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The Betwixt Crochet Cowl: A Simple Crochet Neck Warmer Pattern.
Sometimes you just need a simple crochet neck warmer. Not only will this pattern look good with one, two or more yarns but it is a great stash buster and easy to make.
The betwixt cowl is a design that has fun between the lines. Mix two or more colours of yarn to create this woven look. Crocheting the Betwixt cowl is much easier than it looks. The basic stitches required for this pattern are:
- Chain (Ch)
- Single crochet (Sc) also known as UK double (Dc)
- Half double crochet (Hdc) also known as UK treble (Tr)
Everything else in the pattern is built from these stitches. An example of this is the Back post and front post half double crochet.
Here is how you do the front post and back post half double crochet stitches:

Other stitches are included in the glossary below.
Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
If you don’t know your crochet terms, find the handy crochet terms chart here.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
Yarn used to create the Betwixt crochet cowl
The yarn I used to make this crochet neck warmer was a worsted weight. This is also known as aran or 10ply yarn. I would still recommend that you do a gauge swatch when choosing yarns as not all yarn thickness is the same as what it says on the label!
The yarn I used for my sample was Malabrigo worsted which is available in a rich variety of hand dyed shades. I used the colour Marine which is a really deep ocean blue.
The second yarn I used for the contrasting colour was King Cole Riot DK which, although it says “DK” as its weight, it met the worsted gauge required.
I loved how both of these colours interacted. You’ve got the backdrop of a semi solid dark shade and the jewelled tones of waterlily. The pale pinks, greens, silvers and yellows worked as an excellent contrast for this pattern.
The idea behind the design of this cowl pattern
I designed this cowl because I work with a lot of crochet beginners and a common error that beginners make is by inserting the hook in between stitches rather than on top of stitches. When you crochet a solid stitch such as Hdc, you usually insert the hook into the top of the stitch from the previous row to make a new stitch. In this case, I want crocheters to insert their hook between stitches. This creates a woven effect, especially if you use more colours like Joy did, here.
This crochet neck warmer is a quick, satisfying make!
Photo credit to @JollyToadstool
- You can see the linked projects for the Betwixt cowl here on Ravelry.
- The PDF pattern is available here if you would prefer an ad-free download.
Betwixt Cowl: Crochet Pattern
Betwixt cowl
The texture and clever placement of the half double crochet stitch gives this cowl its eye-catching stripes. Often, crocheters don’t mean to insert their hook in between stitches, but when you do, you can create effects like this!
Gauge:
12 Hdc sts and 15 rows = 10cm/4in using a 5mm (US 8) crochet hook.
Please swatch to meet gauge as I have quite loose tension. You may need to go up a hook size if there are fewer stitches, or go down a hook size if there are more stitches than stated.
Materials:
- MC–Malabrigo Worsted (100% merino wool). 190m/208yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Marine colourway.
- CC–King Cole Riot DK (70% acrylic / 30% wool). 294m/322yd per 100g/3.5oz. Sample shows yarn in Waterlily colourway.
- 5mm (US 8) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Darning needle for weaving in ends
Measurements:
Piece measures 23cm/9in deep and 32cm/12.5in in circumference, after blocking.
Special stitch(es):
The Hdc stitches are made in between stitches of the previous round. Insert hook into the space between the stitches, not into the top of the previous stitch.
Helpful videos:
Hdc rib:

Hdc stitch:

Glossary:
Pattern uses US terms throughout.
CC: Contrasting colour
Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.
Back post Hdc: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Front post Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble)
Hdc rib: Front Post Hdc in the first stitch, Back Post Hdc in the second. Repeat to end.
MC: Main colour.
Sc(s): Single crochet stitch(es)
Sl: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over and pull through.
St(s): Stitch(es)
How to make the Betwixt crochet neck warmer:
Setup:
With MC, ch 9.
Row 1: Insert into 2nd ch from hook. Sc to end. (8 scs total). Ch1, turn.
Row2: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. 8 sts total.
Work 77 more rows. (78 rows total)
Body:
1. Without fastening off, ch2 (counts as first st) and work 77 hdc along top of ribbing. Sl with first st to close round. Join CC and Ch2 in CC.
2. Hdc in between every previous st. Sl to close round. Join MC and Ch2 in MC.
Repeat Row 2, alternating MC and CC, for 27 more rounds or until cowl measures 22cm/8.75in from edge. On last round, work ch2 in MC.
Top ribbing:
Continuing with MC, hdc rib for 4 rounds. Fasten off.
Finishing: Weave in ends and close gap in sc ribbing. Block to measurements.
Thank you for visiting my blog! Enjoy your pattern.
If you require any pattern support please don’t hesitate to leave a comment or email me at info@germandercottagecrafts.co.uk
Happy hooking!
June 13, 2025

Easy baby crochet cardigan: Lovechunk sweater.

The Lovechunk sweater is a baby crochet cardigan pattern using worsted weight yarn. This ensures a quick, satisfying gift!

If you’re in need of a quick, easy make to give to a new baby, try the Lovechunk baby sweater. Not only is it made using aran weight yarn for a quicker project but it is available in sizes 6 months to 2 years. Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.

Prefer to get your crochet patterns as a downloadable PDF?

The Lovechunk baby sweater pattern PDF for this baby crochet cardigan is available h ere .

This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces so it’s the perfect small project to master your emerging crochet skills.

Really easy baby cardigan for crochet beginners. Crochet sweater for babies and toddlers. learn to crochet a quick and easy baby sweater pattern pdf.

Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.

There are affiliate links on this page. If you choose to purchase any yarn or tools with the links provided, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Why is the Lovechunk baby sweater good for crochet beginners?

The Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent crochet baby cardigan for crochet beginners to make as it helps you learn the fundamentals of crochet garment making in a small, manageable project. Learn how to crochet a flat, even fabric, change colour, seam and apply ribbed edging and cuffs. For such a small thing, this cardigan can help you master a lot of skills and understand how a crochet garment is constructed.

About the yarn

I used Paintbox Wool Mix Aran because it’s so soft and comes in a range of vibrant colours.

Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on a baby. Easy crochet cardigan pattern pdf. Quick crochet makes for babies and toddlers.

The Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on my baby in September 2023, when she was 3 months old. She is wearing the 6m size, but she was 10lb when she was born, so always check the baby’s size before starting your project.

Here’s why the Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent project even if you’re not 100% confident on crochet garments:

It requires no more than 200g (7oz) of aran weight yarn making it a budget-friendly project.
It is worked in 5 flat pieces making each section bitesize and portable.
You don’t have to do a colour change if you don’t want to.
It takes much less time than a blanket or adult size garment.
It only requires the knowledge of 2 crochet stitches- the half double (Hdc) and single crochet (Sc) making it really easy to remember.
There is hardly any shaping required for the garment, so you can focus on making it.
Each section is clear to follow and is separate so you can focus on what’s best for you and when.

What crochet stitch knowledge do I need?

Below is the glossary of stitches from the pattern to help you understand what is required to make this crochet baby sweater.

Over on my beginners crochet playlist on Youtube you can learn to make both the Hdc stitch and the Sc stitch. Click here to go to my channel.

Other crochet stitches and terms that you’ll need to know in order to make this simple baby cardigan.

Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.

Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.

Sk: Skip stitches

St(s): Stitch(es)

Pattern uses US terms throughout.

It’s important to know your US terms. Here is a handy chart to remind you of the differences between US and UK crochet terms.

The difference betweenb UK and US crochet terms. Crochet terminology for beginners. Learn your crochet terms.

I use US crochet terms in all of my patterns but I always recommend that beginners learn both terms as it will enable you to crochet absolutely everything.

Pattern: Easy crochet baby cardigan.

Lovechunk Baby Sweater

Every baby needs a simple, drop shoulder cardigan for cooler days and photo opportunities. I chose aran weight for this design because it has just the right amount of squish without being too stiff.

This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces.

Mix it up with colour changing yarn or use 2 yarns to create a colour block effect. It is sure to be your go-to gifting sweater for many years to come.

Gauge

13 sts and 10 rows to 10cm/4in with Hdc using 5mm crochet hook.

Please take time to swatch for tension. If there are fewer stitches in your swatch than suggested, decrease by 0.5mm increments until you get the right amount. If there are more stitches than shown above, increase your hook size by 0.5mm increments until you meet the amount.

Sample shown in size 2 (6-12m)

Notes

Ribbing:

The bottom waistband and the button bands are made with single crochet rib. This is a technique that involves making a single crochet stitch only in the back loop of every previous stitch. Normally, the hook goes under both loops, but for creating texture, you need to only insert into the back loop.

Size Chart

Age	Chest	Finished body circumference	Finished upper arm circumference	Finished wrist circumference	Armhole depth	Lower body length	Total body length	Arm length
0-6m	41cm/16in	42cm/16.5in	19cm/7.5in	11cm/4.25in	10cm/4in	16cm/6in	26cm/10in	13cm/5in
6-12m	46cm/18in	48cm/19in	22cm/8.5in	13cm/5in	12cm/4.75in	18cm/7in	30cm/12in	16cm/6in
1 yr	51cm/20in	53cm/21in	23cm/9.25	14cm/5.5in	13cm/5in	20cm/8in	33cm/13in	20cm/8in
2 yr	56cm/22in	58cm/22.75in	27cm/10.5in	16cm/6.25in	14cm/5.5in	22cm/9in	36cm/14in	22cm/9in

Glossary

Ch: Chain. This either means yarn over and pull through a loop or it refers to the chain at the top of the previous stitch.

Hdc: Half double crochet (UK half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Sc: Single crochet (UK double). Insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.

Sk: Skip stitches

St(s): Stitch(es)

Pattern uses US terms throughout

Materials

130 (150/180/200)g/ 4.5 (5/6/7)oz of aran weight yarn such as Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Aran 180m/ 197yd per 100g/ 3.5oz ball. Colours used are Paper White and Slate Grey.
1 15mm/ 0.5in button.
1 removable stitch marker
Darning needle
5mm/ US 8 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

You can find the Paintbox yarn I used for both cardigans here.

Instructions:
Back

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 27 (31/35/39) times, or until waistband measures 20 (23/25/27)cm/ 8 (9/10/11)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 25 (29/33/37) sts across top of waistband. 26 (30/34/38) sts total.

Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows, or until total back measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.

If changing colour, work the next 11 (12/13/14) rows in colour 2.

If using 1 colour, work another 11 (12/13/14) rows, or until total back measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.

Front panels (Make 2)

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until waistband measures 10 (11/12/13)cm/ 4 (4.5/5/5.5)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, Ch 2 (counts as hdc) and hdc 12 (14/15/16) sts across top of waistband. 13 (15/16/17) sts total.

Work 11 (13/15/17) more rows or until entire front panel measures 16 (18/20/22)cm/ 6 (7/8/9)in.

