cardigan patttern. Worsted weight sweater pattern free. Crochet patterns for women. Modern crochet sweater patterns.

    Side panels of size L are 4 rows of dc either side. 

    Seam sides of body and shoulders

    With RS facing, join left front to back with sl st join or a tapestry needle.

    Using either sl st join with your crochet hook or with a tapestry needle, join shoulder seams. 

    Sleeves: 

    Reattach yarn and work armhole as follows: 

    At this point you will be working into the side of the dc sts or the ch sp created by a v st on its side. 

    Ch 4, dc in same ch (counts as 1st v st). V st another 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts evenly across armhole. Sl to join round. 

    Next round and every following round: 

    Ch 4, dc in same ch. V st in every v ch sp around. Sl to join. 

    Continue until sleeve measures 48/48/50/50/50/52/52cm 19/19/20/20/20/21/21in 24/24/25/25/25/26/26 v sts 

    Cuff 

    4 rows of dc in total. Try the sleeve on to see if you would prefer a longer or shorter cuff. 

    1. Sl st and ch 2, dc into top of every dc. Sl st to join round. 
    2. Sizes XS: Decrease 4 sts evenly across cuff.

     S-L: Ch 2 and dc in every other dc around.

     XL-3XL: Ch 2, *2 dc in next 2 sts, sk 1* repeat * to end. 

    1. Dc in every dc.
    2. Repeat row 3 once more. 

    Fasten off. Cut yarn. 

    Edging and button bands: 

    Starting at bottom left front, reattach yarn, ch 2 and dc in the top of every ch around (including side dcs and v sts), bottom edge, front right, collar and front left, Sl st to join with 1st dc of round. Ch 2 and dc every st around. Fasten off. 

    Place buttons at an equal distance down the right or left front button band. Sew them on. 

    Weave in ends and enjoy!

    Breeze v stitch crochet sweater. Crochet cardigan pattern free. Crochet cardigan patterns for beginners. Worsted weight crochet sweaters to make.

    Other free crochet patterns to try:

  • Patterns that combine knitting with crochet: the Jewel Hat Pattern

    Patterns that combine knitting with crochet: the Jewel Hat Pattern

    The Jewel hat falls under the categories of both knitting and crochet as it contains both techniques and it really does have the best of both worlds. You can mix crochet and knitting with the Jewel hat pattern and crochet this slouchy beanie with a crochet body and knit brim. Get the best of both worlds in one pattern. I’ll talk you through how it’s made and what skills and tools you’ll need to make it. 

    If you’d rather make the 100% crochet version of this hat, there’s a free pattern here.

    This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that if you decide to purchase any of the recommended products, I do receive a small commission at no cost to you.

    What is the Jewel hat? Why is it so special? 

    I’ve been a fan of both knitting and crochet for over a decade. I learned both at the same time and loved both for their different qualities. I had the idea to design this hat when I was looking for a quick beanie that mixed crochet and knitting in a stylish way.

    I also wanted to create something that a knitter could learn to make if they had any interest in crochet but weren’t sure where to start. I get really tired of crochet prejudice and stereotypes in the yarn world so I was determined to design something that was beautiful as well as easy to make. It’s a slouch beanie with a knit brim and a crochet body. If you’re feeling cute, you could also add a pom pom.

    This hat has introduced so many knitters to crochet! I love this design and I’m glad you enjoy it, too.

    The jewel hat is a slich beanie with a knit brim and a crochet body. It's a hat that mixes crochet and knitting.

    Here it is worked in Manos Del Uruguay Silk blend DK in child size (above). 

    Why knitting and crochet can be mixed for mega benefits.  

    Mixing knitting and crochet for this pattern is a lot of fun as you get the benefits of the stretchy knit brim with the speed of the crochet granny stitch clusters. Even though wonderful knit look methods and rib methods do exist for crochet, I don’t feel that any of them beat the K1 P1 rib. It’s really stretchy and doesn’t eat up as much yarn as crochet does. This means the hat is mostly doable with just one ball of yarn.

    I made my adult medium sample in Cynet Boho Spirit (Colourway Chic). It used less than 1 whole ball. 

    The crochet body is so quick that you could make this hat in an evening. You’re not working into stitches for the most part, just the chain space! 

    What size does the Jewel hat come in? 

