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Starburst Cardigan. Chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

This is a free crochet pattern for a chunky, multi-coloured cardigan. You can either use this free version with ads, or the pattern is also available here with no ads.

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Starburst Cardigan: a chunky crochet cardigan pattern.

Named after the much loved 90s fruit chews, this cardigan promises a burst of colour and a quick turnaround. The funnel sleeves give it a retro feel and the bobbles scream retro charm.

Wear it as an oversized addition to your wardrobe all year round!

Materials needed:

Stylecraft special Chunky. 100% Acrylic; 144 metres / 157 yards per 100g / 3.5oz 1 (1,1*,2,2) balls of each colour. *Size M needs 2 balls of Denim in total for the border, but 1 of every other colour.

Raspberry (1023)
Meadow (1065)
Lavender (1188)
Fondant (1241)
Lipstick (1246)
Denim (1302)
Camel (1420)
Aspen (1422)
6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
4 removable stitch markers.
Darning needle for weaving in ends.

Gauge:

3 bobble stitches and 3 ch spaces/ 4 rows to 10cm/4” using a 6mm / USJ/10 crochet hook and Stylecraft Special Chunky.

Bobble stitch-

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over and pull through, Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 2 loops on hook.

Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave remaining 3 loops on hook.

Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook.

When worked flat: each end of the row will have an individual, double crochet stitch. Ch3 at the end of every row, yarn over and work into the chain spaces in the next row.

US terms are used throughout. Please ensure that you are using the correct terms as this will significantly alter the finished result.

When working in the round, you will need to sl st to join the round at the end. Start your next round by slipping across the top of the first cluster, rejoining your yarn when you get to the chain space.

When you are starting in the round, make 2 chains into the first ch sp. This counts as the first leg of the bobble. Complete step 2-4 to finish the bobble.

Sample shown is M.

The colours on the pattern sample M are worked from the bottom up in the following order:

Fondant
Raspberry
Lipstick
Lavender
Denim
Aspen
Meadow
Camel

Note: At the end of every other row there will be an individual double crochet stitch. This makes the edging process easier. Check out the blog for more tips and videos on the Starburst cardigan.

Body measurement chart:

Size	Chest	Sleeves	Back
XS	26-30” (66-76cm )	18” (46cm)	28” (71cm)
S	32-36” (81-91cm)	20” (51cm)	28” (71cm)
M	40-44” (102-107cm)	20” (51cm)	30” (76cm)
L	46-48” (117-122cm	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)
XL	50-52” (127-132cm)	22” (56cm)	32” (81cm)

Glossary:

Bobble	See description on page 2
Ch / Ch sp	Chain(s)/ Chain space
Dc	Double crochet (US terms)
Sk	Skip stitches
Sl	Slip stitch

Bobble table

See example of separating in this Youtube link here

Size	Chains	Bobbles	Front	Sleeve	Back
XS	69 ch	22	3	3	10
S	78 ch	25	3	4	11
M	102 ch	33	5	5	11
L	114 ch	36	5	6	14
XL	144	46	7	8	16

Instructions:

Row 1: Chain 69 (78/102/114/144)

(3 ch count as 1st dc) sk 2 ch, bobble in next ch, *ch 2, sk 2, bobble* repeat from * to last ch OR bobble* Make a dc in last ch. 22 (25/33/36/46) bobbles. Ch 3 and turn.

Row 2 and every following row:

*bobble in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat * to final dc. Make 1 dc, ch 3 and turn.

Changing colours every row, repeat row 2 for 20 (22/22/24/24) more rows

Separate for sleeves

Isolate sections of the cardigan. Using the bobble chart, mark the beginning and end of the back stitches and mark the armholes. There should be 4 markers in total.

Front left/Front right

Work only 3 (3/5/5/7) bobble stitches for the next row.

Work 5 (5/6/6/7) more rows. Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn and repeat on other side for front right

Back

Working with the bobble stitches on either side of the 2nd sleeve marker, work 5 (5/6/6/7) rows. Fasten off.

Join shoulder seams using sl st or seam with a darning needle.

