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  • Best Granny Square Yarn and Kits out there in the UK right now.

    Best Granny Square Yarn and Kits out there in the UK right now.

    Here’s a round up of the best granny square yarn and granny square kits out there right now from UK retailers. These retailers do also provide international delivery, so do have a look if you’re reading this from somewhere else in the world!

    I’m rounding up some of my favourite yarns for granny squares as well as blankets.

    This article contains affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase from the links I have provided, I do earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    First up: Granny square yarn? Is that a thing?

    All yarn can be granny square yarn, it’s true. However, there is yarn out there more specifically tailored to your crochet needs.

    Taken quite literally, there is now a range of self-patterning yarns out there that can make the granny square colour changes so you don’t have to. Let’s have a look at them:

    Red Heart Granny Square Yarn

    Here is a yarn that was designed just for granny squares. It is an interesting concept, but tension-allowing, you can get some granny squares out of this.

    This image perfectly illustrates why this yarn is worth a punt. You don’t have the messy ends. However, you would have to match the tension exactly to get the same accurate colour change!

    This yarn is available in a range of colours. This one is called Hyper Violet. It comes in a range of colours meaning no matter your preferred shades, there will be a granny square palette for you.

    Key things about this granny square yarn:

    • It comes in a 250g ball.
    • It is a worsted weight/aran weight yarn, so will make a chunky granny square.
    • It’s made by Red Heart Yarns, who are a US brand.
    • This particular one that I’ve shared comes as a pack of 3, and it’s quite pricey compared to other yarns on the market.

    Hanna’s verdict: don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it, but I like the old fashioned method of joining new colours.

    Classic Granny Square Yarn Favourites

    Stylecraft special DK.

    You can get this in just about every colour there is in the world. It’s a long time favourite for crochet as well as knitting. It’s an affordable, reliable yarn and it’s another 100% acrylic yarn. You may have to sew in or join the ends if you change colours, but you get so much more granny square out of each 100g ball.

    Woolbox currently have Stylecraft Special DK in every colour under the sun and as well as this yarn, they also have several discounts, including ones you can claim with loyalty points.

    Key things about this yarn:

    Fibre Content100% Acrylic
    Washing Instructions40 Wash
    BrandStylecraft
    Size4mm Needles
    Metres Per Ball295m
    Tension22 stitches x 30 rows to 10cm square
    Ball Weight100g
    Yarn WeightDouble Knit

    Hanna’s verdict: The sky is the limit with this colour palette. I love it.

    Stylecraft Special Aran

    If you like your granny squares to work up quicker, you can also get Stylecraft Special in Aran. The colour palette for their aran range isn’t as vast as the DK range, but you can get every colour (just not a range of shades for each colour!)

    This is a perfect granny square yarn for fuller-bodied blankets and throws. I’ve recommended acrylic here because of its machine washable qualities. If you were making a baby blanket for example, you can easily bung this in the machine and not end up shrinking it. It is therefore excellent for blankets that will end up in the hands of exhausted parents! It’s also excellent for picnic blankets and pet throws.

    Key things about this yarn:

    Fibre Content100% Acrylic
    Washing InstructionsMachine Wash 30, Cool Tumble Dry
    BrandStylecraft
    Metres Per Ball196m
    Tension18 st x 24 rows
    Hook/Needle size 5mm

    Hanna’s verdict: This yarn is just as soft and durable as its DK cousin. I love that it’s a little bit thicker, helping me make more granny squares in front of the telly!

    Paintbox Yarn ‘Simply’ DK, Aran or Chunky

    This is Lovecrafts’ own brand yarn and it is a worthy rival to Stylecraft special for how durable, washable and soft it is. It is also a 100% premium acrylic yarn and makes vibrant, solid granny squares for throws, cushions and more.

    See below for blanket patterns featuring Paintbox Simply yarns. This is an excellent granny square yarn in an equally vibrant palette and huge range of colours.

    More Granny Square inspiration:

    Granny Square Crochet Kits To Inspire You.

    Paintbox Yarns Amour Afghan Blanket Kit.

    You can get the pattern and yarn for this blanket in the warm Passion Rouge or the cool Romance Blue. This kit contains absolutely all the yarn you’d need for this granny square blanket.

    Paintbox Yarns Casa Kahlo Blanket Kit

    Crochet kit for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky Casa Kahlo Blanket. Bursting with folk-inspired granny patterns, Katie Jones’ Casa Kahlo Blanket is a rainbow of colour encased in blues. Granny octagons and hexagons full of bobbles, hearts, clusters and overlay flowers are brought together with coloured seaming and this heavenly blanket of colour is the perfect antidote to low spirits and chilly afternoons.

    I realise that this is not technically a granny square throw but if you know how to make a granny square, you can crochet this amazing blanket!

    The Best Granny Square yarns to crochet with. Uk yarns or granny square crochet. Which yarn to buy to crochet blankets.
  • How to make pom poms. Making pom poms and choosing the best pom pom maker.

    How to make pom poms. Making pom poms and choosing the best pom pom maker.

    Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.

    In this post I’m going to show you how I make perfectly round, full pom poms for hats and other craft projects. Pom poms can be notorious for falling apart or falling off after a few wears but I’m going to show you how I make them tightly, securely and in a way that ensures they’re full and easy to attach. 

    I’ll also show you the tools I recommend for making your own pom poms with a standard pom pom maker or a novelty style pom pom maker.

    First, let’s talk about what you will need and why. 

    Do I need a good pom pom maker? 

    This is entirely subjective as I believe the technique is more important than the kit you use but saying that, using a great pom pom maker will help. I’m using a Knitpro pom pom maker for this tutorial. You can use two pieces of card if you would prefer but this method I have used here is the best way for me. I’ve made several pom poms over the years and I keep coming back to the pom pom maker because: 

    1. It’s accessible. 

    2. I don’t need to find new cardboard each time I want a pom pom. 

    3. It’s ready to use every time you need it. 

    Here’s my favourite pom pom maker, the Knitpro (known as knitters pride in the US) maker. Click here to shop for the pom pom makers that I used. 

    Knitpro pom pom maker. Make pompoms easily

    Pom poms are always shown as very fluffy, poofy additions to handmade hats. I’m going to show you how to make the best pom pom you can. 

    Here’s what you actually need to make a great pom pom: 

    1. A pom pom maker. You can use any maker (I’ve recommended some in this guide). Just choose something that you find easy to use. 

    2. Sharp, sharp scissors. The best scissors for this job are fabric scissors. I used Fiskars scissors which can be found here

    3. A darning needle. 

    4. At least 25g of good quality yarn. 

    Why is yarn important?

    How the yarn has been plied  (how many strands were twisted to make the yarn) will matter when it comes to making pom poms. For example, a 2ply yarn (as in, plied twice, not 2ply weight) will tend to be looser with a roving texture. This doesn’t make for good pom pom yarn as it can come apart when you are pulling tightly and wrapping it around the pom pom maker. 