    I designed the hat in 5 sizes:

    • Baby- 19 inches/48cm.
    • Child- 20 inches/51cm
    • Adult small (or tween)- 21 inches/ 53cm
    • Adult medium- 22 in/55cm
    • Adult large- 24 in/60cm

    It’s such a fun hat and makes an excellent last minute gift as it works up so quickly. When I first introduced the Jewel hat, knitters were curious as to how it worked and whether they could crochet well enough to pull it off. You absolutely can! The pattern not only has clear instructions with a glossary of terms and stitches but there are plenty of photos and even an instructional video showing you how to make it. With all of these added extras, you really can’t go wrong. 

    Worried you can’t crochet well enough to make this hat?

    You really don’t need to be a crochet expert to make this cute hat. All you need is to know how to make a chain, make a double crochet stitch (UK treble) and decrease stitches. You will also need to know what a chain space is but don’t worry, I explain all of these things in relevant blog posts as well as the youtube tutorial that shows you how to make the Jewel hat.

    I’ve made two of these hats now and have the yarn ready for a third. Very straight forward pattern. I’m not particularly great at crochet but got lovely results which have been greatly admired. Cygnet Boho Spirit DK is prefect for this pattern.

    If you’d like to get started with crochet or brush up on your crochet skills, I have a list of excellent resources here for beginners. 

    On my youtube channel, you will find the crochet playlist for absolute beginners. I cover everything from making a slipknot to working your first crochet stitches. 

    In my pattern store, I have a crochet stitch guide for beginners. This is a guide that compliments your learning when watching tutorials or reading patterns. There are the UK and US terms for all of the stitches in there as well as instructions and detailed photographs of the stitches.

    On my knit and crochet blog, I have a series of blog posts showing you what certain crochet terms or methods involve. A really useful one for the Jewel hat is “What is a chain space?” 

    Tools required to make this easy slouchy beanie. 

    • 3.75mm needles, either DPN or 80cm circular for magic loop.
    • 4.5mm crochet hook or size required for gauge. 

    Please do make sure you do a swatch as I have quite loose tension. You may need to go up a size or 2 for yours! 

    Gauge: 1×1 rib 6 sts per 1in 2.5cm

    Thank you for supporting my work. As you know, I don’t run ads on my blog posts. If you’d like to show your support by leaving a tip, you can do so at Ko fi here. Thank you for visiting my blog!

    Jewel hat tutorial on Youtube 

  • How to create crochet fabric that drapes.

    How to create crochet fabric that drapes.

    In this post, I’ll be talking about drape in crochet and how you can make a few simple tweaks to ensure your crochet fabric hangs as you want it to.

    You may have heard that crochet fabric doesn’t look as good as knit fabric. Did you know that it can? Here I will explain how to create fabric that drapes!

    If you’re a frequent knitter and you’ve dabbled with crochet, one of the main observations you may have made is the difference in drape. You may have heard knitters say that they don’t like the ‘stiff’ fabric that crochet produces, but I want to tell you that it doesn’t have to be stiff and boxy. Here I will show you how to create crochet fabric that drapes well. 

    What is drape and why does it matter in crochet?

    Drape is the way that a fabric flows or hangs. It allows it to sweep, gather or float off the body or sway in the wind. It’s gorgeous and it is absolutely what we want when it comes to shawls and garments. Think of chiffon sarongs, velvet curtains or lace shawls. How something drapes is down to a few factors of which I will explain below. 

    Semi circle crochet shawl pattern Eden cottage yarns nateby 4ply

    Example above: The Daphne shawl.

    As a rule, crochet stitches do tend to produce a thicker, denser fabric as the method of crochet requires wrapping and ‘knotting’ in the way the stitches are formed. If we were to compare crochet fabric with knit fabric according to the recommended hook and needle sizes on a ball band, the crochet will most probably be thicker, but this does not mean that crochet fabric is always stiff and dense. It is a common misconception that crochet fabric makes rubbish garments and that it is always stiff. 

    You can create drape with crochet fabric and it doesn’t just have to be with lace and openwork. 

    There are many ways that you can create looser, draping fabric with crochet that doesn’t have to result in it being completely see through and vulnerable to door handles. 

    This could be done in several ways: 

    1. The size of the crochet hook used. 
    2. The direction of the stitches e.g. vertical is less see through than horizontal. 
    3. The thickness of the yarn. 
    4. The stitch pattern. 
    5. The yarn used. Some yarns are just softer and have more drape, or a thinner feel to them. Not all 4ply and DK is the same thickness, for example. 
    6. Blocking. 