Sleeves (work 2):

Joining new yarn, work 18 (20/22/22/24) bobble stitches evenly across armhole. Where there are bobble stitches under the armhole, you can work one bobble st into each ch sp as normal. Where you are working with the sides of stitches, work into the side of the posts/clusters.

To join each round, sl st into the top of the first bobble and sl across to next ch sp. Change colours here and start the next round with 2 ch and 2 more dcs in the bobble.

Work 20 (20/22/24/24) rounds in total. Fasten off.

Edges (including collar and front edges)

Row 1: Starting at bottom left corner, insert hook into the ch sp and chain 3. 2 dc in the side of every stitch post and 2 dc in every ch sp along. Continue all the way around the left front, collar, right front and waistband.

Row 2: Dc in every stitch to end. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Notes: This pattern uses bobble stitch clusters consisting of 3dc stitches joined together. The edging is worked using dc stitches. The cardigan is designed to be oversized. If you feel that the body is too long, please feel free to start your underarm marking 1 or 2 rows before the instructions state.

Love your project?

chunky crochet cardigan pattern. Ladies crochet patterns. Free crochet sweater patterns.

Need to brush up on your crochet skills? Why not have a look at the other resources on the blog.

June 11, 2025

Free crochet stitch guide for beginners.
Want to learn to crochet but you’re not sure what the stitches are? Or maybe you’re not sure what stitch you should start with as a beginner. In this post I’ve shared my crochet stitch guide for absolute beginners. My students swear by this pattern. I hope it’ll be handy for you, too!
If you’d prefer a handy PDF of this guide, it is available here.
Think of this crochet stitch guide as the official quick reference companion for learning crochet. This works as a way to remind yourself of what stitches mean when you are working on a project. I also include the UK variations for the terms.
Inside:
- Single crochet
- Half double crochet
- Double crochet
- Triple crochet
- V stitch crochet
- Shell stitch crochet.
In this guide with clear colour photographs I explain how many chains you need as well as how to do each stitch. Please make sure you have a look at the photographs, or visit my youtube channel for more help.