    The higher the ply, the stronger the yarn. 

    For this tutorial I am using 50g of 4ply yarn. It’s a merino yarn with 25% nylon and it is known as a good all rounder and is plied to ensure that it does not easily break when it meets some tension. 

    The best pom poms you will ever make. Easy pom pom tutorial for beginners

    You need really strong yarn as you want something that can be pulled tightly without breaking. The fabric scissors will handle them when you come to cut your pom pom.

    How to make a pom pom, step by step.

    • Step 1:

    Set up and open up your maker.  You should have received instructions for this in your package.

    Learn how to make beautiful pompoms
    • Step 2:

    Using your thumb to hold the tail end of the yarn in place, start winding back and forth until the arm is covered. It can take a while, but be patient. It’ll be worth it!

    How to use a pompom maker
    • Step 3:

    Wind the yarn until the hard edges of the maker are softened. At least 1mm of yarn thickness required. You shouldn’t be able to feel the edges of the maker when you press it between your thumb and forefinger.

    • Step 4:

    Open up the other pair of arms and start wrapping yarn around them. 

    Step 5: Cover the second pair of arms in the same way. 

    Top tips for making amazing pom poms
    • Step 6:

    When you’re happy with the thickness of the yarn wrap, it’s time to cut. 

    • Step 7:

    Take your fabric scissors and cut, making sure that your scissors are placed in the groove of the maker. Cut all edges, making sure there are no uncut threads. 

    How to make pompoms with the knitpro pompom maker. Easy pom pom maker tool
    • Step 8:

    Cut about 30cm (12in) of yarn. Tie it around the pom pom. Come around and tie the other side too and then finish with another tie and a knot. Make sure that you have tied the pom pom as tightly as you can. 

    Knitters pride pom pom maker for easy pom poms.
    How to secure pom poms to stop them from falling apart.
    Tie your pom poms tightly
    • Step 9:

    Release the pom pom and trim to size. Your pom pom should feel full, tightly secured and heavy. 

    Make a perfect pom pom with a maker and yarn
    How to make a full, neat, beautiful pom pom

    If you want to know how to securely attach your pom pom to a hat, you can see the full video tutorial here: 

    Other makers to try in order to make great pom poms:

    Benecreat wood pom pom makers.

    These pom pom makers are similar to the classic style that we make out of card and cardboard, but as they’re wood, they last longer! You get 12 pieces in the set so it’s great value for a lot of different pom pom sizes. What I also like about this pom pom maker set is how the pieces are flat, meaning they store flat!

    The pom pom loom maker.

    This particular set is from woojfcang. These styles of maker have actually been praised for their ease of use for arthritic hands. There are no tricky parts to put together, making this pom pom maker one of the most accessible on the market.

    What else I like about this style of maker is that it is a flat shape that can store really well in your craft bag. No pieces will come off or go missing, either. I have children, so I’ve lost half of my pom pom maker a few times!

    This particular tool doubles as a tassel maker. It’s perfect for a range of crafts.

    Easy pom pom makers for arthritic hands. The image shows a pom pom loom tool. Pom pom makers for children. The best pom pom makers to buy.

    Novelty pom pom makers

    Youngwier Heart Pom Pom Maker

    I not doubt for a second that with some trimming of a regular pom pom, you could shape your own hearts but having done that myself, it’s messy and if you’re not well practised in topiary or hairdressing, you can mess it up! I have a heart pom pom maker.

    Bear with me on this: when you first cut and release the yarn from this pom pom maker, it will just look like a regular pom pom at first. You will see though that it is slightly uneven. You then trim it to shape without having to guess, because it comes with instructions!

    How to make good pom poms. Great pom poms for beginners. Learn to make a pom pom with yarn and a pom pom maker.
  • Knitting flat with circular needles

    Knitting flat with circular needles

    Can you knit flat with circular needles? Yes! You absolutely can. 

    I’ve seen this question come up several times in knitting groups. Even advanced knitters will ask, ‘can you knit flat on circular needles?’ and the answer is yes. In this blog post I’ll talk you through the pros and cons of circular needles, and how you can use them to knit anything! I will also guide you through the essential kit you need for knitting with circular needles.

    This article contains some affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase via the links provided, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    You can knit flat with circular needles, and here are a list of benefits you get from doing that:

    • Eases the weight on your wrists and arms.

    Unless you’re an armpit knitter, you’ll probably start feeling the weight of your flat needles after a couple of hours of knitting. You can always take a break, but if you want to get back into it, using circulars can help take the pressure off. As your piece gets bigger, it can start putting pressure on your hands and wrists. Sliding the stitches onto circulars is a more efficient, lighter way to knit larger pieces.

    • You can knit larger things

    If you have a long cord on your circular needles, you can knit anything! Knit men’s XXL sweaters; knit baby blankets right up to king size throws with circular needles. Little coats and cardigans also benefit from being knit on circulars, as you can hold the entire thing on the cord while you attach the sleeves or knit the collar. Look out for cardigans and coats that are ‘top down’ or ‘bottom up’ in their construction, and have fun knitting the whole thing on one cord without the need of several stitch holders.

    • Use the circular needles as stitch holders.

    If you need a rest from the project you’re working on, you might find leaving it on circular needles more handy than finding a huge stitch holder. If you are using circular needles that have removable cords, it’s even easier! Unclip or unscrew the needles you’re using and knit something else with them. Your project will be safe on the cord.

    • Make your project more portable.

    Knitting with straight needles is fine when you’re on a sofa at home, but if you’re trying to knit on public transport or on a park bench, you might benefit from knitting flat with circular needles. If you’re an English knitter like me, you’ll find that your arm action can cause your needles to catch everything around you! There’s nothing more tragic than seeing your stitches slide off the end because you got caught in a curtain and dropped the needle. I can’t guarantee that this won’t happen with circular needles, but it presents a much slimmer possibility of slip-offs.

    Common misconceptions about knitting flat with circular needles.

    “You can’t use circulars because you have to keep flipping your work.” No, no you don’t. You finish your row and start working back on the other needle, just like with straight knitting pins. There is no flipping involved unless you’re knitting a pancake.

    “Circular needles aren’t suitable for beginner knitters.” Again, this is nonsense. It’s like with exercise: do something you enjoy and you’ll do it often. The same goes for knitting. If you learn to knit on circular needles, that’s fine. It’s perfectly doable. Circular needle tips come in every size out there, so I don’t see why a beginner couldn’t do it. Some knitters with mobility issues might actually find starting with some light aluminium circulars quite comfortable! The weight is taken out of it, and the cord can rest on your lap or on a cushion.

    “Circular needles are only good for knitting in the round.” No, they’re handy for every project. Every project!

     Drawbacks of knitting flat with circulars

    There are only some, but you should still watch out for them: 

    • They’re incredibly light so you could have trouble casting on. 