Shape neck

Hdc across 11 (13/13/14) sts. Ch 2, turn, leaving last 2 (2/3/3) sts unworked. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

If changing colour, work the next 10 (11/12/13) rows in colour 2. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

There is no obvious wrong side/right side so either work both panels the same as above and turn one piece over or cut yarn and skip 2 (2/3/3) sts before continuing hdc to end for the second panel. This will then leave a neck opening for left and right front. 11 (13/13/14) sts total.

If using 1 colour, work another 10 (11/12/13) rows, or until total front measures 26 (30/33/36)cm/ 10 (12/13/14)in. Fasten off.

Mark button hole

Using a removable stitch marker, mark the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) row of the right panel. This will be where the buttonhole goes.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Ch 7. Insert into 2nd ch from hook. 6 scs. Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in back loop of every st to end. Ch 1, turn. 6 sts.

Repeat last row 13 (15/17/19) times, or until cuff measures 11 (13/14/15)cm/ 4 (5/5.5/6)in when stretched. On last row, end with sc.

Without fastening off, ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc 13 (15/17/19) sts across top of cuff. Ch 2, turn. 14 (16/18/20) sts total.

Row 2: Hdc in 1st st, hdc to last st. 2 hdc in last st. (2 sts increased) Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc in 4th ch from hook. Hdc to end. Ch 2, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 10 (12/12/14) sts have been created. 24 (28/30/34) sts total.

Work even in hdc until sleeve measures 13 (16/20/22)cm/ 5 (6/8/9)in total. If changing colour, do so in the last 2 rows. Fasten off.

Finishing

Join shoulder seams first, starting from outer edge of shoulder and working your way inwards towards neck opening.

Sew each side seam up to armholes. 3.Seam sleeves and attach to armholes.

Buttonband

Attach yarn, starting at right bottom edge of front right panel. Sc into the side of every hdc row up to neck, around top of neck and down the left side hdc rows.

Sc in every sc until you get to the 19th (20th/21st/22nd) marked row of the right panel. Ch 1, sk 1 and sc to end. Remove marker.

Fasten off. Sew on button. Weave in ends and block, if desired.

Simple crochet baby cardigan pattern. Worsted weight crochet patterns. Quick baby crochet pattern.