Crochet stitches for beginners
The basics
This is an introductory guide to the main basic crochet stitches. If you’d like to see demonstrations, please subscribe to my youtube channel by clicking here.
Single crochet (UK Double Crochet)
Abbreviations: sc (US) dc (UK).
Single crochet is the smallest stitch you can do in crochet. It is commonly used in dishcloths, face scrubbies and amigurumi. The dense, short stitches are great for toys as the stuffing is less likely to leak out! Single crochet also works great for baskets as it provides a dense, sturdy fabric.
Directions:
Insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 1.
Half double crochet (UK Half Treble)
Abbreviations: Hdc (US) Htr (UK)
I really like half double crochet as it starts off as a double but ends as a single. It’s a tall enough stitch without all of the work.
Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through the 3 loops on the hook. Do this in every chain.
When you get to the end, chain 2 and turn.
Double crochet (UK Treble)
Abbreviations: Dc (US) Tr (UK)
The Dc is one of the most common crochet stitches you will come across. It’s speedy and tall. Your work will grow quickly.
Chain 3 and turn. Yarn over hook, insert hook, yarn over and pull through a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
When making a turning chain, always chain 3.
Triple crochet (Double Treble (UK)
Abbreviations: Tr (US) (Dtr UK)
This is a very tall stitch (but not the tallest!) requiring a turning chain of 4 stitches.
Yarn over twice, insert hook. Yarn over and pull through a loop. *Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat * 2 more times.
When turning, always chain 4.
V stitch
Abbreviations: V st
V stitch is a crochet lace stitch. We create the vs by using double crochet and chains.
V stitch is made by working a multiple of 3 chains plus an additional 4 chains.
First row (after chaining)
Make a dc (UK Tr) into the 5th chain from hook. Chain 1 and make a second Dc (UK tr) into the same stitch. Skip the next 2 chains and and make another V into the next stitch. Continue until you only have 2 chains left. Skip one chain and make a single dc into the next chain.
Second row: Make a 3 ch turning chain, make a V into the centre of the last V you made. This is called the chain space. Chain 1 and do the same again in every V across. When you get to the end, make a single Dc (UK Tr) into the last chain. Repeat for every following row.
Shell stitch
Shell stitch chains are always a multiple of 6 plus 2 additional chains.
Row 1: Single crochet (UK double) into the 2nd chain from the hook, skip the next 2 chains, and dc (UK tr) 5 times into the next chain, sk next 2 chains, sc into the next chain, sk 2, dc 5 times into the next chain. Repeat to end, where you should end with one sc.
Row 2: Chain 3 and turn. Dc 2 more times into the last sc of the previous row. *Make a sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell, then make 5 dc into the next sc*. Repeat * to end and make 3dc into the last sc.
Row 3: Ch 1 and sc into the first dc of the previous row, *dc 5 times into the next sc, sc into the top centre stitch of the next shell* repeat to end, ending with a sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 to end.
This guide is free. If you would like to support the website, please consider leaving a tip or share this post!
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June 11, 2025
How to stop your crochet from getting smaller.
Are you trying to crochet a flat piece and finding yourself baffled as to why it seems to be getting narrower? Maybe I can help. Here are 4 common reasons why your crochet seems to be getting smaller. Let me help you stop that from happening.
1. After the first row, check your stitch count.
This may seem like a really obvious one but you’d be amazed at how one missed stitch can go under the radar until it’s 30 rows too late. If you’re practising crochet for the first time, stick with 10-20 stitches at a time. This will help you to study your stitches without the exhaustion of having to rip back an entire jumper that is 4 inches too narrow. Trust me, these little stumbles in the early days will earn you all the skills.
2. Don’t forget to make a turning chain when you finish a row.
You’d be surprised to hear how often this happens; people forget to make a turning chain. The reason the turning chain exists is to make the transition into the next row as smooth as possible. Not making a turning chain could result in a stitch at the end that is too short and causes the piece to slope inwards. You will then probably miss it when you’re working back across the row, leading to fewer overall stitches.
If you’d like a handy guide on turning chains and stitches at your fingertips, you should download my crochet stitch guide for beginners.
3. Make sure that you know which chain is the one you’re supposed to be working with on the next row.
Is it the 3rd chain from the hook, the 4th chain or the 5th chain? The chain on the hook does not count. You have to count the chains from the hook. Inserting the first stitch too early will result in a wider piece whereas inserting too late can result in a narrower piece. In this picture, I have made a ch2 for a half double crochet and should be inserting my hook into the 4th chain from the hook. Can you see what I mean by “4th chain from the hook”?
4. Remember that the turning chain counts as a stitch.
Whether you are making a turning chain at the beginning of the row or just coming to the end of a row- the turning chains count! If you do not make a stitch into the top of the previous turning chain, you will not get an even amount of stitches and your crochet will start to shrink.
Tip: Use a removable stitch marker to mark the top of the turning chain.
This is a bit fiddly but when you are learning, it will save you so much hassle. Just take it off after you’ve made your last stitch and insert it into the top of the next turning chain. Hopefully you’ll get so sick of seeing it that you will learn to never miss the turning chain again.