    Keep hold of them and keep an eye on them. Perhaps lay the needles on your lap or on a hard surface to make sure they don’t fall onto the floor. The casting on is the trickiest part, I find, as they’re not hard and heavy like straight needles.

    • Sliding on to the cable. 

    Stitches will slide on to the cable and this is where you need to manage your tension. If you’re casting on too tightly, those stitches won’t slide back up the needle so that you can knit with them! try and keep the stitches even and wide enough to fit onto the needles. 

    • Dropping stitches. 

    As I said before, no one can guarantee that you won’t drop stitches.

    Dropping stitches is sometimes really hard to avoid. I actually tend to drop a lot of stitches on straight needles as I seem to knock into them a lot or get them caught in my sleeve.

    With circulars, you could drop the stitches simply because the circular cord has been weighed down too much by your work. This will then pull the needle downwards and out of the stitches! Keep an eye on it and work with your lap or a hard surface when you are starting out. 

    You will also drop stitches if you’re using a really smooth material to knit with. Aluminium can be very sleek, so just remember to be careful when you put you knitting down. You can also use needle stoppers or a connector, like the one that comes with addi click needles.

    What to consider when choosing circular needles:

    What is the project? This is an important question to ask as if it is socks, you’ll want needles that are lightweight and easy to port around.

    What material do you like to use?

    Bamboo and driftwood are popular for their lightness and warmth, but they’re prone to snapping if you’re not careful! For something small like a sock, you may want to try a metal needle as they can go really thin without risking breakage.

    How pointy do they need to be?

    If you’re knitting lace, you will want a sharper, more accurate tip on your needles.

    What length do they need to be?

    If you’re using magic loop for a hat, socks or gloves, you need to consider how long your cord is. Likewise, you need to consider how long the cord is if you’re wanting to simply fit the whole thing on it! Circular needles come in a range of cord lengths from around 40cm to over 150cm. The sky really is the limit.

    Shop the range at Lovecrafts.

    My personal circular knitting needle favourites:

    Addi Click Basic Interchangeable Set

    I have always loved my addi click set. They’re just basic aluminium needle tips with a plastic cord, and they click into place! You just click and go. I think as with all interchangeable needles, they come with a risk of disconnecting mid-project. In the 12 years I’ve had these, I think they’ve only come off once, and I’m not even 100% sure that it wasn’t my fault!

    Addi are a perfect introductory brand for knitters. I also use Addi lace and Addi turbo for my projects. I started out with an Addi Click set, and these days you can get them in all the material types. There is a set for every budget. My cords are a little bit kinked these days (they’re over 10 years old!) but if you can’t straighten them with hot water, you can find replacement cords easily in any of the main knitting supplies stores. What knitter won’t need a few extra cords?

    Chiaogoo interchangeable needle set. Kitting flat with circular needles. Best circular knitting needles to choose.

    Chiaogoo interchangeble needles. These were a birthday present a few years ago, and I love them. They’re sharp, strong steel and although they can sometimes unscrew themselves mid-project, this rarely happens! You get a little pin that helps you secure them nice and tight. The cords don’t kink as easily as my addi needles or knitpro needles. They have a coil inside that keeps them straight. Really handy to have. You also get a nice little ruler for gauge, as well as stitch markers, life saving cord stoppers and T pins.

    Knitpro Zing circular needles: These are so, so handy. Out of the needle types that I have, I think the Knitpro cords are the trickiest to keep straight. They can kink and knot in my knitting bag. Also, because the metal needles have a colour coating on them, they don’t help the stitches glide as easily. They have a good sharpness to the tips, so that’s great if you’re using them for a range of projects.

    They come in a different colour for each size, so you really can collect them all. You can also get them in an interchangeable set:

    How to knit flat with circular needles. Knitting tips for beginners. Flat knitting on circulars.
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  • The Jewel Hat: Crochet Beanie Granny Stitch Pattern.

    The Jewel Hat: Crochet Beanie Granny Stitch Pattern.

    Jewel hat crochet beanie (100% crochet version)

    This is the little sister of the Jewel Hat, with the main difference being that the hat is 100% crochet construction. FpHdc and BpHdc create a ribbed brim and bobble stitches create clusters of jewel like shapes across the hat. Add a pom pom for extra enjoyment.

    If you’d prefer an ad-free version of this pattern, the PDF is available on Ravelry.

    This pattern contains affiliate links, meaning that if you do choose to buy any of the recommended supplies, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    All terms are in US terms. If you don’t know your crochet terms, I have a handy guide here.

     Materials 

    • 75g, (100g, 125g)/ 3oz/3.5oz/4oz of worsted weight yarn such as Malabrigo Worsted or Cygnet Boho Spirit. ( 240m/262yds/ 100g.) Measurement includes pom pom.
    • 5mm/ I-9 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
    • Darning needle to weave in ends.
    • Pom pom maker (optional).

    Gauge: 

    Rib: 16 Hdc sts and 24 rounds per 10cm (4in) 

    Body: 6 bobble stitches and 7 rounds per 10cm (4in) 

    To fit head size up to:

    1. Small adult: 22 inches/ 55cm
    2. Medium adult: 24 in/60cm
    3. Large adult. 25 in/64cm

    All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated. 

    worsted weight crochet beanie pattern. Image shows a granny stitch cluster hat.

    Jewel hat crochet beanie in size M using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Dream. 

    Glossary: 

    Back post HdcYarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
    Bobble stYarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
    Ch Chain. Yarn over and pull up a loop. 
    Ch spThe space or gap created between stitches. 
    Front post HdcYarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
    HdcHalf double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. 
    Hdc rib Hdc in the front post of the first stitch, back post hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
    Sl Slip stitch
    St(s)Stitch (stitches)

    Special decrease: 

    When decreasing for the crown, work your bobble stitch over 2 chain spaces:

    Yarn over, insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. (2 loops on hook)

    Yarn over and insert hook into next ch sp, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). 

    Yarn over and insert hook into same ch sp this time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Pull through all 4 loops on hook. 

    How to make your crochet beanie: Set up:

    Chain  59 (63, 67) and turn. 

    Hdc into 4th ch from hook (counts as 1st Hdc) and Hdc in every st to end. Sl st into top of 1st Hdc to join the round. 56 (60, 64) Hdc sts in total.  

    Next round: 

    Ch 3. Work 6 (6,8) rounds in Hdc rib, using sl st to join rounds. 

    Jewel hat in largest size with Malabrigo worsted. 

    Round 1: Insert hook into top of last Hdc, Bobble st in same stitch (completes 1st bobble). *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 Bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first bobble using sl st. Turn.

    Round 2:  Ch 1 and Bobble in 1st Ch sp in ch sp.  *Chain 2, sk 1 ch, 1 bobble in next st*. Repeat * to end. Join with first Bobble using sl st. Turn. 

    Repeat round 2 for 5 (6,7) more rounds or until hat measures 20.5cm/8in from 1st hdc round.