    Size matters when creating drape.

    If you use the crochet hook size recommended on the ball of yarn, I can almost guarantee that you will end up with a dense fabric. If you go up half a millimetre or a full millimetre, it will become a looser fabric. You can keep experimenting with this until you get to a hook size that creates the drape you want.

    Single crochet stitch is too dense for drape

    Horizontal vs vertical can improve your results when creating drape in crochet fabrics. 

    If you turn a crochet piece on its side, the layout of the stitches and the drop changes. This could help with drape too (depending on yarn). 

    Thickness of the yarn can affect drape 

    Using an aran or chunky yarn will cause problems if you don’t go up a hook size. If you have loose enough tension, you can get away with the recommended hook size, but if you can’t, you need to increase your hook size. Here is an example of a chunky/bulky weight yarn that has drape in a cardigan. 

    Chunky crochet cardigan pattern

    Believe it or not, you can get chunky weight yarn to drape. Creating crochet fabric that drapes with chunky yarn may seem unlikely but it is possible. Above is my Starburst crochet cardigan pattern and although it asks for chunky yarn and a 6mm hook, it has drape! It hangs off the body and the sleeves drape too. It is not a stiff jacket, it’s a cardigan. Bear in mind that although the pattern may ask for a specific size, you will know from your test square whether the finished item will drape how it is supposed to or not. Most makers will achieve the desired fabric if they go up a hook size, as my tension seems to be quite loose! You should always test your personal tension with the yarn to see if the yarn is thin or thick enough! 

    The stitch pattern used will affect the finished result. 

    The stitch pattern you use affects drape considerably. For example, double (UK treble) crochet is a longer, looser stitch than its predecessor, the single crochet stitch. 

    Single crochet (UK Double) is also the most dense stitch you can make. It is therefore brilliant for items that require structure, stiffness or an opaque, tight fabric. Here are some examples of where single crochet works wonders: 

    • amigurumi (pictured below)
    • baskets
    • bags
    • rugs 
    • hard wearing throws e.g. dog blankets 
    • Pet beds 
    • Bath mats
    • Face scrubbies 
    • Pouches and cases 
    Martia alien amigurumi crochet doll uses single crochet stitch

    It’s not just single crochet that will cause stiffness though. 

    Using any stitch can cause stiffness. All you have to do is use a crochet hook a couple of sizes smaller than the yarn recommends. It works just the same with knitting. 

    Yarns 

    We have briefly covered the yarn and the recommended sizes that come on the ball band. In my experience, the ball band isn’t always correct. This is because they are a guide rather than an absolute. That ball band does not take into account what your personal tension is. I was also saying that not all 4ply or DK yarns are the same. This is where wraps per inch (wpi) comes in handy. I will explain further in another blog post, but basically: 

    Working out WPI: 

    Wrap your yarn around a pencil or a pair of knitting needles for 3-4 inches. Using a ruler, measure how many wraps per inch. This gives you a clear idea of how thick your yarn actually is.  Although Cygnet boho spirit says it is DK, the recommended hook/needle is 4.5-5mm. If I were to work out wpi with Cygnet boho and Cygnet DK, they would be different thicknesses. 

    Blocking creates drape!

    If you are using natural fibres, blocking is invaluable for altering the drape and the feel of the finished item. It can help it to hold it’s shape and open out any stitches that are deliberately loose e.g. lace stitches. You can also block acrylic by ‘killing’ the fabric with steam or a warm iron just hovering above it, but most of the time, acrylic can drape if you just use the right hook. 

    Overall, I think experimenting with crochet and trying out crochet drape is worth the time. I don’t think knitters should shy away from crochet because the stitches are different.

  • Crochet Shawl Pattern: The Daphne Shawl.

    Crochet Shawl Pattern: The Daphne Shawl.

    This is a free pattern for the Daphne crochet shawl, a half-circle shawl with elegant drape and an optional picot edging. If you’d prefer the ad free version of this pattern, you can get the PDF on Ravelry.

    Simple half circle crochet shawl too make. Free crochet shawl patterns. Fingering weight crochet porjects. eden Cottage Yarns Nateby 4ply. Crochet shawl using mesh stitch crochet. Fishnet stitch crochet shawl.