June 11, 2025
How to block granny squares. Step by step crochet tutorial for beginners.
Have you made your granny squares, but you’re not sure how to block granny squares? In this post, I will show you how I block mine.
You’ve seen them around: absolutely beautiful crochet blankets that lay flat effortlessly. If you’re using a natural fibre to crochet granny squares such as wool or cotton, you will benefit from learning how to block granny squares. if you’re using synthetic fibres, you can still get fantastic results!
If you’ve read my other blog post on how to crochet a granny square, you’ll be ready to try joining granny squares, and last of all: blocking granny squares!
Want to make a granny square blanket but not sure how to keep it flat? Here’s your full guide to blocking squares.
What is blocking?
Blocking is a method that makers use to shape or flatten their knit or crochet projects. If you use natural fibres such as wool, you may benefit from blocking your pieces. The process of blocking will help to flatten any curling edges and balance any uneven stitches. It doesn’t have to be expensive or particularly risky.
Blocking is not compulsory but it can help especially if you are selling the finished work or giving it as a gift. It opens out lace or openwork and relaxes the fabric. It’s also an opportunity to shape things to the desired dimensions.
Why block granny squares?
You would iron your garments if you’d sewn them to give a professional finish, so why not block your knitting and crochet projects? It’s the same principle.
When it comes to squares, they can be blocked in several ways but I’m going to show you how to block them with water and a foam mat.
As part of the #StashBlanketCAL I am making a granny square blanket out of the aran yarn that I have in my stash. I’m really enjoying mixing the colours and making what I can with what I have. The yarn I am using is made from Shetland wool so I am blocking it to help flatten the pieces. This will give me a flatter blanket overall.
In this instance, blocking will help me to match up my granny squares and join them easily, as I will be able to see where edges match up.
I’ll show you how I block granny squares.
Step 1: Soak the square
You can buy a suitable soak wash for your knitting and crochet but I just use warm water.
I haven’t noticed any difference in using a soak. I barely smell the fragrance or feel a difference in the fabric. I could just be doing it wrong but I’ve mostly always used warm water and save the wool wash bottle for hand washing.
Step 2: Squeeze the square to get rid of excess water.
When pulling your pieces out of the water, don’t ever wring them. Always squeeze.
Step 3: Lay the piece on a towel.
I’m just using a hand towel because it’s just a granny square. For a jumper, I’d use something bigger. Squeeze as much water out of the square as you can with the towel and finish off with rolling it up. Either squeeze the towel or lean on it. I use my body weight to flatten the towel burrito.
Step 4: Roll it up
This just adds a bit more pressure. It’s like wrapping your wet hair up in a towel after having a shower. It takes another layer of moisture off the piece. Do this nice and tight.
Step 5: Squeeze the burrito.
You can do this by squeezing it in your hands or kneel on it. I use my body weight if it is a larger project.
Step 6: Pin it in place.
I use foam play mats because the pin goes in with minimal resistance whole still holding the yarn for me. I also like how portable the mats are. Sometimes I need to keep my things blocking out of reach of tiny hands. I use T pins. They’re a special shape of pin and the T stops the work from slipping off. Pin to your desired dimensions. I started with the corners first.
Now what?
You just have to wait until it is dry now. Give it 48 hours or so depending on temperature and humidity. While you’re waiting, you can make some more squares!
I hope this was helpful. Do you like to use any other blocking methods? Let me know in the comments!
Hanna

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June 11, 2025

Free Beginner Granny Square Pattern For Beginners

Below you’ll find my free granny square crochet pattern just for beginners. If you’ve been wanting to make your own crochet squares for a while but don’t know where to start, this is a great place! I wrote this pattern to accompany a youtube tutorial which you can find below. If you’d prefer the written instructions, it’s all here.

If you’d rather have the ad-free version, you can download the PDF of this pattern here.

Learn to make a granny square with this easy, step by step tutorial. Before you know it, you’ll be whipping up granny squares everywhere, any time!

Basic granny square pattern

These are instructions for a basic beginner granny square. There is a free tutorial attached to this pattern here. https://youtu.be/u0FFaFjJj7M

Glossary

Ch	Chain. Yarn over and pull through the 1 loop on the hook.
Ch sp	The space of gap that has been created by stitches.
Dc	Double crochet stitch: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook.
Sl	Slip stitch. Insert hook into chain or chain space, yarn over and pull through.

To work the granny square, we start with a chain, join it to make a ring and work our first dc cluster into the centre of that ring. After that, we chain and work dcs into every chain space. Once you get the hang of it, the granny square is versatile and can come in any combination of stitches!

Materials required to make a granny square:

4mm (US 6) crochet hook.
A small amount of DK weight yarn. 30g/1oz
Scissors

Instructions:

Start by making a slipknot.

Round 1.

Ch 4. Sl in 4th ch from hook.
Ch 2 and dc 2 times into the centre of the ring. 1st cluster formed.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into centre of the ring. (6 dcs in total.)
Repeat last step 2 more times. (12 dcs in total)
Sl st into top of first dc chain to join the round.

Round 2:

Sl across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp. First corner done.
Chain 2 and dc 3 times into next ch sp. Ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 2 twice more.
Sl with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 3

Sl across top of first 3 dcs to get to the 1st corner ch sp. Ch 3 and dc twice into ch sp. (3 dcs in total) ch 1 and dc 3 times into same ch sp.
Ch 2 and work 3 dcs into next ch sp to corner ch sp
Ch 2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch 1 and make 3 more dcs into same ch sp.
Repeat step 1 and 2 to end.
Sl with top of 1st dc to close the round.