    Crown decreases: 

    Decrease round 1: Work 1 Bobble over 2 ch sp. Repeat to end. 

    Decrease round 2: Work 1 round even. Join with sl st in 1st 

    Bobble. 

    Repeat last 2 rounds once more. Fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing up. 

    Closing the crown. 

    Drawstring finish to close the crown:

    With cut yarn, insert needle into top of every other chain around the hole. Pull to tighten. Fasten off. Weave in ends.    

    Optional: Attach pom pom. 

    worsted weight crochet beanie free. Crochet hat pattern free. Simple crochet toque pattern. Beanie hats with cluster stitch

    Jewel hat with the brim rolled back. 

    Crochet granny stitch beanie pattern free. Free crochet hat patterns. Crochet hat pattern easy

  • The Jewel Hat: Crochet Granny Stitch Beanie With A Knit Brim.

    The Jewel Hat: Crochet Granny Stitch Beanie With A Knit Brim.

    The Jewel hat is a crochet granny stitch beanie with a stretchy knit brim. If you don’t knit at all, there’s a crochet only version of this hat here. If you’d like to try this version, you can find the pattern below. If you’d prefer the ad-free PDF it is also available on Ravelry here.

    This blog post contains affiliate links, meaning that any purchases made result in a small commission for me, at no cost to you.

    This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you need a quick reference guide, there is one here.

    US and UK crochet terms for beginners. Crochet explained.

    Inspiration for this pattern

    I love crochet just as much as I love knitting, and I thought it would be fun to combine the two in a single design. You can crochet rib to look just like knitting, but it is quite bulky, uses a lot of yarn, and it just doesn’t stretch as far as a knitted rib does. Because of this, I felt that a hat that combined knitting and crochet in this way would be really fun to make, and quick!

    This hat is perfect for emergency hats, or gift knitting. You can whip one up in a couple of hours once you’ve knitted the brim. I love it. All of my kids have a Jewel hat, as do I! I hope you’ll love it too. It comes in several sizes so everyone in the family can have their own.

    I used Cygnet Boho Spirit for my sample (main image) which originally used to say that it was DK on the label, but it sits somewhere in between DK and Aran.

    We all appreciate how cute and quick the granny stitch is, so here’s a hat that offers the best of this stitch.

    A little bit about the Jewel hat: A granny stitch beanie with a knit brim.  

    The jewel hat is a cute, quick stash busting hat with a knitted rib brim and a crochet body. Sizes included are 12 months to adult large. The crochet stitches work wonderfully with variegated yarn and create clusters of jewel-like shapes but you can use any yarn you like. 

    The measurements given are for a slightly slouchy beanie. If you would prefer a more exaggerated slouch, go ahead and add to the length of the body before decreasing. 

    Sample shown in size 2 using Manos silk blend DK in Jamboree.  This yarn seems to be discontinued, but Malabrigo has a suitable alternative here if you want a silk/merino singly ply.

     Materials for your granny stitch beanie.

    • Worsted/light worsted weight yarn such as Cygnet Boho Spirit. Sample 1 uses Manos Del Uruguay silk blend DK in colourway Jamboree. Sample 2 uses Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic. See table for yarn requirements. 
    • 3.75mm needles, either DPN or 80cm circular for magic loop. 
    • 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge. 

    Gauge:

    Knit brim:  1×1 rib 6 sts per 1in 2.5cm 

    Crochet body: 7 rounds and 6 stitches per 10cm/4in using 4.5mm crochet hook. 

    SizeTo fit head Yarn weightMeterage/Yardage
    1: 12m-3y48cm/19in50g/1.76oz135m/148yd
    2: 3-10years51cm/20in75g/2.7oz200m/219yd
    3: Small adult 53cm/21in100g/3.5oz270m/295yd
    4: Medium adult55cm/22in125g/4.4oz303m/332yd
    5: Large adult 60cm/24in150g/5.3oz337m/368yd

    All crochet terms are US crochet terms unless otherwise stated. 

    Glossary: 

    Ch 2: Make two chains. 

    Ch space: The ‘gap’ or space made by a chain. It is located below the chain. 

    DC: Double Crochet (US) known as Treble crochet in UK. 

    Dc cluster: Yarn over,  insert hook, pull through loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, leaving 2 loops on hook unworked.. Yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, pull through loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops. 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch for a 3rd time, yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 4 loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

    K1 P1 Rib: Knit one stitch, purl one stitch. Repeat to end.

    Sl st: Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch.  

    Simple knit beanie with a crochet body. Granny stitch hat pattern free. Granny stitch crochet toque free pattern. Patterns that combine knitting and crochet.

    Instructions for your granny stitch beanie hat: 

    Using knitting needles, cast on 90 (96, 102, 108, 120) sts 

    Taking care not to twist stitches, join to work in the round and work 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) rounds  in K1 P1 rib or to desired length. 

    Cast off in rib. 

    Using a 4.5mm crochet hook and the working yarn, insert hook into first stitch. Dc cluster. Chain 2 and sk 2 stitches. Repeat to end. Join with first Dc cluster using sl st. 

    30 (32,34,36,40) Dc clusters 

    Sl stitch across first Dc cluster. *Dc cluster in ch space, ch 2.*

    Repeat until hat body measures 12cm/5in (14cm/5.5in, 15.5cm/6in, 16.5cm/6.5in, 17.5cm/7in) from cast on edge. 

    Decreases: 

    Start next round in same way as previous rounds. This time, instead of Dc cluster in next ch space, skip one ch space and Dc cluster in every other ch space. 

    Next round  *Dc cluster,, ch 2* repeat * to end. 

    Work these last 2 rounds until 4,4,4,2,2,2 Dc clusters remain. Ch2 and sl st into nearest cluster or seam up with a darning needle to close hat. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

    Optional: Attach pom pom. 

    Top tip: Try the hat on before decreasing to see how you like the fit. Need more slouch? Work another 2 rounds. 

    Crochet beanie with a knit brim. /. Granny stitch beanie hat pattern free. Cygnet Boho Spirit Yarn pattern ideas. Easy crochet projects for knitters.

    Sample 2 photographed using Cygnet Boho Spirit in Chic. 

    Full video tutorial for this beanie hat pattern is here:

  • How to knit an ear warmer. Simple garter stitch headband tutorial for beginners.

    How to knit an ear warmer. Simple garter stitch headband tutorial for beginners.

    Beginner-friendly tutorial showing you how to knit an ear warmer. This really simple design is also perfect for knitters looking to get through their stash.

    Head warmer for beginners. How to knit an ear warmer. Knitting for beginners. Image shows a woman wearing a garter stitch headband. Ear warmer knitting tutorial. Learn to knit.

    Need a quick gift for a friend? Knit an ear warmer!

    Need to practice casting on and casting off, but you don’t want to knit something tedious like a long scarf? Knit an ear warmer!