    The Daphne shawl is a half circle shawl with a generous wingspan for wrapping up or hanging dramatically across your shoulders. Named after my daughter and my favourite author, Daphne Du Maurier, this shawl is more simple than it seems, but still beautiful and unusual. The delicate picot edging adds additional interest if worked in a contrasting colour but it is optional. 

    The pattern is written using US crochet terms throughout. 

    If you don’t know your US/UK crochet terms, there’s a handy guide here.

    Materials needed: 

    • 200g/7oz 800m/875yd of 4ply (fingering weight) yarn such as Nateby 4ply by Eden Cottage Yarns. The colourway here is Thunder on a Merino/Nylon/Stellina sock base. 
    • 20g/0.7oz; 80m/88yds of 4ply (fingering weight yarn for the contrast trim. This shawl uses a 20g mini skein from the RiverKnits indigo gradient set of Bfl minis.
    • 3.75mm hook. (US F/5)

    Gauge: 16dcs across 16 rows in dc on a 4in (10cm) tension square using a 3.75mm (US F/5) hook. 

    Glossary: 

    CcContrast colour
    Ch Chain 
    Ch sp The space in the row below created by previous chains
    Dc US Double crochet
    McMain colour
    SlSlip stitch 
    St(s)Stitch(es)

    Shawl measures: 

    165cm (64”) long and 68cm (27”) deep

    All instructions are given in US crochet terms. 

    Instructions: 

    Yoke: ch 3 will count as first dc of each row starting at row 2

     To create the half circle, we will increase by 7 sts every row. 

    Row 1: With mc, ch 10. Turn

    Row 2: 1 dc into 4th ch from hook. 1dc in every st to end. Ch 3 (7 dc)

    Row 3: Dc in top of last dc *2dc in every st across*. Ch 3 and turn.(14 dc)

    Row 4: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next st, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last st. Ch 3 and turn. (21dc)

    Row 5:Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn (28dc)

    Row 6:Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 3 sts. Ch 3 and turn (35dc)

    Row 7: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 4 sts. Ch 3 and turn (42dc)

    Row 8: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 5 sts. Ch 3 and turn (49dc)

    Row 9: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 6 sts. Ch 3 and turn (56dc)

    Row 10: Dc in top of last dc.*1 dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1 dc in last 7 sts. Ch 3 and turn (63dc)

    Row 11: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1dc in last 8 sts. Ch 3 and turn (70dc)

    Row 12: Dc in top of last dc. *1 dc in next 9 sts, 2dc in next st*. Repeat* ending with 1dc in last 9 sts. Ch 3 and turn (77dc)

    Panel 1 

    Row 1: Dc in top of last dc. *Ch 2, sk 2 and dc in next st*. Repeat * to end 2dc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn. 

    Row 2: Dc in top of last dc. Ch 2 and dc in next ch sp. Repeat to last ch sp. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.  

    Row 3: 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch sp] repeat [ ] to last st. 2dc in last st. Ch 3, turn. 

    Row 4 & 5: 2dc in 1st dc, dc every dc to last dc. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.

    Row 6: 2dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn. 

    Panel 2: 

    Row 1: Dc in top of last dc. *Ch 2, sk 2 and dc in next st*. Repeat * to end 2dc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn. 

    Row 2:Dc in top of last dc. Dc again in same st. Ch 2 and dc in next ch sp. Repeat to last ch sp. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.  

    Row 3 and 4: As row 2. 

    Row 5: 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch sp] repeat [ ] to last st. 2dc in last st. Ch 3, turn. 

    Row 6-7: 2dc in 1st dc, dc every dc to last dc. 2dc in lats ch. Ch 3 and turn.

    Row 8: 2dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.

    Panel 3:

    Row 1:  Dc in top of last dc. *Ch 2, sk 2 and dc in next st*. Repeat * to end 2dc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn. 

    Row 2: Dc in top of last dc. Dc again in same ch. Ch 2 and dc in next ch sp. Repeat to last ch sp. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.  

    Row 3 and 4: As row 2. 

    Row 5: 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch sp] repeat [ ] to last st. 2dc in last st. Ch 3, turn. 

    Row 6-7: 2dc in 1st dc, dc every dc to last dc. 2dc in lats dc. Ch 3 and turn.

    Row 8: 2dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.