Round 4 and 5:

Work instructions for round 3, 2 more times until you have 5 completed rounds in total. There will be more chain spaces to work between corners as the square gets bigger.

To finish your square, just sl and fasten off.

This is a free pattern for beginners. If you loved this, please consider leaving a tip or sharing on social media!

Free Granny Square Crochet Pattern For Beginners. Image shows a granny square with a crochet hook resting on it.

June 11, 2025

Free crochet shower puff pattern.
Below is my free crochet shower puff pattern which is suitable for beginners as well as crocheters who are looking for a quick, satisfying stash-busting project! This pattern uses a small amount of cotton yarn and is lots of fun.
I first came up with the idea of a crochet shower puff when I was looking at crochet for the home. The added bonus of this project is that it is eco friendly if you use a sustainable yarn.
Plastic-free crochet shower puff pattern
Crochet yourself a washable cotton shower puff or give to friends and family as a last minute gift. This puff uses less than 100g of DK weight cotton- a handy stashbuster!
Instructions are written in US terms throughout.
The puff is made by establishing the ring of the core first, which won’t be seen once the puff is complete. You will then create the handle, which involves making 40 chains and connecting it to the centre ring with a slip stitch. The piece is then worked in the round using single crochet and double crochet.
Instructions are for a crochet bath puff. Please note that whether you choose the recommended yarn or not, for best result, please use cotton dk yarn, as this can be washed at 60 degrees to maintain hygiene.
To celebrate your move to plastic free bathing, I have teamed up with pretty-savage.co.uk to offer an exclusive discount code. Just use code PUFF10 to claim 10% off your order of plastic free soaps, soaks and much more.
Materials needed:
- 60g of cotton DK yarn. I used 1 ball of Cygnet 100% cotton DK (200m/ per 100g ball) in shade Pepper.
- 1 3.75mm crochet hook.
- 1 darning needle.
Instructions:
Core:
Ch 5. Sl st into 1st ch to close.
Handle:
Ch 40. Sl into ring to close loop.
Body:
Round 1: Ch 1, 25sc into ring. Sl into 1st dc to join the round.
Round 2-4: Ch 2, 3dc in every dc around. Join with a sl st in first dc to close round.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Glossary
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double crochet
Sc: Single crochet
Sl: Slip stitch.
Thank you for visiting Germander Cottage Crafts. This pattern is free, but if you would like to purchase the PDF or leave a gratuity the buttons are below!

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June 11, 2025
How to get started with crochet: A beginner’s guide.
Here’s some beginner crochet patterns and guides to help you get started with crochet.
Where do you start when you want to learn to crochet but you’re a beginner? Here!
Something that comes up often is the question “where do I start with crochet?” and that depends on you, the individual. Some beginners are as bold as brass and practically say “hit me with it” , determined to conquer any challenge that arises, whereas others want small steps, simplicity and progress that they can record slowly and observantly.
What type of crochet beginner are you?
It’s easy enough to work out based on what your appetite is and what you are working towards. If you can scroll through a few Youtube videos and think “I’ve got the hang of this” then good for you! The amount of content out there aimed at crochet beginners is pretty extreme. It can be very hard to navigate across really busy waters of the internet. Some of us can navigate without any particular help, while others need someone to steer the ship at first.
If you want slow and steady, or find that you switch off easily, maybe written instructions are better suited for you. You can read them quietly, in your own time without the distraction of adverts, different accents or unfamiliar terms. You can then look at videos to support what you have already learned.
I’m going to show you a range of beginner friendly patterns and guides that will help you to start your crochet journey.
Starting small
Learning to crochet is a journey that will take weeks, months and years to get the hang of. Please don’t let that put you off. Here are some small but satisfying projects for a crochet beginner.
Crochet rainbow keyring kit.
In this kit by One Creative Cat, you get the yarn and the pattern together. This takes the headache out of knowing which yarn to choose. You will need to provide your own 4mm crochet hook and a pair of scissors but other than that, this is a satisfying beginner project for you to try! You can find more about the kit here.
Crochet pot holder beginner pattern
Here’s a pattern that allows you to practice one stitch and make a square shape. It’s a free pattern from Sarah Maker and is really simple, functional and great to practice with. Use some cotton DK yarn as acrylic is not heat proof! Find the pattern here. As you’ll see from the pattern it recommends a cotton yarn. I recommend Cygnet 100% cotton DK which you can find here
The above patterns are perfect for beginners as they have step by step instructions and require only one basic crochet stitch.
What are the basic crochet stitches?
If you have trouble remembering the basic crochet stitches or don’t even know where to start, here’s my guide on the 6 basic stitches to get you started. It’s a downloadable PDF that I wrote to compliment my Youtube tutorials. You can subscribe to the beginners playlist here.
Here’s an example of one of the tutorials. This is the single crochet stitch and is featured in most beginner patterns:

Ready for something bigger? Here are some patterns for the more adventurous beginner.
Below you’ll find some crochet patterns that are great for refreshers as well as beginners. They also have supporting video tutorials provided within the pattern.
Basic granny square beginner pattern
Try this pattern if you want to learn how to read crochet patterns. This is a skill worth investing your time in as it will help you to understand a range of instructions. As you come across abbreviations you will also be able to tackle more challenging patterns! Click here to see the beginner granny square pattern. Every new crocheter should at least try the granny square!
Plastic free shower puff crochet pattern.
This is a great beginner pattern for those who want to learn to crochet in the round. It’s very similar to how you would crochet a granny square. You can either use the free pattern with ads, or there’s an option to download it from Ravelry too!
Beginner friendly yarns
I think as a beginner you can’t go wrong with DK yarn or Worsted weight/Aran yarn and a 4 or 5mm hook. This is what you’ll find at most craft classes or crochet workshops. All of the above patterns ask for yarn and hooks within this range.
Remember about fibre types and purposes though and please, please, please don’t make oven gloves, pot holders or tea towels out of acrylic as this is not heat proof. It will melt into the user’s hands. Cotton is perfect for functional items such as the aforementioned but also for accessories such as bags and wash cloths. Save wool and acrylic for cowls, scarves, garments and toys.