    Do you just want a quick, satisfying project? Knit an ear warmer.

    You get my point. In this tutorial I will talk you through how to cast on, knit garter stitch and cast off.

    What you’ll need for this project:

    • Aran weight yarn. I used Kiddies Supersoft Aran in Blush. You will need approx. 50g of yarn no matter which brand you choose.
    • 5mm needles. In the tutorial, I’ve used 5mm circular needles (short, straight needles with a cord connecting them) but any needles are fine. Most beginners use straight needles.
    • Scissors, for cutting your yarn at the end.

    How to knit an ear warmer:

    This is a beginner pattern, meaning anybody who knows how to cast on and knit can make this item.

    Help! I don’t know how to do these things.

    Here’s a video showing you how to cast on. I use a cast on called the backwards loop method. This is the method that I was taught. If you don’t like this style of cast on, there are many others that you can try before you settle on what feels comfortable for you.

    Written instructions for this cast on:

    • Take the tail end between your thumb and forefinger in your right hand.
    • With your left hand, take the working yarn between your thumb and forefinger.
    • Drape the yarn over the top of your next three fingers and round again so that the yarn just overlaps slightly.
    • Turn your hand towards you.
    • With your other hand (keep hold of the tail end), insert your knitting needle into the loop that is sitting across the top of your three fingers.
    • Pull the working yarn to tighten the loop over the needle.
    • Repeat to end.

    Here’s how to knit the garter stitch. The garter stitch is the one we use to knit this ear warmer.

    • Cast on the desired amount of stitches. In this video I have cast on 18 stitches.
    • Insert the right hand needle into the front of the first stitch (it looks like a loop at this point) on the left hand needle.
    • Take the working yarn and wrap it around the back of the right hand needle and bring it down towards you so that it will sit between the left hand and right hand needle.
    • Insert your right hand needle back into the stitch and pull the stitch over the tip of the left hand needle onto the right hand needle.
    • Repeat to end.

    How to cast off:

    Written instructions for cast off:

    Casting off is pretty straightforward as long as you bear this in mind: If your tension is too tight when you cast off, you need to use a needle that is at least 0.5mm thicker. If your tension is too loose, use a smaller needle.

    Instructions for cast off :

    • Knit 2 stitches.
    • Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
    • Knit 1 stitch from the left hand needle. 2 needles remain on the right hand needle.
    • Using the left hand needle, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on the right hand needle. 1 stitch remains on the right hand needle.
    • Repeat step 3 and 4 to end.

    Now that you’ve learned how to cast on, knit and cast off, here is the pattern for you to follow!

    Knit an ear warmer:

    Cast on 18 sts

    Knit every row until piece measures 4 inches (10cm) less than your head width:

    • If your head measures 21 inches, Knit to 17 inches.
    • If your heard measures 22 inches, Knit to 18 inches.
    • If our head measures 23 inches, Knit to 19 inches.

    Cast off.

    Placing right sides together, fold the piece in half lengthways and then pinch each end so that they’re halved widthways. Slot the folded pieces together to create 4 layers and an S shape. Sew up all 4 layers together.

    Cut yarn and fasten off. Turn right side out and admire your handiwork.

    See the full video below to see a demonstration of the pinched twist and the finishing.

    How to knit an ear warmer. Simple beginner pattern for a knit headband. How to knit for complete beginners. Learn to knit the garter stitch. Woman wearing a knit headband.
  • Totes Crochet Bag. Free Granny Square Tote Bag Pattern.

    Totes Crochet Bag. Free Granny Square Tote Bag Pattern.

    Free crochet tote bag pattern. Free corchet granny square pattern for beginners. Crochet a bag.

    If you love granny squares and functional crochet, here is a pattern for a simple crochet bag that uses joined up granny squares. This is a free pattern for a crochet tote bag.

    Can a beginner make this crochet bag? Here’s a quick skill check:

    You should be able to:

    • Make a chain.
    • Make the basic crochet stitches e.g. double crochet and single crochet. If you need help with your crochet terms, I have a guide here.
    • Make a granny square. Here’s a free tutorial if you’re not sure how to crochet a granny square.
    • Join granny squares. Here’s how.

    Totes crochet bag 

    The Totes crochet bag is a simple design for a crochet bag. This is a pattern for a simple cotton crochet tote bag using granny squares and a combination of slip stitch, double and single crochet. 

    Use this crochet bag for anything. The straps will be worked continuously rather than sewn on for added strength. 

    Materials: 

    • 1 4mm crochet hook
    • Cygnet 100% Cotton DK (100g per ball): 1 x Smokey Purple, 1 x Pepper, 1 x Peony Pink, 1 x Golden, 1 x Spring, 2 x Vanilla Cream. 
    • Darning needle 

    Here is the link to the video playlist. The videos do not replace the pattern instructions; they are there as support with visualising the project. It is still useful to learn to read the written instructions to develop your skills. 

    I use US crochet terms throughout. 

    Glossary: 

    ChChain. Yarn over and pull through the 1 loop on the hook. 
    Ch spThe space of gap that has been created by stitches. 
    DcDouble crochet stitch: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. 
    ScSingle crochet stitch.Insert hook into the chain or stitch, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. 
    Sl stSlip stitch. Insert hook into chain or chain space, yarn over and pull through.
    RS Right side of the work. 
    WS Wrong side of the work. 

    You can see in the square above where the corners are and how we only increase in corners. 

    Step 1: Granny squares (Make 8) 

    Round 1. 

    1. Using yarn A, ch 4. Sl st to join with the 1st chain. 
    2. Ch 2 and dc 2 times into the centre of the ring. 
    3. Chain 2 and dc 3 times into centre of the ring. (6 dcs in total.)
    4. Repeat last step 2 more times. (12 dcs in total)
    5. Sl st into top of first dc chain to join the round. 

    Round 2: 

    1. Using. yarn B, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp.  Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. First corner done. 
    2. Chain 2 and dc 3 times into next ch sp. Ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp. 
    3. Repeat step 2 twice more. 
    4. Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round. 

    Round 3

    1.  Using yarn C, sl st across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp.  Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. 
    2. Ch 2 and work 3 dcs into next ch sp to corner ch sp
    3. Ch 2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.  
    4. Repeat step 1 and 2 to end.  
    5. Sl st with top of 1st dc to close the round.

    Round 4 and 5: 

    Changing colours (Yarn D and E) at the beginning of each round, work instructions for round 3, 2 more times until you have 5 completed rounds in total. 

    Border: 

    Using Vanilla Cream (Yarn F) join new yarn  and work 1 dc into the top of every dc stitch, and 2 dcs in every ch sp to end. Sl st to close round. 

    Assembly: 

    The squares are joined in pairs and then as fours after some distancing with dc stitch. 

    Panels (Make 4) 

     With RS together and yarn F, Sl st to join across one side from the top right corner to the top left corner.

    Dc in every dc for two rows across the top of each panel. 

    Joining panels. 