June 13, 2025

How to make T-shirt yarn. DIY T shirt yarn tutorial.
Here’s how to make your own t shirt yarn from fabrics you may want to recycle instead of throwing out.
I first decided to use up some t shirt yarn when my lovely dog accidentally walked some poo into the house, smeared it onto the sheepskin rug and then lay on it for extra measure. I was devastated as that was her favourite place to sleep but there was no way I was going to get the sheepskin clean again. I was also short of another £50-£100 for a new sheepskin rug so my only option was to crochet something with what I already had around the house.
I can’t be the only person with a long history of different dress sizes, varying tastes in clothing and a box full of old t shirts that were not good enough to sell or give to charity but were still useful. If they have holes in, seams falling apart or are faded and threadbare, they’re still really useful for making home decor.
I also asked my Dad to donate some t shirts that are now too big for him. He donated some XXL t shirts and it helped me to finish off my crochet rug in a way that a size 10 women’s t shirt or age 5 leggings could not.
It was such a fun project. It’s like magic. You take a t shirt, cut it in a very specific way, stretch the strips and wind them into a ball. I’ll show you how I did it:
Materials required:
- Good fabric scissors. You’ll get smoother edges this way and limited fraying. I used these Fiskars scissors.
- A t shirt or dress made of stretchy cotton jersey.
- A roll such as a wrapping paper tube (optional) or your arm.
- A flat surface to work on.
First take the T shirt and cut from one underarm to the other in a horizontal direction. This frees up a tube or rectangle and you can make some yarn with absolutely no knots.
Cut off the bottom seam or unpick it first and then use it as part of the rectangle.
You need to cut across the t shirt in 1-2in strips depending on how thick you want your yarn to be. I cut mine in 2.5cm/1in strips as I had a 10mm hook but if you are using finger crochet or want to use a bigger hook, by all means go for the larger strip. T shirt yarn is very forgiving so it doesn’t matter if your strips aren’t symmetrical.
You have to cut across from one end to the next but you do not cut the end instead, you cut to about 1inch from the side seam (or side if you don’t have side seams). Keep cutting from one edge to 1 in before the other. You will only cut one side completely.
Next, you need to drape the uncut edge of the tshirt across your arm or a tube such as a wrapping paper roll. This enables you to see the uncut fabric. You will then cut the first top strip on the right diagonal (left leaning). That will be the beginning of the yarn ball.
If you’re left handed, work from the left to right, cutting diagonally from the bottom left to the top right.
You then need to cut from the top of the bottom right strip diagonally so it matches up with the top right strip.
Keep cutting the left leaning diagonal strips until there’s one strip left. Cut that off completely just as you did with the first strip. That is the other end of the yarn.
Don’t worry if you make a mistake here and end up with smaller strips. Just tie them together. The knots can be hidden under stitches.
How to wind it into a ball
At this point you can give the strips a little stretch. This just gives you more mileage out of the yarn and evens it out as it folds over on itself like bias binding does.
Can I use the rest of the t shirt?
You can but you won’t get as much fabric as you did with the body and there will be knots. I’ll pop another blog post up soon to show you how to do that but if you’re happy with the yarn that you have, why not just use the top parts as cleaning rags? They’re much more eco friendly than microfibre cloths as they don’t release microplastics when washed.
Can I cut up other fabric?
Yes. I used some of my daughter’s holey leggings too. I checked to see what direction the fabric was stretching in and I had a choice between cutting across the leg horizontally (just like with the t shirt) or cutting up the leg lengthways into strips. The latter method does result in pieces that need tying together but you’re never going to get away with that.
I also used a stretchy maternity dress as t shirt yarn. I just used the exact same method as I did with the t shirt. It was jersey knit fabric so it works absolutely fine.
You can also cut up fabrics that are not stretchy but these will not be as forgiving to work with so you might want to use a larger hook.
Here’s how to cut up your yarn using the whole tshirt.
June 13, 2025
Perfect cotton yarns to crochet and knit with this summer.
Want to crochet or knit something cute for summer but you’re not sure which yarns to work with? In this guide I’ll show you what’s on offer when it comes to cotton.
Here is my selection of cotton yarns that are perfect for your spring and summer projects.
This blog post does contain affiliate links. This means that I do earn a small commission at no cost to you.
Plant based yarns
Cotton is a number once choice for summer and it’s easy to understand why:
- It’s machine washable.
- It breathes.
- It comes in a range of vibrant colours.
- It works with everything from washcloths to sundresses.
Types of cotton yarns on the market:
Pima cotton– This is generally understood as yarn that is 30% stronger than regular cotton. It is made using longer fibres of cotton and therefore results in a softer cotton than standard. Pima cotton is very popular for making clothing worn close to the skin. It has a silk like quality thanks to its sheen and feel.
Mercerised cotton– This cotton yarn will be soft and silky when you handle it, too. The reason for the softness of mercerised cotton is the finishing process. The threads are then passed through caustic soda under tension. This swells the fibres and makes them thicker but also, stronger and softer than standard cotton.
Standard cotton– You’ll see this especially with yarns that are used for toys, bags and home wares such as washcloths. The way it is spun is slightly looser than pima and mercerised but it is still strong and durable. Standard cotton can be soft, too as it depends on the thread count of the fibre. The only main difference here is that standard cotton yarn hasn’t been treated for softness so after a few washes, your crochet garment may feel washed out.
Here are my top choices for cotton yarns.
1. Sirdar happy cotton DK is my number one choice for amigurumi and toys. It is available in a range of vibrant colours and comes in 20g balls. This means that you won’t end up with lots of yarn after making a small project. It’s a great choice for the minimalist or the amigurumi enthusiast.
2. King Cole Cottonsoft DK This cotton yarn is exactly what it says on the label- it’s soft. It’s a cotton yarn making it soft and durable for clothing and things like baby blankets. You could also check out King Cole Cottonsmooth which is a mercerised cotton version of this yarn and is even softer but it is slightly more expensive than Cottonsoft.
This yarn makes excellent summer garments as it is soft and machine washable. I find that a lot of cotton yarns have a tendency to feel like a hard dishcloth after a few washes but cottonsoft is different. It would work really well for something like the S ummer Lace Kimono Cardigan.
3. Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo and Cotton This range of bamboo cotton yarn is a great plant based material for your next crochet project. It’s 60% Bamboo and 40% cotton so if you find cotton a bit too tough to wear, try this. The bamboo adds more breathability and softness. This yarn is also available in DK and you get 250m per 100g ball. I’d recommend using this for all crochet projects that ask for DK cotton yarn.
Sheepjes Catona 4ply cotton yarn.
The widely popular Scheepjes Catona yarns have become a go-to yarn for many crafters.
It’s made from 100% Mercerised Cotton. It’s a fingering weight yarn and it is naturally breathable and characterised by a soft, delicate sheen and a smooth and supple touch.
You can use this one to create a range of garments, amigurumi, accessories, homeware items and toys for kids as it is so versatile. It comes in handy 50g balls. You get 125m per ball.
Being EN71-3 certified, Catona is safe to use by those with a sensitive touch such as babies or children, not to mention that this yarn is produced using recycled waste water, offering a more sustainable choice as well for eco conscious crafters.
My favourite thing about Sheepjes Catona in particular is the range of colours. I can imagine the En chanted garden blanket being worked up in one of these shades!
Not a fan of 100% cotton yarns? Here are some synthetic yarns that have been blended with cotton, wool or silk.
I’d recommend these yarns if you really love natural fibres like cotton but like to work with a bit of stretch.
1. Sirdar Snuggly Cashmere Merino is 57% Wool 33% Acrylic 10% Cashmere. Although acrylic is known to be quite sweaty in the summer, this blend of acrylic with cashmere and merino ensures that it is soft, has a bit of stretch and is breathable. Merino wool is celebrated as a moisture wicking fibre that also regulates the temperature of the wearer so you really shouldn’t leave it out of your summer options.
This yarn is available in a range of delicious jewel tones and is a more sustainable option than acrylic alone. Wool fibres make excellent summer cardigans, wraps or sweaters as they can be lightweight and easy to wear as part of a layered outfit. If you live in the UK, I’m sure you are familiar with the need for layers!
Don’t be fooled by Sirdar snuggly’s excellent track record of baby yarns either. This yarn is perfect for garments for you. Although it would make an excellent baby yarn, it does run the risk of shrinkage and felting as it is such a delicate yarn. It would therefore make a beautiful summer crochet garment or accessory that doesn’t require much washing as wool is antimicrobial.
2. King Cole Linendale DK is a linen blend yarn. It’s 57% cotton, 30% Viscose and 13% linen. This is an excellent summer crochet yarn as these three fibres are so very popular in summer clothing. Visit any high street shop and you’ll find this fibre content in most things. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre, also known as rayon. It is made from regenerated wood pulp and is incredibly lightweight. This yarn would therefore make an excellent breathable, light, warm weather wearable.
Use it in place of any DK yarn. Remember to check the gauge!
3. Last but not least is the Sheepjes whirl cake in 4ply.
This is such a gorgeous yarn and it takes care of the colour changes for you! You get 1000m of yarn in a 150g ball of 4ply. It’s made of 60% cotton and 40% acrylic so you really do get the benefits of both fibres.
Knit or crochet absolutely anything in it. My crochet shawl, Auro ra Nox was made using Sheepjes Whirl in Forbidden Fuschia.
If you would prefer to knit a shawl, Louise Tilbrook’s St Bees Shawl is an excellent use of a Sheepjes Whirl cake. Louise used the colourway green Tea Tipple.
As you can see, there’s lots of fun to be had with a Sheepjes whirl cake. I think the cotton element gives it that lightness and drape but the acrylic keeps the stitches in place. It’s very hard to stretch this out of shape like you can with 100% cotton.
June 12, 2025