    Panel 4: 

    Row 1:  Dc in top of last dc. *Ch 2, sk 2 and dc in next st*. Repeat * to end 2dc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn.  

    Row 2: Dc in top of last dc Dc again in same ch. Ch 2 and dc in next ch sp. Repeat to last ch sp. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.  

    Row 3 and 4: As row 2. 

    Row 5: 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch sp] repeat [ ] to last st. 2dc in last st. Ch 3, turn. 

    Row 6-7: 2dc in 1st dc, dc every ch to last dc. 2dc in last ch. Ch 3 and turn.

    Row 8: 2dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, [2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.

    Panel 5: 

    Row 1:  Dc in top of last dc. *Ch 2, sk 2 and dc in next st*. Repeat * to end. 2dc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn.  

    Row 2: Dc in top of last dc. Dc again in same ch. Ch 2 and dc in next ch sp. Repeat to last ch sp. 2dc in last dc. Ch 3 and turn.  

    Row 3 and 4: As row 2. 

    Row 5: 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next ch sp] repeat [ ] to last st. 2dc in last st. Ch 3, turn. Fasten off. 

    Edging (optional) 

    Attach cc yarn. Sl into first dc st of shawl edge. Ch2, dc into same st, ch 2 and sl into same st again.. [Sl next 2 dc sts, ch 2, make a dc, ch 2 and sl into same st]. Repeat [ ] to end. Fasten off. 

    Block to measurements and weave in ends. 

    Half circle crochet lace shawl pattern free., Simple shawls to crochet free patterns. Free shawl patterns for crochet. Mesh stitch crochet.
    Easy crochet shawl patterns to make. Crochet shawl pattern pdf free. Lace shawls to crochetl. Crochet half circle wrap.
  • There’s more to crochet than granny squares but it’s a good place to start

    There’s more to crochet than granny squares but it’s a good place to start

    It’s a common misconception that crafters make to think that crochet is only about granny squares and anything that vaguely resembles a granny square. That’s not true. There is so much more to crochet than granny squares but it is a good place to start and I will tell you why in this post. 

    What else can I crochet? 

    First, we should talk about what other options there are for crocheters who don’t want to have a go at crochet squares. There are many things you can crochet without having to make anything square. Using any of the four basic crochet stitches, you can create garments, bags, blankets, toys, home decor and much much more. 

    All crochet stitch patterns are made of one of the following stitches: 

    • Single crochet (UK treble) 
    • Half double crochet (UK half treble) 
    • Double crochet (UK treble) 

    Every stitch following these stitches is just a variant or a ‘build’ on the basics. To make a triple stitch (UK triple treble) you make a double crochet twice. To make a shell or fan stitch, you need to make 5 double crochet stitches into the same chain. To make a v stitch, you make two double crochet stitches into the same chain, with one chain separating them to create the v shape. 

    If you do want to start with the granny square, that’s fantastic! You can learn a few things from this clever shape: 

    1. You can learn how to build in rounds. 
    2. Learn to change colours. 
    3. Learn to make corner spaces. 
    4. Learn how a chain space works. 
    5. Keep them small or make something massive! 

    As you can see, you can learn a lot from that humble square. There’s something pretty and comforting about a granny square throw. This one is available as a free pattern here.

    The humble granny square is a great place to start and here are some further posts to help you get going: 

    Free Granny Square Patterns to try:

    Kits and patterns that build on the granny square:

    These kits and patterns contain affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase, I do receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    Sirdar Stories Crochet Metro Top

    Sirdar Stories: Poetic Pastels Our Metro Square Top puts the fashionable crochet granny square front and centre. If you haven’t tried a granny square to wear yet, this is an easy crochet pattern to get you started. As well as your granny square, you’ll crochet panels of double crochet and use gradual shaping to create the flattering deep u-shaped neckline, tapered shoulders and neat fit that will make this top a summer staple. Great for beginners!

    granny square tank top pattern Things to make with granny squares.

    Sirdar Stories DK Urban Hues Cardigan Crochet Pattern

    Crochet some pretty pastel granny squares, add a flattering open neckline and wide airy sleeves to make your summer essential Urban Hues Cardigan. Perfect pattern for intermediate. Use panels of granny stripes to get a neater fit and give your new favourite crop cardigan a crisp finish with a double crochet trim.

    Crochet granny square tops to make. Free crochet granny square patterns