    With RS facing, lay the upper panel facing the lower panel. The lower edge of the upper panel should be in line with the upper edge of the top panel. Sl st across to join. The dc rows will now be in the centre and across the top of the bag. 

    You will now have two rectangular pieces: The front and the back of the bag. 

    Edges: 

    Vertical (side) edge: 

    With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows. 

    Horizontal (bottom) edge: 

    With RS facing, sc across all dc sts for 4 rows. 

    Joining the bag. 

    With RS facing, starting at the top right corner, use sl st joining method to join the vertical seam, horizontal (bottom) seam and back up the left side vertical seam. 

    Straps (make 2)

    Using removable stitch markers or safety pins , mark 5 stitches at the top of the bag that sit in line with the centre of each top granny square on the front and the back of the bag. You need to mark 4 areas of the bag. 

    Using yarn E, join new yarn and dc 5 sts. Ch 2 and turn. 

    Work 39 more rows. 

    Sl st to join with the marked strap area of the opposite side. 

    Repeat for second strap. 

    Weave in ends and enjoy!

  • Why you should try the granny square

    Why you should try the granny square

    Why should you try the granny square?

    If you’re new to crochet, you will have undoubtedly seen the granny square. It’s a square piece of fabric that looks like thick lace. It is worked from the centre out and can vary in colour and style. Some granny squares are tiny, while others are an entire blanket. Some start square and stay square, while others start round and finish square. Scroll down and you’ll see what I mean. 

    Granny squares haven’t really gone anywhere since their boom in the 1970s. As Debbie Stoller, author of Stitch and Bitch: The Happy Hooker recalls: 

    If you grew up in the seventies, as I did, you might fear the granny square–if only because, for a while, clothing was made of nothing else. Granny square vests, granny square shorts, granny square hats. Heck, I bet there was some kid out there who was forced to go to school wearing granny square underwear.

    Things are not so desperate these days but you certainly get the impression that granny squares are: 

    • Addictive 
    • Versatile 
    • Wearable (ish)  

    If you’ve seen anything from my Youtube channel recently, you will see that I too, am hooked on these clever little squares. You will see me making lots of them this month for the #StashBlanketCAL. This is a winter project where myself and anyone who wants to join will be making a blanket from their stash yarns. It’s lots of fun. Read more about that here. 

    What is a granny square for? 

    I was asked this via Twitter and I honestly have no idea. My understanding of the granny square is that it is convenient, takes up little yarn and little space and can be considered a piece of a greater puzzle. It helps you to get through scraps of yarn and build something big without the worry of long rows. 

    What can you do with granny squares? 

    Now for the fun part! What I’m going to show you next are some examples of where the granny square works and how you could use it. 

    Example A: The Battenberg blanket

    Crochet granny square blanket pattern. Battenberg blanket pattern for crochet.

    This is the Battenberg blanket from the Cherry Heart Blog. You can view it here

    I absolutely love this granny square design because it drapes so well and allows you to use all the colours you can, if you want to. It’s just gorgeous. You could work on this over a longer period of time and just make squares when you have the time. You would be able to work plenty of granny squares in one sitting as they’re so small. It’s also ideal for using up stash yarns!

    Example B: The Squircle Bag

    Crochet market bag pattern by artisan crochet designs. Join multiple squares to make a bag. Squircle bag.

    This is the Squircle bag by Lyndsey of Artisan Crochet designs. It’s a very clever design as it uses the granny square but with an added element of circles. Circles with corners! I also love the way the squares have been joined together to make a cute market bag. Why not try this with some everyday yarn and use it as a way of keeping your carrier bag usage down? Try some sturdy cotton or hemp for heavier goods. This is another example of where the granny square absolutely works. You can get the Squircle bag pattern here. 

    Example C: Granny Square Cardigan

    Granny square crochet cardigan pattern.

    While granny squares undoubtedly make good accessories and blankets, you should try the granny square as part of a garment. This is the Granny Square Cardigan pattern by Janne Kleivset of Joy Of Modern Crochet. You can read more aboutt he pattern here. What I love about this is that you can make an entire garment but start off really small. A single granny square is no big ask. 

    Example D: Crochet shorts 

    I think this is a classic case of ‘just because you could, doesn’t mean that you should’. if you want to, go ahead! It’s just not my cup of tea. 

    Granny square crochet shorts

    Like I said, you do you. 

    Overall, you should definitely try the granny square. head to my Youtube for some straight to the point, quick granny square tutorials. Why not join my latest crochet along and work on your granny squares too? 

    Granny square crochet patterns and inspiration.
  • Hatchmere Hat Knitting Pattern. Cable knit hat free pattern.

    Hatchmere Hat Knitting Pattern. Cable knit hat free pattern.

    Cable knit hat and mitts pattern. This pattern is free, but if you’d prefer the ad-free PDF, you can get it here or on Ravelry.

    The Hatchmere cable knit beanie hat and fingerless mitts are a really simple introduction to cable knitting. There is also a matching cowl you can try.

    On the edge of Delamere Forest, just behind the welcoming Carrier’s Inn, sits Hatchmere Lake. The captivating view from the Inn was obscured for years by high reeds & brambles, but is now cleared & a very pleasant sight.

    The simple cable stitches of the Hatchmere Hat & Mitts complementary set reflect the comings & goings of the Lake’s birdlife & the little prints & ripples they leave behind

    Free pattern for a cable knit hat and cable knit fingerless mitts. Simple cable knit patterns ofr winter. Free pattern for adult hat and gloves. Free beanie pattern knit cables.

    This hat and mitts set uses 2 skeins of Bowland DK in Dianthus. It’s a super soft, strong, buttery yarn made from the finest Bluefaced Leicester wool. 

    Cable Stitch Pattern 

    Worked over 9 sts: 

    Round 1: P1, K7, P1. 

    Round 2: P1, RC3, K1, LC3, P1. 

    The cable pattern will alternate in sync with the rnds e.g. Round 1 for the hat is the same as Round 1 of the cable pattern. 

    Glossary 

    CN- Cable needle

    CO- Cast on

    DPNs- Double pointed needles

    Inc- Increase

    K- Knit 

    LC- Left cable. 

    M1- Make 1. Knit into the front of the stitch, yarn over and knit into the back of the same stitch. 

    P- Purl 

    Rem- Remaining

    RC- Right cable 

    RC3 (Right cable 3)- Sl next 2 sts onto CN and hold at back of work. K next st from LH needle then K2 from CN. 

    LC3 (Left cable 3)- Sl next st onto CN, hold at the front of the work. K next 2 sts from LH needle, then K from CN. 

    PM- Place marker

    Rnd(s)- Round(s)

    Sl- Slip

    SM- Slip marker 

    Sts- Stitch(es)

    Hatchmere cable knit hat is a really simple beanie. Knit this cabe knit hat really easily with these step by step instructions. Winter knitting patterns free.