Starburst Cardigan. Chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

This is a free crochet pattern for a chunky, multi-coloured cardigan. You can either use this free version with ads, or the pattern is also available here with no ads.

Ravelry

Ko-Fi Shop

The main feature of this crochet cardigan pattern is the bobble stitch. This is a fun stitch that will be a breeze to make as once you’ve done the first row, you crochet into the spaces, not the stitches! Here’s how to do the bobble stitch:

Bobble stitch-
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook.
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row.

Simple crochet cardigan pattern free. Free crochet cardigan pattern for women. Cardigans for chunky yarn. Stylecraft special chunky. Ravelry cardigan patterns free. Rainbow cardigan pattern. Easy crochet sweaters and cardigans. The Starburst cardigan pattern pdf. Free crochet for women. Bulky yarn patterns.

Starburst Cardigan: a chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

Named after the much loved 90s fruit chews, this cardigan promises a burst of colour and a quick turnaround. The funnel sleeves give it a retro feel and the bobbles scream retro charm.

This article does use affiliate links. This means that if you do choose to purchase anything with the links I’ve used, I do earn a small commission from that purchase at no cost to you. Thank you!

Wear it as an oversized addition to your wardrobe all year round!

Materials needed:

Stylecraft special Chunky. 100% Acrylic; 144 metres / 157 yards per 100g / 3.5oz 1 (1,1*,2,2) balls of each colour. *Size M needs 2 balls of Denim in total for the border, but 1 of every other colour. They also do a value pack if you wanted to simply do it in one colour.

Raspberry (1023)
Meadow (1065)
Lavender (1188)
Fondant (1241)
Lipstick (1246)
Denim (1302)
Camel (1420)
Aspen (1422)
6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
4 removable stitch markers.
Darning needle for weaving in ends.

Instructions to make this simple crochet cardigan pattern:

Gauge:

3 bobble stitches and 3 ch spaces/ 4 rows to 10cm/4” using a 6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook and Stylecraft Special Chunky.

Bobble stitch-
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook.
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

Things to be aware of before you make the Starburst crochet cardigan.

When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row.

US terms are used throughout. Please ensure that you are using the correct terms as this will significantly alter the finished result.

If you need a quick reminder of the US/UK terms, there’s a handy blog post here.

When working in the round, you will need to sl st to join the round at the end. Start your next round by slipping across the top of the first cluster, rejoining your yarn when you get to the chain space.

When you are starting in the round, make 2 chains into the first ch sp. This counts as the first leg of the bobble. Complete step 2-4 to finish the bobble.

Information about sizing and yarn requirement.

Sample shown is M.

The colours on the pattern sample M are worked from the bottom up in the following order:

Fondant
Raspberry
Lipstick
Lavender
Denim
Aspen
Meadow
Camel

Note: At the end of every other row there will be an individual double crochet stitch. This makes the edging process easier. Check out the blog for more tips and videos on the Starburst cardigan.

Body measurement chart:

Size	Chest	Sleeves	Back
XS	26-30” (66-76cm )	18” (46cm)	28” (71cm)
S	32-36” (81-91cm)	20” (51cm)	28” (71cm)
M	40-44” (102-107cm)	20” (51cm)	30” (76cm)
L	46-48” (117-122cm	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)
XL	50-52” (127-132cm)	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)

Glossary:

Bobble	See description on page 2
Ch / Ch sp	Chain(s)/ Chain space
Dc	Double crochet (US terms)
Sk	Skip stitches
Sl	Slip stitch

Bobble table

See example of separating in this Youtube link here

Size	Chains	Bobbles	Front	Sleeve	Back
XS	69 ch	22	3	3	10
S	78 ch	25	3	4	11
M	102 ch	33	5	5	11
L	114 ch	36	5	6	14
XL	144	46	7	8	16

Instructions for the cardigan:

Row 1: Chain 69 (78/102/114/144)

(3 ch count as 1st dc) sk 2 ch, bobble in next ch, *ch 2, sk 2, bobble* repeat from * to last ch OR bobble* Make a dc in last ch. 22 (25/33/36/46) bobbles. Ch 3 and turn.

Row 2 and every following row:

*bobble in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat * to final dc. Make 1 dc, ch 3 and turn.

Changing colours every row, repeat row 2 for 20 (22/22/24/24) more rows

Separate for sleeves

Isolate sections of the cardigan. Using the bobble chart, mark the beginning and end of the back stitches and mark the armholes. There should be 4 markers in total.

Front left/Front right

Work only 3 (3/5/5/7) bobble stitches for the next row.

Work 5 (5/6/6/7) more rows. Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn and repeat on other side for front right

Back

Working with the bobble stitches on either side of the 2nd sleeve marker, work 5 (5/6/6/7) rows. Fasten off.

Join shoulder seams using sl st or seam with a darning needle.