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June 11, 2025
What is a chain space in crochet? Here’s how to crochet between the stitches.
If you’ve wondered what a chain space is, look no further. Find out what the ch sp is in crochet patterns. This post will help you understand this technique better and apply it to your own crochet. This is a beginner crochet tutorial for people who are new to reading crochet patterns, or want to try more elaborate crochet patterns such as lace and filet crochet.
You can also use this information to help you with your granny squares.
If you’re new to crochet, you may have come across ‘chain space’, often mentioned in a pattern as ch sp. You may have thought ‘what does that mean?’ In this post, I’m going to show you what a crochet chain space is:
🧶Exactly what a chain space is.
🧶Where you will find one in your crochet pattern.
🧶Exactly where you’re supposed to put your crochet hook.
What is a chain space (ch sp) in crochet? How do we know where the pattern wants us to insert our hook?
A chain space is made when you skip a stitch or several stitches. You’ll see a lot of chain spaces used in granny squares or lacy crochet projects.
It can be really intimidating to come across this when you’re starting out, but it’s easier than it seems on paper! In crochet patterns, ch sp is used meaning one space. If you are not familiar with any of the stitches mentioned in this tutorial, you can find my handy crochet stitch guide by clicking here.
Working into the chain space can be a lot of fun as it means your project is moving quickly. You may feel like you’re just working through air. You’ll be able to make more intricate designs. This method is useful for filet crochet and lace crochet, as it looks like lace, but is half the work!
Should my chain space stitches be different?
No. If you are asked to make a double crochet into the chain space, just make a double crochet. The chain space replaces the individual chain you may have otherwise been working in. See my example of where it goes here:
This is a double crochet stitch being worked into a chain space.
Other examples of where you need to use spaces to make the design:
In this image, you can see that V stitch is constructed by working into the centre of every v ch sp across the row. Once you’ve set up the first row, it’s a breeze!
This is why the v stitch is one of my favourite crochet stitches of all time. With the V stitch, you don’t need to worry about counting chains and stitches because you’re just working into the chain space. Try it, and you’ll see what I mean! Why not have a go at a pattern that features the V stitch? I’ve shared some ideas below:
This is the v stitch pullover. This entire jumper is worked in v stitch. It’s much quicker to whip up than working a dc into every chain, for example.
Using chain spaces also means that projects with finer yarns take less time too. For example, the Titania shawl is a very big shawl but doesn’t take months to make because of the amount of openwork.
The Titania Shawl uses open spaces to create lace!
Chain space and its descriptions in patterns.
In my patterns I always describe the chain space as this:
Ch Sp: Chain space. The gap created between stitches.
This literally means the ‘gap’ that has been made between stitches or chains. Scroll down for a detailed look at where the space is and what you’re supposed to do with it.
If you look at the image above, you’ll see that some chains have been skipped along the bottom row. This has created a chain space for you to work your next cluster of stitches into.
Other ways chain space may appear in patterns:
Ch-3 sp: The number here could change from pattern to pattern but it basically means to work your stitch into each space that has been created by 3 chains. It is just specifying what the space looks like. In this example, it has 3 chains above it. In the pattern pictured above I might say “Ch-2 sp” meaning, insert the hook into the space created by the 2 chains made in the row before. This will also appear if there are other types of stitches or clusters being used in the same row or round.
I hope this article helped!
Thanks for reading. If you’d like to learn more about crochet and crochet patterns, here are some more posts for you to explore.
Now that you know what a chain space is in crochet, why not try some of my patterns?
- V stitch sweater pattern
- Titania Lace Crochet Shawl
- Granny Squares
FAQ
Q. I can’t see the chain spaces easily. Why is this?
A. When you’re using a bulky or novelty yarn, it can be hard to see the gaps in your crochet. You may want to use a thinner yarn while you’re learning.
Something that also happens is that your tension is too tight, and as a result you don’t have enough space between stitches. Move up a hook size and see how that goes.
Q. My v stitches are too floppy. They don’t sit straight in my fabric. What can I do to fix them?
A. You might need to adjust your tension by going down a hook size. Loose tension can lead to really loose, open chains. They might need to be slightly tighter.