    What you’ll need to make this cable knit hat.

    Materials: 

    • 60/80/100g/2/3/3.5oz of DK yarn such as Bowland DK by Eden cottage yarns 100% British Bluefaced Leicester wool in colourway Dianthus. 225m / 246yd per 100g / 3.5oz
    • 4mm / US 6 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method, or size needed to obtain gauge. 
    • 3.75mm / US 5 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method.

    Notions 

    Cable needle. 

    Darning needle. 

    Optional: Pom pom maker. 

    Gauge 

    28 sts and 32 rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm on 4mm / US 6 needles in cable pattern. 

    Hat will fit head size: 

    • Small: 54cm / 21in 
    • Medium:58cm / 22.5in 
    • Large: 62cm / 24in 

    Cable Stitch Pattern 

    Worked over 9 sts: 

    Round 1: P1, K7, P1. 

    Round 2: P1, RC3, K1, LC3, P1. 

    The cable pattern will alternate in sync with the rnds e.g. Rnd 1 for the hat is the same as Rnd 1 of the cable pattern. 

    Note: There will be 14 sts for each repeat–5 K st and 9 cable sts. 

    How to make your Hatchmere cable knit hat. Start here:

    With 3.75mm / US 5 needles, cast on 98 (112, 126) sts. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. 

    Work in 1 x 1 rib for 14 rnds. 

    If using a row counter, after 14 ribbing rnds are complete, reset it to 0. 

    Switch to larger needles 

    Rnd 1: *K5, rnd 1 of cable pattern over next 9 sts; repeat from * to end of rnd. 

    Round 2: *K5, rnd 2 of cable pattern over next 9 sts; repeat from * to end of rnd. 

    Work rnd 1 and 2 until piece measures 15cm / 6in  (17cm / 7in, 19cm / 8in) from cast on edge. 

    Crown shaping: 

    Taking care to follow the alternating cable pattern rounds: 

    Decrease rnd 1: *K1, K2tog, K2, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. (1 st decreased every st panel) 91 (112, 117) sts.

    Decrease rnd 2: *K4, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd. 

    Decrease rnd 3: *K1, K2tog, K1, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd. 84 (96, 108) sts.

    Decrease rnd 4: *K3, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of rnd. 

    Decrease rnd 5: *K1, K2tog, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. 77 (88, 99) sts.

    Decrease rnd 6: K2, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. 

    Decrease rnd 7: *K2tog, work next rnd of cable pattern; repeat from * to end of round. 70 (80, 90) sts.

    Decrease rnd 8: *K1, cable pattern* repeat to end. 

    Decrease rnd 9: Repeat rnd 8. 

    Finishing:

    Cut yarn leaving at least 10cm / 4 in. 

    Thread the darning needle with the yarn tail, then pull the tail through all remaining sts. Pull tight to close the hole. Secure, weave in and fasten off. 

    Block hat to open out cable pattern. 

    Love your Hatchmere cable knit hat? If you’d like to complete the set, here are the instructions for matching cable knit mitts.

    Mitts (make 2)

    Hatchmere cable knit hat and mitts. Free knitting pattern for cable knit fingerless gloves. Easy knits for winter. Gift knitting ideas. Eden Cottage Yarns

    Materials  

    • 80g/3oz of DK yarn such as Bowland DK by Eden cottage yarns in colourway Dianthus. 225m/246yd per 100g/3.5oz
    • 4mm / US 6 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method, or size needed to obtain gauge. 
    • 3.75mm / US 5 DPNs or circular needle for magic loop method. 
    • Stitch holder (or spare yarn) for thumb of mitts. 
    • Cable needle. 
    • Darning needle. 
    • Stitch marker.  

    Gauge 

    28 sts and 32 rows =  10cm x 10cm / 4” x 4” on 4mm / US 6 needles in cable pattern. 

    Finished Measurements

    Mitts will fit hand circumference of up to 20cm / 8in – 23cm / 9in

    Finished size (unstretched): 18cm / 7in wide and 23cm / 9in long.

    Right glove: 

    CO 40 sts using 3.75mm / US 5 needles. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. 

    Work in K1 P1 rib for 16 rnds.**

    Switch to larger needles. 

    Rnd 1: K5, Rnd 1 of cable pattern, K to end. 

    Rnd 2: K5, Rnd 2 of cable pattern, K to end.

    Following cable pattern, work 14 more repeats, (30 rnds in total).

    Thumb gusset 

    Rnd 31: K5, next rnd of cable pattern, M1, K1, PM, M1, K to end. 42 sts.

    Rnd 32: Work in established stitch pattern around, without increasing, knitting increased sts from previous round. 

    Rnd 33: Work in established stitch pattern to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, M1, work in established stitch pattern to end. 44 sts.

    Repeat Rnds 32 and 33 until there are 50 sts. 

    Next row: Work next 30 sts in established pattern, without increasing, turn, leaving rem 20 sts unworked. 

    Cast on 2 sts beginning of next row, K11, turn. 

    Cast on 1 st at beginning of next row. ***K these 14 sts for 2cm (¾ in), then work 3 rnds of K1, P1 ribbing. 

    Cast off all sts loosely. 

    Rejoin yarn to unworked sts, inc 1 st and work to end of rnd. 40 sts. 

    Work in established stitch pattern for 13 more rnds, starting at Rnd 2 of cable pattern. 

    Switch to 3.75mm / US 5 needles and K1, P1 for 9 rnds. 

    Cast off in rib on larger needles. 

    Sew up thumb seam and gap at the bottom of thumb. Weave in all ends. 

    Left glove: 

    Work as for Right glove until **.

    Rnd 1: K26, Rnd 1 of cable pattern, K to end. 

    Rnd 2: K26, Rnd 2 of cable pattern, K to end. 

    Following cable pattern, work 14 more repeats, (30 rnds in total).

    Thumb gusset: 

    Rnd 31: K20, M1, K1, PM, M1, next rnd of cable pattern, K to end. 42 sts.

    Rnd 32: Work in established stitch pattern around, without increasing, knitting increased sts from previous round. 

    Rnd 33: Work in established stitch pattern to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, M1, work in established stitch pattern to end. 44 sts.

    Repeat Rnds 32 and 33 until there are 50 sts. 

    Next row: Work next 30 sts in established pattern, without increasing, turn, leaving rem 20 sts unworked. 

    Cast on 2 sts at beginning of next row, K11, turn. 

    Cast on 1 st at beginning of next row. Finish as for right glove from

    Hatchmere fingerless gloves and cable knit hat. Free pattern for winter hat ans fingerless mitts.

    Have you tried the matching Hatchmere Cowl?

  • Summer crochet cardigan pattern. Mesh stitch crochet cardigan.

    Summer crochet cardigan pattern. Mesh stitch crochet cardigan.

    Here’s a simple summer crochet cardigan with lace openwork and mesh stitch detail. This simple kimono sleeve cardigan is quick to make in cotton yarn.

    if you’d prefer to download the ad-free pdf of this pattern, you can do so on Ravelry or Ko-Fi.