Sleeves (work 2):

Joining new yarn, work 18 (20/22/22/24) bobble stitches evenly across armhole. Where there are bobble stitches under the armhole, you can work one bobble st into each ch sp as normal. Where you are working with the sides of stitches, work into the side of the posts/clusters.

To join each round, sl st into the top of the first bobble and sl across to next ch sp. Change colours here and start the next round with 2 ch and 2 more dcs in the bobble.

Work 20 (20/22/24/24) rounds in total. Fasten off.

Edges (including collar and front edges)

Row 1: Starting at bottom left corner, insert hook into the ch sp and chain 3. 2 dc in the side of every stitch post and 2 dc in every ch sp along. Continue all the way around the left front, collar, right front and waistband.

Row 2: Dc in every stitch to end. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Notes: This pattern uses bobble stitch clusters consisting of 3dc stitches joined together. The edging is worked using dc stitches. The cardigan is designed to be oversized. If you feel that the body is too long, please feel free to start your underarm marking 1 or 2 rows before the instructions state.

Love your project?

Need to brush up on your crochet skills? Why not have a look at the other resources on the blog.

June 11, 2025

Free crochet stitch guide for beginners.
Want to learn to crochet but you’re not sure what the stitches are? Or maybe you’re not sure what stitch you should start with as a beginner. In this post I’ve shared my crochet stitch guide for absolute beginners. My students swear by this pattern. I hope it’ll be handy for you, too!
If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.
Think of this crochet stitch guide as the official quick reference companion for learning crochet. This works as a way to remind yourself of what stitches mean when you are working on a project. I also include the UK variations for the terms.
Inside:
- Single crochet
- Half double crochet
- Double crochet
- Triple crochet
- V stitch crochet
- Shell stitch crochet.
In this guide with clear colour photographs I explain how many chains you need as well as how to do each stitch. Please make sure you have a look at the photographs, or visit my youtube channel for more help.

Crochet stitches for beginners
The basics
This is an introductory guide to the main basic crochet stitches. If you’d like to see demonstrations, please subscribe to my youtube channel by clicking here.
Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)
Abbreviations: sc (US) dc (UK).
Single crochet is the smallest stitch you can do in crochet. It is commonly used in dishcloths, face scrubbies and amigurumi. The dense, short stitches are great for toys as the stuffing is less likely to leak out! Single crochet also works great for baskets as it provides a dense, sturdy fabric.
Directions:
Insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 1.
Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)
Abbreviations: Hdc (US) Htr (UK)
I really like half double crochet as it starts off as a double but ends as a single. It’s a tall enough stitch without all of the work.
Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through the 3 loops on the hook. Do this in every chain.
When you get to the end, chain 2 and turn.
Double crochet (UK Treble)
Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)
Abbreviations: Tr (US) (Dtr UK)
This is a very tall stitch (but not the tallest!) requiring a turning chain of 4 stitches.
Yarn over twice, insert hook. Yarn over and pull through a loop. *Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat * 2 more times.
When turning, always chain 4.
V stitch
Abbreviations: V st
V stitch is a crochet lace stitch. We create the vs by using double crochet and chains.
V stitch is made by working a multiple of 3 chains plus an additional 4 chains.
First row (after chaining)
Make a dc (UK Tr) into the 5th chain from hook. Chain 1 and make a second Dc (UK tr) into the same stitch. Skip the next 2 chains and and make another V into the next stitch. Continue until you only have 2 chains left. Skip one chain and make a single dc into the next chain.
Second row: Make a 3 ch turning chain, make a V into the centre of the last V you made. This is called the chain space. Chain 1 and do the same again in every V across. When you get to the end, make a single Dc (UK Tr) into the last chain. Repeat for every following row.
Shell stitch
Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.
Row 1: Single crochet (UK double) into the 2nd chain from the hook, skip the next 2 chains, and dc (UK tr) 5 times into the next chain, sk next 2 chains, sc into the next chain, sk 2, dc 5 times into the next chain. Repeat to end, where you should end with one sc.
Row 2: Chain 3 and turn. Dc 2 more times into the last sc of the previous row. *Make a sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell, then make 5 dc into the next sc*. Repeat * to end and make 3dc into the last sc.
Row 3: Ch 1 and sc into the first dc of the previous row, *dc 5 times into the next sc, sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell* repeat to end, ending with a sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 to end.
This guide is free. If you would like to support the website, please consider leaving a tip or share this post!
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June 11, 2025
How to stop your crochet from getting smaller.
Are you trying to crochet a flat piece and finding yourself baffled as to why it seems to be getting narrower? Maybe I can help. Here are 4 common reasons why your crochet seems to be getting smaller. Let me help you stop that from happening.
1. After the first row, check your stitch count.
This may seem like a really obvious one but you’d be amazed at how one missed stitch can go under the radar until it’s 30 rows too late. If you’re practising crochet for the first time, stick with 10-20 stitches at a time. This will help you to study your stitches without the exhaustion of having to rip back an entire jumper that is 4 inches too narrow. Trust me, these little stumbles in the early days will earn you all the skills.
2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.
You’d be surprised to hear how often this happens; people forget to make a turning chain. The reason the turning chain exists is to make the transition into the next row as smooth as possible. Not making a turning chain could result in a stitch at the end that is too short and causes the piece to slope inwards. You will then probably miss it when you’re working back across the row, leading to fewer overall stitches.
If you’d like a handy guide on turning chains and stitches at your fingertips, you should download my crochet stitch guide for beginners.
3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.
Is it the 3rd chain from the hook, the 4th chain or the 5th chain? The chain on the hook does not count. You have to count the chains from the hook. Inserting the first stitch too early will result in a wider piece whereas inserting too late can result in a narrower piece. In this picture, I have made a ch2 for a half double crochet and should be inserting my hook into the 4th chain from the hook. Can you see what I mean by “4th chain from the hook”?
4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.
Whether you are making a turning chain at the beginning of the row or just coming to the end of a row- the turning chains count! If you do not make a stitch into the top of the previous turning chain, you will not get an even amount of stitches and your crochet will start to shrink.
Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.
This is a bit fiddly but when you are learning, it will save you so much hassle. Just take it off after you’ve made your last stitch and insert it into the top of the next turning chain. Hopefully you’ll get so sick of seeing it that you will learn to never miss the turning chain again.