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June 11, 2025
How To Join Granny Squares
How to join your granny squares and turn that pile into something that screams “cottage core style”
So you’ve mastered the granny square (amazing!) but now you have mountains of squares and don’t know what’s next. Here I will show you how to join your granny squares (or any other squares) using my two favourite methods. This can be a fun experience as you can use your newly discovered methods to seam crochet garments, knit garments and other accessories.
For the sake of demonstration, I’ve used different coloured squares and a contrasting yarn colour for the seam. This is just so I can show you how to do it clearly. You can use any squares you like. You can also use the tail end yarns from your squares. It saves weaving them in!
2 types of join you could try for your granny squares or knitted squares.
For both methods I am about to show you: identify the corner. That is where you will start. If the corner isn’t aligned, you won’t match the sides. Try using a removable stitch marker such as a bulb pin to hold the corners together. There’s no escape then!
These two methods can be used for both crochet squares and knit squares. They are a pleasant alternative to seaming with a darning needle as you only need a hook. Remember to fasten off and knot the yarn when you’ve finished, otherwise it will come apart.
The Slip Stitch Join Method
This is a method where you hold right sides together and slip stitch across the edges. One side will have a ridge (wrong side) and the other will have an almost invisible join. This is a popular method for those of us who love the right side to be completely flat. It’s a brilliant alternative to blanket mattress stitch as it looks the same without the sewing.
The ridge is pretty but it will be on the wrong side of the work. If you want a ridge on the right side of your work, join wrong sides together.
How to start the slip stitch join
Step 1:
To do the slip stitch join, first lay your pieces right sides together. Match the squares up as best you can. You can use removable stitch markers to help keep the stitches together, if it helps.
If you lay them flat you will see a bottom row of ‘vs’ and a top row of ‘vs’. these are the tops of the stitches, also referred to as chains in some patterns. Here I’m demonstrating with a classic granny square duo.
Step 2:
Slip your hook into the first pair of loops. These consist of the outer loop of the bottom square (pink) and the top square (blue).
Are you left or right handed? Note here that I have started with the right corner of the joined piece. I’m working right to left here because I am demonstrating right handed.
If you are left handed, you would be starting at the opposite corner on the left, working left to right. You will still be working with the same loops in the same order.
Step 3:
Yarn over and pull your hook hook through both of these loops. Make sure they are the outer loops, not the inner loops. If you slip through the inner loops, you’ll see the contrasting yarn on the other side. There’s no point in stressing here as you can just pull it back and try again if you make a mistake.
First slip stitch done!
Repeat this method to the end of the top of these squares. As you work across, you’ll see the slipped stitches making this pretty chain stitch. This will be the wrong side of the work.
When you turn the piece over to see the right side, you should barely be able to see the contrasting yarn.
There is a black contrasting yarn under these stitches. You can barely see it!
How to do the single crochet join:
This join starts out as though it will become a slip stitch join, but before you do the slip, you make a single crochet (UK treble). The other main difference is that the wrong sides are together. The single crochet adds a pretty ridge to the right side. We want people to see it.
Here’s how it’s done:
Work as instructed for step 1-2 of the slip stitch join above but this time, join wrong sides together. When you pull through after the yarn over, only pull through 1 loop.
Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. That’s it. That’s the single crochet join. If your join looks like the seam above, then you’ve missed one of these steps.
As the single crochet join adds a ridge to the right side of the blanket, you may want to use a matching colour or a contrasting colour.
The single crochet join should look obvious. It should be raised.
Single crochet join (pictured).
If you want to see a quick video demonstration of the slip stitch join, head over to my Youtube to see it. Really appreciate the help? Why not like and subscribe?
How to block your granny squares
June 11, 2025
Knitting Needle Sizes: Old And New
Welcome to my knitting for beginners blog series. If you’ve been handed any vintage patterns lately, you may find that the needle sizes do not correspond with the new needle set you’ve just picked up! Below you’ll find a simple chart showing you the old, new and alternative sizes for your knitting needles.
Knitting needle sizes old and new: everything you need to know.
What are old UK sizes?
As you can see from the conversion chart below, the larger the needle, the smaller the size of needle. If you have inherited any Aero knitting needles from an older friend or relative, they might be size 8s or size 10s. Generally speaking, in most 20th century knitting bags, you’d find 10 for the ribbing (3.25mm) and 8 for the body of the DK weight garment. You are more likely to find 9s and 11s in there too, because 4ply used to be the most common yarn weight out there.
What are US needle sizes?
US needle sizes go up in size to correspond with the thickness of the needle, which is logical when looking at it. They start at 0 (2mm) and scale up to 15 (10mm).
Vintage patterns and old UK needles:
If you are working with vintage patterns you will see that they ask for the old UK size needles. You will need to know what the modern equivalent is in today’s needles in order to even work up a swatch!
New needles:
With the metric system being the most used system in the world, knitting patterns now state metric size knitting needles on their materials list. All international manufacturers of knitting needles and crochet hooks use the metric system on their products,
Fun fact: Only three countries in the world have yet to adopt the metric system:
1. United States
2. Liberia.
3. Myanmar.
As for everyone else, there is wide recognition of millimetres when looking at needle sizes. You will still see “4mm/ US 6” or “4mm/UK 8” on some patterns, but broadly speaking, metric is the most used today among knitters.
Here is an ad free knitting needle conversion chart.
UK US Metric (mm)
14 0 2.0
13 1 2.25
12 2 2.75
11 3.0
10 3 3.25
4 3.5
9 5 3.75
8 6 4.0
7 7 4.5
6 8 5.0
5 9 5.5
4 10 6.00
3 10 1/2 6.5
2 7.0
1 7.5
0 11 8.0
00 13 9.0
000 15 10.0
Nowadays, knitting needles come in so many shapes and sizes that this chart will be just the beginning of your needle conversion. Any vintage pattern I have ever used gives instructions for a flat knit piece, but did you know that you can knit straight on circular needles too?
This post is free to read, but you can also save it for later on Pinterest! Save the image below for a future bailout.

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June 11, 2025