    This article contains affiliate links, meaning that if you choose to buy from the links, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    This kimono lace cardigan is a summer must have. It’s lacy, light and goes with anything. Make sure you have one in several colours so that no outfit is off limits! The beauty of the kimono cut is the way it can flatter any shape. With the wide sleeves and open front, it has drape and moves beautifully on the wearer.

    All you need to know for this pattern is the double crochet stitch (US terms), chain and slip stitch join. 

    If you need to refresh your knowledge of crochet terms, I have a handy blog post here.

    This kimono style cardigan is worked sideways. 

    It is constructed by making two horizontal panels. The two panels are then folded lengthwise and the sleeves are worked in the round. 

    The left half is then seamed to the right half at the back and it is ready to wear! 

    Skills required to make this simple crochet cardigan:

    • Making a chain. This is essential to every beginner crochet pattern.
    • Double crochet (UK treble crochet). If you don’t know what that is, please check my handy stitch guide for crochet beginners.
    • Slip stitch join. If you don’t know what that even means, look at my post about joining granny squares. It’s the same join!

    Yarn required to make this simple, lightweight crochet cardigan with mesh stitch.

    I used Cygnet 100% cotton DK, which is a firm favourite at Germander Cottage Crafts but sadly, this yarn is discontinued. I have suggested some alternatives. This particular shade is called Peony pink! 

    If you can’t get your hands on this particular yarn, here are some great alternatives to consider:

    Paintbox yarns cotton DK: £2.75 per 50g ball and it comes in a great range of vibrant or pastel colours, as well as neutrals. It’s 125m per 50g ball so you will need another ball or two depending on the size you’re making. It also comes in value packs.

    Debbie Bliss Piper DK 5 ball value pack: £40 for 5 balls of this 50% cotton 50% viscose yarn from Debbie Bliss. It’s 200m per 100g ball so matches the Cygnet cotton requirement perfectly. Warm, yet lightweight, Debbie Bliss’ Piper is a versatile DK weight yarn with a crepe texture that drapes beautifully. Piper produces fantastic stitch definition and it’s gloriously silky and smooth to knit. The colour palette is made up of 16 fresh and contemporary shades, which are perfect for seeing you through the changing seasons.

    King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK: King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK is a fabulous yarn choice for summer knits and baby clothes! Bamboo yarns are famous for their non-allergic properties, and Bamboo Cotton DK is deliciously smooth on the skin, thanks to its 50/50 mix of bamboo and cotton. Ideal for a cotton summer cardi and robust enough for baby clothes that need to be in and out of the wash, Bamboo Cotton DK comes in a gorgeous range of pastels, deliciously muted berry shades and some deep accent colours. It’s £5.69 per ball and you get 230m per 100g ball!

    The Pattern: Crochet Summer Lace Cardigan Pattern.

    US crochet terms used throughout.

    Crochet cardigan patterns for summer. Easy crochet kimono to make. Crochet kimono cardigan patterns free. Beginner crochet patterns free.

    Sample shown in size M on a 44” bust. 

    Glossary

    ChChain. Insert hook, yarn over pull through loop. 
    Ch spThe chain space or gap created by the chains of the previous row. Work into the space rather than the chain or stitch. 
    DcDouble crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2. Yarn over and pull through 2. 
    RepRepeat
    Sl stSlip stitch. Insert hook into loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. 
    SkSkip a chain. 
    St(s)Stitch(es)

    Gauge:  12 sts and 10 rows per 10cm/4in in dc using 4mm hook and DK yarn.

    1 3Dc cluster measures 2cm tall. Cluster gauge is approximate because of the loose stitch. 

    Materials: 

    • 350g/400g/450g of Cygnet 100% cotton DK in Peony PInk. (200m/219yd per 100g/3.5oz). 
    • 4mm/US 6 crochet hook or size needed to meet gauge. 
    • Tapestry needle 
    • 4 removable stitch markers. 

    Sizes: 

    S can fit chest sizes 32-40″

    M can fit chest sizes 42-48″ 

    L can fit chest sizes 50- 56″ 

    Lace pattern: 

    Row 1: Ch3 (counts as 1st Dc) dc in each of next 3 ch *ch 3 sk next 3ch, Dc in each of next 3 ch* rep from * to last st. Dc in last ch. Turn.  

    Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). *3Dc in next ch- 3 loop, ch3*; rep from * to last Dc. Dc in last ch. Turn 

    Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) *3Dc in first ch 3 sp, ch 3* repeat * to last ch 3 sp. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn. 

    Repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern. 

    Panel measurements: 

    S: 156cm (61in) long and 42cm (16.5in)  wide 

    M: 162cm (64in) long and 46cm (18in) wide. 

    L: 174cm (68.5 in) long and 50cm (19.5in) wide. 

    Lace pattern (above)

    Sample shown in size M. 

    S- 26 3 Dc clusters. 

    M- 27 3 Dc clusters. 

    L- 29 3 Dc clusters. 

    Panel (make 2)

    Ch 160/166/178 (3 ch counts as 1st dc) Turn. 

    Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc in every ch. Turn. (158/164/176 sts total)

    Ch 3, Dc in every Dc to end. Turn. (158/164/176 sts total)

    Work lace pattern (page 2)  for 9 (10/11) rows. 

    Next section: 

    Ch3 *3Dc in ch sp, Dc in next 3 Dc* Repeat * to end. Ch 3 and turn. 

    Dc in every dc to end. Turn. (2 dc rows total)

    Work lace pattern for 9 (10/11) rows. 

    Ch3 *3Dc in ch sp, Dc in next 3 Dc* Repeat * to end. Ch 3 and turn. 

    Dc in every Dc to end. Turn. (2 dc rows total). Fasten off. 

    Mark for armholes: 

    Count 47 (49/51) dc sts. Place removable marker on next st. Count another 61 (63/71) sts. Place marker on 62nd (64th/72nd) st. 48 (50/52) Dc sts after second marker. 

    Fold the piece lengthwise so that the two markers are matched. Secure the markers together.  

    Do this for the opposite panel also. 

    Markers are matched to mark the sleeve opening. 

    Seam the side. 

    Using sl st join or a tapestry needle, seam the side of the piece from the hem to the underarm. This makes it easier to make the sleeve. 

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    Sleeve

    Reattach yarn and ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). Dc in every dc st around. (62/64/72) dc sts in total. Sl st to join the round.

     Work 5 more rounds. Fasten off. 

    The stitches should be split like this: 

    S- 158ch 48/62/48

    M- 164ch 50/64/50

    L- 176ch 52/72/52

    Assembly

    Join the two back pieces, right sides together using sl st, or seam with a tapestry needle. 

    Back seam should be 51cm/ 53.5cm/56cm (20in/21in/22in) long. 

    Weave in ends and enjoy!

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