June 11, 2025
How to block granny squares. Step by step crochet tutorial for beginners.
Have you made your granny squares, but you’re not sure how to block granny squares? In this post, I will show you how I block mine.
You’ve seen them around: absolutely beautiful crochet blankets that lay flat effortlessly. If you’re using a natural fibre to crochet granny squares such as wool or cotton, you will benefit from learning how to block granny squares. if you’re using synthetic fibres, you can still get fantastic results!
If you’ve read my other blog post on how to crochet a granny square, you’ll be ready to try joining granny squares, and last of all: blocking granny squares!
Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.
What is blocking?
Blocking is a method that makers use to shape or flatten their knit or crochet projects. If you use natural fibres such as wool, you may benefit from blocking your pieces. The process of blocking will help to flatten any curling edges and balance any uneven stitches. It doesn’t have to be expensive or particularly risky.
Blocking is not compulsory but it can help especially if you are selling the finished work or giving it as a gift. It opens out lace or openwork and relaxes the fabric. It’s also an opportunity to shape things to the desired dimensions.
Why block granny squares?
You would iron your garments if you’d sewn them to give a professional finish, so why not block your knitting and crochet projects? It’s the same principle.
When it comes to squares, they can be blocked in several ways but I’m going to show you how to block them with water and a foam mat.
As part of the #StashBlanketCAL I am making a granny square blanket out of the aran yarn that I have in my stash. I’m really enjoying mixing the colours and making what I can with what I have. The yarn I am using is made from Shetland wool so I am blocking it to help flatten the pieces. This will give me a flatter blanket overall.
In this instance, blocking will help me to match up my granny squares and join them easily, as I will be able to see where edges match up.
I’ll show you how I block granny squares.
Step 1: Soak the square
You can buy a suitable soak wash for your knitting and crochet but I just use warm water.
I haven’t noticed any difference in using a soak. I barely smell the fragrance or feel a difference in the fabric. I could just be doing it wrong but I’ve mostly always used warm water and save the wool wash bottle for hand washing.
Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.
When pulling your pieces out of the water, don’t ever wring them. Always squeeze.
Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.
I’m just using a hand towel because it’s just a granny square. For a jumper, I’d use something bigger. Squeeze as much water out of the square as you can with the towel and finish off with rolling it up. Either squeeze the towel or lean on it. I use my body weight to flatten the towel burrito.
Step 4: Roll it up
This just adds a bit more pressure. It’s like wrapping your wet hair up in a towel after having a shower. It takes another layer of moisture off the piece. Do this nice and tight.
Step 5: Squeeze the burrito.
You can do this by squeezing it in your hands or kneel on it. I use my body weight if it is a larger project.
Step 6: Pin it in place.
I use foam play mats because the pin goes in with minimal resistance whole still holding the yarn for me. I also like how portable the mats are. Sometimes I need to keep my things blocking out of reach of tiny hands. I use T pins. They’re a special shape of pin and the T stops the work from slipping off. Pin to your desired dimensions. I started with the corners first.
Now what?
You just have to wait until it is dry now. Give it 48 hours or so depending on temperature and humidity. While you’re waiting, you can make some more squares!
I hope this was helpful. Do you like to use any other blocking methods? Let me know in the comments!
Hanna

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June 11, 2025

Free Beginner Granny Square Pattern For Beginners

Below you’ll find my free granny square crochet pattern just for beginners. If you’ve been wanting to make your own crochet squares for a while but don’t know where to start, this is a great place! I wrote this pattern to accompany a youtube tutorial which you can find below. If you’d prefer the written instructions, it’s all here.

If you’d rather have the ad-free version, you can download the PDF of this pattern here.

Learn to make a granny square with this easy, step by step tutorial. Before you know it, you’ll be whipping up granny squares everywhere, any time!

Basic granny square pattern

These are instructions for a basic beginner granny square. There is a free tutorial attached to this pattern here. https://youtu.be/u0FFaFjJj7M

Glossary

Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull through the 1 loop on the hook.
Ch sp	The space of gap that has been created by stitches.
Dc	Double crochet stitch: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sl	Slip stitch. Insert hook into chain or chain space, yarn over and pull through.

To work the granny square, we start with a chain, join it to make a ring and work our first dc cluster into the centre of that ring. After that, we chain and work dcs into every chain space. Once you get the hang of it, the granny square is versatile and can come in any combination of stitches!

Materials required to make a granny square:

4mm (US 6) crochet hook.
A small amount of DK weight yarn. 30g/1oz
Scissors

Instructions:

Start by making a slipknot.

Round 1.

Ch 4. Sl in 4th ch from hook.
Ch 2 and dc 2 times into the centre of the ring. 1st cluster formed.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into centre of the ring. (6 dcs in total.)
Repeat last step 2 more times. (12 dcs in total)
Sl st into top of first dc chain to join the round.

Round 2:

Sl across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. First corner done.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into next ch sp. Ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 2 twice more.
Sl with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 3

Sl across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp.
Ch 2 and work 3 dcs into next ch sp to corner ch sp
Ch 2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 1 and 2 to end.
Sl with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 4 and 5:

Work instructions for round 3, 2 more times until you have 5 completed rounds in total. There will be more chain spaces to work between corners as the square gets bigger.

To finish your square, just sl and fasten off.

This is a free pattern for beginners. If you loved this, please consider leaving a tip or sharing on social media!

Free Granny Square Crochet Pattern For Beginners. Image shows a granny square with a crochet hook resting on it.

June 11, 2025

Free crochet shower puff pattern.
Below is my free crochet shower puff pattern which is suitable for beginners as well as crocheters who are looking for a quick, satisfying stash-busting project! This pattern uses a small amount of cotton yarn and is lots of fun.
I first came up with the idea of a crochet shower puff when I was looking at crochet for the home. The added bonus of this project is that it is eco friendly if you use a sustainable yarn.
Plastic-free crochet shower puff pattern
Crochet yourself a washable cotton shower puff or give to friends and family as a last minute gift. This puff uses less than 100g of DK weight cotton- a handy stashbuster!
Instructions are written in US terms throughout.
The puff is made by establishing the ring of the core first, which won’t be seen once the puff is complete. You will then create the handle, which involves making 40 chains and connecting it to the centre ring with a slip stitch. The piece is then worked in the round using single crochet and double crochet.
Instructions are for a crochet bath puff. Please note that whether you choose the recommended yarn or not, for best result, please use cotton dk yarn, as this can be washed at 60 degrees to maintain hygiene.
To celebrate your move to plastic free bathing, I have teamed up with pretty-savage.co.uk to offer an exclusive discount code. Just use code PUFF10 to claim 10% off your order of plastic free soaps, soaks and much more.
Materials needed:
- 60g of cotton DK yarn. I used 1 ball of Cygnet 100% cotton DK (200m/ per 100g ball) in shade Pepper.
- 1 3.75mm crochet hook.
- 1 darning needle.
Instructions:
Core:
Ch 5. Sl st into 1st ch to close.
Handle:
Ch 40. Sl into ring to close loop.
Body:
Round 1: Ch 1, 25sc into ring. Sl into 1st dc to join the round.
Round 2-4: Ch 2, 3dc in every dc around. Join with a sl st in first dc to close round.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Glossary
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double crochet
Sc: Single crochet
Sl: Slip stitch.
Thank you for visiting Germander Cottage Crafts. This pattern is free, but if you would like to purchase the PDF or leave a gratuity the buttons are below!

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June 11, 2025

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Glossary:

Yarn used to create the Betwixt crochet cowl

The idea behind the design of this cowl pattern

Betwixt Cowl: Crochet Pattern

Betwixt cowl

Gauge:

Materials:

Measurements:

Special stitch(es):

Helpful videos:

Glossary:

How to make the Betwixt crochet neck warmer:

Thank you for visiting my blog! Enjoy your pattern.

Prefer to get your crochet patterns as a downloadable PDF?

This quick cardigan is worked in 5 pieces so it’s the perfect small project to master your emerging crochet skills.

Why is the Lovechunk baby sweater good for crochet beginners?

About the yarn

The Lovechunk baby sweater modelled on my baby in September 2023, when she was 3 months old. She is wearing the 6m size, but she was 10lb when she was born, so always check the baby’s size before starting your project.

Here’s why the Lovechunk baby sweater is an excellent project even if you’re not 100% confident on crochet garments:

What crochet stitch knowledge do I need?

Other crochet stitches and terms that you’ll need to know in order to make this simple baby cardigan.

Gauge

Notes

Size Chart

Glossary

Materials

Instructions: Back

Front panels (Make 2)

Shape neck

Mark button hole

Sleeves (Make 2)

Finishing

Buttonband

Here’s how to make your own t shirt yarn from fabrics you may want to recycle instead of throwing out.

How to wind it into a ball

Can I use the rest of the t shirt?

Can I cut up other fabric?

Want to crochet or knit something cute for summer but you’re not sure which yarns to work with? In this guide I’ll show you what’s on offer when it comes to cotton.

Plant based yarns

Types of cotton yarns on the market:

Here are my top choices for cotton yarns.

Sheepjes Catona 4ply cotton yarn.

Not a fan of 100% cotton yarns? Here are some synthetic yarns that have been blended with cotton, wool or silk.

3. Last but not least is the Sheepjes whirl cake in 4ply.

Starburst Cardigan: a chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

Instructions to make this simple crochet cardigan pattern:

Things to be aware of before you make the Starburst crochet cardigan.

Information about sizing and yarn requirement.

Instructions for the cardigan:

Separate for sleeves

Isolate sections of the cardigan. Using the bobble chart, mark the beginning and end of the back stitches and mark the armholes. There should be 4 markers in total.

Front left/Front right

Back

Sleeves (work 2):

Edges (including collar and front edges)

If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.

Crochet stitches for beginners

Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)

Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)

Double crochet (UK Treble)

Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)

When turning, always chain 4.

V stitch

Abbreviations: V st

Shell stitch

Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.

Are you trying to crochet a flat piece and finding yourself baffled as to why it seems to be getting narrower? Maybe I can help. Here are 4 common reasons why your crochet seems to be getting smaller. Let me help you stop that from happening.

1. After the first row, check your stitch count.

2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.

3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.

4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.

Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.

Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.

What is blocking?

Why block granny squares?

I’ll show you how I block granny squares.

Step 1: Soak the square

Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.

Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.

Instructions:
Back